Erin Fetherston From Wildwood Fall 2015

 A small-town girl grows up. Erin Fetherston's fall 2015 collection could have been her biography on the runway. The show was named "Wildwood" after the street she grew up on in a small California town. She left the West Coast to study fashion in Paris.

The looks on the catwalk had sweet floral prints, schoolgirl collars and simple dresses that evoked a naive, rural sensibility. The dresses quickly lengthened into more luxurious fabrics, longer sophisticated silhouettes and closely tailored ensembles. The floral prints graduated to embellished guipure lace. Was this the story of a wide-eyed girl who follows her dreams the City of Lights and succeeds as a top fashion designer in New York City?

Perhaps this was just a collection that mixes elegant options for the evening mixed with  relaxed chic for daytime. Perhaps Erin Fetherston just understands what a woman who has worked hard to make it to the top wants to wear when they know they haven't lost touch with their roots?

photos by David TW Leung

The designer has described her fall offerings as "She's a polished pixie with a downtown edge." The makeup was clean and classic. The hair was smoothed down and pulled back. This woman was showing her confidence without feeling like she has to be over-the-top.

Even the handbags juxtapose the rural and the cosmopolitan. They were dainty, but made in a rustic polished wood, paired with an elegant chain detail that looked like jewelry.

Erin Fetherston is the woman she dresses. That's always a great thing to see in a fashion label. You trust the designer because you know she gets you.

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Georgine Fall 2015

More 1970's glam for fall 2015. Georgine Ratelband's NY Fashion Week show was full of lush, fluffy fur in rich jewel tone colors. Satin, lame and hand-painted velvet made the runway look like a luxurious extension of Studio 54.

The disco styling was extreme with curly hair, epic smokey eye makeup, and dark lips. The color palette was almost Gothic. The accessories included chunky platform heels, big fur clutch handbags in the same hues as the coats and stoles. Jewelry included cuff bracelets and chunky rings.

While the 1970's was a clear influence, the individual pieces of the collection are not as literal. The straight wrap skirts, short shorts, slim silky pants had a contemporary fit and silhouette, The body conscious tops, blouses or dresses may have been styled to look disco, but realistically are more office friendly than the catwalk would make you believe. 

I think that is what most non-industry observers needs to distinguish when they see press coverage of runway fashion. Styling for media versus how the clothes fit into a customer's lives. A talented designer label knows how to straddle both. Georgine is a New York designer who produces much of her collection locally (the home of Studio 54) and also more luxurious pieces in Italy.

The Georgine Fall 2015 collection had all the colors I personally love. The makeup colors were all in my comfort zone too. I personally would love wearing most of these looks during the day, though I also "love the nightlife". 

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Academy of Art University's Class of 2015

What does the future of fashion look like? Despite their busy schedules, top editors flock to the runways of talented fashion students for a fresh look. I found that the Academy of Art University fashion show at NYFW has a distinct aesthetic as other design schools do. 

The strengths of the designers of the Academy of Art University is all in their treatment of textiles. Designer Paulina Susana Romero Valdez incorporated beautiful thread embroideries onto more conservative suiting fabrics and leather. 

The collections of Tam Nguyen, Han Teng, Andrea Nyberg and Kevin C. Smith were all about the different effect of hand dyed fabric. Famaz Golnam, Erin Milosevich and Xiaowei Liu manipulated the fabrics themselves into wearable, draped sculptures that looked perfectly suited to well, suits. Xue Yang and Oom Terdpravat created wearable fashion that collaged different textiles and weights into a cohesive look. Stella Xingyu Hu knitted volume into over-sized menswear sweaters that radiated colors on the runway. Contrasting fabric prints upon prints were put together by the team of Emannuele Ciara Jones and Ghazeleh Kalifeh.

Is fashion art? The tough part about designing a collection at art college is balancing marketability vs. creative innovation. All the details of creating a collection from start to finish is a lot for someone to take on, so the designers that can work in teams are that much stronger. I remember picking out an Academy of Art graduate as my top choice to win when I was helping cast NBC's Fashion Star on their first season. It turns out, she did win. This school has been a staple at NYFW for the past few years and clearly belongs there.

Photos by David TW Leung

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Luxe Rocker Chic: Thomas Wylde Fall 2015

Who doesn't love some posh punk on the runway?  Designer Paula Thomas brought her British rock and roll sensibility and her West Coast biker chic to New York Fashion Week for the first time for fall 2015. 

I was a fan of Thomas Wylde luxurious leather bags with skulls and embellishments for years. I was totally geeked to see the entire collection come to Gotham. For fall, it was all about sweet black and white leather, fur and marbleized silk prints that come from this season's inspiration, oil and water. 

The color palette was simple. Black, white, mustard with various shades of grey, accented with red accessories. Long, dramatic leather fringe was a prominent detail on the handbags, one of the hottest trends through fall. Elaborate jeweled embroidery decorated everything from clutch handbags, necklaces, skirts and sleeves. I love the irregular, organic pattern of jewels to make the embellishment look ragged and not too structured. It is very posh, but not stuffy.

Paula Thomas was once creative director and partner at Julien Macdonald before Givenchy tried to land her. Ultimately, she broke away from both to head West to rock out Thomas Wylde on her own. Edgy ladies like Angelina Jolie and Charlize Theron were already big fans.

Stay Wylde!

photos by Mariana Leung

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Bibhu Mohapatra's Fall 2015 From the Heart

Designers are inspired by many muses, but can clothing come from the heart like other artists? Bibhu Mohapatra presented an emotional collection for fall 2015. Originally, there were pretty motifs of flowers. An early inspiration came from the revolutionary and paramour to many creative souls, Maud Gonne. (She was famed as a lover of William Butler Yeats, Auguste Rodin and Camille Claudel). 

Sadly, while working on this collection, Mohapatra lost his father, and his mourning became a part of his designer's process. The color palette was more restrained. White and black became dominant as white is a mourning color of Asian cultures, black the color of mourning for Western cultures. He took some time off to grieve in India, and he added hues from his home country like turmeric yellow, earthy red and indigo blue. Instead of flowers, the art turned to brush stroke patterns in the prints and embroideries with a touch of feathers.

I truly stretched out on a limb to shoot this show. The photographer's risers were so crowded that the only angle I could get access to was to balance myself on two opposing railings and hope not to dive face down onto other shooters. It was absolutely worth the effort.

The long silhouettes were beautiful. There were furs, refined day dresses and the sweeping gowns Bibhu Mohapatra is known for. You could see the mood was more restrained, more serious, but lovely. I'm so sorry for his loss, but I am gratified that he was able to share his emotions through his work.

photos by Mariana Leung

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BCBG Fall 2015

photos by Mariana Leung

Designers really went back to the 1970s for autumn. The BCBG fall 2015 collection by Max and Lubov Azria was all about groovy knits and folksy embroidery. The color palette had a range of earthy neutral colors like sand and tan. Brighter colors included red, orange, brown, and navy. 

The design team worked the colors into a color blocked patterns, something I have seen from them in the last few seasons. They also worked in some faux fur for when the weather gets cold. Being a West Coast based fashion brand, many of their team probably doesn't see the winter, so naturally, lots of layering was involved to accommodate all climates. There was a lot of thread embroidery that emulated the techniques and patterns the design team saw in their foreign travels. This added to the global nomad hippie vibe of the overall runway. 

I saw less handbags in this show than previous ones. BCBG looks like they finally graduated from the flat envelope clutch to the bigger, chunkier envelope clutch. In footwear, it was all about the tan leather boot. A lot of tan leather boots.

No doubt, NY Fashion Week was all about the 1970s. Some designers went with luxurious disco glam. BCBG Fall 2015 went with bohemian chic. There's a look for everyone in that decade.

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Reem Acra Fall 2015

Another entry into fall's 1970's luxe glam trend. Reem Acra's fall 2015 collection at NY Fashion Week was inspired by the bohemian and Gothic queens of the decade. There were coats and dresses of crushed velvet or lace. The palette ranged from textured blacks to cool rose and metallic silver and gold.

For the most part, hemlines were relatively short. There were a lot of above-the-knee skirts throughout the entire runway. I was rather surprised by this. This collection was made for red carpets. I thought I would see more sweeping gowns. This totally reminded me of being in portfolio class at Parsons My illustration teacher would always come down on you for showing a fall/winter collection with too many bare legs and short skirts.

Photos by David TW Leung

You know my obsession with embroidery. Reem Acra displayed the most gorgeous embellishments of New York catwalks this season. Metallic bullion was mixed with jewels and medallions, then more jewels. It had a very regal effect, like a hippie princess who had run away to Woodstock.

Leather pieces and slick waved hair reminded me of Bianca Jagger as an urban counterpart to the dark flower child looks that Stevie Nicks inspired. The luxurious fabrics of silk faille, velvet, pleated organza, lace and swiss dots lets you know this collection is intended for the jetsetting Bohemian, not the grungy, casual kind.

I found the Reem Acra fall 2015 collection absolutely gorgeous. It had all of my favorite fabrics and so many looks were encrusted with delicious embroidery. This designer was after my own heart...

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Aritzia Fall 2015

Welcome back one of my favorite Canadian clothing chain Aritzia who have rolled South to Soho. Their fall 2015 line-up was preppy and cozy. There were a lot of classic autumn colors like maroon, charcoal, gold and midnight. However, there were muted pastels and creams added as well. 

Aritzia had a lot of traditional wool blends and corduroy that makes their collection practical for work and play. To add more flavor to the mix, were lots of furry textures and novelty knits. 

Short A-line skirts and cropped pants were meant to ease the transition from summer to fall to winter. (Canada's weather is very unpredictable). Warm coats and sweaters were key.

I really like their handbag collection. The structured, faceted silhouettes of their leather handbags always stand out in the store. They updated their purses with trendy colors this season.  Their over-sized scarves and shawls are a favorite of mine. They had more of an ethnic attitude with their rich dyes and patterns. I recently wore one for my (teeny background) role on Netflix's new television show.

Aritzia's fall 2015 collection is not stuffy or formal. Like most Canadians I know, the boutique represents a comfortable but put together esthetic that works for the office, but stylish or relaxed enough for the weekend, even at home. Maybe that's why I like visiting this store. It feels like a trip to see my hometown peeps.

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Aeropostale Fall 2015 Back to NYC

 Your favorite mall store around the country has come back to their home base in NYC. Most of the design team probably lives in Brooklyn or outer boroughs, so it naturally became fall 2015's muse.

There were graffiti inspired prints, photos of the city's architecture, some tribal prints to align itself with the boho vibe. For women, there were cozy sweaters with fringe or crochet tunics (a warm version of Coachella appropriate attire). The "Seriously Stretchy Jean" was promoted for everyone's favorite denim legging option.

Aeropostale is continuing with their collaboration with YouTube star Bethany Moda for feminine, fun fashion. Athleisure for them is as important as ever, with a bigger offering than last season. They had great printed leggings and sophisticated prints for workout tops. There were quilted metallic vests to bring high fashion to the gym.

School's out, summer is in. At least you know you have great clothes to matriculate back to in September.

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Custo Barcelona Fall 2015

We all know fringe is one of the biggest trends by far this season. Custo Barcelona's fall 2015 collection played around with what that meant. Instead of the wimpy, stringy fringe every other designer used in their collections, Custo Dalmau and his design team decided to beef it up a little.

Dalmau envisioned the wide heavy fabric strips that slap against your automobile during a car wash. (That brings to mind the musical number "Sugar Daddy" from Hedwig & the Angry Inch). That resulted in wide, embellished strips on the hems of those fabulous short dresses you see in the second photo. In person, those hems had great movement, perfect for dancing.

photos by David TW Leung

Of course, the signature look of Custo Barcelona is the rich mix of textures and patterns. Plaid was mixed with woolly tweed. Brightly colored woven patterns with a black ground echoed the textiles I often see in South America. Some of the prints I saw looked like inkblots from a Rorschach test. There were big furry collars for both and women.

Accessories were designed to coordinate with the clothing. rounded messenger bag type shapes and carry-all handbags were blocked with matching patterns and textures as the outfits. If your legs are cold in the fall/winter season, the brand is offering up a sort of legwarmer or shoe/boot extender in fabrics that match the clothing as well. It is an interesting item that doesn't quite fit into any specific accessory category.

Custo Barcelona's fall 2015 does loud and busy in a way that looks sophisticated and Euro-chic. Also, I bet you'll never look at a car wash the same way again.

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Mister Triple X at Art Hearts Fashion Fall 2015

Who doesn't like a little kink and fetish to heat up the NY Fashion Week runway? 

Mr. Triple X  opened the Art Hearts Fashion Show with a collection body conscious separates for both men and women that were accented with chains and leather straps. The signature pieces were more accessories that could be worn alone for a sexy club (or night in) look or to add some edge to more traditional fashion ensembles. My friends and family were most grateful for the plentiful eye candy of the male models.

The label is designed by Erik Rosete. He intended his collection to be a  high end street wear line for everyone's inner rock star. He is also one of the founders of Art Hearts Fashion organization which brings together artists, designers and creatives to produce events in multiple cities to benefit the AIDS Healthcare Foundation. Before talent management and fashion, he actually started his career as a mortgage banker. Quite a complex background which no doubt benefits him now.

Like what you see? You can support Art Hearts Fashion and the AIDS Healthcare Foundation by texting "FIGHTAIDS" to 41444 to donate any amount you choose. 

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Desigual Fall 2015 With Chantelle Brown Young

Fashion should have something for everyone. Spanish label Desigual made a statement on their fall 2015 runway at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week with a model lineup that represented a broad range of looks.

Their new spokesmodel Chantelle Brown Young opened the show. She was originally scouted by fan Tyra Banks to compete in America's Next Top Model. She stood out for her unique skin patterns as a result of a condition called vitiligo. While Chantelle was teased as a child, she has the last laugh from the end of top runways this season for New York Fashion Week. She was chosen to represent Desigual because her originality, beauty and multiple colors was in sync with the brand itself. Some of the prints of the collection seemed to be designed to line up with the patterns of her own skin like they were designed just for her.

The other models flaunted wild natural hair and big smiles. The other photographers and I always love shooting this show because the models get to dance and have fun.

The clothing was very cozy with woven, folk art type patterns that had hints of Native American blankets, South American motifs. Other prints echoed painted abstract art. The short easy dresses are perfect for romping around in. The tapestry coats are great to make a statement when the weather gets chilly. Accessories included handbags that matched the prints and hats with big over sized pom poms.

I love that a brand that really tries to appeal to the independent spirit and being unique actually hired a model that embodies that. I found that diversity was not well represented on this season's runways as a whole, but this is one of the few shows that always has international appeal. Keep the party going Desigual!
photos by Mariana Leung

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MONGOL by Bayarmaa Bayarkhuu Fall 2015 Mongolian Fashion

Is the nomad the biggest trend of 2015? Bayarmaa Bayarkhuu is a relative newcomer to the New York Fashion Week scene. The designer launched the brand ten years ago and brought MONGOL from Ulaanbaatar to Lincoln Center.

While Asian manufacturing and Asian designers have long been a major influence over the fashion industry, only in recent seasons have I seen Mongolian fashion as a theme. THEIA referenced Mongolian nomads in their bridal collection; Anna Sui has worked in those influences into their bohemian vibe. Mongolian designer Katya Zol brought dance and a gorgeous collection in Fall 2014.

Is Mongolian Fashion the new trend?

This fashion show opened with a fantastic performance that blended traditional chanting and Dubstep. Who knew the two music genres could work so well together?

Bayarmaa Bayarkhuu referenced many elements of her native country’s costume but re-interpreted them in modern ways, much like Vivienne Tam did with Chinese fashion over twenty years ago.

The designer sourced most of her raw materials in her country.

Long Deel tunics were re-designed in vinyls, metallics or super bright satin. Elements of the traditional garment were also updated as a fitted dress with the sleeves opened in cape-like silhouettes. Sashes were re-interpreted into various obi-like or corset shaped fashion pieces in their own right. Fur, as a staple of Mongolian dressing (it gets cold there!), was used in all sorts of placements as an accent, from cuffs and plackets to luxurious collars with an Old Hollywood look. Knotted trims and contrast borders would be placed in unusual placements or seamed t flatter curves on the body.

photos by Mariana Leung

I have seen Nomad-inspired beaded hairpieces and silver medallion hair accessories on several runways, but the MONGOL runway had the most elaborate. The same beaded techniques were also used in belts. Mongolian jewelry in cuffs and earrings were also styled with the clothes.

Congratulations to Bayarmaa Bayarkhuu for showing us where Mongolian fashion can take us. Good luck and I hope to see more!

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Tadashi Shoji Fall 2015

It was all about celebrating the beauty of flight for Tadashi Shoji's Fall 2015 collection. He expressed his love of flight with two running themes throughout the show. Of course, he did this in the most gorgeous way possible at New York Fashion Week.

 The first theme was interpreted through the mechanics of airplanes. While it was not obvious, the lovely embellishments of beaded circles and brocade lace represented the gears of an plane. This technique was used to accent necklines, straps, and waistbands or as engineered embroidery on a bodice or as a full-length gown.

The second motif was a bird theme. Cocktail dresses were trimmed with feathers. Shredded organza and fur were manipulated to give the look of wings and feathers on other looks. The most beautiful styles were the embroidered appliques of wings and feathers that curved around the body in different ways. There was even a group of styles that incorporated both the birds and plane gears into elegant brocade.

You had your choice of classic black and white or rich jewel tones of amethyst, emerald, and sapphire. While the collection was sexy in a sophisticated way, the dresses have an appeal for those who have a more modest taste or like more coverage. Other designers who show a lot of skin seem to forget that there is a huge customer base who like to leave more to the imagination.

Whatever your preference, Tadashi Shoji's fashion design for fall is ready to fly and soar.
photos by Mariana Leung

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Kate Spade Fall 2015

Have you met the Fantastic Mr. Fox? Kate Spade's Fall 2015 collection was styled in the quirky chic aesthetic that I  love film director Wes Anderson for.

The overall presentation had rustic elements in wool plaid and fur clutch handbags. There was an artsy element in the Roald Dahl inspired sketches along the walls and whimsical colour palettes. There were Kate Spade's signature feminine (though not girly) accessories of hats and gloves with the candy box handbags. The larger carryall purses were either crocodile embossed leather or color blocked. The starring Mr. Fox was featured a leather applique face on bags and sweaters.

photos by Mariana Leung

The retro styling of the clothes themselves did look like they could fit into a Wes Anderson movie. Skirt lengths were either short or Ladylike A-line past the knee. Sweep Peter Pan collars added to the deceptively demure looks with a modern edge when paired with heeled oxford shoes. The bright pink and floral prints looked like they could fit into a painted movie set or out on the streets.

I love that the Kate Spade brand has continued to keep her tongue-in-cheek attitude throughout the years. While personal style is nothing to joke about, fashion should never be taken too seriously.

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Theia Fall 2015 - Exclusive Studio Visit

 I had the honor of visiting designer Don O'Neill to preview the THEIA Fall 2015 collection before much of the world. You can be embedded in the photographer's pit, interview backstage, but nothing lets you see a designer's vision as being in their design studio as they work on the collection itself.

Visiting the design space itself, you can see Don's design process. He started with contemporary Irish furniture designer Joseph Walsh. Specifically, his Lumenoria II collection. Walsh's signature aesthetic are his flowing, sinewy organic lines an naturalistic colors. The table below was a piece that Don O'Neill was moved by when he viewed it at The Salon At + Design Show at the New York Armory this past November. The lines in Walsh's work had symmetries with early 20th century Art Nouveau. The art movement was recognizable for its curved design lines and nature motifs that were popular in interior design, art, jewelry, you name it. Don incorporated all of it in his fall 2015 fashion collection.

photos by Mariana Leung

You can see the elegant curved lines in both the dress silhouettes and embroidery design. He tweaked the classic art nouveau dragonfly motif into a more modern butterfly beading. There is a nod to Tiffany glass in his "liquid glass" fabrication.

The sweeping shapes are incredibly flattering on yes, the "average" woman. It may be hard to believe, but I have always been impressed at how much Don takes (real) customer feedback into consideration when he designs THEIA. The style lines are flattering to the curves of the body. They are often "bra-friendly" or have built in fabric construction to give women some extra support in their shape. He adds little touches like shirring in strategic places just in case you (not just hungry celebrities) some breathing room at their next gala. Just in case you were wondering though, that leather halter dress on the left? Yes, Idina Menzel (aka Adele Dazeem) wore that at the Academy Awards last week.

I love seeing a designer and artist at work. Double bonus when THEIA's fashion collection is one that is attainable and one I can picture myself in for a glamorous occasion. Don O'Neill does it again!

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Badgley Mischka Fall 2015 - Matadors

No bull here. Mark Badgley and James Mischka tapped into a classic fashion designer inspiration of the Spanish matador for their fall 2015 collection for Badgley Mischka. Balenciaga did it, Givenchy did recently (remember Madonna's thong from the Grammy's?)

For this collection, the inspiration wasn't quite so literal. There were a few bright red wool pieces that might have had a matador's cape as a muse. The golden metallic embroidery that was built up around bodices and shoulders mixed with deep red, brown and earthy colors might have taken its inspiration from the embellishment of matador costumes. There was tinted lace in some of the dresses that hinted at the lace accessories worn by Spanish women in the church in centuries past.

Otherwise, the dress silhouettes followed many of Badgley Mischka's signature shapes of the long fishtail gown, corseted trumpet skirt and form fitting column dress. Looks that were more suited to day wear included tailored blazers and skirts from beautiful tweeds or brocades that resembled Spanish tapestries.

I loved the tall bouffant half updo hairstyles on the models. The sexy cat's eye makeup had shades of Amy Winehouse as a muse. The nails were embellished metallic gold to match the gorgeous embroidery. I am really happy to see that the designers did not feel the need to add a bullfighter's montera hat as an accessory to get their theme across. 

There were elegant little clutch handbags that coordinated well with the clothing. Some were beaded, some had chunky jewels. I loved the embroidered cuffs with organza that were worn on the wrist as a bracelet alternative. I think I need to make some of those for myself... 

Badgley Mischka celebrated their 25th anniversary as a brand last season and the guys have been in an even longer relationship as a couple. I'm amazed that two people can have such a long run at work and play and still produce good things year after year.  Maybe they can add relationship counselling as the next extension of their brand.

Photos by Mariana Leung

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