#Menswear Nautica Fall 2014

Did Nautica’s Black Sail Fall 2014 collection finally find its identity? I’m kicking off my menswear week coverage with one of my career alma maters.

For many years, Nautica did not seem to know where it wanted to be in the market place after VF Corporation took the brand over from David Chu. While I was employed there, there were efforts to make it preppy and sophisticated.  It dabbled in the more urban aesthetic towards what their expensive (but inconclusive) market research told them. Should the brand stay true the nautical theme?  Did it really boil down to Father’s Day promotions at Federated owned department stores? 

Their fall 2014 collection might have found their way. Branding the show under the “Black Sail” heading was smart in signaling a different intention without alienating the traditional buyers.  The outerwear offerings, one of the brand’s strongest products, had a great lineup of high-tech puffers.  Even working with the design team, I always loved all their little details, functional and design alike.  The fur collars had a bit of luxury, the sleek surfaces gave the fabrics more of an edge.  There were a lot of cozy knits, a category that was always under promoted for Nautica. They had a good balance of sporty and outdoors-influenced looks (the frozen forest prints rocks). The slimmer fits of the tops and pants worked well for the city guy who works for the weekend.

photos by Mariana Leung

I love the diverse model casting; Design director Christopher Cox always had a good eye for models.  I remember in the early days, the merchandisers always observed that the bestselling colors for the masses were red, navy and yellow. It doesn’t sound very sophisticated, and the majority of those dollars might have come from the off-price channels. However, those colors were worked into the fall 2014 show in a sophisticated way in richer, darker hues and better fabrics in pop colors.

Here’s to Ms. Fabulous giving a shout-out to my peeps.  You all deserve a bonus.

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Schiaparelli Couture Fall 2014

Welcome the return of the "Italian", Schiaparelli Haute Couture.  The whimsical atelier made its return to the Haute Couture shows after a 60 year hiatus (not counting collaborations with Lacroix and others).

Designer Marco Zanini was tasked with updating the collection for modern times.  The label’s signature “shocking pink” was incorporated into a long gown or floor length swing coat.  Elsa Schiaparelli’s love nature motifs were seen all over this group.  There were ivy and leaves in the jewelry.  Hand painted prints included beautiful, but tongue-in-cheek urban animals like pigeons, squirrels and rats.  Flourished embroideries and dimensional embellishments are trademarks of the brand, but very contemporary in this collection.

The built up shoulder was a classic Schiaparelli shape, being used to elongate and give a Hollywood femme fatale look to many of the sleek, full length silhouettes on this runway. 

Fur was used in oversized handbag clutches.  Glycerine treated feathers were worked together for a bolero that emulated monkey fur.  Hats took the form of vintage shapes like feathered caps and turbans.  There were gravity-defying sculptures and even a luxe birthday party hat.

I love seeing the spirit of Elsa Schiaparelli back in today’s fashion scene.  Is it a little wicked of me to wish that Marco Zanini would prank Karl Lagerfeld to restart the Chanel/Schiaparelli rivalry? 

Photos courtesy of Schiaparelli Paris

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Canadian Designer Spotlight: Hilary MacMillan

Happy Canada Day my fashion peeps!  I thought I would introduce you to another Canadian fashion designer this July 1^st.  Hilary MacMillan is a relative newcomer to Toronto Fashion Week.   Her Fall/Winter 2014 was her second appearance at World Mastercard Fashion Week.

Her collection is sourced and manufactured locally and designed in Toronto.  Hillary and her sister Lindsay MacMillan also own a popular accessories boutique Elle Hardware in the trendy neighborhood of Queen West (Hubby and I always love to shop this area when we visit).

The family connections don’t end there.  For her inspiration this season, Hilary MacMillan looked to her Scottish ancestry as her muse.  The birds, tartans and hunting culture may be from the Highlands, but they are also very much a part of Canadian heritage as well.  The first Prime Minister of Canada was a Scottish gentleman named Sir John A. MacDonald.  I only know that because my high school was named in his honor, and I saw tartans everywhere.  Also, history textbooks had old black and white photos of Canadian fur trappers.

The graphic illustration print of pheasants is both elegant and whimsical.  It works really with the sleek suits and sheath dresses.  The traditional tartan pattern is used in updated fashion silhouettes, giving it a fresh look.  The fur accessories, whether it is the over-sized handbag or neck wrap, has a raw, unfinished pelt quality.  Instead of the polished glam collars of other collections this season, the pelts look like they were freshly hunted, reminding you of where they came from.  I like that idea.  If you DO choose to wear fur, why shy away from its origin?  It is kind of like the farm to table idea in cuisine, but applied to fashion. 

On this great Canada Day, get to know your design talent up North.  Hilary MacMillan is a fashion designer to watch!

Photos by George Pimentel

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Byron Lars Fall 2014 & Giveaway

It is the most stylish summer ever.  Designer Byron Lars presented his fall 2014 collection to editors and fans in an intimate event at the Pratt Institute gallery Tuesday night.  Models Ashley, Minyoung and Sheila J. modeled some of Byron’s favorite looks from the season. 

Most of the stylists and editors who attended were already big supporters of the designer judging by the number of women who wore Byron Lars to the event.  Author Lauren M. Bias wore a metallic pieced sheath and director Sidra Smith wore a twist front laser cut coral dress to the party.

Julep and Bluffa Jo cosmetics provided some rich hues in nail lacquer to complement the colors of the collection, while Mizani hair products helped to glam up the models’  do’s. 

The Byron Lars team truly pampered party guests as they nibbled on Pop Chips and gourmet bits from my new Garment Center favorite, Café Kabila.  The Moroccan influenced fare had mini bastilla pastries, sliders and brie tartlets with cool mint tea.  Make My Cake bakery from Uptown Manhattan provided rich cupcakes and brownies in the gift bag.  There are certainly a lot of cupcake makers in this town, but I watched a model (whom I have never seen eat, let alone touch sugar) inhale two cakes in about 30 seconds.  If that’s not a testament to their tastiness, I don’t know what is.

Are you looking for post-party indulgence? The Upper East Side spa Sphatika offered guests pampering services with a special discount.  If you love Byron’s designer glasses, you can shop for your own with a 3D virtual try-on experience from DITTO who gave out give certificates. 

A personalized gift from Byron Lars was a soft scarf made especially for the fashion party that was printed with his sketches of the collection. 

Now, I wouldn't tease all of you with these goodies if you didn't have a chance to get them for yourself!  Byron Lars is offering up the VIP gift bag from the event in his “Designer for a Day” Challenge.  Style the paper dolls with your version of his looks and submit by noon on June 26, 2014.  Good Luck!

 Photos by Mariana Leung

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Academy of Art University - Fall 2014

The Academy of Art University premiered their thesis collections by 13 student designers during NY Fashion Week. Since 2005, the institution has debuted the collections of their students and recent graduates. Five of the collections shown were collaborative efforts between students from the Fashion and Textile Design program. Eight collections were presented, both in womenswear and menswear.

Each collection had a unique point of view, representing the designer’s personal esthetic.

The first collection to hit the catwalk, and my personal favorite, was the design collaboration of the Dynamic Duo of Jaci Hodges (Fashion Design) and Nisha Hanna Btesh (Textile Design). Jaci was inspired by the prints and fashions of the late 1960’s. She credits the television show, “The Brady Bunch,” for the patchwork style in which she mixes quirky patterns and textured fabrics in the collection. Nisha was inspired by the Japanese felting technique called Shibori. This technique is used to create sculptural effects on fabrics like wool adding just the right handmade touch to the 1960’s inspired collection.

Superb collaboration…BRAVO ladies!

The mood and emotion of the photography collection, “Beauty in Decay” was the inspiration for the menswear collaboration by Frank Tsai (Fashion Design) and Andrea Nieto (Textile Design). Andrea created printed textiles for the collection inspired by personal struggle and raw emotion. The result was  head to toe layered looks in distressed fabrics printed to appear tattered & worn. The design collaboration was a perfect balance of artistic interpretation in wearable designs and fabrics. 

Arijana Kadjdic’s, Fall 2014 collection was a balance of masculine silhouettes and designs peppered with feminine details in elegant fabrics. Arijana who was inspired by the women in her family, particularly her grandmother, which have nurtured her through out her life. The coats were constructed in luxurious wool fabrics like mohair and alpaca. Pants, constructed using the finest silks, and, dresses in french lace, were hand dyed and beaded to perfection. A color palette of muted pale blue & grey, embellished with beads, and crystals, sparkled under the lights.

The next womenswear collection was the design collaboration of Flora Cervantes (Fashion Design) and Lori Solem (Textile Design). Flora’s designs come from her fascination with the environment, specifically, the sites, sounds, and gritty textures of the city. Lori found inspiration for the fabrics from twisted shapes in nature and industrial textures. The collection was filled with oversized coats, printed maxi dresses, and skirts, and latex treated cotton canvas rubberized jackets. The collection was modern and fresh, while staying true to the original inspiration. 

Earnest Haung (Fashion Design) and Hong Ni (Textile Design) collaborated to create a womenswear collection, inspired by the city of Hong Kong, travel maps, and Ariel photography. The collection was modern and clean. Leather and wool coats were shown over printed pants and shirts. Oversized mesh tanks, vests, and jackets, added texture and dimension to printed pieces. The standout piece of the collection- (Look #6) Leather and wool green printed coat, layered over a long printed shirt, paired with slim pants.

Elizabeth Castellon’s (Fashion Design) Fall 2014 menswear collection was inspired by sculptures, futuristic architecture, and sportswear themes from the 1930’s. She chose to work with leather, wool, and traditional upholstery fabrics for her collection. Her color palette consisted of dark mahogany, various shades of browns, beige, and navy jacquards. The overall look and feel of the collection, can be best decribed as Howard Hughes (Aviator) meets Gordon Gekko (Wall Street).

Jasmine Gonzales (Fashion & Knitwear Design) Fall 2014 womenswear collection, was inspired by the idea of peoples and cultures coming together and joining as one. Jasmine’s collection was all her from start to finish. The designer hand-made the yarns, hand- dyed the velvet knits, and hand-knitted many of pieces in the collection. Jasmine’s hand-knit oversized pieces were influenced by the design on the famous Faberge´ Egg.

The last collection to be presented was the last designer collaboration of the show. Mingyu Du (Fashion Design) and Joseph Khawane (Textile Design) collaborated for their Fall 2014 womenswear collection. Mingyu was inspired by the mod fashions of the1960’s and chose unique materials like army tents, parachutes, and cotton canvas to create the garments. Joseph was inspired to develop textured fabrics with dual purposes. The color palette of the collection was influenced by military camouflage. Shades of green, brown, and grey, were dominant through out the collection.

Well-done students…I am sure we will be seeing great things from you in the future!

Article by Elaine Fioravanti, publisher of bestdressedginger.com, Photos courtesy of Randy Brooke

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Custo Barcelona Fall 2014

Do you see fur in your reflection?  Custo Barcelona's Fall 2014 collection at NY Fashion Week was an abundance of both.  Bold reflective fabrics in loud artistic prints were paired with brightly colored fur, also in patterns and color blocked.

Custo Barcelona has already proved season after season that they are the leaders in the pattern and mixed fabric mash-up.  They went for the extreme this season with the shiniest and furriest.  The runway looks aren't for everyone, and they do hint how to pull their louder pieces off in every day life.  The looks were worn with solid black tights or solid black tops.  Urbanites who normally wear a lot of black can easily incorporate one bright statement piece for the day without feeling self conscious.

The vintage wayfarer-style shades many of the models wore seemed to indicate they knew exactly how bright or reflective their outfits were.  Blunt bangs and straight cut hair had a futuristic, utilitarian vibe. Custo Barcelona girls are no wallflowers in any century.

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Vivienne Tam Fall 2014

I absolutely love Vivienne Tam's Fall 2014 color palette.  The blue, dark red, steel, teal and purple are all the hues I want to see when the weather starts cooling down.  The inspiration for this season's collection was a mash-up of 1970's glamour the cave paintings in Dunhuang, China.

Can you see it?  The Chinese medallion embroidery and crocheted dresses echos some of the afghans of the 1970's but in much more sophisticated colors.  The plunging necklines and sexy slim gowns had their roots in the disco chic dresses of the decade.  Smocked peasant blouses were given a contemporary interpretation by being made in rich bold colors and more tailored placement in the smocking.

The cave reference is a little tougher to discern.  There was a cream ground print that at first glance looked abstract, but you see that has highly stylized, ancient motifs with a painterly effect.  The old frescos in the caverns had animal imagery, which were blown up into bigger graphics in some o the bolder prints as well.  There were a series of marbleized patterns that looked they took their muse from Italian marble papers popular as liners for posh leather-bound books of the era.

Handbags were an important presence this season.  Several of the purses had a structured, square shape that reminded me of my own mother's handbags in 1970's.  They had the shaped handle or colorblocked details.  Some had the square shape, but softer, shinier finish.  Some had a shaped flap that reflected the Chinese motifs in the clothing embroidery.  This was a great collection of bags that complemented the clothing well, but still stood on their own.  

I love that Vivienne Tam always executes the modern East meets West aesthetic in a fun, not-literal or cliche way.  There are too many non-Asian designers who cop to stereotyped, tired Chinoiserie ideas.  Vivienne Tam has shown us a more evolved, much more interesting way to go.

photos by David TW Leung

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Byron Lars Fall 2014 Lookbook & Interview

Do you need a preview of what I will be wearing this fall?  I am fitting and shopping the Byron Lars Fall 2014 lookbook this week.  The fabulous Byron Lars, is being honored at the Pratt Institute Fashion show + Cocktail Benefit tonight with the Fashion Visionary Award.  He is a designer who is beloved by many celebrities for his fantastic fit and impeccable construction.  His success was not easy. It came with hard work and tough lessons along the way.  The new class of fashion designers can learn a lot from his wisdom:

Ms. FABulous: What are your favorite memories of studying fashion in school?

Byron Lars: I can't believe I'm saying this because, I'm pretty sure I didn't see it this way back then but looking back, my favorite part of studying fashion in school was pulling all-nighters by stowing away in the lab, hiding from campus security by turning out the lights as they made the rounds. 

This was the only truly focused stretch of time that I remember having to really get your hands in the work and keep them there...well till sunrise anyway.

Ms. FAB: What is one piece of advice that you could have used at the start of your career that most people don’t tell you?  

B.L.: What ever that might have been would more than likely have sent me running for the hills because, many of the realities of this and any industry I would imagine need to be revealed at a point when it's too late to turn back.  I guess Winston Churchill said it best, "If you're going through hell, keep going.".

Ms. FAB:  What advantages do this year’s fashion school graduates have that they should take advantage of?  

B.L.:  Every fashion student should take full advantage of as many internships as they possibly can (even if that only ends up being only one) to make their first professional contacts. 

Of course this means that you need to give your absolute all every day while interning.  This might even mean being relegated to running for coffee and little else BUT, if that ends up being the case, make absolutely sure that each and every cup of coffee you deliver is hot...unless of course it's ice coffee. 

Doing a great job without complaining will get you noticed in the best way by somebody which may just lead to your first paying job in the industry.    

Ms. FAB: In a tough industry or job market, what would you tell a frustrated fashion designer as part of your pep talk?

B.L.: We'd never have any sweet delicious lemonade without the sour lemons required to make it, right? 

So often, it's the struggles incurred during the toughest of times that summon and rouse the muse in ways that no other state of being  ever could.  The business of fashion is by nature mercurial but never more so than it is now, so these times are about adjusting ones thinking to become ever more responsive to the many rapid fire changes occurring daily.  

Ms. FAB: Thank you Byron Lars!
photos by Noah Chen, Mariana Leung

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Angel Sanchez Fall 2014

"Dark Innocence" the fall 2014 collection by Angel Sanchez was inspired by women who appear demure to outside world, but pray for divine power to control their forbidden dark desires.

The result was a collection of modern silhouettes with sharp lines and leather details that verged on futuristic at times. The powerful yet sophisticated collection was anything but demure.

The collection opened with a series of edgy designs in a dark color palette of black with touches of gunmetal. Leather paneling, pleating, and details added texture and interest to the all black ensembles. A micro pleated leather shift dress shined like liquid metal on the catwalk. The darkness of the collection gave way to a lighter palette of gold organza, lurex tweed, emerald and sapphire jewel tones, and white wool crepe.

Details like high cut geometric necklines, open backs, and color-blocked seams, gave the collection by Angel Sanchez its signature futuristic style. A-line tops with were paired with tailored trousers for day to evening looks, and capes attached to dresses and gowns added drama to the collection.

-Reporting by Elaine Fioravanti of Best Dressed Ginger, Photos by David TW Leung

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Toronto Fashion Week: Vawk and Alleles Collaborate on Prosthetic Style

 What is the latest trend in intricately designed prosthetic limbs?  That is not a style update I expected to see at World Mastercard Fashion Week.   The VAWK fall 2014 runway was one of the most inspirational shows I have seen in a while on many fronts.

Designer Sunny Fong collaborated with competitors from a design contest, Ryan Palibroda and McCauley Wanner of Alleles Design Studio.  They proposed a beautiful, functional (and affordable) alternative to the more awkward, flesh colored limbs that current amputees had as an option.  The result was a cutting edge design was a piece of art that could be proudly shown off as the most stylish of accessories.

The chic black creation complemented the edgy black looks of the VAWK collection itself.  The clothing used a variety of sleek textures and form fitting silhouettes.  There was a bit of Goth influence, with crucifix jewelry and dramatic dark eye makeup.  There was a play on sheer and peek-a-boo cut-outs for a sexy, but not sleazy touch.

I find Toronto Fashion Week casting more diverse than other fashion capitals.  The inspiration for Sunny Fong’s show was a modern interpretation of “1001 Nights” with a mix of Dubai luxury and 1990’s street style.   However, the biggest inspiration for me was their star model Amy Palmiero-Winters.  Ms. Winters is a 41 year old Mom, a motivational speaker, a world record-breaking ultramarathon athlete and an amputee.  She proved that “role model” is the new “supermodel”.

photos by David TW Leung

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Toronto Fashion Week: Mikhael Kale Fall 2014

 A fashion collection around folded napkins?  Mikhael Kale's runway show at World Mastercard Fashion Week was allegedly inspired by the manipulations of the common serviette.  While other designers may cite artful origami or something more philosophical as their muse, Kale kept it real.

The clothing itself was far from simple.  You can see the multiple folds and creases in the intricate embellishments of his looks.  Many played on contrast and sheer fabrics.  Some were used as trim while more dramatic folds were built into the structure of the dresses.  The most successful looks were the ones that echoed the brightly colored marbleized prints in the pattern of the appliques.  Less successful was the one dress that looked like an overwhelming pile of fushia stuck to the front of a too delicate organza shift.

 A grouping of heavily studded looks that had overlapping or asymmetrical seams added a darker, punk element to this catwalk.  The designer directed the stylists to keep the faces pale with exaggerated, irregular eyelashes.  The models wore clunky silver soled shoes with wide black straps that did not complement the more elegant aesthetic of the show.

Mikhael Kale is Toronto's own budding designer star.  Luxe retailer Holt Renfrew wants his looks as well as international pop divas like Jennifer Lopez.  The designer has clearly mastered upscale looks, but also offers a more affordable line to stay accessible to all.  What a great start from the North!

Photos by David TW Leung

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THEIA White - Fall 2014

Happy St. Patrick's Day! THEIA and Don O'Neill is Ireland's most celebrated designer.  His bridal collection for 2014 was breathtaking and fresh.  I love the updated twists on traditional wedding looks that were pretty and feminine, but still perfect for the classic bride.

The Goddess-like hooded cape was a great alternative to the expected veil.  One gown had an interesting, almost sporty neckline of lace.  THEIA's signature delicate laser cut petals embellished a fairy light gown.  A trumpet skirt hem revealed a rich tulle ruffled back train.  If the long white gown really isn't your style, an intricately embroidered tunic and satin pants was a great option.

Not into white? There was a group of gorgeous gold dresses for divas who like to shine down the altar or red carpet.

What I love about Don O'Neill's THEIA gowns are that they are flattering and accessible to bodies of all types.  Sure, tall thin models are wearing them on the runway, but many of the looks have stretch, hide and accent key areas and also built to accommodate structured undergarments.  Celebrities like Gabourey Sidibe recently looked like a queen during the Oscars, Oprah Winfrey also wore THEIA the year before.
Photos from THEIA

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Carmen Marc Valvo's Dark Lady - Fall 2014

 The Lady Noir...Carmen Marc Valvo ran a dark, dramatic runway at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.  The walls were black, the runway was black and then most of the collection was also black.  If you are a New Yorker, this ratio seems about right.  With spots of deep red and sapphire blue as contrast and metallic gun metal for shine, this was a palette that Manhattan ladies undersand.

One of my first internships in fashion was with Carmen.  I recognized his signature slim long silhouettes, embroidered textured fabrics and coordinating toppers.  He chose a slimming colorblock technique of a contrast piece from the bust down to the hem.  Embellishments of metal sequins and pewter fabric appliques were highlighted down a bodice or framing it around the armhole.

The styling gave it a more Downtown edge.  Severe eye makeup and brows with nude lips were paired with short or pulled back hair topped with an adapted mohawk.  This looked great on some models, a few however, had an ironic femme-toupee look.

I have to believe that the women in Carmen Marc Valvo's life must be strong.  Most runway models are disturbingly thin, but the ladies from this show sported some sculpted arms. It's quite possible that it was the cut of the dress that displayed the "guns" to such advantage.  If that's the case, I'm all in.

Photos by David Tak-Wai Leung

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Fashion as Art: Dennis Basso Fall 2014

For his Fall/Winter 2014 collection, Dennis Basso was inspired by great contemporary American Artists. Basso channeled his creativity and designed a cohesive collection of walking works of art.

Dennis Basso’s career in the fur and fashion industry spans 30 years. He is known for his glamorous eveningwear designs and luxury fur pieces. The designer has been a staple at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week since 2007. He continues to build his huge celebrity fan base and client roster with each new collection. Fans of the brand include Giuliana Ransic, Penelope Cruz, Mary J. Blige and Nicole Kidman. It came as no surprise to see starlets and socialites seated front and center, dressed in the designer’s latest creations.

Basso’s signature style was evident from the moment the first model stepped onto the runway. The collection started with a gorgeous black & white story that evolved into a collection rich in vibrant jewel tones. Basso used a variety of fabrics including hand-painted duchess satin, Georgette, lace, tweed, leather, and fur. Fabrics were hand painted, beaded, and embroidered. Furs like sable, lynx, chinchilla and fox, were dyed in coordinating colors like garnet, sapphire,  and amethyst.

The double-faced brushstroke gowns in white, sapphire, and Bordeaux, were the standout looks of the collection.  The collection was refreshing and modern with options appropriate for any age. Dennis Basso's collection is one that can turn an unknown actress into a celebrity fashion icon!   

-Elaine Fioravanti, Guest blogging from Best Dressed Ginger.

Photos by David TW Leung

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Venexiana Fall 2014

For her Fall 2014 Venexiana show, Kati Stern treated guests to a veritable feast for the eyes. The impressive 68-piece collection was a showcase of glamorous stunning gowns. There was literally a dress for every red-carpet occasion one could ever need. The atmosphere inside the pavilion was enhanced when an unexpected mix of punk music played as models paraded down the catwalk in one-of-a-kind gowns.

Extravagant gowns were draped in lavish fabrics like silk charmeuse, crepe de chine, silk chiffon, velvet, and taffeta. In a variety of colors that included light lavender, lilac, seafoam, gold, blush, and black, dresses were adorned with crystal accents on necklines, shoulder straps, and belts. Gowns in vintage prints, with lace overlays were embellished with sequins and beading, and paired with fur vests and jackets, to reflect the glamour and style of the 1930's.

The most popular styles in the collection included halter, one-shoulder, strapless, backless, and V-back styles. You may think it would be difficult to wear one of these dresses, but Kati Stern creates an infrastructure for every gown to support the wearer and protect the integrity of the delicate fabrics.

Hollywood starlets’ of the 1930's inspired the make-up and hair. The Alcone makeup team captured the drama of that era with a smoky eye, heavy lashes, light eyebrows, and burgundy lips. Philip Pelusi and his team from Tela Beauty Organics, created beautiful faux braided pieces that were fastened on top of the models head, like crowns. The effect resembled a halo around the head. That looked like a cross between Rapunzel and Princess Leia.

 Now, if only I had a gala or red-carpet event to attend!    
- Photos and article by Elaine Fioravanti, Best Dressed Ginger

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Anna Sui's Opium Den - Fall 2014

Vintage Chinoiserie and 90's Bohemia mated on Anna Sui's Fall 2014 runway.  The dark berry bow-lips and bobbed haircuts were reminiscent of old 1930's 'beauty" advertising.  Bright prints in Anna Sui's signature purples.

The soundtrack with retro racial stereotypes could have been considered highly offensive.  I suppose in Anna Sui's hands, it was meant to be an ironic poke at them to demonstrate how this collection was intended as a twist of traditional Asian motifs.  The contemporary take on Asian motifs theme has always been done very well by Vivienne Tam, I guess Ms. Sui wanted to give it a try.

Some of the looks were pretty and will no doubt have her hardcore fans drooling.  Her flea market look from the brand's inception is still consistent now, forever trying to capture the club kids and hipsters of the designer's youth.  However, the entire run of NY fashion week was filled with rich, luxurious furs, so the cheaper, fake fur qualities on this runway looked poor in comparison.

Much more successful were the accessories on offer.  Anna Sui's color blocked seamed footwear and handbags were a lot more fun.  The long, orientalist ornamental necklaces could give a dramatic look to any simple outfit.
Photos by Mariana Leung

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Reem Acra Fall 2014

Goddesses or femme fatales? Reem Acra sent some sexy sirens down the runway of her Fall 2014 runway.  Curve-flattering dresses were embroidered in sparkling beads in the form of fronds, branches or glittering tiger stripes that wrapped themselves around the body.

A palette of gold, cream, black and silver dominated the collection.  A few red and purple gowns were a bright contrast and sure to be picked up for award shows.  This presentation also had what was clearly the requisite fall 2014 accessory of fur in the form of boleros and collars.  The hair was slicked back and short.  It was more a look of power and sensuality on a grown woman's terms as opposed to girly femininity in a traditional sense.

Don't let the skin-baring, body conscious silhouettes intimidate you.  A collection like this shows how women are great at designing for women.  The embroideries, the strategic draping and style lines are all there in a show of smoke and mirrors.  Much of the embellishments are there to direct the eye to the curves you want to show off.  Well placed pleats are there to disguise bumps in the stomach or hips.  There were a few day looks that had a reversed arched neckline to served to make the neck look slender and slim the shoulders too.

 Reem Acra designs for the Goddess you know you really are.

photos by Mariana Leung

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Mara Hoffman Fall 2014

 Like an Egyptian Queen, Mara Hoffman's models strode down the runway in long, draped silhouettes.  The designer is known for showing ethnic prints in modern colors at New York Fashion Week.  What I never expected to see was so many looks that were solid black or solid white.

Don't get me wrong, the majority of the outfits had patterns drawn from Egyptian motifs, Moroccan textiles and the artisans of North African.  Prints executed in black and white or a rich mix of blue tones, hot pink and even gold.  Long, regal dresses and skirts that bared arms and shoulders up top or through strategic cut-outs through the middle.  The solid black looks mixed sheer and solid or extreme textures as an alternative to Mara Hoffman's signature brights.

Jewelry was simple.  Basic gold bands that were worn at different levels of the arm.  The hair was smooth and combed down.  There was one-off sweatshirt with a tongue-in-cheek camel print that had me chuckling (maybe it will be this year's "owl" trend).

There were loose, billowing caftans and related outerwear paired with pants.  Still, all the skin exposed was a stark contrast to all of the fur and layered looks I observed on other runways.  Then again, North African winters are not nearly as snowy as Northeast winters.  Mara Hoffman was clearly giving those of us shivering in the ice lots of wishful thinking.

photos by David TW Leung

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L.A. Leather: Skingraft Fall 2014

Black was the name of the game at Skingraft’s combined men's and women's Fall 2014 show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Los Angeles-based designer Jonny Cota infused his signature skins into the nearly all black collection, with the exception of two navy blue outfits (paired with black open-toe booties). The looks featured equal amounts of kilts, drop-crotch pants and hoodies.

Cota’s mastery of constructing leather and other thick fabrics like wool and knits, was evident in the intricate and striking construction of the collection’s jackets, skirts and shirts.

Set to the most energetic and loudest music I've heard all week, and in some of the harshest and determined walks I've seen, models came out decked in bombers, blazers, moto and varsity jackets. No skirt was longer than knee-length, but Cota sent enough knee-high leather boots and kitten ear hats and beanies down the runway to combat any confrontation with the New York cold.

Geo-quilt leather, wool and Mongolian skirts never looked so good together. A few pants looks appeared on the runway, in leather of course, and the men looked just as good in their own skirts as the women. I’m looking forward to Skingraft's Jonny Cota's dark, leather-filled fall.

-Niko Nelson
 Photos by Mariana Leung

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