NYFW: Chromat Babes - Spring 2020

All hail the army of Chromat Babes that stormed the NYFW runway last night. This was by far the most inclusive cast of models I have EVER seen at a major fashion show. The incredible diversity and inclusiveness is a mission of this hot swimwear and bodywear brand, not a pandering gimmick that other designers have shown.
Instead of the token few people of color, or single model of non-stereotypical size, the Chromat show truly represented a range of ALL women, gender fluid fans and male allies. The models represented all the sizes the brand sell. The body types had super curvy, athletic, slim, top-heavy, bottom-heavy, short, tall, maternity, breast cancer survivors, mature fashion divas, babies, you name it.
The looks were very body-conscious, showcasing the body lines of every model with pride. There were some fun cage-like accessories made from covered boning. These pieces acted as dramatic framing for some looks as well as some outfits that lit up (see our YouTube video for Chromat).
The inclusiveness didn't stop at the casting. A significant announcement at the show was that the company was changing its business model. They would no longer sell wholesale, opting to sell directly to the customer as a way to make their pricing more accessible to more fans. Chromat only works with fair trade and ethically produced suppliers, so they couldn't compromise on their production price. That is a massive change for a brand and one that won't be easy.
This was another 9 PM show that completely energized the crowd, had guests dancing in their seats. The goodwill from guests, fans, designers, and producers kept the hype going all night. The finale included a performance by Rico Nasty. Rather than the creative head director or financial owner taking the bow at the end of the show, entire teams from different departments took a bow, showing inclusiveness starts at "home."
Bravo Chromat, for showing NYFW and the fashion industry at large it can be done!

All photos by Mariana Leung

Read more >>

Miami Fashion Week: Gottex Swimwear 2017

Gottex is remembered as the elegant show of Miami Swim Week. The models are styled with long, flowing cover-ups that easily double as evening wear. This label always has my favorite prints. The standout patterns included a rich, dark peacock and a graphic animal print that looked like a stripe. Speaking of stripes, there were some great silhouettes where stripes were used to flattering effwct around the body.

While some swimwear is great for partying or sunning at the beach, Gottex looks like it is perfect for striking a pose on a yacht. Design director Keren Gasner has been great at moving the brand ahead with classic sophistication, but updated silhouettes and prints. Simply beautiful. 

Read more >>

Miami Swim Week: Luli Fama 2017

The runway was on FIRE. Luli Fama is one of the crowded fashions at Funkshion Miami because they always open with a bang. For Summer 2017, the show opened with edgy dancers from Black Wine events with Mohawks, flames, and Steampunk. 

The models strutted down the runway with some extra sultry attitude, driving the male photographers on the riser into a frenzy. The teeny bikinis did not hurt. The bottoms were mostly cut with a low rise with delicate ties on the side for quick removal. Tops were cut to complement the curve of the bust. Prints were injected with color in artful patterns both abstract and floral. Cover-ups included slip dresses, cropped jackets, and wraps that were coordinated with the suits. They had a polished look that could take you from beach to brunch.

Luli Fama summer 2017 was another great production. Fans and photographers love them. They make every Miami fashion week a treat!

Photos by Mariana Leung

Read more >>

Nautica Women's Swimwear Spring 2016

We are heading into the tail end of summer (boo). Nautica Women's Swimwear gave us a "City Meets Sea" themed evening at New York's Dream Hotel. Models wearing the label's bikinis and swimsuits posed on top of pedestals and giant inflatable swans in the hotel's tiny basin of a pool. The so-called beach club at the hotel was probably the best representation of an urban oasis NYC has to offer.

The swimwear was simple and sporty. The classic Nautica colors of navy, white and black were used. There was one print that was an abstract beach pattern. The City Meets Sea theme explains why the swimwear cuts look like sportswear. The one-shouldered suit could be worn under a skirt and jacket. Bikini separates could be layering pieces. While the V-necked one-piece suits had plunging necklines and high-cut legs, the swimwear looked like it was actually meant for swimming.

It is interesting to note that their male counterparts from New York Fashion Week Men's had a more flamboyant collection. Their swim shorts had a larger variety of graphics, prints and finishing details. Nautica's strength has always been menswear while their women's lines have been launched and re-launched multiple times.

Nautica Women's Swimwear gave my fellow writers and me a nice little escape from the concrete. If you need a momentary escape to the beach just for an hour, you know where to go.

Read more >>

Suboo Embellished Swim 2016

 Suboo brought the swim style from Down Under. The Australian swimwear brand showed a posh, embellished collection at the elegant Setai hotel in Miami. Bikinis certainly dominated the runway. From the amount of skin on display, the teenier the better.

Designer Sue Di Chio worked rich prints into the fabrics. There were options for the small chested to the underwired tops for fuller women. Most striking was the variety of embellishments and embroidery on these bikinis. There were graphic sequin patterns, 3-dimensional beading in abstract designs or chunky floral motifs.

photos by David TW Leung

Each runway ensemble was additionally styled with dramatic, over-sized statement jewelry. Huge necklaces that doubled as body sculptures or bracelet cuffs. They looked like bigger, knotted versions of the embroidery on the suits themselves. Hair was styled with pop color extensions or long colored feathers. I thought of it as Blue Lagoon chic on acid.

Suboo 2016 was gorgeous, sultry and fun. Bondi Beach in Australia is legendary and I wouldn't be surprised if this collection is the reason.

Read more >>

Miami Swim Week: Maaji 2016 Rhapsody Road

So who is ready to hit the road? Columbian label Maaji brought the most enticing mix of athleisure, active and swimwear to the Miami Swim Week Funkshion runway. I love watching their fashion shows, no other designers commit so fully to accessorizing their looks as this collection.

The designers include Juliana Londoño, Nani Valenzuela and Andrea Gomez. As sexy as the whimsically printed bikinis, shorts and activewear was, it really was meant to carry out a goat road trip. Men (yay!) and women strutted their tanned bodies to project activities like hiking, yoga, tennis, paddling in the cutest outfits you could want. Multi-pocketed vests (like my Dad would wear) helmets, rackets or a backpack bigger than the model were all a part of the Maaji look this season.

The color palette was a bunch of candy colors like floss pink, turquoise, lemon yellow, lime and orange.It was very much a traveller, hippie journey (complete with macrame details) with the quirkiest group of your friends. It all ended with a huge runway selfie with the design team.

The show reminded me of that last nostalgic summer with your buddies before everyone headed off to be an adult. Enjoy the Maaji 2016 road trip!

photos by Mariana Leung

Read more >>

Miami Swim Week: San Lorenzo Bikinis 2016

 San Lorenzo Bikinis brought serenity from Hawaii. Designer Lisseth Figueroa started in Peru before moving to the South Pacific. Like many of the top swimwear labels, Figueroa found the market was missing the South American silhouettes with a Hawaiian sensibility.

The San Lorenzo Bikinis runway at Miami Swim Week was a display of zen. The theme was "Mind, Bali and Soul". The models strolled down the runway with tropical flowers entwined in their hair or carried in baskets for a message of hospitality. The opening look emulated a multi-limbed deity, while other looks carried spiritual symbols.

The suits themselves naturally included many bikinis. Some were barely there, held together with a creative arrangement of ties. My favorite style was the wrap bikini with cutouts on the side offered in solid colors and prints. The prints were a mix of pastel watercolor textures that the zen of rippling water. The star one-piece suit however, was the majestic lion's head print.

The collection was designed for versatility. Tops and bottoms were intended to be interchangeable and fabrics used were often reversible. It's no surprise that San Lorenzo Bikinis has fans in celebrities like Chrissy Teigen, Behati Prinsloo and Kate Hudson.

photos by David TW Leung

Read more >>

#NYFW Georgine Ratelband Spring 2015

It's getting cold  here in New York. I am dreaming of a luxurious resort to spend the frigid months and Georgine Ratelband just returned from one. Her Spring 2015 collection for New York Fashion week was inspired by her trip to Thailand’s posh island of Koh Samui.

Retro jetsetters like Loulou de la Falaise and Bianca Jagger also served as muses for the 1970s global glam. The collection is definitely not for the office. There are a lot of luxe lounge wear with shimmering fabrics that take socialites from beach to the ultra-exclusive nightspot. Think elegant flowing pants and caftans, cropped tops and metallic swimwear.

 Big floppy wide brimmed hats and silk turbans evoked the glamorous movie stars of decades past. My favorite accessory was the surfboard shaped handbags attached with a chic bracelet cuff like a cheeky nod to surfer’s ankle straps. These looks may have been meant for the beach, but don’t look for flip flops on this runway. Every model wore slim, strappy heels.

Georgine is a very young brand. The designer only graduated from Milan’s Istituto Europeo di Design in 2011. Her label was launched when a luxury retailer in Antwerp purchased her thesis collection. The collection quickly gained a following promoting a luxury aesthetic that we would all love to partake…
photos by Mariana Leung

Read more >>

Custo Barcelona Spring 2015

It may be cold outside but for Custo Barcelona’s Spring 2015 collection, the runway was hot hot hot. Designer Custo Dalmau’s goal for the NY Fashion Week runway show was to show off the body.  He succeeded beautifully.

This was not just a sleazy skin fest. It was about the creative use of cut-outs, embroideries, textile combinations, sheer textured fabrics, silhouettes with great cuts. Custo Barcelona as a brand is best known for its bold mixes of patterns and dimensional materials to build a sculptured, if not always “tasteful” in the classical sense.

Metallic prints were combined with laminated laces. Sexy swimwear was mixed with coordinating cover ups. Purses, messenger bags and shoes were designed to match motifs and textures of the clothing collection.

Menswear had a more subdued look, but the women’s catwalk outfits definitely did not have the wallflower in mind. That doesn’t mean anyone should be intimidated by the Custo Barcelona collection. Each piece individually is gorgeous, the intricate work of the combined patterns and fabrications is a great statement garment that can be paired with a more basic staple.

On a gray dreary day, can’t everyone use a bit of color and shine?

photos by Mariana Leung

Read more >>

Belusso Swimwear 2015

Are you ready to tie one on?  That was the definitive detail of the Belusso 2015 swimwear collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim. 

Exaggerated ties were prominent in a majority of the looks on designer Kirsten Ehrig-Sarkisian’s runway.  The super-long ties were swung around from the side of the hips, front cleavage, back muscles, around the neck.  While probably not practical for swimming through coral embedded waters, it does feature a great way to create movement to highlight whatever part of the body you want to draw attention to.

The other signature features of this collection were the pretty vibration prints.  Many of the suits sported beautiful patterns that resembled sound waves.  The abstract, fluid prints were offered in a muted black and grey combination or sweet pastel mix. 

The Belusso collection is Los Angeles based, but the owner clearly loves a lifestyle in St. Tropez too.  There is a focus on luxury for this label.  The cover-ups are upscale lounging pieces often made from silk or fine cotton voile.  Ehrig-Sarkisian also loves to embellish her pieces with semi-precious stones too.  Celebrities from Mariah Carey to Jade Jagger are fans.  In fact, the name “Belusso” is a variation of the Italian words for “beautiful” and “luxury”.

Now, if only someone would take ME to St. Tropez so I can test-drive these styles properly.

Read more >>

MIAMI FASHION WEEK: SUBOO 2015

It's the tough girl from Down Under.  Suboo's 2015 resort collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim was a parade of strong women with an attitude.

There were many variations of bikinis and one piece swimsuits with halter neck styling.  The necklines had interesting twists, straps and wrap details.  I loved several of their bold prints, like a navy, peach, black and white camouflage pattern.  There was a graphic black and white art print and wild floral design as well.

There were a lot of looks using a slick shiny black fabric that gave the appearance of leather.  High-necked severe tops were easily balanced with sexy cut-outs on bikini bottoms.  The leather look, along with the models' fierce expressions gave the impression that this collection would be the most intimidating (fashionable) gang at the beach. 

The Suboo collection is based in Australia.  I'm wondering if the upcoming reboot of Mad Max was an inspiration for creative director Sue Di Chio?  Actually, the aesthetic and movement of modern dance was the muse for this season.  That look of determination on the models actually refers to the discipline of the art.

Nick Irwin of TIGI created the pulled back, high on the crown hair.  Vincent Longo was responsible for the dark eyes and ZOYA created the sharp white manicure on the models.

If you are a beach beauty who does not want to be messed with. The Suboo 2015 collection is perfect for you.

Read more >>

MIAMI FASHION WEEK: Minimale Animale 2015

Smoke, mirrors and rock n' roll.  The Minimale Animale fashion show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim was a good time, especially for all of the male photographers in the pit.  The edgy swimwear collection by Cassandra Kellogg had a minimalist, sexy fetish vibe to it.

While the motorcycle helmets were gimmicky, they established the biker chic vibe she was going for.  The added bonus of keeping your attention on the body and therefore the swimsuit the model was wearing.  The helmets also allowed for the "liberation" of the model's hair and face at the end of the show, where the models could shake out their tresses in spectacular fashion to the cheers of the admiring male fans.

The designer loves her music.  She taught herself how to make swimwear and the brand got its start when she sold her collection at festivals.  The Minimale Animale collection is definitely not for the shy girl.  The skimpy bikinis leave little to the imagination and highlight what little is left.  If you have the rockin' bod to carry these off, by all means, show it off.

Rock on ladies, rock on.

Read more >>

Nanette Lepore's Floating Runway

Frigid NYC has me writing via wishful thinking.  Nanette Lepore Swimwear is my fashion fantasy right now.  Summer is a few months away and Nanette Lepore turned a South Beach swimming pool into her swim style runway.

Ms. Lepore is always a champion of innovative prints.  For Summer 2014, she took a traditional floral and updated by pairing it with an ombre effect and digitally printing it on neoprene.  She also took classic tile inspired patterns and recolored them with bright candy colors against a dark background.  The effect is a collection of sexy swimsuits coordinated with fashion forward cover-ups for partying out of the sand.

Back in New York, Nanette is a hero to the fashion community for her work in keeping the Garment Center alive.  Before following the designer to Miami, I visited the Manhattan showroom to admire pieces that were produced a few blocks away.  She keeps her business in the family too as brother Jimmy is one of her biggest cheerleaders in PR and she always takes a bow with her daughter at the end of the show.

I am now hoping to follow Nanette Lepore Swimwear out of the cold and into the desert... Her collection will be showing in Las Vegas at WWD Magic next month.  I can't wait!

Original photos by Mariana Leung

Read more >>

Nanette Lepore Resort and Swim 2014

We're hitting the last of summer! Locavore designer Nanette Lepore put on two great presentations in the past few months. First, she presented her resort collection of bodies that paired a traditional porcelain print and a contemporary, digitally printed floral into chic rash guard tops and bottoms.

Nanette Lepore's Miami Fashion Week swim show brought us more great prints.  The suits were great, but the long, flowing dress cover-ups and tunics were perfect for beach to soiree dressing.  Unusual color combinations like the apricot tunic and ice blue embroidery was a great way to update basic silhouettes.

When asked if the beach was now the new runway, Nanette replied, "Absolutely! Everyone wants to be able to express themselves and look fabulous no matter what they're doing."

Back in the NYC showroom, I enjoyed browsing through all of the coordinating accessories.  Nanette carries through her patterns and colors into fun, wearable shoes.  The handbags are built with a tech-savvy customer in mind.  The brightest colors of her palette are well represented.

Much of Nanette Lepore's collection is made in New York.  She was one of the most visible advocates for Save the Garment Center in NYC.  Her advice to new designers on deciding to produce locally: "Do it! The costs are about the same and you'll be able to have more control over everything. It's so worth it!"

What do you think of designers who produce locally?  Would that be more appealing to you as a shopper?

Read more >>

Sexy Sauvage Spring 2014

Sauvage's West Coast sensibility brought plunging necklines and teeny bikinis to South Beach.  Designer Elizabeth Southwood creates this sexy swimwear collection out of San Diego, California and showed it at Miami Fashion Week.

In addition to the skin-baring solid colors, 1970's inspired floral prints adorned suits and coordinating pieces.  The cover-up length of choice was a baby-doll length, just grazing the behind.  I'm guessing the California crowd loves to show off their legs.  The overall attitude was of the bombshells of the 70's and Bond girls.

I know that this label also produces a men's collection and was disappointed they were not shown alongside their fashion sisters. Perhaps next season, the models will be paired with a date for the enjoyment of all of us gals in the photographer's pit... 

Read more >>

L*SPACE Statement Swimwear - Miami Swim Week

How do you jazz up the a simple swimsuit into a spectacular outfit? L*Space designer Monica Wise pairs a dramatic statement necklace with it to complete the look.  The swimwear of their  Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Miami show had simple silhouettes but maximum impact on the runway.

Designer Monica Wise draws inspiration from the various beaches of where she lives.  She lived in Florida and now Southern California.  You can see the South Beach muses in the dark, sexy Latin looks of the black bikinis accented with straps and fringe.  They were paired with edgy chain necklaces and black mesh cover-ups.  The West Coast influence is in the group of pastel teal and coral colors with light colored cover-ups that doubled as sun dresses.  Hair was pulled back into twisty braids for all the models (a popular style this week in the heat).

I loved that the models really knew how to work the swinging jewelry when they posed on this catwalk.  As pretty as the swimwear was, this show proved how accessories can truly make an outfit shine.

photos by Mariana Leung

Read more >>

Sexy Sporty Oakley Swim 2014

The true beach warriors hit the runway at the Oakley Swimwear fashion show last Sunday.  While many of the models at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim emphasized the sexy attributes of bikinis (often wearing impossible stilettos) sports stars strutted their fit bodies earned from hard work.

Oakley is the label you wear to play, strive and surf.  This was proven by pro-surfer Erica Hosseini and pro-volley ball player Christal Engle who took on the catwalk.  They weren't pandering to the leering hotel lizards but were sexy and strong by being accomplished athletes.

I haven't been able to personally verify the practicality of the suits in active use, so I can't tell you if they really are sport-worthy.  Style-wise, bright, California colors, simple stripes, classic American shapes defined this collection.

Now, for those who just need their eye candy, here you go:

Now go root for Team USA!
photos by Mariana Leung

Read more >>

MIAMI SWIM WEEK: Gottex Summer 2014

For a dose of European chic in South Beach, look no further than the Gottex show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim.  The luxury swimwear collection was presented on a runway inside the SLS Hotel pool in Miami.

The color combinations of deep blue, tangerine, purple, turquoise and hot fushia made for a sophisticated palette.  The patterns were a mix of bold color block combined with intricate ethnic and art deco inspired prints.  Coordinating scarf prints and cover-ups looked fashionable enough to wear as a your summer soiree ensemble away from the poolside.  The matching scarf was also used to create coordinating jewelry, by wrapping them around big bangles.  (A good tip for any summer outfit!)

The striking colors and patterns from the 2013 were instantly recognizable on fashion week guests this year.  They were being worn as summer dresses at a luncheon right before the show of fashion editors and looked fantastic, proving how timeless a fantastic print can be.

Creative Director Molly Grad has a background designing for Stella McCartney, YSL and Ferre, so it is no surprise that she has brought a couture sensibility to poolside style.

Read more >>