NYFW: Evan Hirsch x Goodwill

Designer Evan Hirsch brought sustainable fashion and high end thrifting to his first show on the official CFDA calendar. In his second collaboration with Goodwill, he demonstrated how previously owned items can be used as raw materials for art and couture.

Each of his key looks was inspired by a popular category on the ShopGoodwill website. For instance, Lego sets remain a special category unto themselves. Hirsch took the block concept and interpreted it into a jeweled embellishment pattern to upcycle a former Joseph Abboud suit.

A hand-painted hooped party dress was a collaboration with art students of Art Strong NYC, where they were given individual panels to transform before coming together in a cohesive look.

Lots and lots of jewelry can be counted on to be found at the stores an online. Hirsch took mixed pieces, bags of pearls and vintage lace garments to createe this bridal look. The embroidery alone took him over a week.

With sustainable style in mind, this fashion collection was never intended to be manufactured en masse. Instead, Evan Hirsch is reducing waste and creating one-of-a-kind statement pieces meant to be treasured or collected like art. 

Slow, second-life styling may not be a lifestyle people will adapt to overnight, but Hirsch has made a great pitch for it.

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NYFW: Zang Toi Fall/Winter 2025

Zang Toi invited everyone at NYFW to board the Orient Express. The backdrop referenced the legendary train, and the collection evoked the romantic old-school art of slow, luxurious travel around the globe. The runway show was intimate, elegant, and refined, reminding me of the sophisticated salons of yesteryear.

The key colors were intense sapphire blue, jet black, and emerald green. Texturally, there is a lot of shine in the leather, silk, shimmery embroidery, or jeweled details. Zang Toi uses the most luxurious Loro Piana cashmere and silk velvet, so the customer experience of ordering a gala piece from this collection must feel like being fitted like an exotic royal. The difference is that Zang Toi is one of the few designers who make pieces in-house in New York City. 

One motif I particularly loved was the jeweled phoenix. Symbolically, the phoenix in Asian culture represents the feminine, good fortune, and harmony. In other cultures, she represents strength, fire, perseverance, and rebirth after an arduous trial—all empowering messages we need right now.

In a time of turbulent history, it was a treat to escape to faraway locales through fashion. The best collections will do that. 

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NYFW: Richerette x Care Bears Fall/Winter 2025

Stroll on by with that Care Bear Stare. Are any of you old emough to remember that phrase? I remember those cartoons as a kid and those soft, plush embroidered bellies. A redeemed Club Kid creating a collection that evokes childhood nostalgia for a new era is the perfect collaboration. 

The super bright pastels, playful silhouettes like new variations of bubble skirts, craft-embellished denim, polka dots brought a big smile to my face. Richie Rich and his Richerette brand always does.

While each runway look may be a bit extreme for day to day, especially if you are at the age where you were once a club kid, you can remind yourself that the catwalk is never meant to be taken literally. When you look at individual garments, they make fun statement pieces paired with your practical, quiet luxury staples. Having a pop color or bubble skirt peek out from under a blazer is that bit of inner child you need to resist the corporate "adulting" we're all trying to avoid. 

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NYFW: Malan Breton Spring 2025

 Leather for spring? I don't know why designers often offer it only in the fall. Malan Breton showed exquisitely tailored leather evening wear in ladylike pastel shades. The seaming and corseting details were incredibly flattering for any female form. Breton's Savile Row training showing itself. The theme of the collection was "Betrayal, Revenge & Hope". 

There were plenty of gowns in traditional evening wear fabrics, also in the sugary pink and rosy pearl greys, but also a pop of citric yellow. Of course, sophisticated black is an easy sell for customers every season.

In some cases, it was a LOT of dress, even for the professional models. A few struggled with the long tapered silhouettes or had to carry the enormous skirt down the runway. One model continually toppled over in her heels. If the pros are having a hard time, how are the rest of us mortals supposed to navigate such fabulousness?

Malan Breton always shows a glamorous collection that evokes old-school elegance that is increasingly lost in today's world of athleisure and streetwear. The Project Runway alum has also been an accomplished filmmaker as well. His autobiographical film "A Journey to Taiwan" was a moving tribute to his roots and creative process. He debuted "Je Suis Mona" a documentary featuring his muse/model and philanthropist Elton Ilirjani, winning the Trailblazer award at the NYC International Fashion Film Festival.

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NYFW: Naeem Khan's Wicked Spring 2025

Are we excited about the Wicked Movie? Naeem Khan's Spring 2025 collection was a tribute to both witches and the movie musical. It is the most anticipated movie for the holidays and muse to the most fashionable promotional tour this fall.

The NYFW fashion show was staged at the ornate Angel Orensanz center on the Lower East Side. The dramatic venue was the backdrop to intricately sexy gowns inspired by "Elphaba" in black or emerald green. Embellishments included jet beading and re-embroidered lace.  Dresses for "Galinda" included flowing chiffon, sheer pink, and angelic ivory. Embroideries included tulle petals, silver feathers and shimmering beading. 

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NYFW: Zang Toi Fall 2024 Pays Tribute to His Brother See Luon

NYFW Fall 2024 was a season of deeply emotional collections. Last night, Designer Zang Toi's fashion show served as a celebration of life for his beloved brother, See Luon. A beautiful rendition of "Amazing Grace" was sung at the end of the runway. At the same time, the House of Toi family gathered on the runway with roses. Show guests and models were personally invited to pay tribute as well. You may have read my previous runway reports of Zang Toi shows and how they are loved by the photographer riser. One of the many reasons the House of Toi is devoted was the famous curried chicken sandwiches, often handmade by See Luon himself to nourish photographers who often waited hours to shoot the collection. 

Tonight's riser was a reunion of longtime press corps photographers, many of whom traveled to the city from far away to shoot this show specifically after skipping many other designers for NY Fashion Week. 

 The collection itself took inspiration from vintage Parisian glamour. Long fishtail gowns in velvet, luxurious brightly colored furs, sparkling jeweled details. The palette was a romantic black, red, hot pink, and rich orange. Motifs of roses were woven throughout in prints and embroidered appliques. The daytime looks had graphic prints with the same color palette and ladylike vintage silhouettes. Beauty-wise, deep red lipstick, and a red accent in the slicked-back hair was the season's look. 

For anyone who doubts that fashion design can be meaningful or therapeutic, just sampling Fall 2024 collections should answer that inquiry. I want to think that See Luon was watching the show from above, loving the gorgeous work that he supported and inspired, and saw a room full of people there to appreciate his contribution.

Photos by Mariana Leung

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NYFW: The Blonds FUEGO

The Blonds brought the heat to the Starrett Lehigh runway Saturday night. Their collection, FUEGO, was a tribute to Latin culture, the fiery, the strong, and the stylish figures who inspired them. Design-wise, this manifested itself into dimensional flame appliques in snake patterns and metallic leather and crystal-encrusted details. 

The Blonds as a label is not for day-to-day lifestyle wardrobes. They are one-of-a-kind statement pieces favored by the biggest entertainment icons like Beyonce, Lady Gaga, and Miley Cyrus. You need charisma (and some strong muscles) to carry off any of these larger-than-life looks. You need a hefty budget for the handmade pieces, but consider it an investment for your worldwide tour. 

If you were a nightlife fixture in the 1990s, this aesthetic would seem familiar as a muse. Legendary club divas like Diane Brille and drag queens were in the audience, as well as entertainers like Becky G.

The hair and makeup of course had to be on the same level. I watched the wigs, which were as sculptural as the clothing, being built up backstage. I have never seen winged eyeliner ready to take flight more than the models on this night.

Watching this runway, I felt nostalgic for a time in New York when going OUT was a production. Sure, a chill night at home is appealing, but I miss when the process of getting ready was as much fun as the destination. The Blonds will forever capture that era.

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NYFW: AdoreMe's Romantic Takeover, Plus, Ashanti!

Are you ready for romance? AdoreMe's inclusive lingerie collection opened and got NY Fashion Week off to a sexy start. When this brand first came on my radar, I was impressed that it claimed to have over 60 sizes. As a technical designer, fitting intimate apparel is already tough, let along for an extensive range of sizes as they claimed to offer. 

I first tried their offerings in 2020 when I was a different size. I tried them again in recent seasons. I am not proportional, finding bras particularly hard to find. I must say, for their cute, themed collections, cut-outs, straps, etc. Their fit was spot-on! Their prices are reasonable, which is another tough thing to do for detailed lingerie. 

While many companies claim to be inclusive in their sizing, they don't show that in their marketing. This runway appeared to show models that flaunted their full range of sizing in all shapes with great attitude. 

The lineup was divided into three moods, with the design director narrating the runway in the style of "Bridgerton". The first was ready for Valentine's Day, the second had a more tropical palette, the final group had a bridal theme. 2023's bow trend was going strong as the top accesory for hair, bras and butts.

As a surprise, the fashion show closed with a surprise performance by superstar Ashanti. The glowing singer slayed the stage in a sexy leather outfit and jewel-studded microphone. The entire crowd joined in singing with her in the after-party. 

Happy Valentine's Day!

Photos by Mariana Leung

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NYFW: Custo Barcelona SS24

When I think of SPRING 2024 collections from this past NY Fashion Week, Custo Barcelona's SS24 runway was the first to come to mind. The sunny rays of yellow, sky blue and statement shades from the runway are exactly what I needed on this frigid, snow-filled week. I am looking forward to warmer, brighter days, hopefully in the coming weeks! 

Many of the looks were breezy, sheer and flowing. While I shiver here in the show, I daydream of these Custo Barcelona outfits on the beach boardwalk in warmer times. I always loved this brand's mix of patterns and color. This spring, the design details also include sexy cut-outs, continuing a popular trend from recent seasons. Also, some sparkly embellishments accent daytime looks. While the silhouettes are can be more relaxed, the designer wanted to make sure that casual, athleisure is a thing of Covid past. This label has never been for the wallflower, and that's what makes is so fun. Bring on the sun!

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NYFW: Ashlyn So Spring 2024

Ashlyn So is proof that talent and age are not exclusive. She has the distinction of being the youngest designer to have shown at NYFW. Her inspirations run deep, perhaps surprising for someone so young. Her creations were a response to working through thoughts around mental health this season. That translated into avant-garde silhouettes, innovative textures, liquid fabrics that could be interpreted in abstract way. The cellist playing on the runway provided a thoughtful, contemplative ambience to the presentation. 

Ashlyn So could be racking up the press mentions for her designs and age, but more impressively, her work as an activist is what she is remembered for. Her collections are reactionary to issues like anti-Asian discrimination and #StopAsianHate. Another recent collection for Paris cited Asian icon Bruce Lee as muse. She is as comfortable taking a bow on the runway as she is speaking at the United Nations. 

I can't to see what else Ashlyn So has in store for us next on the world stage!

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NYFW: Dur Doux Spring/Summer 2024

It is September and hot and humid as hell. It would take a stellar collection and event to get me to wander out in the thunderstorms. and the Dur Doux show Saturday night was it. Mother and daughter designers Cathy and Najla Burt presented "Sous-Marine" a collection that pays tribute to the delicate marine life of their native Florida. 

Dur Doux has been a label committed to sustainable practices and this season features eco-friendly Italian knits fabrics certified by OEKO-TEX.

The reds, pinks, and golds evoke the corals, flamingos and sunsets. The body-conscious silhouettes are the best of beach-worthy glamour. 

I will always be a sucker for any fashion label that brings family together. Just look at that hug from the finale!

All photos by Mariana Leung

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NYFW: NARDOS Spring 2024

Are you looking for Venetian-style couture by way of Northeast Africa, via Texas, then New York? Nardos Imam's gorgeous collection was presented at the St. Regis Hotel on Friday. Bright spring colors, like a vibrant garden of flowers, took center runway. Nardos is already beloved for her bridal collections. The luxurious gowns of Nardos Spring 2024 were inspired by Venetian architecture, Murano glass and large, luscious blooms. You could see this influence in the sculpted, expertly draped dresses. As an embroidery designer, I loved the dimensional embellishments from crafted appliques, beaded, sequined accents, 3D flowers and threadwork lemons. 

The bright pink is obviously a hot color still following the Barbie movie. Some of the silhouettes evoked iconic movie looks, like the pouffy dress that evoked Sabrina. 

I don't know why you don't see more color on brides; each look here would be lovely to get married in. More appropriately, Hollywood red carpets should be filled with Nardos looks. 

When looking at the accessories, how much do you love the floral crowns integrated into the hair? That puts all of the bows and other hairclips to shame.

Take a trip around the world in a gown from Nardos. Why not?

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NYFW: Richerette Fall 2023

 

Do you have nostalgia for 1990s nightlife? Richerette debuted at NYFW in Brooklyn.  Former Club Kid Richie Rich was the prince of NYC after hours decadence. He parlayed that to a coveted fashion label, counting celebs like Paris Hilton and Kim Kardashian as ambassadors. The spectacle around his fashion shows changed the culture of "celebrity fashion label" in making the designer the focus over the clothes.

So now, almost a generation later, what does this once notorious figure do to make a comeback? Do you produce the same thing, hoping to chase a scene that no longer exists? Is there a demand for club nostalgia? Who are the fans and customers for the new collection? 

Naming Richerette instead of reviving Heatherette, Richie Rich is bringing in name recognition while letting you know the brand is more personal and not exactly the same.

As someone nostalgic for 90s club culture, I was selfishly a tad disappointed that the brand and the man matured (even if I didn't LOL). The clothing paid tribute to the nightlife icons of who inspired Richie Rich. Think Bianca Jagger, Debbie Harry lounging about at Studio 54. However, 1990s fashion nods like lacy babydoll dresses, neon pop colors and iridescent sequins were all over the runway. The clothing itself, when they were skimpy thongs, was merchandised well for the real customer, one who are the designer's contemporaries now. The collection is far from corporate, but imagine those original club kids, now adults, still looking for a party.

Does the Richerette brand have what it takes to go the distance? I would love to see where the label takes us in the next few seasons and who the customer base ultimately will be. After the pandemic, everyone is looking to head out again, and this collection, is what you want to wear.

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NYFW: In Earnest, Byron Lars Spring 2023

 Welcome back to NYFW! Starting off with In Earnest, Byron Lars Spring 2023. Designer Byron Lars brings things back to being an independent atelier with partner Sheila Gray. His beautifully textured fabrics mixed artfully with floral prints, and corset detailing with comfort make this collection so crave-worthy. 

In a post-pandemic world, we are all still trying to figure out what our personal style is now. There are sporty, leisurely elements in this collection for those who are still clinging to the work-at-home wardrobe. However, the athletic components are there for comfort, but the execution is very glam. Embroideries, sparkling embellishments, lace, but all with some stretch and flare. Each individual garment was a statement garment. Every dress, skirt, short, and top had a romantic element for spring but could be worn with practicality. 

The muse for this season was vintage Harlem glamour. You can see the inspiration in the silhouettes and styling. All you need now is to listen to the jazz as you dress.

For an accessible piece that displays their artistry, I always love the fashion illustrated t-shirts. If you're not ready for that dramatic dress, their tees are a canvas for their style that you can pair with jeans.

Anyone who is a longtime reader already knows how much I love this brand. Byron and Sheila are the best of this industry and I'm so happy to see the collection thriving.

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Zang Toi Fall 2020 - New York New York

New Yorkkkkkk! Zang Toi's fall 2020 collection brought all the glamor home this season with a tribute to NYC.

Toi's NYFW shows are usually a classic, escapist fantasy inspired by jet setting destinations. Classical music, big band, aristocratic soundtracks often accompanied his elegant runways.

For fall 2020, his muse is his adopted home of New York. While the clothing was no less luxurious, it had a distinctive, urban, sharper, almost grittier appeal?

You could hear the change before the first model with a thumping contemporary soundtrack, beginning with Jay-Z's now-iconic New York duet with Alicia Keys. It continued with other rappers who expressed their love for Gotham, only ending with Frank Sinatra's New York, New York, for his final bow.

The day looks had chic shades of gray tweed, black, representing the elegance of the Upper East Side of Manhattan. The architectural looks gave way to lots of black (the unofficial uniform of the NY fashion set) paired with ultra-bright pop colors like red, fuschia, purple, green, blue inspired by the Downtown art scene. The color palette brought me back to the urban glam and polished looks that dominated billboards in 90s New York.

Most stunning were the looks incorporating the New York City skyline with intricate embroidery and beading.

Zang Toi has been somewhat controversial the past few seasons by having members of the Trump family as guests and having Rudy Giuliani sit front row for this show. While I can't vouch for his politics, Giuliani WAS mayor of the city during one of its most difficult times. 

In the previous season, the show was held at the Women's Republican house, which made non-Republicans uncomfortable. Zang expressed how Ivana Trump was an early supporter of his business, as well as the rest of the family, and he wanted to show his appreciation of his opportunities, politics or not. 

Here is where I learned a lot about diplomacy from Zang Toi: As an immigrant and employer of immigrants, he made a point of having all of the guests stand for the Malaysian national anthem, in a room of barely concealed MAGA hats. The collection that year was of traditional Malayasian silhouettes and textiles, giving guests an instant education on another culture whether they liked it or not. Third, while the Republicans stocked their seats with GOP trophy wives, Toi likely brought more diversity and inclusiveness from HIS guest list (like me) than that building has ever seen, forcing everyone to mingle and socialize.
As a designer, you can choose to ignore all politics. You can choose to design your collection and make the clothes an instrument of political messages (like Pyer Moss). You can choose to make your presentation an expression of your beliefs like Naeem Khan. Zang Toi, as a designer chose a fourth option, to use fashion as an occasion to bring disparate groups together to appreciate something together, the beauty of style.
I plan on voting and urge everyone who cares about their fellow human beings to vote. We all know which party and which candidates do and don't care about people from their actions and words. Keep it classy. Keep it kind. Make Zang Toi and his beloved New York Proud!

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Sukeina Fall 2020

I love discovering new labels. Sukeina is a favorite of supermodels like Naomi Campbell and Natalia Vodianova. The glamorous statement looks are the creation of Senegalese designer Omar Salam. Like me, he is an alumnus of Parsons School of Design. His resume before launching his own label include Sonia Rykiel and Christian Lacroix. 
Salam's Fall 2020 collection brought in neon brights, bright pastels, and primary colors. Luxe details included embroidery on sporty mesh. Voluminous ostrich feathers brought high drama to this runway for his evening looks.

origami folds

For Sukeina day looks. The suiting and tailored looks sported a signature pleating detail with origami folds. These were a great way to elevate "work clothes" from utilitarian to wearable art. 

I'm looking forward to seeing what comes next!

Photos by Mariana Leung

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Pornhub x Namilia Fight Asian Stereotypes at NYFW

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Badgley Mischka Fall 2020

This is the week of romance for NY Fashion Week. The Badgley Mischka Fall 2020 collection was exactly what I wanted to see ahead of Valentine's Day. There were my favorite fabrics of velvet and silks. There were tons and tons of opulent embroidery on long sweeping gowns. Big pouf sleeves are all over the runways I have shot so far and continued here. Most of the silhouettes were very curvy, with a mermaid or trumpet silhouettes. The shapes were generally slim, with no giant ballgowns. 

Look at this elaborate embellishment. I am drooling. There were big chunky jewels used. Also, fabric flower appliques, handmade, cut, torn, and then stitched. In the world of fast fashion, it is decoration like the pieces in this collection that separate luxury from the masses. 

Do you see this beautiful headpiece? This was the signature accessory of the Badgley Mischka fall 2020 collection. There were several variations of this jeweled, beaded vine-like headpiece that wrapped around the back of the head to frame the pulled back topknot hairstyles.
The designer duo is clearly gunning for the red carpet and gala crowd here. They deserve it.
Which is your favorite look?

Also on Ms. Fabulous:

The Blonds Present the Mummy

Naeem Khan's Human Family

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