Nanette Lepore Spring 2014

Damn, is it spring YET?  Nanette Lepore's cheerful colors and pretty embroideries perked up the runways at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.  Bright shadow florals, bright pastels and fiery red accented the feminine silhouettes for spring 2014.

There was a whole range of coordinated accessories.  Handbags in totes, carryalls and oversized clutches were made in matching optic check or shadow floral print or a combination of all.  Shoes were chunky, comfortable, open wide sandals in bright color block or matching prints.

Like the combination of quirky patterns and silhouettes, the collection was a happy family, much like the company itself.  Nanette always takes a bow with her daughter, while brother Jimmy is a cheerleader behind the scenes.

Photos by Mariana Leung

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Jill Stuart Spring 2014

Lingerie and the 1970’s was the inspiration behind Jill Stuart’s Spring 2014 collection for New York Fashion Week.  Designers have been using innerwear as outerwear muse for centuries. 

Josephine waged her own gender power war against Napoleon by making the unstructured look fashionable (and almost bankrupted his reign through fashion when he married someone else).  Corset styling was norm across all price points recent years. 

Jill Stuart had plenty slip-like dresses, lacy embellishments with safe color palettes of off-white variations and black. 

My fellow photographers and I had noticed a noticeable increase in diversity, both in the crowds and on the runway this season for spring 2014 presentations.  The exception was this Jill Stuart show.  While there was possibly 1 vaguely Asian looking model, I remember the impression of this runway was a lot of blonde, blonde, blonde.

While no designer should be dictated to in terms of who they should cast, the tide is clearly to be more inclusive than exclusive by the leading fashion brands of today.  Perhaps the designer is only reflecting her own experiences; her bio clearly indicates that her entry into the industry was based on her parents having already built a successful clothing company before it was handed to her.  While I take this with a grain of salt, I have had close friends work for this company and quit in protest of the dehumanizing culture they found there. 

This shouldn't have a bearing on what I think of an individual season’s fashion collection, but it is difficult (for me) not to keep in mind who a designer is as a person with their creations.  Does that make me see the looks on the catwalk as clothes made for privileged women who don’t work for a living?   Is that unfair or exactly the target market, therefore success! 

One of Jill Stuart’s bragging rights in her bio is that the brand created many of the looks in the 1990’s movie “Clueless”.  This was a cute story of entitled privileged children who have everything handed to them with no efforts of their own.  Sure it was one of my favorite fashion films that year, but the fact remains the same.

What do you think? Does a designer’s personal philosophy and who they cast as models affect how you see (and shop) the brand?

 Photos by David TW Leung

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Richard Chai Love Spring 2014

Fresh, clean and preppy are the boys and girls of Richard Chai Love.  His spring 2014 collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week was full of easy silhouettes in white, brighter pastels and a summering version of camouflage.  Variegated stripes were mixed with a warm weather moto jacket alternative. 

Richard Chai was briefly a classmate of mine at Parsons.  He dropped out to do his own thing and I think it paid off.  His look is simple, privileged, like the crew from Gossip Girl went out to the country and played lawn tennis.  Accessories were minimal.  Boat shoes for guys, comfortable, but chic sandals for the ladies.  Hair was combed back for a simple classic look. 

Not fan of front row stalking, but the Geek in me couldn't help but be giddy at Wednesday Addams (Christina Ricci) and Spock (Zachary Quinto) sitting next to each other... (Next to Zachary were the Jonas Brothers, but not nearly as excited about them).

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Ivana Helsinki Spring 2014

The Bridges of Madison County movie and the road trip that echoed it was Paola Suhonen's inspiration for Ivana Helsinki Spring 2014.  The designer is an artist and filmmaker herself.  Both are evident in how she channeled the emotions of the film into the clothing silhouettes and her original artwork that became the fabric prints.

The collection had beautiful, floating dresses.  The romantic prairie dresses or light cotton pieces with dainty ruffles here and there initially look simple.  A closer looks shows the sophisticated details of a running butterfly theme.  The bohemian butterfly is carried through in embroidered motifs, intricate prints, cutout appliques and crochet knit patterns on the clothing.  In accessories, they are layered in leather, laser cut out of gloves, stamped in metal and stitched on over-sized floppy hats.  The make-up took on a dark moody look with deep lipstick and loose curls pulled back.

How does a family brand born in Helsinki feel so passionate about a love story from rural America?  Is Paola Suhonen's home of isolated Slavic geography and melancholy art culture have similarities with lives in Iowa?  Perhaps these two areas are the perfect pair for a design exchange.

Photos by Mariana Leung

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Rachel Zoe Spring 2014

Congratulations Rachel Zoe and Rodger Berman! The couple recently welcomed their baby boy Kaius Jagger to the world.  While Rachel Zoe worked on her newest "production" her spring 2014 collection did not seem to suffer.  Her fashion at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week was a more cohesive presentation than previous shows.

The color palette was a cleaner mix of ivory, dark brown, black basics with lots of bold animal or bohemian geometric prints.  The overall styling looks exactly like Rachel Zoe as a brand, rather than a greatest hits of what she might wear from other designers as I have criticized in the past.  Lots of long flowing tunics, long jackets, short shorts gave you a range of lengths and silhouettes.  It looked upscale, easy to wear and perfect for the California lifestyle she embodies. 

Shoes were a blend of gladiator sandals and heeled upgrades of them.  Metallic, zig zag straps, prints made them fun.  Of course vests and hats were a part of the mix as you would expect from Rachel Zoe. 

I am a little disappointed that we aren't going to see how the undoubtedly destined to be stylish Kaius Jagger Berman will spend his first few days in the world.  News of the cancellation of the stylist's reality show had just been announced around fashion week.

You just have to be a celebrity getting dressed for the red carpet this award season for your chance to cuddle the new fabulous one. 

Photos by Mariana Leung

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Malan Breton Spring 2014

If you were living the life of a luxe Barbie doll, how would you choose to dress?  Malan Breton's Spring 2014 collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week answered that question for me.  The elegant presentation at Lincoln Center was a mix of icy pink silk, electric blue, black, red and frosty white.
The ladies wore exquisitely tailored suit jackets with cigarette pants that grazed the ankle.  Dresses were young and upscale, like a prom straight out of Gossip Girl.  The gentlemen wore dapper suits with an interesting play on proportions.  Shorts could be mixed with long jackets, double breasted coats with shimmering silk pants.  They were definitely in brighter (and shinier) colors than your average American man is comfortable with.

However, Malan Breton himself is far from the average man.  He is a Renaissance gent who has built a reputation on costume work and television.  However, Wikipedia also makes note of his writing, photography, directing, musician and mentor in addition to designing his own fashion label.  With all of that, he also finds time to dedicate work to charities like amFAR and Care and Share India.

What drives a man to work at so many endeavors at once? Is it boredom?  Is it curiosity?  Maybe it is just a love of life.  I hope to find out some day.

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Tracy Reese Spring 2014

Ladies who saunter to the beat of a festive drum.  Tracy Reese's Spring 2014 fashion show at Lincoln Center was a sexy parade of bright colors, floral prints with Latin flair and Cuban swagger.  This designer, along with colleague Byron Lars is a favorite of Michelle Obama.  You can picture the First Lady showing off her muscular arms in the fitted short sheath dresses or presenting a great speech in the well cut print blazers.  

With tilted fedoras and cigarette pants, there were many looks that came down in pairs.  The bag of choice was a complementary printed backpack for the girl REALLY on the go (for great distances).  The models were cozy with each other, prompting me to wonder if another type of message was being expressed in support of recent political rulings.  True or not, I know the burly male photographers in the pit with me did not mind.

Tracy Reese was always a down to earth woman when I was first assigned to her as my designer mentor at Parsons School of Design.  She had the best assignments and constructive advice.  It was good to see her again when I volunteered to photographer Tracy Reese for the Fashion Fights Cancer event.

I love that her look is always a mix of fun and feminine for grown women.  I love the embellishment and play of colors with mixed prints.  No wallflowers, just blooming ones please!

Photos by Mariana Leung

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Pamella Roland Spring 2014

The glamour of 1960's film stars was the inspiration for Pamella Roland's Spring 2014 collection at New York Fashion Week.  After attending the Cannes Film Festival last year, the designer wanted to evoke the style of classic movie beauties like Brigitte Bardot and Grace Kelly.

The clothes had simple, elegant silhouettes with a clean color palette of white, black, sunny orange, blush and Cote d'Azur blues.  Several pink dresses paired with blonde bouffants reminded me of vintage Barbie dolls.  There were ladylike shifts and suits along with one particular show-stopping chiffon gown that swirled on the runway in a cloud of coral.  I also loved the graceful models who worked the red carpet looks like big puffy taffeta capes and floral fishtail gowns.

The signature motif was a honeycomb hexagon pattern that showed up in embroideries and mirror appliques.  This added a mod graphic touch to the otherwise sedate looks in some cases.

Pamella Roland has never been the most fashion-forward label.  I believe her core client is a little more established, a little less adventurous, but that's okay.  These are the ladies you can only hope to be when you grow up and achieved all you wanted to achieve.  Even if all you wanted was to dance in the sand.

Pamella Roland SS14 photos by David TW Leung

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Nautica Black Sail - Spring 2014

From Father's Day special to D.I.L.F.s.  Nautica Sportswear's launch of the Black Sail collection at NY Fashion Week was their big push to show themselves as a sleeker, more fashion forward menswear brand.

Nautica's biggest visibility in the past few years was usually the round of Father's Day gift-giving commercials from Macy's for their basic knit polos.  For Spring 2014, the brand showed sexy leather shorts, body hugging knits, slim pants and crisp jackets.  A decidedly more smouldering look, but not out of the realm of their core customer.  Having worked with the brand, I do know for a fact that several of the core creative collaborators are hot Dads.

Meanwhile, there was a large protest outside of this fashion show led by model Sara Ziff.  The protest was against Nautica's refusal to sign the Bangladesh Accord of Fire and Safety after the horrible tragedy of sweatshop workers.   I am very sorry to hear and baffled by Nautica's refusal to support basic safety conditions for their workers.  I can't say my working conditions in the NYC office were ideal (we were forced to fit in the kitchen with people walking through with microwaved fish, or security doors that actually locked us in when the fire alarm went off).  But to publicly make known that you don't care as a brand about your workers? Wow. 

Does knowing if your favorite designer supports the Bangladesh Accord affect whether or not you want to purchase from them?

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Toronto Street Style - World MasterCard Fashion Week

What look represents Toronto street fashion?  At World MasterCard Fashion Week, the best examples are out on display.  While Toronto Fashion Week is still growing its reputation and credibility, the overall street fashion aesthetic has distinct characteristics.

Based on personal experience, Toronto weather is unpredictable at best.  It can be brutally cold and wet, beautiful and warm, or windy as hell all in the same day.  Canadians have to keep practicality in mind, so layering is popular.  Furry and cozy is comfortable AND a way to incorporate a dramatic coat.

Canadians have always prided themselves on diversity, (in school, we called ourselves the "mixed salad" in contrast to the Americans' "melting pot").  You see this reflected in the way that people style cultural silhouettes and patterns into modern chic ensembles.  Ethnic prints are cut into great silhouettes.  Traditional hairstyles are accessorized with statement pieces.

Let's not forget the Canadian sense of humor.  The fashionistas in Toronto look gorgeous, but they don't take themselves too seriously.  One thing I observed in the images of people posing in front of fashion shows in other cities and in Toronto is that you find people here laughing and smiling (unless they are doing a deliberate impression of a bad "blue steel").

What defines street style in your city?

Photos by Katherine Wong

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Herve Leger Spring 2014

What makes your outfit sexy?  Is it the accessories, you or the clothing? The Herve Leger Spring 2014 collection made an argument for all three. Intricate kaleidoscope prints were paired with gorgeous leather corset belts.  Many of the pieces were elaborately trimmed with zippers for a luxe punk touch.  You could actually wear these with more sedate pieces at the office to add an edgy look.  

Instead of Herve Leger’s signature elastic band dresses, there were some interesting layered knit dresses.  I’m wondering if these have the same supportive functional as the classic dresses did.  If they don’t, that could be losing many of their hard core fans. 

There were a lot of swimwear looks as part of this collection; probably to capture the St. Tropez, Ibiza or even South Beach crowd.  They looked hot.

Accessories included sleek clutch handbags for another season (also in their sister collection BCBG).  Shoes were simple wide band sandals with chunky clear heels. 

 As good as the prints and swimwear looked though; my criticism here is that it looked quite a bit like the Gottex collection for the past two seasons.    The leather pieces with the ruffles, perforated patterns and bustier looks were reminiscent of Gaultier, Dolce & Gabbana and other designers of seasons past. I know there is very little originality in fashion anymore, but it shouldn't be so obvious from a label that already has a very distinctive identity.  When many iconic labels have reinvented their heritage image, why is this one abandoning theirs?

What did you think of this collection?

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Custo Barcelona Spring 2014

 Spring is shaping up to be about prints and more prints with shine.  Custo Barcelona's show for NY fashion week layered graphic patterns into well-tailored silhouettes for men and women.

The color palette had a cheery range of pastels like pink and citrus green that was accented with darker colors like navy and black.  Shimmering iridescent finishes and metallic surfaces of fabric added another dimension.  On top of the varied sizes of chevron type prints, there were pretty embellishments of embroidery and appliqué.   My personal favorite was the fringe like element on a skirt made with very slim tubes of printed fabric then attached onto a skirt.

With the bright color, shine and patterns, you would think it would limit the customer base for this collection.   Wrong.  The sleek pieces work for all ages and bodies for the most part in sportswear.  While you might not wear them all together in one look, a jacket or dress would look great at the office.  The swimwear is sexy and fun for the most luxurious of beach towns.  Shoes were just as desirable.  They were made with the iridescent coordinating patterns to complement the clothing. 

The menswear palette was a little more subtle.  There were earthier tones and more neutral greys in the mix.  The shimmering prints were used more as an accent than the main feature.  The clothing silhouettes themselves were quite basic.  Again, this group was commercial, but far from boring. 

As much fun as the looks were on this catwalk, I wish the models reflected that.  Unlike Desigual’s dancing and laughing models, the representatives were somber, even stricken looking in comparison.  I just don’t understand why the director would make that choice.  In the past, the Custo show was about being bold and alive.  Yes, the clothes can speak for themselves, but even the brightest look could use a hype man no?
What was YOUR favorite look from this show?

photos by Mariana Leung

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Clover Canyon Spring 2014

The West Coast invaded the East Coast. California based label Clover Canyon presented their spring 2014 collection in the (HOT) Box venue at Lincoln Center during Mercedes-Benz Fashion week.  The designers must have brought the head as models were wilting and fainting right off the podiums.  

I loved this collection for their hyper vivid prints.  They have a sharp, digital graphic quality that just popped off the body.  Designer Rozae Nichols was inspired by top artists and architects of the 1950s. Many of the prints are painstakingly engineered to follow the lines of the body which can look very flattering on the right person.  I have to say this is one of my first experiences in seeing this line and I loved it at first sight.  

Now if they could bring California winters this way as well, that would be appreciated.

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Cherry Blossom Dreams from THEIA Spring 2014

A stroll through the garden to admire cherry blossoms and a dream of Japan inspired Don O'Neill's spring 2014 collection for THEIA.  His NY Fashion Week presentation at the New York Palace Hotel was an exquisite display of traditional embroidered silks  but also modern digitally printed neoprene.

The beautiful motifs were inspired by classic paintings by Hokusai and also the designer's photos from the Brooklyn Botanical Garden.  Bold seams of black, red, white echoed vintage kimono looks and graffiti while palettes of pink and blue reflect the colors of spring.  The Eastern muse is a departure from Theia's European Goddesses of light.  The long sweeping silhouettes or elegant beaded sheaths are sure to show up on the next round of red carpet Goddesses this award season... 

Bravo Don!

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Resurgence Detroit - Ann Yee Spring 2014

I love a designer who creates on a cerebral level and an aesthetic one.  Ann Yee's spring 2014 collection for NY Fashion Week was first inspired by the history of urban Detroit.  She thought about its decayed architecture and economic state and now the progressing resurgence as a city.  How did she translate this on a fashion level?

There were industrial colors of steel grey and concrete softened with some pale blue and pink.  Her silhouettes in woven items had architectural elements mixed with detailed knitwear design.  Metallics were used in the fabrics, accessories and styling as tribute to the automotive industry.  The star print in her presentation was one created from a series of photographs taken by her cousin and brother of the city.  Images of iconic Detroit buildings, graffiti, urban corners showed that even the simplest parts of a community can be beautiful.

Print created by Ann Yee's family

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Jenny Packham Spring 2014

The 1970's hit the NY Fashion Week runways for spring 2014.  Jenny Packham, a favorite of Kate Middleton and many red carpet celebrities brought the decade of nightlife to her evening wear.  There were many long silky skirts and off-the-shoulder styles that echoed the easy peasant look.  There were also the short, sleeveless jumpers I remembered from childhood.  However, they were interpreted in luxury fabrics and delicately embroidered.

The easy silhouettes almost reminded me of elegant nightgowns at times, and the over sized clutch handbags looked like teddy bears.  Instead they were appliqued with lots of silk flowers.  Hair was styled like relaxed wavy bohemian girls.  Jewelry included white iris hair pins and rings.

Some of these styles already made an appearance at the Emmy Awards from last Sunday.  Do you think they should hit the disco next?

photos by Mariana Leung

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Behind The Scenes: Byron Lars Spring 2014

So here is a sneak peek at one of my favorite designers of all time.  Byron Lars allowed the Ms. Fab team to hang out for their Spring 2014 lookbook photo shoot.  The next few months will be difficult as I saw many pieces that I can't wait to buy and wear.

There was a great group of dresses with a candy colored tweed print by our own Mdivani Monroe. This was paired with a pieced argyle top, corset-like patent belts, metallic basketweave fabrics and lasercut details.  Other dresses mixed brocade and spikes, embroidered tulle, chains and an ironic/pretty moth print.

I love that this designer always makes sexy, but elegant clothes that flatter power women with curves.  (Michelle Obama is a consistent fan!) As intricate as the details can get in each dress, Byron never takes himself too seriously.  Even with a sleek, sheath silhouette, you might find three layers of fabrics in cut-outs, lace and prints to build a layered, textured depth to the design.  This then might be topped with manipulated trims or sequins or ribbon.

The amount of work and consideration that goes into each look is astounding.  I am lucky enough to have started contributing to this collection is a tiny way by organizing some of the production.  I get to drool over each piece as I measure and send fit corrections to the buyers.

For the lookbook shoot itself, the styling stayed simple.  Straight, sleek hair pulled into variations ont on the ponytail.  Makeup colors stayed naturalistic.  Models Anna and Jasmin seemed to really enjoy vamping it up in outfits they loved more and more.

I can't wait to see which celebrity picks this collection up first.  Care to wager a guess?

photos by Mariana Leung

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Zang Toi's Ballerina Babes

This show is always the one I look forward for NY fashion week.  The inspiration of Zang Toi's Spring 2014 collection was the grace beauty of ballet.  The fashion show opened with Cory Stearns, the handsome star of the American Ballet Theater gracing guests with a performance.

The collection that followed was a parade of silk fantasy looks. There were ballgowns of ruffled tulle.  There were elegant silk crepe suits.  There were long fishtail gowns embroidered with beads, platinum thread or delicate silk flowers.  The color palette was a dark charcoal paired with icy blue or ballet pink.

The clothes were not only beautiful, Zang Toi gives his audience the complete package of dramatic models, well fed photographers and guests who get to go home with nail lacquer coordinated to the collection.  The man puts the show in "fashion show". Appropriately, the normally jaded audience gave him another standing ovation this season as they have done in the past.

Bravo to another grand performance Zang!

Ballet Babe Cory Stearns

original photos by David TW Leung

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