#NYBFW Theia Bridal Spring 2020

Happy Bridal Week! Theia Bridal Spring 2020 collection was a sparkling tribute to 1970s style icons. This decade was a beautiful era to showcase the body flattering draped crepe fabrics that Theia has been producing in recent seasons. Designer Don O'Neill paid tribute to the disco era, not with cliches, but evoking the spirit of women like Bianca Jagger and Farrah Fawcett. Plunging necklines, jumpsuits, silver and hand-beaded details all give the Studio 54 vibe, but with an elegant upgrade for a dance down the aisle.

Sure, there are big ballgowns of structured, heavy, uncomfortable dresses out there. The Theia Bridal collection is for the bride on the move, who wants something comfortable and elevated expression of her personal style. The looks from this 2020 bridal collection are sexy and sleek for a range of body shapes. Models of different shapes modeled them on this runway to demonstrate just that.

Styling the show, you saw Bianca Jagger's signature hat and an update of the brushed back curls of Farrah. The makeup was close to natural with a hint of extra shine on the lips. The glittering flowers and orchids as the backdrop were created by Fleur de Pascal.

If you plan on dancing throughout your wedding and need the glamour, the Theia Bridal Spring 2020 collection is perfect for you!

All photos by Mariana Leung

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NYBFW: Theia Bridal Spring 2019

Who hasn't dreamt of being a Princess Bride? The Theia Bridal Spring 2019 collection at NY Bridal Fashion Week was a celebration of European queens and princesses, iconic and modern. By modern, this means brides of all shapes, lifestyles and sizes, who were represented on his runway.

Each gown had different cuts, style lines to create dramatic silhouettes that flattered different areas of the wearer. Elegant embroidery was designed to also accentuate the curves of the body. There was a regal sophistication to every look from this collection that hinted at princesses of history (as each gown was named after) but with a thoroughly contemporary execution.

Designer Don O'Neill has always been thoughtful in designing gowns for real women. From creating his signature laser-cut fabric paillettes for comfort to his little tricks of draping to give extra ease in areas where the wearer might feel self-conscious to the ever-important "bra-friendly" styling that customers want. His record with celebrities as diverse as Gabourey Sidibe to Carrie Underwood has demonstrated his skill in making everyone look beautiful.

I sighed when I saw the jeweled tiaras. Who wants a veil when you have a princess crown? While I don't have any photos of the flowers, Fleur de Pascal's creations belonged in palace.

For anyone who can't wait for the Royal Wedding this May, they got their fill from this gorgeous show!

Photos courtesy of Theia.

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NY Bridal Week: THEIA Fall 2017

Easy breezy. Theia designer Don O'Neill brought his bridal collection for Fall 2017 back to its roots. He wanted his bride free of contrived themes. He designed many of the looks specifically for the destination bride. This meant lighter, crushable looks that could be rolled up in a suitcase and flown to the beach.

Seeing the detailed wedding looks, you wouldn't think they were luggage-friendly. There were multiple looks of lightweight, soft lace. Silk mousseline and silk chiffon were also breezy and light. Don O'Neill also has a talent for taking popular sportswear silhouettes like this season's wide-legged jumpsuit and upgrading it into an elegant bridal look with lace or draped crepe.

Embroideries were kept light and delicate. Glass beading and nude colored linings were mean to emulate sand and sea glass. Don O'Neill got married himself near his hometown in Ireland the past summer. His destination wedding served as part of the inspiration as it was also near the beach. There was a bit of aspirational design here, though, the runway looks were meant for sunnier skies than the rainclouds he had on his big day.

The beautiful flower crowns with pearl accents worked in that topped the models' hair were full of mermaid chic. Fittingly, they were a collaboration with newlywed husband and creative director of Fleur de Pascal. I noticed the looks of the show were named after various beach beauties, like Ariel from The Little Mermaid and Venus of Greek mythology, rising from the sea in a giant clamshell.

Theia isn't the first designer this season to reset and refresh the collection down to its roots. Simplifying and creating clean fashion design so it can be perfected is a wonderful movement that I am seeing from the top designers this season. Forget the wedding, I just want to run away in a gorgeous THEIA dress at the prettiest beach I can find.

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NY Bridal Week: THEIA Spring 2017 Sci-Fi Bride

Wow. Just wow. THEIA's runway show for NY Bridal Week put the BANG in big bang theory. The name THEIA refers to the Goddess of light. For his spring 2017 bridal collection, designer Don O'Neill created a futuristic runway around his belief that the concept of love is represented by pure, white light. 

The look of the collection was inspired by the underwater photography of Rafal Makiela . The rippled silver backdrop and catwalk reflected light onto the bright white fabrics. Reflection was a running theme in the materials from this collection. There were foil printed silver and white fabrics.

Rafal Makiela underwater photo

Silvery laser-cut paillettes. There were several "naked" dresses that highlighted incredible beading that looked like swirling stars. There was a gown with a plasticized nylon bodice, another with glazed sequin embroidery.
The most dramatic looks were the ones that looked like they were dressed for the wedding of a science fiction fantasy. There was a silk crepe gown that was orbited by a sparkling starry halo (a much more interesting alternative to a veil). Another stunning look was a tall "vortex"collar made of raffia that framed the model. The final look of a crystal corset seemed to defy gravity. It really did look like water had been splashed against the model and just hung in the air.

Some of the accompanying bouquets that were carried by the brides were equally space-worthy. Elegant orchids were entwined with silver and crystal tentacles. Platinum spears were arranged with spiky plants I couldn't even recognize. Do you think the science fiction element stops there? All of the bridal looks were named after characters from Star Wars, Star Trek and other genre films like the Fifth Element, The Matrix, and Alien.

 The floral artist was Fleur de Pascal, who just happened to be the fiance of the designer. Their upcoming nuptials will be taking place by Don O'Neill's hometown. It was also pointed out to me that it was also near the site of where they were filming the next Star Wars movie.

The THEIA Spring 2017 bridal collection was not only romantic on many levels, but it was really fun. The avant-garde looks and geeky references hit me where I live. I can't wait to see photos from the upcoming wedding and hope there are just as many sci-fi references there too.

Runway photos by Mariana Leung

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Theia Fall 2016 - In the Spirit of the Mad Marchesa

Theia's Fall 2016 evening wear collection found its inspiration the legendary Marchesa Luisa Casati. 'IT' girls today may take selfies, but real socialites inspire painters and designers for decades after their passing.  

Designer Don O'Neill was smitten with this painting of the Marchesa by Joseph Paget-Fredericks depicting her walking her pet cheetahs in an elegant ensemble. Casati was remembered as an eccentric who favored exotic patterns, extravagant headdresses, and muse to designers like Paul Poiret. Vintage photographs show her with wild curls, dramatic jewelry that framed her madcap spirit. Her most notable accessories included wearing live snakes as her statement necklace.

The Theia fall looks to pay tribute to her in exotic animal brocades with a metallic sheen. There rich
embroideries of gold, jet and crystal jewels. Other fabrics included textured florals, foil laminated prints. My favorite gown was the fishtail gown of black, metallic burgundy and navy with an elaborate beads feather curling around the spine, almost like a tattoo. It's that dress that makes a spectacular entrance; the gives you a further surprise when the wearer exits. If that doesn't suit an eccentric Marchesa, I can't imagine what else will.

While there was certainly shorter cocktail dresses and day looks in this collection, fall 2016 was defined for me with the elongated 1930s silhouettes. A woman posed in these gowns shows off all the right curves of her body. The slim top shows off the arms so she can carry a cigarette holder, handbag, yes even a wildcat on a leash and it will look dramatic.

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Theia Spring 2016

My favorite fashion collections are ones that offer some escapism. THEIA Spring 2016 took you away on a romantic trip to Granada Spain. Specifically, designer Don O'Neill looked to the UNESCO World heritage site of Alhambra.

The palace at Alhambra was once a fortress before being converted into the royal palace in 1333. It is remarkable for the Moorish architecture with Byzantine influences. As you can see from O'Neill's mood board, the palace has stunning architectural details and painted tiles. 

You can see how the lacy carved stone entrances were interpreted in the embroidered lace gown above in the middle. All of the lovely painted tile patterns are incorporated into the digital prints on satin and chiffon. The rich blue and terra cotta colors along with Spanish sunshine have made their way into the overall color palette.

I am hoping to see more of these gowns on the red carpet of the ongoing awards season. My favorite Golden Globes dress came from THEIA already. I would love to see these patterns and sunny shades as an alternative to many of the predictable looks that celebrities usually wear. THEIA cuts to strategically flatter a woman's body with special details, so you can't go wrong. With THEIA spring 2016, you can be assured that you are surrounded by a palace. 

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NY Bridal Week: THEIA Fall 2016

NY Bridal Week got off on a very sexy start Thursday with THEIA's Fall 2016 Bridal collection. Designer Don O'Neill's inspiration this season was the sultry spirit of 1920s opium dens. 

What I love about how O'Neill designs his collections is that he considers his theme both aesthetically and intellectually. Aesthetically, you see influences of the time period in bias silhouettes and the very current trend of fringe worked into elegant gowns. You also see hints of Asian influence in the use of red for bridal gowns and the embroidery without veering into cultural appropriation that lesser designers are tempted by.
 A bit of the flapper influence immediately set the tone with that first look of vampy eye shadow and fur chubby and the beaded gown. Intellectually, the opium den was carried through in the spirit of a bride who has rid herself of her inhibitions and is now free. There were sheer dresses that served to highlight the graphic patterns of the embroidery. The 1920s was a breakthrough decade of major progress in women's lives so the liberation idea was appropriate there too.

In practical details, THEIA does a great job of taking classic details and current fashion trends and reworking them into bridal. Instead of standard cowl-back bias gown, there were multiple draped strips framing the back. Off-the-shoulder silhouettes were cut in modern shapes. Instead of using fringe in a bohemian way or traditional flapper dress, the placement was used to create movement where a sheer skirt or back cape detail might be.

A perfect partnership, floral designer Fleur de Pascal created dramatic orchid bouquets, lillies and over-sized lotus flowers for a sophisticated look. He wasn't afraid to go dark for the darker colored gowns adding to that sultry, illicit opium den vibe.

The THEIA bridal collection once again gave us a beautiful collection that is flattering, sexy and fashion forward. It has hints of classic bridal silhouettes but pushes them forward with updated trends. When the foggy opium den haze clears, what an image these gowns make.

photos by Mariana Leung

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Theia's Fairy-Tale Bride 2016

When designer Don O'Neill talks about creating a fairy-tale wedding, he means it. The THEIA 2016 bridal collection was inspired by illustrations of Hansel and Gretel, The Brothers Grimm and other storybooks of the Victorian era. The muse specifically was the Art Nouveau aesthetic of the artist Kay Rasmus Nielsen. 

You can see the influence in the delicate butterfly appliques on a bodice, the illustrations printed on transparent silk, Art Nouveau motifs beaded onto the gowns and wispy web-like fabric treatments complete the theme.

I grew up on the same books  that had these illustrations. I was also obsessed with Hansel and Gretel at the age of 3 (though it was more for the idea of a gingerbread house than anything else). At 5, I was obsessed with the witch after seeing the Canadian opera version of this tale. She was my childhood standard of glamor all the way into my teen years as she was the first person I had ever seen with glitter eyelashes and jeweled nails.

What many bridal collections do is water down trends seen in Haute Couture into a wedding dress. What I love about THEIA is that Don O'Neil will take fashion forward silhouettes from sportswear and give it a luxurious makeover for walking down the aisle. How gorgeous is the silk jacquard shirt dress? Crop tops,  a sleekly tailored suit are great for brides who want to stay true to their personal style when they get married.

My favorite dress though was the finale gown. It was a lacy sculpture of butterfly 3-dimensional corset. Design team member Eduarda used an innovative 3D printing pen tool to draw/sculpt/print? The bodice of the dress. This look was the epitome of what Theia does the best in the industry. The brand experiments with cutting-edge technology and use it to execute classically beautiful fashion aesthetic in a new way.

The intimate runway and backdrop were quite small but gave a thorough ambiance to the presentation. The woodsy moss runway and fanciful bouquets were created by fiancé floral designer Pascal Guillermie of Fleur de Pascal. It's so touching to see  the longtime partnership in real life was also the perfect creative  marriage on the runway, then soon to be romantic wedding in the upcoming year.

I already had my own wedding, but seeing THEIA's 2016 bridal line-up, I think I might go for a posh renewal of vows...

THEIA models and design team
photos by Mariana Leung

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Theia Fall 2015 - Exclusive Studio Visit

 I had the honor of visiting designer Don O'Neill to preview the THEIA Fall 2015 collection before much of the world. You can be embedded in the photographer's pit, interview backstage, but nothing lets you see a designer's vision as being in their design studio as they work on the collection itself.

Visiting the design space itself, you can see Don's design process. He started with contemporary Irish furniture designer Joseph Walsh. Specifically, his Lumenoria II collection. Walsh's signature aesthetic are his flowing, sinewy organic lines an naturalistic colors. The table below was a piece that Don O'Neill was moved by when he viewed it at The Salon At + Design Show at the New York Armory this past November. The lines in Walsh's work had symmetries with early 20th century Art Nouveau. The art movement was recognizable for its curved design lines and nature motifs that were popular in interior design, art, jewelry, you name it. Don incorporated all of it in his fall 2015 fashion collection.

photos by Mariana Leung

You can see the elegant curved lines in both the dress silhouettes and embroidery design. He tweaked the classic art nouveau dragonfly motif into a more modern butterfly beading. There is a nod to Tiffany glass in his "liquid glass" fabrication.

The sweeping shapes are incredibly flattering on yes, the "average" woman. It may be hard to believe, but I have always been impressed at how much Don takes (real) customer feedback into consideration when he designs THEIA. The style lines are flattering to the curves of the body. They are often "bra-friendly" or have built in fabric construction to give women some extra support in their shape. He adds little touches like shirring in strategic places just in case you (not just hungry celebrities) some breathing room at their next gala. Just in case you were wondering though, that leather halter dress on the left? Yes, Idina Menzel (aka Adele Dazeem) wore that at the Academy Awards last week.

I love seeing a designer and artist at work. Double bonus when THEIA's fashion collection is one that is attainable and one I can picture myself in for a glamorous occasion. Don O'Neill does it again!

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#NYBW: Theia Bridal Fall 2015

New York Bridal Week’s biggest trend was Frozen.  While other designers took it from the Disney movie, THEIA’s Don O’Neill took his inspiration literally, as in the frozen tundra of Mongolia.  Why Mongolia?  For Theia’s bridal fall 2015 collection, the designer worked with socially responsible cashmere supplier Naadam, who worked with nomadic tribes in the country to produce a unique gown for the show. 

In a beautiful collaboration of two cultures, the dress was hand knit in Mongolia, but using traditional stitches from Don’s Irish heritage.   The distinct texture of Mongolian lamb was also used as a poncho.  One of the gowns had the colors and pattern of a winter spruce landscape.  Other dresses had crystal and mirrored pailette embroidery that had the effect of glittering snow.  Disney’s “Elsa” could only wish for this wardrobe.  Theia was inspired by the myths and Goddesses of Europe long before the animated movie hit the theaters.

What I like about Don O’Neill’s approach to bridal, is that he thinks outside of the traditional wedding style box and takes more of a high fashion approach.  There was a slim jumpsuit paired with a wrap, a crop top with a ballgown skirt or woven ribbon tweed full length coat as an option.

The gorgeous bouquets also had a frozen flora look to them to accompany the runway looks.  The flowers were created by Fleur de Pascal. 

The models’ beaded hairpieces had the look of dripping icicles, but the dangling charm details have their roots in the garb of Asia's ethnic tribes (check out my Dad’s photo of a girl from the Yi tribe).

Thank you Don and THEIA for another gorgeous show!

 Runway photos by Robert Mitra, Mongolian Nomad and Yi tribal photo by David TW Leung

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Theia Resort 2015

The THEIA resort collection for 2015 was inspired by artist Ellsworth Kelly.  This is an artist whose work is most recognized for its minimalist motifs, angled shaped and use of color.  

Designer Don O'Neill went back to basics by using Kelly as muse.  The artist's work was required study for anyone taking color theory in art school.  As you can see, it was a fantastic basis for any designer forming their own view on graphics and choosing their palette for a collection.

Art critics have said that Kelly’s art was influenced by his military background.  They say that his experience with camouflage, construction/deconstruction led to his approach to art.  That may be reaching a bit, but who is to determine the path of any line of creativity?

The resort collection used the bold colors of Ellsworth Kelly's famous works.  The sharp angles are seen in the color blocked seaming.  The patterns found in some of his work are echoed in the woven textured fabric, sequin embroidery or brushstroke prints. 

Beyond the cerebral, Don also designs practically.  The angles of the color blocked seams are cut to be very flattering on the body when the dresses are worn.  This is something red carpet celebrities and customers both appreciate.

Don O’Neill recently dressed Linda Wallem for her wedding to singer Melissa Etheridge this spring.   The happy couple was so pleased with the gown that Ms. Etheridge sang a personal greeting as a thank you.  Hell that beats any card I have ever received!

I personally will make it my mission to travel to any destination posh enough to wear this THEIA 2015 resort collection. It was simply gorgeous.

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Bridal Week: THEIA White - Spring 2015

Ethereal, enchanting, mystical or mesmerizing? THEIA White's Spring 2015 bridal collection was inspired by the Goddess Danu, a legend of designer Don O'Neill's homeland of Ballyheigue, Ireland. 

The mythical Goddesses of Don's ancestors were said to be seen moving across the bay in a "swirling veil of mist".  You can see that muse in the light tulle and delicate lace trailing the brides on the runway.  Flattering mermaid silhouettes are a given for this theme, as are the slinky draped long gowns that look like they envelop a statue.  Hand-embroidered and beaded gowns elevate each dress into art.  

Despite the ancient inspiration, the THEIA collection takes some modern interpretations of bridal fashion.  The silver lace and crystal gown offer an alternative to classic white.  The cropped top and full skirt is a fresh way to incorporate current fashion trends with traditional fabrics.  The short, meticulously beaded dresses are perfect for the bride ready to dance.  Many of the dress backs had unusual, but flattering cutouts (need to show off a tattoo?) 

I have to say, I was also totally in love with the crystal head pieces that worked as a veil alternative.  The elegant flower bouquets from Fleur de Pascal were given a luxurious upgrade with  crystal floral arrangements that created a dimensional sculpture to be held.  This was also a great way to accessorize a simpler gown for a bride who isn't comfortable with a big and showy frock.

 Sure, you can be a princess on your big day, but why stop there when you can be a THEIA Goddess? Beautiful job Don O'Neill!


Photos by Craig Bannerman

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THEIA White - Fall 2014

Happy St. Patrick's Day! THEIA and Don O'Neill is Ireland's most celebrated designer.  His bridal collection for 2014 was breathtaking and fresh.  I love the updated twists on traditional wedding looks that were pretty and feminine, but still perfect for the classic bride.

The Goddess-like hooded cape was a great alternative to the expected veil.  One gown had an interesting, almost sporty neckline of lace.  THEIA's signature delicate laser cut petals embellished a fairy light gown.  A trumpet skirt hem revealed a rich tulle ruffled back train.  If the long white gown really isn't your style, an intricately embroidered tunic and satin pants was a great option.

Not into white? There was a group of gorgeous gold dresses for divas who like to shine down the altar or red carpet.

What I love about Don O'Neill's THEIA gowns are that they are flattering and accessible to bodies of all types.  Sure, tall thin models are wearing them on the runway, but many of the looks have stretch, hide and accent key areas and also built to accommodate structured undergarments.  Celebrities like Gabourey Sidibe recently looked like a queen during the Oscars, Oprah Winfrey also wore THEIA the year before.
Photos from THEIA

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NY FASHION WEEK: Fall 2014 Sketchbook Preview

So what is in store for us in the next 10 days for New York Fashion Week?  A quick survey of my designer colleagues shows that everyone is working their butts off to put together an amazing collection in time for the show.

I love looking at fashion sketches as they show more of a designer's creative process than just how pretty the garment will look on the model.

Desigual's Manel Jadraque found his muse in the magic and curiosities that are hidden within a city.  Son Jung Wan wanted to express emotions in colors like abstract artist Mark Rothko.

Byron Lars is all about seaming and shape in his mad dash party of sketches in the top left.

Angel Sanchez is exploring the duality, quoting Oscar Wilde,  "Every Saint has a past, and every sinner has a future."

Zang Toi was masterfully organizing his lineup this week.  The theme promises to be a glamorous interpretation of 1930's glamour mixing the Orient in Paris.

Don O'Neill of Theia showed some elegant ladies showing their wild side with a pretty leopard print in pre-fall.  The sneak peeks he has allowed us to see for fall 2014 proper are some ritzy gold  deco sequin embroidery and fabulous frocks to come.

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Radiant Orchid: Pantone's Color of the Year 2014

There you have it, the much anticipated Pantone Color of the Year was announced as Radiant Orchid.  The color is a pinkish purple, somewhere between a pastel and bright tone.  Designers of all fields, trendwatchers and creative media have and are influenced by this announcement.

 Is it truly that important? Consider this, business leaders who otherwise have no opinion on color or design have been known to pull their investment from a brand for their lack of the color in their upcoming collections, thinking they are no longer relevant.  Ouch.

Besides the purple/pink color as the hue of 2014, the "orchid" part of the equation is also key.  When scrolling through my photo albums of New York Fashion Week, I found that designers who made this color a key component of their collections also incorporated it into bold patterns resembling tropical florals.

Desigual had huge over-sized painterly blossoms (clockwise from top left).  Custo Barcelona used the color ethnic, geometric prints.  Theia embroidered big blooms in sequins.  Dolores Cortes used it as an accent on a retro styled print.  Monique Lhuillier appliqued flowers in the orchid color onto elegant dresses.  Mordekai had the most literal interpretation, with a model in a purple bikini wrapped in orchids.

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Cherry Blossom Dreams from THEIA Spring 2014

A stroll through the garden to admire cherry blossoms and a dream of Japan inspired Don O'Neill's spring 2014 collection for THEIA.  His NY Fashion Week presentation at the New York Palace Hotel was an exquisite display of traditional embroidered silks  but also modern digitally printed neoprene.

The beautiful motifs were inspired by classic paintings by Hokusai and also the designer's photos from the Brooklyn Botanical Garden.  Bold seams of black, red, white echoed vintage kimono looks and graffiti while palettes of pink and blue reflect the colors of spring.  The Eastern muse is a departure from Theia's European Goddesses of light.  The long sweeping silhouettes or elegant beaded sheaths are sure to show up on the next round of red carpet Goddesses this award season... 

Bravo Don!

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Theia Bridal 2014 - Blushing Brides

Romance is in the air from Don O'Neil's Theia Bridal Collection last week.  The lovey dovey theme was shown in a very pretty use of the color blush pink.  The color was worked in with delicate laser cut petals, frothy tulle, fabric flower embroidery and ostrich feathers. 

There was one gown with a embroidered plaid that was fashion forward and a departure from your typical lacy bridal dress. Don has a great way of designing a wedding gown that is thoroughly feminine, but very modern where the woman looks like she is taking command and strong.  

Not surprisingly, the dramatic bouquets the brides were carrying complemented the fashion perfectly.  Why? They were created by longtime partner and collaborator Fleur de Pascal.  An ideal marriage in every way! 

photos courtesy of Theia Couture 

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