Theia Bridal 2014 - Blushing Brides

Romance is in the air from Don O'Neil's Theia Bridal Collection last week.  The lovey dovey theme was shown in a very pretty use of the color blush pink.  The color was worked in with delicate laser cut petals, frothy tulle, fabric flower embroidery and ostrich feathers. 

There was one gown with a embroidered plaid that was fashion forward and a departure from your typical lacy bridal dress. Don has a great way of designing a wedding gown that is thoroughly feminine, but very modern where the woman looks like she is taking command and strong.  

Not surprisingly, the dramatic bouquets the brides were carrying complemented the fashion perfectly.  Why? They were created by longtime partner and collaborator Fleur de Pascal.  An ideal marriage in every way! 

photos courtesy of Theia Couture 

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LAKME FASHION WEEK: Vaishali Shadangule's Ru-Ba-Ru

400 female weavers from Assam collaborated with designer Vaishali Shadangule's spring 2013 collection, "Ru-Ba-Ru".  Using a handcrafted textile called Paat, the signature fabric of the villages of this Indian state, Vaishali restyled them into updated, modern renditions of traditional garb of her country.  Her fashion show was a beautiful representation of someone who bridges the pride of her culture and the contemporary style of her today.

Ms. Shadangule was originally a graduate in science from a small village. Her dreams of working in fashion brought her to Dubai.  Her label has grown in the past few seasons, including projects with retail houses, licenses and her very first menswear collection this season.

Photos courtesy of Genesis BM

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Czar by Cesar Galindo Spring 2013

 Cesar Galindo has been a hired gun for many of the fashion world's top collections.  His own collection for a spring 2013 runway show is a crowd pleaser.

What I learned from his pretty Spring 2012 collection was that he drapes a flattering silhouette, and he knows how to pick his colors were precision.  This formula served him well again this season.  He had flowing maxi dresses in bright solids or graphic black and white prints.  Sunny tangerine, turquoise, yellow, hit all the top spring notes.  Long, draped garments were also forgiving to his customers who wanted a relaxed feel.

Cesar's look is not Earth-shattering fashion forward.  They are simply great looking clothes for a specific customer.  I have to say, the accessory I like the most from his shows though, is the genuine smile he always has at the end...

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Jenny Packham Spring 2013

I love feminine, but modern embellished dresses.  Jenny Packham's collection is what I would wear every day (if it was appropriate).  I know most of the sequined or embroidered frocks scream evening to most people, but I love shiny objects in the daytime.  I don't see why a short sequined dress and a cardigan can't be office wear?

The color palette for spring 2013's NY fashion week show was certainly adoptable by the masses.  Beige, grey, butter yellow, black... HRH Kate Middleton is a big fan.  This is a collection for modern princesses.  Is there anything wrong with that?

photos by David TW Leung

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Rachel Zoe Spring 2013

Bananas? Not my favorite, but celebrity stylist Rachel Zoe presented a collection that was a good representation of her signature style.  Her spring 2013 show at NY Fashion Week sent long maxi dresses and meticulously accessorized models down the runway.

I have to admit, I am not a regular fan of her reality show, though she does get props for being able to rock 6 inch stilettos while being 8 months pregnant.  She shed light on the profession of styling celebrities while bringing the world her own brand of cool California chic to the masses.  Unfortunately very few of those masses could afford her collection, whose price point is on par with the high end designers she pulls from.

As a stylist, coordinated accessories were a huge focus along with the clothes.  There were luxe leather belts, over-sized carryall bags, clutches and an attempt at a fanny pack update.  Floppy hats that are often seen on Ms. Zoe also adorned many of her models with the shoulder length hair that she herself favors.

Overall, her collection had a comfortable vibe that suited her particular lifestyle.  However, with any celebrity-driven label, I question whether or not it was accessible to the fans who aspire to her lifestyle?

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Joanna Mastroianni Spring 2013

This collection of hot house flowers, sexy cocktail dreses, blooming prints and bright colors was not for the shy girl.  Joanna Mastroianni's customer is not a woman who takes no for an answer and demands attention. 

The sexiness factor might balance on the edge of taste if not worn well, bringing to mind successful trophy wives and clever mistresses.  If you have the attitude to flaunt it, these are the clothes to do it in.

I'm really glad this attractive collection was notable on its own merit, rather than the press generated by a front row guest passing away during a show a season earlier. 

photos by David TW Leung

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Josie Natori Spring 2013

Josie Natori has had a great year. She celebrated her company's 40th anniversary with a beautiful book, a museum exhibit in her home country and a gorgeous tropical fantasy of a collection for spring 2013.

The color palette was bright, like the sunny colors of the beaches.  There were a lot of figure-flattering (and disguising) draping and gathers for soft silhouettes.  Her signature embroidered details were present in the white cotton sleepwear the designer showed.

For accessories, there were several beautiful fan-like handbags.  Shoes were bright and strappy.  I would love to be able to wear the fresh orchid hairpieces on the models, but they are not for sale and far too high maintenance!

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Carlos Miele Spring 2013

 The idea that New Yorkers don't appreciate colors other than black was beaten down at the Carlos Miele Spring 2013 fashion show.  The Brazilian designer opened his Mercedes-Benz fashion week presentation with a dramatically lit model showing the flying 'wings' of printed chiffon in silhouette.

What followed next was a parade of bright green, yellow, white and black celebration of graphic animal prints.  The silhouettes were very sexy and flattering, but elegant instead of trashy.  As in seasons past, the movement of the soft fabrics looked terrific coming down the runway and made fans of the unruly photographer's pit.

Elegant beading embellished many of the dresses.  Long fringed handbags, sexy cutout stilettos and jeweled belts were the accessories of choice for this designer.

Front row fans included Vanessa Williams, Paula Abdul and my favorite new web fashionista, P'trique...

photos by David TW Leung

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Noon by Noor Spring 2013

Noon by Noor is a collection designed by  Shaikha Noor Rashid Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Mohammed Al Khalifa of Bahrain, making their debut at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. They took common sportswear staples like t-shirts, motorcycle jackets, shorts, skirts and gave them the luxury treatment with the most opulent fabrics they could find like silk chiffon and embellished brocade.

Their aesthetic is one of sleek, minimalist elegance.  The color palette was a shimmering one of gold, pale yellow, sand, peach, copper and moss.  The show certainly brought out the right fans of upscale fashion...Socialites Olivia Palermo and Nicky Hilton were sitting front row.

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Vera Wang Spring 2013

Vera Wang, queen of bridal hopes.  Her Spring 2013 collection at New York Fashion Week was considerably darker than her white-clad brides.  Dark jewel tones of amethyst, forest green, black, mustard, gold and sapphire dominated the somber runway.

The collection was inspired by nature and India (where most of her embroideries are done, fitting they should be acknowledged finally).  Colored lace made its appearance here much like Tadashi Shoji's catwalk.  Monique Lhuillier also used nature as a muse (if they shared backdrops, they could have saved money) .  While there were many beautiful looks, there were a few that just weren't flattering, like the short dresses and tops that looked like rolled off the shoulders and would be continuing downward.  While these shoulders were bared, (I picture Yul Brenner's complaints in that old film "The King and I") others were embellished with luxe crystal and beading.

Was this sexier, darker, slimmer, direction a reflection of the designer's personal life? Tabloids jumped on the end of her marriage and speculated on her relationship with the much younger skater, Evan Lysacek.  While he did not make an appearance at the show, Olympic champion, Michelle Kwan did.

 I noticed cougar was not one of the nature-inspired influences on the runway...so keep on guessing paparazzi.

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Vivienne Tam Spring 2013

The Zen of fashion design...Vivienne Tam's Spring 2013 collection was designed around the 5 elements of Chinese cosmology.  The elements of metal, wood, water, fire and earth were represented in simple geometric shapes like fire triangles, circles of metal, the earth as a square (clearly pre-Columbus).  The New York Fashion Week show was also the debut of the designer's collaboration with TSL jewelry.

I have to say I loved this collection.  There were a ton of looks I was ready to buy.  I always liked this designer's modern, tongue-in-cheek take on traditional Chinese motifs.  This collection did too, but in a much more abstract, non-obvious way.  Layers of silk chiffon on organza in the classic palette of red, black, white.  

TSL is a jewelry chain where many of my relatives bought gifts for me when I got married.  It was also the boutique I went to after a stressful business trip in Hong Kong and needed to treat myself.  They have modern designs and tiny little diamonds to make them sparkly...

Your life may not always have balance, but now your outfit has no excuse.

photos by David TW Leung

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Herve Leger Spring 2013

What happens when a the designers of multiple labels are incestuous? BCBG Max Azria clearly crossed teams with Herve Leger's spring 2013 collection.  The color palettes were similar in the black, cream, cafe brown and grey.  The prism-like prints and contrast color block details were similar in both collections.  Envelope clutches was the key  handbag statement in both runway shows as well.  Cut shape leather vest/corset/belt accessories were seen on both catwalks.

Is that to say I didn't like what was on the runway? No. There were plenty of looks I liked at both Herve Leger and BCBG, I just couldn't tell you which was which.

One of the big reasons that Herve Leger looked too much like BCBG was the near absence of their signature elastic band dresses.  They had a few skirts with it, but don't fix what isn't broken! Red carpet celebrities and statuesque fashionistas count on those dresses to squeeze them into a va va voom body.  They were the Spanx of cocktail dresses.  What are they going to do now?

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Byron Lars Spring 2013

I have made no attempt to hide that Byron Lars is one of my favorite designers of all time.  His New York Fashion Week presentation was small and intimate in his showroom.  They bring everyone who works with them into the family.

For spring 2013, the designer brought his signature sculpted silhouettes.  Supremely tailored pieces with intricate seaming details, mixing materials and fabrication techniques for a luxe bohemian feel, laser cut and crochet.  The Byron Lars is not meant to take herself too seriously, even if the clothes she is wearing are seriously constructed.

The reason I personally buy so many pieces of from Byron is that they are built to support and flatter the curviest of women (no matter where your curves happen to be).  Everyone from Kim Kardashian to First Lady Michelle Obama flaunt his edgy/elegant chic.

Photos by Mariana Leung

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Michael Kors Spring 2013

Michael Kors is an America fashion icon.  He was a Parsons School of Design mentor long before his witty/wicked critiques dominated on Project Runway.  His Spring 2013 collection for New York Fashion Week was a textbook lesson in what we were taught in school as classic American sportswear.

As a fashion design student in the 1990's, the Parsons program had a very specific focus on coordinated, marketable sportswear, which was the basis of 7th avenue success. Colors should be paired with patterns that were easy to understand, every separate should be wearable with multiple other options. the school prepared you to be employed with large apparel corporations, and succeeded for the most part.

Michael Kors' spring 2013 had exactly those elements of bright, primary colors, stripes, coordinated separates, easy to understand. this explains his success in the days of 7th avenue and probably why he continues his success. There was a certain mod vibe to it which reminded me of the 1960's advertisements and sketches we studied in fashion history (hence textbook lesson).

Under the Tim Gunn program however, Parsons seemed to produce more innovative designers who were ready to strike out with their own vision. Labels like Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang, Cushie et Ochs never set out to work for the big guys and succeeded. The message though, it certainly doesn't hurt to learn from those big guys.

Photos by David TW Leung

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Farah Angsana Spring 2013

Couture for pageant queens and drama queens. Farah Angsana's New York Fashion week show was a gorgeous parade of gowns.

The Designer showed in New York from Zurich, via an education from London after growing up in Indonesia. It's no surprise that Farah designs for the jet setting woman. Colors were bright and warm, with oranges, chartreuse, blue, yellow. There were some large florals patterns and dimensional embroidery and beading. Each look was its own star, but not exactly a cohesive collection as a whole. I suppose this makes sense if most of your clientele is custom. In fact, Ms. Angsana is mostly known for her bridal work.

These gowns are the kind I used to dream of wearing as a child when I grew up. That hasn't changed.

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Custo Barcelona Spring 2013

Barcelona is the land of complex prints, at least according to designers/brother Custo and David Dalmau.  The label's New York Fashion Week show had a terrific palette of bright purples, greens, red, yellow, well, a bit of everything.  There were interesting fabric treatments and embroideries as the label is known for, including one leather, gladiator-type mini dress.  Feather and fringe gave movement to the embellishments.

In the shoe department they took chunky and platform heels to new heights.  Dainty they were not, echoing prints and colors from the clothing.  The best accessory for this season though were LEGS.  Legs were shown off in short skirts, high/low hems, leggings and skinny pants.

The mythology of the brand is that the brothers conceived the collection on a motorcycle trip.  The Southern California vibe and their psychedelic colors are a huge hit overseas, more so than stateside.  Maybe all of us uptight Yankees need to get on whatever "trip" they did...

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Libertine Spring 2013

In a world of big brands, how many designers are still artists?  Johnson Hartig of Libertine still paints, crafts, embellishes with his hands.  His fashion show at Pier 57 for New York Fashion Week reminded me of performance art of Downtown New York's past.

Vintage clothing pieces were embroidered, multi-colored paint spots was a running theme.  Gigantic papier mache cuffs embedded with large crystals was a popular accessory.  Mass production is definitely not a part of this business plan.  When my colleague Mdivani Monroe interviewed Hartig, he described everything from current politics, his friends and abstract nature as his inspiration.  I got the impression that he was probably one of those hyper children that used to have to be tethered to the playground in younger years...

Early champions of his work included Anna Wintour and Karl Lagerfeld.  Perhaps they saw in him an idealistic idea of fashion still being an art for art's sake  while they of all people know it is not true in their own circles.

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Richard Chai Spring 2013

Happy spring separates were all over the runway of my fellow Parsons alumni, Richard Chai at New York Fashion Week.  The clothes were breezy, light and very wearable.  The skirts were short and flirty for women.  The jackets and pants were slim and comfortable, but not skinny.  

The color palette of cream, grey, sunny yellow, ice blue and beige was easy for anyone to adapt.  There were some pretty silver embellishments on tees and matte/shine elements to other pieces.  Pretty floral prints that tied in all the colors worked for most women, though it felt young and fresh.

This collection isn't avant-garde, it was just friendly and likable.  What you would want a spring collection to be.  Best of luck Richie!

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NY FASHION WEEK: Rebecca Minkoff Spring 2013

Rebecca Minkoff's show at NY Fashion Week was a tribute to iconic photographer Slim Aarons from the 1960's and 1970's.  Styling details took nods from art, fashion and interior decor of that era.

The sporty looks on the runway however, remind me quite a bit of my childhood in the 1980's.  The dropped shoulders, the prints, the jackets, pale blue jeans and shorts were what I remember seeing in the suburbs. Cheery floral prints and ombre shirts mixed with retro lace prints and scarf patterns.

The Rebecca Minkoff Mini-Mac is quickly becoming a modern iconic handbag.  There were plenty of purses to choose from at this show.  Mini-macs were offered in woven basket textures, large envelope clutches and smaller pouch bags had domed stud embellishments.  The designer also offered lots of chic options to outfit your tech gadgets like your iPad.  The large MAB bag hasn't gone away, they came in updated colors or finishes.  Pop contrast colors also accented traditional handbag shapes.

Full runway slideshow:

photos by David TW Leung

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