NYFW: Custo Barcelona Fall 2024

Forget quiet luxury. Custo Barcelona's Fall 2024 is all about maximalist style. I love Custo Barcelona's bright graphic prints every season. When the weather gets more relaxed and more parties are on the calendar, I love the sparkly texture color-blocked into the silhouettes in this collection. 

Fall 2024 had a mix of easy, relaxed bodies for those still in post-Covid comfort mode. Then, there are a few body-conscious lean dresses to show off the physiques of those who worked out the last few years. 

A few graphic, street art-inspired embellished prints would look great as an elevated pairing with jeans under a jacket. 

My favorite was the sparkly turquoise fringe pieces that lit up the runway. 

Beauty-wise, the models were kept casual and fresh. Why compete with the main show of the clothes?

Bring on the sun!

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NYFW: Custo Barcelona SS24

When I think of SPRING 2024 collections from this past NY Fashion Week, Custo Barcelona's SS24 runway was the first to come to mind. The sunny rays of yellow, sky blue and statement shades from the runway are exactly what I needed on this frigid, snow-filled week. I am looking forward to warmer, brighter days, hopefully in the coming weeks! 

Many of the looks were breezy, sheer and flowing. While I shiver here in the show, I daydream of these Custo Barcelona outfits on the beach boardwalk in warmer times. I always loved this brand's mix of patterns and color. This spring, the design details also include sexy cut-outs, continuing a popular trend from recent seasons. Also, some sparkly embellishments accent daytime looks. While the silhouettes are can be more relaxed, the designer wanted to make sure that casual, athleisure is a thing of Covid past. This label has never been for the wallflower, and that's what makes is so fun. Bring on the sun!

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NYFW: Custo Barcelona Fall 2018

Do you need to see a fashion collection in person to review it properly? Custo Barcelona fall 2018 is a brand that makes the case for yes. This label is one where no amount of fabrics or embellishment is too much for one outfit. Many of the established editors have long since taken the easy way out and written their NYFW recaps from the comfort of their office or laptop, and readers looking for the scoop are getting ripped off as a result.

Looking at photos of Custo Dalmau's fall looks, you don't get the full scope of the work put into each outfit. An edgy cocktail dress might look like an interesting mosaic of patterns from a graphics standpoint. However, a photo can't convey the delicately layered peacock feather eyes, paired with beaded embroidery and how it moved when the model walked. The metallic brocade pieced trim was perfectly cut to curve around the shoulder. In a photo, an editor couldn't possibly distinguish a cheap print from 3D couture.
In fall 2018, there were big coats mixing leather, iridescent, metallic fabrics and embroidery. When urban areas get cold, people generally hunker down in dark, somber outerwear, which is how most designers treat cold weather. I welcome flamboyant fashion statements when everything else around is grey and depressing. Even the accessories are coordinated with the clothing. Shoes are just as embellished, mixing patterns and textures as the clothes. Sunglasses are not subtle either.

This season, the message of the collection is "Yes, this is Me." The bold statements on the runway are to support women who are empowered to make bold statements in real life.

If I took the time to describe every individual look in this show, you would be ready for weeks. If you are looking at every outfit in a slideshow, they might blur after awhile. From a customs standpoint, it is satisfying to know whatever look you choose is your statement piece. Whether you buy a winter coat or slip dress for a night out, you know it will be the most striking piece in the room. 

Looking to shed your wallflower ways? Custo Barcelona fall 2018 is your go-to collection to command the room.

All Photos by Mariana Leung

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Custo Barcelona Spring 2017

Future so bright, you gotta wear shades? Custo Barcelona's Spring 2017 collection was one of the most optimistic runways of the season. Models wore tinted sunglasses in shades of rose and sunrise yellow.

I love looking at individual garments of Custo Barcelona. Each piece is a collage of colors and embellishment techniques combined into one. Metallic sheer jackets could be re-embroidered with sequins and wood. A skirt in crochet could be layered beads, jewels, and tweed. As much as it may look like a jumble, it always works. 

The color palettes have a 1970s vibe of earthy shades mixed with shine and pastels. The key accessories were the tinted sunglasses as mentioned earlier. Handbags were prominent. They were also given the collage effect of contrasted decoration. Your bag wasn't meant to be matched exactly to your outfit, but complement it in tone and texture. 

Wide band sandals were the footwear of choice for both men and women. I appreciate that the flashy aesthetic of Custo Barcelona's Spring 2017 collection is balanced for both genders. I know my male friends who are fashion fans are often disappointed with brands that are afraid to carry through their high fashion concepts for the gents. So often, menswear can look the same from label to label. If a designer is going to go for it, go all the way!

All photos by Mariana Leung

Also on Ms. Fabulous:

Desigual's Snapchat Styling Spring 2017

Bibhu Mohapatra Spring 2017 - Parisian Art

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Custo Barcelona Fall 2015

We all know fringe is one of the biggest trends by far this season. Custo Barcelona's fall 2015 collection played around with what that meant. Instead of the wimpy, stringy fringe every other designer used in their collections, Custo Dalmau and his design team decided to beef it up a little.

Dalmau envisioned the wide heavy fabric strips that slap against your automobile during a car wash. (That brings to mind the musical number "Sugar Daddy" from Hedwig & the Angry Inch). That resulted in wide, embellished strips on the hems of those fabulous short dresses you see in the second photo. In person, those hems had great movement, perfect for dancing.

photos by David TW Leung

Of course, the signature look of Custo Barcelona is the rich mix of textures and patterns. Plaid was mixed with woolly tweed. Brightly colored woven patterns with a black ground echoed the textiles I often see in South America. Some of the prints I saw looked like inkblots from a Rorschach test. There were big furry collars for both and women.

Accessories were designed to coordinate with the clothing. rounded messenger bag type shapes and carry-all handbags were blocked with matching patterns and textures as the outfits. If your legs are cold in the fall/winter season, the brand is offering up a sort of legwarmer or shoe/boot extender in fabrics that match the clothing as well. It is an interesting item that doesn't quite fit into any specific accessory category.

Custo Barcelona's fall 2015 does loud and busy in a way that looks sophisticated and Euro-chic. Also, I bet you'll never look at a car wash the same way again.

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Custo Barcelona Spring 2015

It may be cold outside but for Custo Barcelona’s Spring 2015 collection, the runway was hot hot hot. Designer Custo Dalmau’s goal for the NY Fashion Week runway show was to show off the body.  He succeeded beautifully.

This was not just a sleazy skin fest. It was about the creative use of cut-outs, embroideries, textile combinations, sheer textured fabrics, silhouettes with great cuts. Custo Barcelona as a brand is best known for its bold mixes of patterns and dimensional materials to build a sculptured, if not always “tasteful” in the classical sense.

Metallic prints were combined with laminated laces. Sexy swimwear was mixed with coordinating cover ups. Purses, messenger bags and shoes were designed to match motifs and textures of the clothing collection.

Menswear had a more subdued look, but the women’s catwalk outfits definitely did not have the wallflower in mind. That doesn’t mean anyone should be intimidated by the Custo Barcelona collection. Each piece individually is gorgeous, the intricate work of the combined patterns and fabrications is a great statement garment that can be paired with a more basic staple.

On a gray dreary day, can’t everyone use a bit of color and shine?

photos by Mariana Leung

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Custo Barcelona Fall 2014

Do you see fur in your reflection?  Custo Barcelona's Fall 2014 collection at NY Fashion Week was an abundance of both.  Bold reflective fabrics in loud artistic prints were paired with brightly colored fur, also in patterns and color blocked.

Custo Barcelona has already proved season after season that they are the leaders in the pattern and mixed fabric mash-up.  They went for the extreme this season with the shiniest and furriest.  The runway looks aren't for everyone, and they do hint how to pull their louder pieces off in every day life.  The looks were worn with solid black tights or solid black tops.  Urbanites who normally wear a lot of black can easily incorporate one bright statement piece for the day without feeling self conscious.

The vintage wayfarer-style shades many of the models wore seemed to indicate they knew exactly how bright or reflective their outfits were.  Blunt bangs and straight cut hair had a futuristic, utilitarian vibe. Custo Barcelona girls are no wallflowers in any century.

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Radiant Orchid: Pantone's Color of the Year 2014

There you have it, the much anticipated Pantone Color of the Year was announced as Radiant Orchid.  The color is a pinkish purple, somewhere between a pastel and bright tone.  Designers of all fields, trendwatchers and creative media have and are influenced by this announcement.

 Is it truly that important? Consider this, business leaders who otherwise have no opinion on color or design have been known to pull their investment from a brand for their lack of the color in their upcoming collections, thinking they are no longer relevant.  Ouch.

Besides the purple/pink color as the hue of 2014, the "orchid" part of the equation is also key.  When scrolling through my photo albums of New York Fashion Week, I found that designers who made this color a key component of their collections also incorporated it into bold patterns resembling tropical florals.

Desigual had huge over-sized painterly blossoms (clockwise from top left).  Custo Barcelona used the color ethnic, geometric prints.  Theia embroidered big blooms in sequins.  Dolores Cortes used it as an accent on a retro styled print.  Monique Lhuillier appliqued flowers in the orchid color onto elegant dresses.  Mordekai had the most literal interpretation, with a model in a purple bikini wrapped in orchids.

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Custo Barcelona Spring 2014

 Spring is shaping up to be about prints and more prints with shine.  Custo Barcelona's show for NY fashion week layered graphic patterns into well-tailored silhouettes for men and women.

The color palette had a cheery range of pastels like pink and citrus green that was accented with darker colors like navy and black.  Shimmering iridescent finishes and metallic surfaces of fabric added another dimension.  On top of the varied sizes of chevron type prints, there were pretty embellishments of embroidery and appliqué.   My personal favorite was the fringe like element on a skirt made with very slim tubes of printed fabric then attached onto a skirt.

With the bright color, shine and patterns, you would think it would limit the customer base for this collection.   Wrong.  The sleek pieces work for all ages and bodies for the most part in sportswear.  While you might not wear them all together in one look, a jacket or dress would look great at the office.  The swimwear is sexy and fun for the most luxurious of beach towns.  Shoes were just as desirable.  They were made with the iridescent coordinating patterns to complement the clothing. 

The menswear palette was a little more subtle.  There were earthier tones and more neutral greys in the mix.  The shimmering prints were used more as an accent than the main feature.  The clothing silhouettes themselves were quite basic.  Again, this group was commercial, but far from boring. 

As much fun as the looks were on this catwalk, I wish the models reflected that.  Unlike Desigual’s dancing and laughing models, the representatives were somber, even stricken looking in comparison.  I just don’t understand why the director would make that choice.  In the past, the Custo show was about being bold and alive.  Yes, the clothes can speak for themselves, but even the brightest look could use a hype man no?
What was YOUR favorite look from this show?

photos by Mariana Leung

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NY Fashion Week Fall 2013 Preview

What do the designers of NY Fashion Week have in store for us next week? Check out some preview fashion sketches below...

 Pamella Roland's sketches show some sexy, dramatic evening looks.  The designs says she was "I was inspired by the ornate interior of the winter palace in Saint Petersburg, Russia."

Designer Son Jung Wan was also inspired by former Soviet Union, “This season I was inspired by two great Russian works of art: Kandinsky’s balance of color and the ornate lines seen throughout Catherine Palace.”

Monika Chiang however, took a more stark route,  “I’m fascinated by mechanics, the bold geometry and graphic shapes created through flight. It is that raw power and beauty that is at the heart of my Fall 2013 collection.”

Custo Barcelona looks like it has some cozy knits and textures in store for us for fall...

Misha Nonoo is taking a romantic take inspired by "War and Peace".  For Fall 2013, the designer says to “Think Edie Campbell takes a weekend trip to Russia to visit descendants of the Russian Romanov’s for a carefree weekend filled with Fabergé egg hunts and caviar. ”

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Custo Barcelona Spring 2013

Barcelona is the land of complex prints, at least according to designers/brother Custo and David Dalmau.  The label's New York Fashion Week show had a terrific palette of bright purples, greens, red, yellow, well, a bit of everything.  There were interesting fabric treatments and embroideries as the label is known for, including one leather, gladiator-type mini dress.  Feather and fringe gave movement to the embellishments.

In the shoe department they took chunky and platform heels to new heights.  Dainty they were not, echoing prints and colors from the clothing.  The best accessory for this season though were LEGS.  Legs were shown off in short skirts, high/low hems, leggings and skinny pants.

The mythology of the brand is that the brothers conceived the collection on a motorcycle trip.  The Southern California vibe and their psychedelic colors are a huge hit overseas, more so than stateside.  Maybe all of us uptight Yankees need to get on whatever "trip" they did...

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NY Fashion Week Preview

Excited for NY Fashion Week yet? Just thought I would share some sneak peeks from fashion designers and their fashion illustrations for their upcoming runway shows.

Top, we have Custo Barcelona.  It looks for spring 2013, it will be a candy colored palette and of course, lots of texture!  Then we have Don O'Neill's sketch of a blue gown for Theia, and Norisol Ferrari's dramatic red dress.  Fierce and elegant.

In sportswear, VLOV looks like it is doing sedate but crisp suits for spring.  Jenni Kayne is working the variegated stripe and flirty skirts. Tracy Reese is rocking skinny pants and bright colored jackets with a high low hem.

Libertine has some bright colors and interesting silhouettes ready.  Rachel Roy's sketches show some flattering seaming details for spring and a continuation on the trend of color blocking.  Vivienne Tam drew upon inspiration from the 5 elements and Christian Siriano was inspired by the American Ballet.

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Custo Barcelona Spring 2012

Explode into Spring 2012 with the most patterned, printed and embellished brand on the market.  Custo Barcelona did not disappoint for their Lincoln Center show.  Jackets, skirts, pants, swimwear and dresses were splashed with attention-screaming looks. 

While it doesn't happen that often, menswear was given equal attention.  The runway saw coordinated pairs in a somewhat more neutral palette.  These looks were still bold, but might appeal to a more mainstream audience.  Either that, or obnoxiously cute couples who insist on dressing alike.

The show brought out celebs, from Gossip girl's Matthew Settle , True Blood's Carrie Preston and former contestants of America's Next Top Model.  

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Custo Barcelona - Fall 2011

The attitude was wild and brash.  David and Custodio Dalmau’s show for Custo Barcelona is one of the most anticipated during fashion week for its vibrant outlook.   For me, it was the first time seeing them live on the runway.  My eyes were blinded from the swirling patterns.

There were several pieces that evolved from last Fall’s ‘it’ item, the fur vest.  For the upcoming season, there was a feathered, halter vest, looped wool jacket, layered faux fur stripe cape and stripes of bleached white.  Their signature mix of prints this season included 1960’s geometrics mixed with electric paisley for a Bohemian look.  Metallic animal prints were combined with swirling knits that took you easily from Ibiza to Goa and then back to the city again.

Fashion designers tend to have 'runway' looks that are purely editorial.  By the time the pieces trickle down to the stores, the looks are tame and less theatrical.

Seeing the Custo Barcelona shops in Madrid last month, I can attest that this is one label where that does not apply.  What you see is what you get. 

Photos by Ritika Wahal

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Custo Barcelona Fact or Fiction Spring 2011

Fall fashion in NYC generally means dark and somber colors.  Custo Barcelona defies this in leaps and bounds.  The spring 2011 offerings being previewed were a super-bright mix of prints and embellishment techniques.  The luxe pieces included pieced tops that included pleated details, appliques.  Another dress included beading and embroidery.  A jacket was created with eyelet, piping and studs.  Dresses with fringe, dresses with feathers...

Textiles with multiple dying techniques from different countries made the cut.  The knits collection had prints with every color of the rainbow.   This collection is clearly for the bold and extroverted.  The bags and shoes followed the same aesthetic.  

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Custo Barcelona's Hairy Metal Fall 2010

Extroverts, start your engines! The Custo Barcelona collection for Fall 2010 Sunday evening was specifically designed to make a (loud) statement for whomever wears their clothes.

Designers Custo and David Dalmau have earned a celebrity following with their flamboyant prints and sexy silhouettes. The presentation on the runway took this image up a notch. Elements of fur and sequins gave some luxe to the collection. Super short skirts and dresses, patterned suits and leggings. The color palette was rich with purple, royal blue, fushia and brights. The fur trim and jackets were more Blade Runner than Brooke Astor.

The show was lit like a nightclub with a soundtrack to match. It clearly marked the Custo girl as not the lady who lunches in beige tearooms. Handbags were large, slouchy and trimmed to match the clothing.

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