Noon By Noor Fall 2013

I love all sorts of designer families.  Noon by Noor designers Sheikha Noor Al Khalifa and Sheikha Haya Al Khalifa are cousins.  Their second outing at NY Fashion week was inspired by the transient culture of their home country of Bahrain.

The knitted wool caps, long caps and scholastic looks reminiscent of the British boarding school days of my father's time.  He, like many foreign students had parents who wanted their child to receive an International education and exposed themselves to culture.  Winter weather was a new thing, etiquette, language...  The cool color palette of the sportswear was grey, oxblood, blue, black with hints of gold.   The evening wear warmed up with rich red in silk.  

I"m not sure how many stores actually carry this line yet, but you can buy it on their own website. It is a good looking collection for only a second season, though I don't see a consistent aesthetic yet.  I'm looking forward to some great things from these designing cousins.

Who are your favorite designing families?

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Richard Chai Fall 2013

Parsons alumni shout-out! Fellow classmate Richard Chai's Fall 2013 collection from NY Fashion week looked like a chic utilitarian uniform for the future utopia.  Too wordy?  The runway reminded me of the zen wardrobe of the 1997 movie Gattaca .  The color palette was full of greys, black and an accent of violet.  The silhouettes were tailored but not severely tailored.  

The guy we nicknamed "Richie Rich" in class always manages to nail that pretty/preppy, understated privileged look dead-on.  I'm not saying that was his own lifestyle, but he knows how to project our fantasy version of that look very well.   Maybe the bored look of the models helps.  

Does anyone else remember the movie Gattaca? Or was I the only one who watched it?

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Jill Stuart Fall 2013

Wednesday Addams is all grown-up (and I mean that in a good way).  Jill Stuart's Fall 2013 collection started with look after look of coordinated black outfits.  Some sparkled, some had sheer, there was a lot of texture.  The lengths were cute and short.  A fur collar on one, tied on another, almost like an evolved version of the Gothic style icon.

Being a New Yorker, lots of black is perfect for my city lifestyle and the sexy/cute factor keeps it from being too dreary along with the gold and white accents.  That's not to say there wasn't color at all.  When I do wear color, it tends to be red, oxlood, purple and they had a grouping of pretty dresses that manipulated stripes and featured ruffles and fabric blooms.

I'm excited about the footwear here.  I love the T-strap shoe and hoping its appearance on this runway signals the return of this flattering style.  Clearly across many fashion shows, the bootie is here as a staple for another season.  No complaints there.  The hair for this fashion show is perfectly doable.  It looks blown and brushed out (about the limit of my morning routine abilities).

What do you think of the modern Wednesday look?

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J. Mendel Fall 2013

If you're going to do fur for fall, do it well.  The most fashionable of these is multi-generation label J. Mendel. The designer created highly modern pieces for Fall 2013 at NY Fashion Week for today's customer.  Long vests, collars, cuffs and gorgeous handbags are some ways to wear fur today. If you have a moral objection to fur however, there were plenty of luxurious looks that did not involve any animals.

Metallic brocade separates, long flowing gowns with sequins and elaborate embroidery, bias seamed satin were all elegant details that allowed the J. Mendel client to wrap themselves in the same amount of luxury with or without fur.  

As an embroidery designer, I drooled over these beautiful art deco inspired beading patterns.  Feeling like a contemporary Daisy Buchanan flirting with Gatsby? The embroidery looks so fantastic because of the delicate lines are all running down the curves of the body which is incredibly flattering.

I can's say every look was a success.  There was this one jacket with a fur peplum...What kind of woman wants a thick furry piece wrapped around her waist?  

The handbags were in traditional silhouettes, but the materials were ultra-luxe, with crocodile, mink, fox and treated leathers.  My personal favorite was that trimmed mink clutch with the jeweled handle.  Love. Want. Christmas is coming...

Will you be incorporating the fur trend into your fall wardrobe?

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Timo Weiland Fall 2013

Fashion editors like to toss around phrases like "urban camouflage" and utilitarian a lot with fashion.  I think that's often BS.  However, with Timo Weiland's Fall 2013 collection, I actually see how that applies.

It's kind of funny how two male designers, Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein, understand the mind space of a a cosmopolitan woman who likes the idea of a rugged uniform look or camo pattern, but will only execute it in a sophisticated, feminine way... The camouflage motif was done in an elegant sweater with sequins.  Military colors were translated into georgette or leather.  The aviator jacket was made like a tailored blazer.  The looks on the runway were a cheeky take on several fashion cliches and I thought it was very clever.

This collection is a lot like how I dress "for the country" which leaves my Hubby shaking his head.  Reminding me that I just don't "blend" when I wear a severely tailored silk crepe plaid blouse and dark indigo skinny jeans.  It's the same as a flannel and denim isn't it?  So what if my work boots are Miu Miu?

Timo Weiland's catwalk serves as a reminder that a diva can be a diva no matter what the trend might be. Ha!

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Dior Haute Couture Fall 2013

Raf rules! I have to admit, I was one of the skeptics when I watched Raf Simon's first outing for Christian Dior.  However, I was impressed on several fronts with his recent Fall 2013 Haute Couture collection for Dior.

First, the color combinations were gorgeous.  It seems simple, but the mix of black, cool pastels with contrast brights looked super modern.

Second, after lots of media scrutiny across the fashion industry about diversity, the runway here had more models of color than any catwalk in recent history.  The multiculturalism did not end there.  The silhouettes and some of the embroideries clearly had their influences in different ethnic cultures with some asymmetrical kimono shapes or puckered silk technique.  There were also draped shoulder details and sequin lines with roots from traditional African garb. What I liked was that the influences were not literal, but a hyper-contemporary, minimalist take on these muses.

Third, many young designers feel the burden to create collections that rely heavily on the brand's past to make sure they are staying true to the namesake legacy.  This collection managed to evoke the spirit of the "New Look" without actually having to trot out something from 1947.  Sure there were some dresses that could be called a ballgown, but beyond the flare of the skirt, it was completely modern.

One of my criticisms of his previous collection was that it looked too much like sportswear and that it couldn't justify the price tag.  I realized that my thinking was very dated.  It took this collection to make me realize that Haute Couture did not need to be tons and tons of fabric and hand embellishment , for luxury, it just needs to make you feel like a modern queen...

Photos from IMAXtree

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Canadian Fashion - Indie Designers

Happy Canada Day! In the spirit of this day of independence from the North, I bring you some of Canada's top independent fashion designers.  I discovered some great indie fashion labels at World Mastercard Fashion Week in Toronto this past spring and hope they invade the borders soon!

The design team of Shawn Hewson and Ruth Promislow behind the BUSTLE label comes to represent what I love about Canada.  The collection is bright, good natured and has a sense of humor.  Menswear dominated their runway with well cut separates and suits in unexpected colors.  A few women's looks made their in as well. The designers started off in law practice, but their stylish collaborations soon came to include everyone from Vespa, Hotel St. Germain to the city of Las Vegas.

Golnaz Ashtiani won the TFI fashion award and quickly racked up press coverage from all of Canada's top fashion magazines.  Her collection, Ashtiani at Toronto Fashion week had sharp, architectural seams with clean cut tailoring.  I loved the mix of contrast fabrications and cool attitude.

MATIS is an award-winning collection from designer Lucian Matis.  He got his fashion design roots growing up in his mother's tailor shop before having is work grace the covers of the country's top publications. His fall 2013 collection had simple silhouettes populated with complex and beautiful prints.
Photos by David TW Leung

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Nanette Lepore Fall 2013

Utilitarian chic was paired with shimmering iridescent accessories for Nanette Lepore's fall 2013 runway.  Based on the designer's posts on social media, the inspiration for the collection was the Mars rover landing.  Nanette is one of the most prominent advocates for saving the Garment Center in New York City.  She produces much of her collection locally, which in itself is eco-friendly.

There were pretty prints in shades of olive and green that gave a hint of a camouflage pattern. Sequinned tops and skirts also had an enlarged version of these motifs that also hinted at military inspiration.  While the models did not sport crew cuts, the rigid posture of their walk complemented constructed jackets.  Handbags had prominent industrial hardware, but were made in brighter iridescent shades of khaki, red and green.  Shoes also had the galactic, shimmering finish in the heels or  entire platform shoes.  The contrast between the clothing and accessories kept it fun and young, but reflects how women dress today... You're on a mission (work) but want to escape far far away.

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Badgley Mischka Fall 2013

I have covered husband/wife duos, sister acts, mothers and daughters... Now I am happy to profile the fall 2013 collection of newlyweds Mark Badgley and James Mischka.  Before the aisle, came the runway, and it was a gorgeous one.  

There were many dresses of black and gold metallic, two colors that I came to associate with Badgley Mischka over the years.  They were pretty of course, but I have to say I love the blush and raspberry colors more.  The bright white had an almost retro feel to it, being executed in slim, column silhouettes that looked rather Grecian.  The beading and crystal embroidery was a cross between art deco and Aztec geometric patterns.  The large motifs in bugle beads, the waistband, neck or shoulders in crystal. 

The footwear included velvet peep toe heels with cute bows.  They didn't exactly match the clothes, but they were pretty all the same.  Handbags included square and oblong clutches in color block mixed with houndstooth or metallic.  The hair was pulled up in vintage Hitchcock glamour with classic Hollywood beauty makeup.  

Whether it's Mezo-American, Greek or Gatsby, there's a Goddess in all of us and we have every right to dress like it.

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Lela Rose Fall 2013

With all of the attention on street style at NY Fashion Week, the style crowd tends to forget about the ladies lunching indoors.  Lela Rose designs for the privileged women who have cotillions, galas and many official luncheons that require their presence.  The Bush family women often wore this designer in public and the label has fans in celebrities like Susan Sarandon.

Their Fall 2013 collection was inspired by Grimm's fairy tales.  This muse was not taken in a very literal sense.  The hair was styled in a dreamy, wispy/messy look.  The flattering sheath dresses and long flowing skirts or easy long jackets had a more freestyle feel.  There were some striking prints like an Asian-style floral, geometric color blocks and pastel pink ombre.  The lighter colors looked like they were meant for spring compared to the dark colors of other designer's palettes, but then I remembered that much of the clientele is based in the South where color is everything and they don't feel our winters.

A more bohemian touch was seen in the slouchier jackets and full skirts paired with polka dot socks and pumps.  This looked like it was designed to appease the (slightly) rebellious daughters of the more proper mothers that are dressed by Lela Rose.

No matter how grungy one gets, once in awhile it just feels good to dress like a lady doesn't it?

See more looks here:

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Chloe Comme Parris Fall 2013

The designers Chloé and Parris Gordon of Chloe Comme Parris are Toronto Fashion Week’s favorite sister act.  Their fall 2013 collection was a tribute 1990’s grunge.   I rocked out to the soundtrack of Nirvana and Hole and reminisced in the ensembles of crushed velvet, slouchy slip dresses and chunky knits. 

With any good revival, the collection improved upon the outfits that I remembered from my youth. The calf length cardigan jackets were more flattering than the ratty ones I remember people dragged around.  The fabrics were luxurious with delicate details of georgette.  There were several outfits that featured a diagonal slashed detail held together with safety pins as an ode to punk, but as a sexier update.

Accessories included thigh high tights that were printed with pretty scroll patterns.  Shoes were high contrast dyed loafers in bright colors.  Jewelry looked like the rough cut pendants, spiritual bracelets and Goth chokers I used to shop for in the East Village. 

Rock on ladies!

photos by David TW Leung

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Naeem Khan Fall 2013

I always think of Naeem Khan as a dressmaker to queens.  His regal style always involves ornate beading and embroidery. Mr. Khan's factories have long mastered the artisanal skill of this fashion art.  The silky velvets and golden threadwork are often associated with royalty garb in multiple cultures.

The silhouettes are sexy, but a certain modesty implied which I'm sure reflects his international clientele.  There were rich teals, garnet and shades of black perfect for a night at the opera.  More glittering dresses were no doubt waiting to be chosen for an upcoming red carpet while long elegant gowns in luxurious fabrics were probably headed to charity galas.

While the Naeem Khan show is traditionally not one of the crazy, paparazzi bait front rows, A-list celebs in attendance included Matt Damon who counted himself a fan for the fact that his wife Luciana Barroso looked fabulous in his clothes.

This fall 2013 collection is for women who have graduated from dressing like a princess and ready to reign as queen.

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Pamella Roland Fall 2013

For the Upper East Side Ladies who lead the glamorous after they lunch... Pamella Roland's Fall 2013 collection for NY Fashion Week was luxurious with a bit of vintage Hollywood chic.  Fur stoles wrapped necks and arms.  Long trailing gowns in simple solid colors or metallic embellished shorter dresses swept along a mosaic print runway.

Shiny, sexy tight daywear looks could only be called daywear by women who never need to work.  There were jackets and pants in silky fabrics and shiny details that screamed evening, but had daytime silhouettes.  They reminded me of what television characters in high society dramas would wear, rather than real people.  That's not to say they were not outfits I personally wouldn't love to wear if I could make my reality like that...

Unfortunately, the models looked very severe and unhappy.  Perhaps it was the unspoken truth of life as a trophy wife... Tight black headbands and very high platform shoes were the accessories of choice.  The headbands made the look more uptight, pulling the face back like a recent face-lift 

I wish Pamella would use more of the delicate, pretty embroideries that I saw in previous seasons. They were elegant without looking forced or drama filled.

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Monique Lhuillier Fall 2013

 Emerald may be the color of the year, but Monique Lhuillier bejeweled her Fall 2013 runway in malachite.  The marbled green stone was both the backdrop and the most prominent print at her runway show.

The designer is making moves to expand her brand, with new boutiques and dominating the red carpet.  There were a lot more day looks with lots of drama with fur and feathers.  Graphic, animal-like prints like tigers and snake type patterns brought a bold, sexy look to the models.  Unfortunately, if I didn't know any better, I might have mistaken them for looks I expected to find on a Roberto Cavalli runway.

The most gorgeous gowns of course, are the ones Monique does best... Flowing, long evening gowns that follow the curves of the body embellished with intricate beading and embroidery.  I'm proud to say that in seasons past, I myself had contributed to the jeweled, rich beading that Monique is known for.  The short, embroidered dresses are my personal favorites.  If I lived the fantasy life I imagine, I would love to consider these my personal daywear.

More photos of the collection: 

Photos by Cassandra Past

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David Dixon Fall 2013

Grrrrl power.  The David Dixon Fall 2013 fashion show in Toronto opened with a silly black and white excerpt from a parody sketch of the dangers of women thinking with a "Bulls**t!" disclaimer at the end.  This might have been funny or relevant 40 years ago, but in this day and age, an attitude that is far from revolutionary.

The collection itself contained sensible black and white variations of sportswear classics, spruced up with feather collars, lace fabrics,pinstripes and other textures.  There were a few simple evening wear pieces that had sharp flower appliques.  The most successful pieces were the dresses and tops that had spiral cut chiffon trailing down in a curly fringe technique.  They looked light, whimsical without taking away from the serious, no-nonsense vibe of this particular customer.

David Dixon's runway catered to the practical career woman.  Not too much color, pieces that easily blend in with existing wardrobe items or timeless enough to be worn for years.  This collection clearly appealed to his core customer instead of baiting the press.  I could be catty and note that black, more black and navy with bits of white were safe or unimaginative.  Then I looked into my own closet and figured kettle and stove should shut the f*ck up.

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TORONTO FASHION WEEK: Joe Fresh Fall 2013

Hey Joe, what d'ya know... The once grocery store generic clothing brand from Loblaws crossed the border to become one of New York's and J.C. Penney's hottest labels.  Their fall 2013 collection last night at Toronto Fashion Week brought the palette back to a basic palette of black and white.

Leatherette motorcycle jackets, slim cigarette pants, chunky cropped sweaters, thin stripes and a few demure head scarves with knee length skirts gave the collection a 1950's rebel feel.  A few parkas, skull prints and camouflage patterns in shades of grey gave a rock n' roll feel to round out the show.  There were some nicely executed pleat details on skirts and jackets.  There were variations on peacoats.  There were a few embellished jeans that looked quite rich considering the price point I know they usually hit.  

Huge stores on 5th avenue and pop-up stores in the Hamptons have successfully fooled fashionistas on a budget into thinking Joe Fresh is the savvy savior from the mass saturation of H&M, but I'll always remember them as the label hanging next to my President's Choice chocolate chip cookies.

Kudos for their quick embrace by the American shopper.  Any Canadian fashion veteran knows the tough road to translating their local success to the south.  I have to think founder Joe Mimran must have had some fashion guidance from wife Kimberley (designer behind the label Pink Tartan) who also made success with New York and Toronto boutiques.

Now, if they would only sell those cookies at the Manhattan store...

See the full collection here.

photos by David TW Leung

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