Susanne Bartsch Presents Adrienne Landau's LandauLand

Have you ever considered fur coats stuffy and boring? Shame on you. Iconic fur label Adrienne Landau turned the idea of a fur salon presentation on its head by collaborating with nightlife legend Susanne Bartsch for her Fall 2017 show at NY Fashion Week.

Instead of a standard runway or stationary pedestals, the models gyrated and seduced the guests in an interactive nightclub tableaus. You first approached a sapphic bridal couple on a horse dressed in a tux and white fur wedding ensemble. Next was a surreal vignette with legendary club figure and trans celebutante Amanda Lepore vamping it up as a disturbing Mommie Dearest. Her little fur-clad kids were chic as hell.

Another scene was a giant banana beach, a disco dance floor, a vintage telephone booth and then an entire gallery of performers behind glass flaunting colored fur and elaborate headdresses inspired by South American tribal cultures (see below). Super curvy burlesque Diva, Dirty Martini sprawled across the floor while a bored androgynous model looked on.

Producing a large range of accessories and coats in wild colors was a great way reinvent the fur fashion market. Having a range of body shapes, genders, ages showed the diversity of the customer. Pairing fur stoles with lingerie showed how sexy fur could be.

This Adrienne Landau/Susanne Bartsch presentation was so much fun. It brought me back to my club kid years when I first landed in New York City. If my budget allowed it, I would hit the town tonight in every color of this furry rainbow.

All photos by Mariana Leung

Also on Ms. Fabulous:

Fashion Underground: The World of Susanne Bartsch

Bryan Boy's Furry Tale 

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Son Jung Wan Fall 2016

Korean fashion designer Son Jung Wan has described her craft as the act of putting together a puzzle. Her Fall 2016 collection was about combining new shapes and silhouettes and mixing and matching colors and textures.

The puzzle theme is particularly noticeable in the pieced dresses and fur coats. The high contrast black and white palette was shown with a softer, pastel palette of pinks, cream and pale blue. Dresses had an impressive construction of interlocking details or intricate seaming. The most interesting looks were the fur jackets of different weights and textures. The process of combining different minks was created at the Kopenhagen Fur creative center in Copenhagen. Other materials included range from delicate silk crepe de chine to solid leather or lightweight knits.

In addition to checkered patterns, there were thick zig zag styles of fur both as a trim and big fluffy coats. There were a few coordinated menswear looks. Son Jung Wan wanted this collection to be fun. The title was "Playing With Fashion" and I believe she did have fun in designing it.

On this hottest of weekends, I'm not sure looking at so much fur is helping, but when NYC reclaims the winter, I would love to be wearing Son Jung Wan's Fall 2016. Maybe I can sit down, wrapped in one of the big checkered coats and work on the New York Times crossword puzzle. What do you think?

More from Ms. Fabulous:

FENDI's Made to Measure Fur Salon

Dennis Basso Fall 2016

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Dennis Basso Fall 2016

Do you think fur and beaded gowns are stuffy? Dennis Basso will prove you wrong. The classic fashion icon redesigned his luxurious coats and wraps for a sexier, street-wise sensibility. He took elements of the 1970s trends and created more relaxed silhouettes in his fur coats.

The outerwear looks great with evening wear or as a statement coat over jeans. Today's 'it' girls will no doubt be Instagramming it that way. 

Basso wanted fall 2016 to be romantic, brash. The long and mid-length gowns had beautiful beading. While they were sophisticated, they weren't pretentious. Models looked like they could move or slouch or dance. He wasn't afraid to show some skin. Think Jennifer Lawrence in American Hustle as opposed to the family matriarch.

The color palette had a lot of gold. Burnished gold, pale gold, copper, tawny and the various hues of the animal fur itself. You could totally drag out your hipster grandma and dance the night away in Dennis Basso's Fall 2016 collection. Boogie on!

Photos by Mariana Leung

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Georgine Fall 2015

More 1970's glam for fall 2015. Georgine Ratelband's NY Fashion Week show was full of lush, fluffy fur in rich jewel tone colors. Satin, lame and hand-painted velvet made the runway look like a luxurious extension of Studio 54.

The disco styling was extreme with curly hair, epic smokey eye makeup, and dark lips. The color palette was almost Gothic. The accessories included chunky platform heels, big fur clutch handbags in the same hues as the coats and stoles. Jewelry included cuff bracelets and chunky rings.

While the 1970's was a clear influence, the individual pieces of the collection are not as literal. The straight wrap skirts, short shorts, slim silky pants had a contemporary fit and silhouette, The body conscious tops, blouses or dresses may have been styled to look disco, but realistically are more office friendly than the catwalk would make you believe. 

I think that is what most non-industry observers needs to distinguish when they see press coverage of runway fashion. Styling for media versus how the clothes fit into a customer's lives. A talented designer label knows how to straddle both. Georgine is a New York designer who produces much of her collection locally (the home of Studio 54) and also more luxurious pieces in Italy.

The Georgine Fall 2015 collection had all the colors I personally love. The makeup colors were all in my comfort zone too. I personally would love wearing most of these looks during the day, though I also "love the nightlife". 

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Libertine Fall 2015 - Fur and Pop Art

Contemporary art meets the runway at Johnson Hartig’s fall 2015 fashion show. He has been known to collaborate with the leading modern artists of our time like Damien Hirst, but also working design projects in mass market for Target and Converse. 

Libertine’s Johnson Hartig didn't resist temptation. He pursued it.

Ok, so that’s a poor paraphrase of the tagline from the 2004 film The Libertine. Looking at the designer’s social media accounts, he’s often pursuing adventures across the world. He looks like he is more of a vagabond artist than your traditional apparel entrepreneur. Each outfit on the runway looked like it was pieced together like an art-school collage ( many of his early collections, they were). There are more traditional garments with retro 1960's to 1980s silhouettes that are further embellished with patches, or embroidery, artwork or prints like they were disrupted by an anarchist.

photos by David TW Leung

Fall 2015 of Libertine had some luxurious upgrades. My favorites were the brightly colored mink or fur coats. Dresses and outerwear had embroidered motifs and text to mirror contemporary canvases that I have seen at the MOMA. Other tributes to modern artists included Jeff Koon's balloon dogs, skull faces from The Misfits, Marcel Duchamp's Mona Lisa satire LHOOQ, Andy Warhol's Campbell Soup Cans to name a few. Some childhood pop culture references included the big blue Bumble monster from the Rudolf Christmas special, and the terrific red telephone purse was a nod to an item in his childhood home.

The makeup had the pale, super smoky eye that looked like they were styled by Living Dead Dolls. The hair was slicked and parted down the middle with a contrast pop color down the middle part.

I love that someone still brings an artsy, edgy punk vibe to the established vibe of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. The pricing and the stores who carry this collection may not reflect that, but I like Libertine's attitude all the same.

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#NYFW: Son Jung Wan Fall 2015

Korean designer Son Jung Wan was inspired by MGM films of the 1950's with their romantic fantasies.  The classic Hollywood glamour of rich furs and sequins was at play on the runway. There were tailored jackets and demure pointed collars that were embellished. A silver palette of shimmering celadon green, taupe and silver gave way to Technicolor orange and purple.

The outfits were generally long. Long coats, trousers, and long skirts were meant to be ladylike. Lots of metallic fabrics were used to offset the cozy cashmere coats. Matched sets of boxy silhouettes remind me of the looks of Hitchcock heroines. There were a lot of outerwear appropriate looks matched with tailoring fabrics wool herringbone. 

While Son Jung Wan may have looked to the past as her muse, her collection took a modern approach to pairing textures and fabric. Her finale gave the cutest moment of NY Fashion Week so far when friend and Gossip Girl actress Kelly Rutherford jumped up and hugged her.

photos by Mariana Leung

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J. Mendel Spring 2015 Collaboration with Enoc Perez

The most iconic fashion designers in history are the ones that collaborate with fine artists. Gilles Mendel and artist Enoc Perez showed a distinct partnership on the runway for the J. Mendel spring 2015 collection.

The pair joins the ranks of artist/fashion design pairs like Salvador Dali and Elsa Schiaparelli. The clothing on the catwalk was a wearable interpretation of Enoc Perez’s architecture renderings.  His signature cross-hatched paintings were printed on dresses.  There were highly textured woven/embroidered pieces that expressed the pattern.  Even the luxurious furs that are a J. Mendel staple had elements of Perez architecture. 

Less obvious were the flowing, light dresses that floated beautifully when the models walked.  Some of the simple color blocking or solid colored frocks might have taken the spirit of Enoc Perez’s Shapes artwork. 

The handbags were chic, squared off and stylish. Aside from the colors, they shape or finish didn't correspond to the collection and artist inspiration. 

As Gilles Mendel worked with Perez to collaborate on a collection in tribute to his work, the artist in turn created a book of collages as homage to Mendel’s work. With some fashion collections inspired by an artist, the effect is often great for editorial, or even gimmicky.  However this collection was thoroughly wearable and flattering, regardless of if the customer was aware of the muse or not.  With all of the mass market “collaborations” with designers that water down their aesthetic, I love seeing a true creative collaboration that elevates the work of both parties.

photos by Mariana Leung, artwork by Enoc Perez

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Custo Barcelona Fall 2014

Do you see fur in your reflection?  Custo Barcelona's Fall 2014 collection at NY Fashion Week was an abundance of both.  Bold reflective fabrics in loud artistic prints were paired with brightly colored fur, also in patterns and color blocked.

Custo Barcelona has already proved season after season that they are the leaders in the pattern and mixed fabric mash-up.  They went for the extreme this season with the shiniest and furriest.  The runway looks aren't for everyone, and they do hint how to pull their louder pieces off in every day life.  The looks were worn with solid black tights or solid black tops.  Urbanites who normally wear a lot of black can easily incorporate one bright statement piece for the day without feeling self conscious.

The vintage wayfarer-style shades many of the models wore seemed to indicate they knew exactly how bright or reflective their outfits were.  Blunt bangs and straight cut hair had a futuristic, utilitarian vibe. Custo Barcelona girls are no wallflowers in any century.

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Toronto Fashion Week: Joe Fresh Fall 2014

More fur for fall 2014!  The biggest trend on runways around the world was well represented at the Joe Fresh fashion show at World Mastercard Fashion Week.  The cozy looks showed a very good understanding of the winter weather of the Canadian North.

The palette was earthy, with brown, khaki, green, grey and pops of bright orange.  Fur trimmed hoods, fur vests and heather knits looked warm during the still chilly delayed spring outside in Downtown Toronto.  Funny, the Maybelline beauty team took the cold weather inspiration literally by giving the models a flushed cheek, pale face and pouty lip to look like they just came in from the arctic outdoors.

My favorite pieces were the graphic ones.  Sweaters with snow capped Canadian Rockies, a closeup of a wolf's face were artistic.  There were silk dresses printed with beautiful forest artwork evoking the autumn colors I loved growing up, or the pretty contrast of dark branches against snow.  The look of these pieces from the runway had a much more elegant effect than the highly accessible price point that Joe Fresh is known for.

Joe Mimran and wife (Pink Tartan's Kimberley Newport-Mimran) are the first couple of Canadian fashion.  They know how to capture the shoppers of all budgets and taste.  I have to say I am impressed that these two keep showing their collections in hometown Toronto rather than migrating south like many Canadian brands that have found success across the border. Go Canucks!

photos by David TW Leung

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#NYFW: Badgley Mischka Fall 2014

Animal magetism.  Badgley Mischka's Fall 2014 collection at New York Fashion Week was a luxe display of fur, animal print and earthy colors.  The overall look was suited to an opulent Czarina or Anna Karenina, with metallic beading on gold embellished brocade for the evening gowns.

Richly printed chiffons gave a flowing air to leg revealing dresses.  Big fur hats, cuffs and neck warmers gave an extra level of luxury in the accessory department.  For all of the grandeur, the hair and makeup were low key and naturalistic.  Perhaps this represented an escaped Anastasia on the run?

Award season still has a few red carpets to fill.  Which celebrity do you propose to wear these looks?

photos by Mariana Leung

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#NYFW: BCBG Max Azria Fall 2014

Let the Wookie win.  BCBG's Fall 2014 collection yesterday was all about the fur.  Big collars, big muffs, big, over-sized coats that seem exactly what you would want this week with the impending snowstorm.  For a West Coast designed label, the abundance of cold weather choices were surprising.  Either that, or the design team came to NYC for a visit and was shocked into a reactionary collection.

It wasn't all fuzzy and huge though.  The other consistent theme was the use of wide stripes and color blocking.  The looks followed a very cool palette of blue, burgundy, black, tan and white on long silhouettes.  None of the outfits were very fitted.  I guess that saves a lot of time in fittings and pattern-making if nothing needs to be precise.  Maybe that is the secret to producing a fashion collection when you come from California?

Big tall black boots were the footwear of choice.  Handbags were slightly evolved from last season's simple large clutches to simple large clutch with gussets pressed out and thick chain straps.

Fur, faux or otherwise is clearly here to stay for chilly seasons to come.  Pretty soon, even Bigfoot will be chic.

Photos by David TW Leung

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Reem Acra Fall 2013

The major award shows are over, but I can't get enough of red carpet gowns.  Reem Acra did not disappoint with their NY Fashion Week showstoppers.  There were the big, tulle, hand beaded gowns that everyone oohed and ahhed over, but that was actually towards the end.

The surprising stars of the show were the edgier, more street-savvy sexy leather and fur looks towards the beginning.  Their program stated that the influences for Fall 2013 were inspired by travels to Japan.  Unlike, most designers who cite the Far East nation as a muse, there were no stereotypical kimonos or Geisha looks.

This Japan was a modern, cosmopolitan one.  Reem Acra specifically looked to photos of artist Daido Moriyama (see left).  This was reflected in the dramatic palette of black, white, and strokes of red. Globe-trotting women with swagger, style and owned the night.  Leather, fur, body hugging silhouttes were striking and not what I had come to expect from this label.  Gotta say... I loved it!

See the full collection here:

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NY FASHION WEEK: Vera Wang Fall 2013

Ah Vera... The most rough edged of males in the photographers' pit could appreciate the beauty of Vera Wang's Fall 2013 collection.  A large floral runway echoed the dominant floral jacquard of the clothes.

The show opened with various shades of grey (not quite 50) and black.  They were jeweled, beaded, shimmering and accompanied by luxe fur wraps of different incarnations.  Then the draped silhouettes showed off the signature floral in silver, purple and burnt orange.  The key fall colors were established quickly.  

Whatever length you wanted in your skirt, you could have.  There were short skirts, knee length and flowing floor length.  Not a skirt person? Elegant pants were also offered.  I was lucky enough to see some of my embroidery designs used in Vera Wang's collection in the late 1990's, and I can attest to how much of a perfectionist she is.   Based on the runway results, I can see it's worth it...

Click to see the full collection:

Photos by David TW Leung

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NY FASHION WEEK: Carmen Marc Valvo Fall 2013

I love dark glamour.  Carmen Marc Valvo's fall 2013 collection used my favorite colors of black, deep violet, oxblood and white.  There was some beautiful beading, leather piecing and luxurious fur.

The designer seemed to take some of his inspiration from the same muse as many other designers this season.  The mix of dramatic fur, and sweeping skirts mixed with jet crystal beading looks right at home on a Russian aristocrat of years past.

 This design house was one of my first jobs in the fashion industry.  I was an assistant in the sales department one summer while I was at Parsons.  My good friends were interns in the design department.  It was my first time working somewhere with so much elegance.  Carmen was accessible to everyone, even the interns.   Almost 20 years later, someone I worked with who had started at the bottom has now worked his way up to creative director behind this gorgeous show.  Let that be a lesson to those who think that jumping around from company to company is the way to go.

Take a look at the full collection here.
Photos by Mariana Leung

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NY FASHION WEEK: BCBG Fall 2013

Max Azria's BCBG line is one of the first to kick off Mercedes-Benz fashion week at Lincoln Center for me (Nicholas K is the actually start, but my co-host from Ladies Who Lunch thankfully covers that for me).  The fall 2013 collection showed lots of layers in save black and cream.

They showed more fur collars like their Fall 2012 collection.  They layered leather with eyelet, warm-looking textured fabrics infused with the patterns of mosaic tiles. Colors included navy and deep maroon in addition to the majority of black and cream.    Accessories included a few over-sized envelope clutches, which clearly must be a big seller for them, as they have been the key bag on the runway for third season in a row...

BCBG has never been a leading trendsetter label.  If the formula isn't broken, why fix it?

photos by David TW Leung

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Bryan Boy's Furry-Tale

Afraid you'll be chilly for NY Fashion Week?  Longtime fur accessories label Adrienne Landau collaborate with blogging star Bryan Boy for a collection of accessories for fall.  They launched the brightly colored collection together at the Mondrian Soho hotel yesterday.

Bryan Boy had always favored wrapping his own camera straps in the luxury of fur as a way of covering up the unsightly logo.  He casually mentioned it to the folks at Adrienne Landau who came back with a full collaboration offer.  Bryan has brought an infusion of color never before seen from the more traditional company.  Vivid purple and forest green being his favorite colors.  Super bright yellows and red also made the mix.  Besides the camera strap covers, there were simple neck wraps which Bryan Boy extensively wear-tested himself to give feedback to the technical team.  My favorites were the mink bow ties.

I first met Bryan Boy while he was dressed like a lion during Fashion week several years ago.  Literally garbed in a mane, paws, possibly a tail... This project of his seems fitting, and much more marketable than a collection that belongs in the Wizard of Oz (unless James Franco is modelling).

With all of the talk about how paranoid the fashion crowd is of getting sick for NYFW, immediate availability of these furry warmers would have been great.  Alas, we can't get our hands on them until Fall 2013...

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DIY: Vintage Fur and Beaded Jacket Upgrade

Sometimes your favorite fashion item gets a little worn and you need to give it a holiday season upgrade.  I decided to give my inexpensive brocade jacket (originally on sale at Nine West) a luxury DIY makeover.

Materials:
-vintage fur collar (salvaged from an old coat)
-long navette Swroavski sew-on crystals
-long glass bugle beads
-fire polished 3mm faceted Czech beads

To attach the fur to the jacket, line up the center back of the collar to the center back of the jacket collar (this only works if the fur collar has a lining).  Loosely tack the collar and fur collar in a zig zag manner outwards towards the collar points in both directions.

For the embroidery, I started stitching down the jewels in place first, then followed up with the black bugle beads to accentuate the existing pattern.  Depending on the fabric of the jacket you are working on, you can adjust your materials to fit the motifs.  Long bugles are great for geometric lines, seed beads or rhinestones are great for adding pop to the center of flowers or spots.

Funny story about this jacket.  I was on duty jury for an excruciatingly long trial for a rapper who shot her friend.  The bailiff who was in charge of us was a very intimidating Tom Sizemore lookalike who never cracked a smile.

For the length of the trial, I was always carrying around this tote bag from Angry Little Girls.  

Apparently, Mr. Not Sizemore was the only one to notice my bag.  When a flamboyant male fellow juror complimented this brocade jacket, the bailiff said back to him "Get your own jacket Bitch!" smiling, proud that he gave a sassy fashion comeback.  Then, looking at the face of the shocked other juror, he realized that no one was in on the joke and turned beet red.  I on the other hand, couldn't stop giggling and patted the bailiff on the shoulder to assure him he was funny before explaining to the poor juror he wasn't being given a style smackdown by the Bailiff.

What did you think of the jacket makeover?  Have you given your own closet items an upgrade?  Share them with me!

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