NYFW: Desigual Fall 2016 - Cool Metropolis

On the first day of Fashion Week, our city of New York became fresh thanks to Desigual's Fall 2016 show. Around the world Fashionistas' schedules are always packed with great designers', shows but there is no better city than NYC to unveil a collection inspired by Metropolis.

In a decor made of skyscrapers, the music gives the tone, ultra rhythmic, reflecting vibrant streets as hubs of communication or hearts pumping lifeblood. The first look appears and the runway starts blooming with gorgeous floral patterns, from the long chiffon dress up to the beret! Other looks feature flowers - a joyful pattern typical of Desigual - but mixed with turtlenecks, embroidered on a warm jacket or printed here on an overcoat and there on a matching velvet suit. So flowers will keep us all warm this winter. Flowers again can be found on tights and even on some of the boots heels. I would love these boots, so uniquely Desigual!

With a metropolis as an inspiration Desigual offers plenty of other patterns - its "marque de fabrique": geometric, striped, plaid, tartan, herringbone or abstract with sources in Scotland, Russia, Uzbekistan, Japan or France. I was pleased to see this wink to my home country in the form of lovely berets. These layers over layers of patterns must feel extra cozy, with matching or opposite symbols and bold colors. They create lively colorful silhouettes wearing the colors of life. The models walk fast like busy New Yorkers.

I loved how the coats or overcoats are worn with a belt, like Romans would have done but asymmetric in a new century twist. Worn over a skirt or by itself, or very short with tights. There are very few solid colored looks except for a magnificent white coat or denim, adding more colors to the Desigual palette. Warm colors and embroideries give this collection a very luxurious vibe. My favorite look was an all red model: floral coat with a plaid beret. By the way I adore all the hats in this collection: a yellow plaid hat, a green hat, floral berets and interesting metallic turbans that gave a touch of the 50s. The collection also appeals to the 90s through the music that played, to the 60s with a kind of rock & roll side and it took also from the Bohemian 70s. What makes this show so joyful and optimistic is also the fact that all the models had beautiful smiles on their face and this is part of the Desigual style that I love. LA VIDA ES CHULA (life is cool).

Written by Geraldine Trippitelli of Mazette Media, photos by Mariana Leung

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Desigual Fall 2015 With Chantelle Brown Young

Fashion should have something for everyone. Spanish label Desigual made a statement on their fall 2015 runway at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week with a model lineup that represented a broad range of looks.

Their new spokesmodel Chantelle Brown Young opened the show. She was originally scouted by fan Tyra Banks to compete in America's Next Top Model. She stood out for her unique skin patterns as a result of a condition called vitiligo. While Chantelle was teased as a child, she has the last laugh from the end of top runways this season for New York Fashion Week. She was chosen to represent Desigual because her originality, beauty and multiple colors was in sync with the brand itself. Some of the prints of the collection seemed to be designed to line up with the patterns of her own skin like they were designed just for her.

The other models flaunted wild natural hair and big smiles. The other photographers and I always love shooting this show because the models get to dance and have fun.

The clothing was very cozy with woven, folk art type patterns that had hints of Native American blankets, South American motifs. Other prints echoed painted abstract art. The short easy dresses are perfect for romping around in. The tapestry coats are great to make a statement when the weather gets chilly. Accessories included handbags that matched the prints and hats with big over sized pom poms.

I love that a brand that really tries to appeal to the independent spirit and being unique actually hired a model that embodies that. I found that diversity was not well represented on this season's runways as a whole, but this is one of the few shows that always has international appeal. Keep the party going Desigual!
photos by Mariana Leung

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#NYFW: Desigual Spring 2015 With Adriana Lima

Blooming runway! It was the first official day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.  Desigual's Spring 2015 show was the highlight most of the photographers looked forward to.  The male shooters were buzzing about Adriana Lima who walked the runway.

I have to say, the mother of two brought heat to this catwalk.  The big, bold graphic prints made the tent a hothouse of style.  There were bright florals, engineered geometric prints in their signature rainbow of colors.  There were a lot of easy, short knit dresses that looked comfortable and easy to throw on.  The big slouchy handbags were also made in high contrast patterns.

As loud as the prints were in this collection, they are still wearable for the demure shy gal.  The simple silhouettes are relaxed and can be paired with a solid jacket or cardigan.  The ground color of many of the prints are black or white, which matches a few things most women have in their closet.

Big flower crowns were the accessory of choice, giving a Latin, romantic feel to the show.  The cheeky thought bubbles brought a smile to the audience, ranging from "I need a boyfriend" to "I love photographers".   The finale was a shower of rose petals from the models themselves.

If there is a secret garden where all of these looks live, let me be the first to visit...
photos by Mariana Leung

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#NYFW: Desigual Fall 2014

Barcelona knows how to bring a party! Spanish clothing brand Desigual presented their collection for the second time at NY Fashion Week with another fantastic show.  The label has a philosophy of fun and inclusiveness, a concept that was sold very well by the models on the runway.

This show is quickly becoming the photographers' favorite as the wild mix of prints and colors looks great on camera.  More importantly, the models are given free reign to sashay, dance, vamp and play in front of the lens.  The only consistent look was the gold eye shadow on an ethnicaly diverse group of models.

The huge mix of prints ranged from geometrics, trompe l'oeil and 1960's mod to updated variations of traditional ethnic motifs.  While many of the other designers piled on the fur and cozy outerwear, this collection, designed for a global customer base, looked like it could be season-less.

This label is created by a huge design team that probably couldn't fit on the catwalk.  Instead one of the star models brought out a golden valentine message from the Desigual designers as the finale.

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NY FASHION WEEK: Fall 2014 Sketchbook Preview

So what is in store for us in the next 10 days for New York Fashion Week?  A quick survey of my designer colleagues shows that everyone is working their butts off to put together an amazing collection in time for the show.

I love looking at fashion sketches as they show more of a designer's creative process than just how pretty the garment will look on the model.

Desigual's Manel Jadraque found his muse in the magic and curiosities that are hidden within a city.  Son Jung Wan wanted to express emotions in colors like abstract artist Mark Rothko.

Byron Lars is all about seaming and shape in his mad dash party of sketches in the top left.

Angel Sanchez is exploring the duality, quoting Oscar Wilde,  "Every Saint has a past, and every sinner has a future."

Zang Toi was masterfully organizing his lineup this week.  The theme promises to be a glamorous interpretation of 1930's glamour mixing the Orient in Paris.

Don O'Neill of Theia showed some elegant ladies showing their wild side with a pretty leopard print in pre-fall.  The sneak peeks he has allowed us to see for fall 2014 proper are some ritzy gold  deco sequin embroidery and fabulous frocks to come.

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Radiant Orchid: Pantone's Color of the Year 2014

There you have it, the much anticipated Pantone Color of the Year was announced as Radiant Orchid.  The color is a pinkish purple, somewhere between a pastel and bright tone.  Designers of all fields, trendwatchers and creative media have and are influenced by this announcement.

 Is it truly that important? Consider this, business leaders who otherwise have no opinion on color or design have been known to pull their investment from a brand for their lack of the color in their upcoming collections, thinking they are no longer relevant.  Ouch.

Besides the purple/pink color as the hue of 2014, the "orchid" part of the equation is also key.  When scrolling through my photo albums of New York Fashion Week, I found that designers who made this color a key component of their collections also incorporated it into bold patterns resembling tropical florals.

Desigual had huge over-sized painterly blossoms (clockwise from top left).  Custo Barcelona used the color ethnic, geometric prints.  Theia embroidered big blooms in sequins.  Dolores Cortes used it as an accent on a retro styled print.  Monique Lhuillier appliqued flowers in the orchid color onto elegant dresses.  Mordekai had the most literal interpretation, with a model in a purple bikini wrapped in orchids.

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NY FASHION WEEK: Lacroix Does Desigual Spring 2014

Thursday's Desigual show at NY Fashion Week was the label's first runway production, and it was a doozy!  The catwalk was painted in bright swirls.  Models danced and vamped their way towards the photographer's pit.  A few got in a smooch (one pair had a very passionate kiss).

They wanted to show in New York rather than their home country of Spain because the team felt that NYC was where everything begins.  Master of the bold pattern, Christian Lacroix led the design direction for this collection.  Outside of Desigual's signature graphic prints, you can see the couturier's influence in the big dramatic hats and sleek fashionable dress silhouettes.

What an introduction Desigual made of themselves.  In the past, I passed on shopping this label because I felt the patterns and textures looked thrown together.  However this show, the prints were loud and gorgeous.  The designs on the fabric were worked into flattering shapes and tailored looks that served the prints beautifully.

I love that this show had models that were laughing, dancing and not afraid of looking goofy.  A feel-good fashion show... Now why should that be such a surprise?

Original photos by Mariana Leung

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