Rebecca Taylor Spring 2012

Have you had too many grey skies this fall and winter?  Getting ready for a wet spring? It seems Rebecca Taylor thought about that too.  There were several laminated hooded jackets that seemed designed to deflect precipitation.  

The color palette also had a mottled, watercolor blue tinge.  Knits had a certain fishnet quality, sequins made tops look wet.  I'm just waiting for the weather to warm up to jump in the pool...

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General Idea Spring 2012

I find Geek Chic hot on a man.  Give me a smart, funny, quirky guy any day over a dumb muscle boy.  The General Idea customer looks like a creative type, artsy, cultures, possibly was raised or spent time overseas.

The spring collection had a mix of stripes and patterns together.  Pops of color that were masculine, but brighter than earthy.  Cable knits, graphic ties, relaxed pants made the looks comfortable the American guy who is a little outside the box.  I really appreciate this label for striking that fine balance for guys to look fashion forward without having to be flamboyant.

Oh, and glasses, I love guys with glasses.

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Tadashi Shoji Spring 2012

 Take a stroll though an exquisite Japanese garden for Spring...Tadashi Shoji's collection had a bunch of pretty frocks that reminded me of elegant orchids.  The ombre pastel shades and artful use or ruffles must have done it.
Another trending pattern for Spring were stripes, though I usually see them in graphic prints in casual sportswear and not elegant dresses like these:

More on the garden theme...Dreamy transparent painted blooms...

We only had one actual snowstorm so far in 2012 in NYC, and I am already feeling the effects of seasonal effective disorder...Sigh.  Thanks for the peeks of sunshine Mr. Shoji.

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Naeem Khan Spring 2012

Awards season is in full swing...That means lots of gowns down the red carpet.  Do you have enough frocks lined up?  Naeem Khan is one of the more regal designers out there.  He dresses royalty from all reaches of the planet.

For Spring 2012, he had a mix of sexy, bright, pastel and floral.  The best gowns had dramatic silhouettes or intricate beaded flowers.  The body hugging sleek dresses that were the most simple were also the most sexy.

Some of the looks were too long and too covered up, giving an impression of suffocation (though I suspect those are for princesses of more conservative religious countries).  There was a small group of printed floral looks, (pants on a one piece, dresses with a Bo-peep shape) that didn't work for me either. They just left me scratching my head as they felt out of place among such elegant creations. Then again, Mr. Khan probably has a more diverse clientele than most designers, so he has more divas to please.

Whichever look you choose, you are guaranteed to make a grand entrance.

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Nicole Miller Spring 2012

Stripes, stripes or stripes?  Nicole Miller is a designer known for graphic prints.  In the 1980's, she blazed a trend for signature "conversational" prints of novelty motifs that was copied by brands all over the industry.  

For Spring 2012, she gave us stripes in all forms, in many directions.  Some were chevron, some were turned into graphic color blocks as a playful take on the trend.  Black and white are classic, and they were  available.  However, if you want to go bold, go for the bright purples, fushia, yellows and oranges that popped the graphic dresses.  The models were accessorized simply.  Some sunglasses and flat leather sandals to show that the Nicole Miller girl loves the sun and casual chic.

On a frigid day like today, who doesn't need some warm inspiration?

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Kara Ross Spring 2012

Need more bling in your life?  Jeweler Kara Ross has gems on her mind this spring, along with exotic leathers, metals and style.  All shades of turquoise, lapis and amethyst dominated this seasons' collection.  You could see it in the shades of painted skins on the envelope flap bags or embedded in the jewelry.  

Some of Kara's signature touches are the faceted finishes resembling the closeup view of precious stones on rings and cuff bracelets.  The other is the jeweled clasps on her purses for that extra luxury touch.   Some of the rarer skins used in the handbags are then set in metal like a jewel for a truly symbiotic design process across categories.  Is that an artists' perogative? Thrifty or an eco-minded creative process?  Either way, Spring's blue skies will be beautiful.

Mdivani Monroe interviews Ms. Ross to discuss her baubles in depth:

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Lela Rose Spring 2012

Can you do ladylike and still be young and fresh?  Lela Rose has mastered the elegant garden party look for girls who just like to party....(Just ask the Bush daughters).  Eva Mendes, Sofia Vergara and other red carpet regulars also love the designer.

For her Spring 2012 collection, the designer had all the hot colors (according to Pantone) like tangerine, pale gold, blue, sand and cream.  There were bright prints that incorporated all of them as well (just in case you couldn't decide).  The sunny colors are what you would expect from a Texas-born designer.

The dresses were wearable and sexy, with floral embellishments on one, swiss dots on another, embroidery or transparency to make it extra special.  They strike a great balance between elegant, but not stuffy.

The front row contained enthusiastic editors as well as celebs like Rose Gowan and Susan Sarandon:

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Vivienne Tam Spring 2012

The Queen of Pop-Art Chinoiserie.  Vivienne Tam created a niche of contemporary designer sportswear inspired by traditional Chinese motifs reborn as ironic design.  She first made waves re-interpreting images of Mao in a Warhol-esque palette.  Since then, she has introduced delicate embroideries into cutting edge looks and high-tech digital printing for her signature pop prints.

For Spring 2012, these trademarks were translated into pretty, ladylike silhouettes, but at sexy lengths.  Miniskirts were paired with embroidered or transparent print blouses.  Appliques and more embroidery framed necklines and bodylines in a flattering way.  The colors were tonal shades of celadon, blues, greens or violet, coral, cream and pinks.  They looked like a bolder, more cosmopolitan idea of pastels for the urban girl who really doesn't do pastels (like me).  

Ms. Tam's shows during NY Fashion Week are one of the favorites I look forward to every season, and I'm there with my nose pressed up against the glass at her Soho boutique and sample sales.  

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VLOV - China's Menswear Hope

China was where designers were knocked off, now they are luxury brands fastest growing market.  With all of those resources, where are their mega-labels?  VLOV, which stands for Victory & Love is the award-winning menswear brand by Qing Qing Wu.  Priced to be affordable to a middle-class rice point, he aims to compete with Calvin Klein and Hugo Boss on his turf.  

The designer presented his vision at NY Fashion Week in Lincoln Center with an easy palette of black, charcoal, light grey and pops of bright blue.  There were some 1980's references of wet-look nylon jackets mixed in with zipper details and edgier jacket/shorts combos.  I don't know if the looks here will be too forward for middle-America, but they did get compliments from the more fashionable International fans in the audience.  

It's a longshot, but wouldn't it be a coup for a Chinese designed label to outsource to the USA for production? Just imagining.  But hey, NY designers, Save the Garment Center and keep manufacturing on your home turf!

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Nicholas K Spring 2012

No sibling rivalry here...Brother and sister team Nicholas & Christopher Kunz put out a nomadic chic collection that was a mix of zen, Moorish and evening blues.  The fashion show looks had an edgy, dreamy quality about them, but still looked perfectly Downtown.  

The guys looked equally comfortable, yet urban.  The designer duo somehow achieved on the runway what so many of us New Yorkers wish we could find in real life.  Looking or feeling completely put together for a tough city day, yet somehow, completely relaxed in your own skin...Am I projecting too much?

 Nicholas honed her design chops at almost every major American designer brand (Calvin Klein, DKNY, Coach, Polo...) before her namesake collection.  Brother Christopher is the business whiz with the MBA who specializes in strategy and competitive marketing.

I don't know what your family reunions look like, but I bet the Kunz annual picnic is better dressed than yours... 

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Pantone Tangerine Tango - Charlotte Ronson Spring 2012

It's the color of the year!  If any abstract concept needs a pageant, Pantone's naming of the annual color winner is it.  This year, Tangerine Tango is the It-Girl of the palette.  Based on the Spring 2012 shows, most designers already knew that.  Here, Charlotte Ronson showed flowing, pretty pieces in ombre and embellished styles in the sunny shade.

Ms. Ronson of NYC's famed socialite/partying Ronson family also sent neutral beige and navy relaxed pieces down the runway.  Stylish, but it looked effortless.  Kind of what you would want for Spring.  

Does a strong focus on the named color of the year result in your being taken more seriously as a designer?  Or does that just sound silly?

For those who think a simple color is the made-up drama of fashion's frivolous world, (and I have heard  uninformed opinions to that), consider the case of Ann Taylor.  In 2011, Honeysuckle pink was deemed the most important color.  Wall Street analysts actually downgraded the financial outlook for the sportswear giant due to what they perceived as a lack of the hue in their current offerings. Shortly, the company's shares dropped 5.3%.  

Was that fair?  Doesn't that go against the point of creativity, design and the desire to separate yourself from the pack?  How can you be a trendsetter if you're judged by the percentage in which you follow a corporate numbered color?

Is Tangerine Tango a color you'll be wearing this season?  Who's collection did it best?  

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House of Waris Jewelry

Some of the most interesting designers of NY Fashion Week were not on the runway.  Waris Ahluwalia first made waves co-starring in The Darjeeling Limited and other quirky movies like Rosencrantz and Gildenstern are Undead.  He is consistently spotted by NY media as the ultimate global hipster socializing around town.

As a designer, he has craftsmen in Rome and India make the jewelry for the House of Waris.  His collections have been known to sell out at luxury boutiques like Maxfield's in Los Angeles and Bergdorf Goodman in New York.

The collection he showed in the Lincoln Center tents during Mercedes-Benz Fashion week had an elegant look with European and Eastern influences.  Gold pieces were inlaid with delicate stones, shapes were inspired by forms in nature.  I don't know what I like more, the idea of Waris, an international man of style celebrated for his "exotic" look, or that he has the multi-tasking career that any fashionista would dream of (boutique/jewelry/tea shop entrepreneur with an acting career in artsy films).

If you're shopping for a jetsetter this holiday, this collection is the one to complete your gift list.

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Elene Cassis Spring 2012

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week is a hectic week of running from one show to another, standing in lines and a lot of waiting.  I always love seeing what the big-name established designers will come up with each season and what trends will be important.  However, what I really find exciting about the week is the discovery of young fresh talent.

One of those discoveries last season was Elene Cassis.  Having only graduated from Parsons School of Design in 2009, Elene Cassis has already developed a name for herself and piqued my interest.  Her Fall 2011 Collection was focused, sophisticated and very chic.  Utilizing European fabrications that had a vintage feel to them, Elene’s collection played with color blocking, texture, and matte mixed with sequins.

On the heels of such a strong collection, I was very interested to see what she would come up with for Spring 2012 and I wasn’t disappointed.  The show opened with violinist Sarah Charness performing Swan Lake, which set the tone for the whole show.  Elene Cassis’ Spring 2012 collection again played with color blocking, sophisticated silhouettes, textures and a refreshing spring color palette.  Inspired by the Swan Lake theme, gorgeous dresses that mixed white and black together were a big highlight of the show.

We went backstage to talk about the beautiful new collection with Elene Cassis and also had the opportunity to speak with Sarah Charness about her involvement in the show and where she is heading with her music!

Reported by Mdivani Monroe from Ladies Who Lunch Travel, filmed by Nicholas Waickman

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Parke and Ronen Spring 2012

Sweet threads for the boys, eye candy for the girls...Happy holidays to ME!  West Coast editor Mdivani Monroe brings us goodies from Parke & Ronen's Spring fashion show and chats with the designers, all for our shopping and viewing pleasure:

As you know, I LOVE to shop!  I especially like shopping for myself, finding new and interesting things to wear and trying on a slew of garments!  Only problem is that I am extremely picky (no big surprise) and there are very few things that really speak to me.  Even more frustrating can be finally finding something I love and it not being available in my size!

Due to my high standards, there really are only a very few collections that really draw me in.  A recent discovery, Parke & Ronen is one of those lines.  As I have stated previously, I am not a super relaxed casual guy and when I am dressed casual, I still like to be stylish and put together.  Parke & Ronen fits my casual style aesthetic perfectly.

With chic swimsuits, workout gear, casual shirts, casual shorts and pants and nicely cut jackets, Parke & Ronen offers me the look I want for the gym, the beach, vacation or just a casual weekend in town!  The Spring 2012 collection offers all of that and in great colors to boot!  As I watched the runway show, I was already making a shopping list in my head!

We went backstage before the show to meet the Parke & Ronen designers, Parke Lutter and Ronen Jehezkel, to find out more about them, where their inspiration comes from and what we will be lusting after for the Spring 2012 Season!

Reported by Mdivani Monoes of Ladies Who Lunch Travel, video by Nicholas Waickman

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Nautica Spring 2012

At a recent trip to a museum exhibit, I met up with friends wearing a polo shirt and jeans.  My friends ribbed me, saying that it was the most casual they had ever seen me dressed!  Admittedly, my “casual” would oftentimes be what others would call business casual, but I’m just not that laid back of a dresser.  I’m kind of a preppy guy at heart and wearing flip-flops and grunge clothing is really not my thing.

Which brings me to the Nautica Spring 2012 Collection.  The presentation was held on the rooftop deck of the Empire Hotel (you’ll recognize it as Chuck Bass’ hotel on Gossip Girl) and I attended with my dear friend and partner Mariana Leung of MsFABulous.com.  We were able to snag an interview with Creative Director Chris Cox to find out more about the line.  We also spoke with up-and-coming hip hip star fame and got his views on the collection.

I personally own several pieces of Nautica clothing from board shorts and windbreakers to hoodies.  I love the semi-preppy style of Nautica and this season gave me more of what I want.  Great polos, board shorts, hoodies, pants and a few great jackets!  I loved the color range this season, from nautical blues, yellows and whites to bold reds, oranges and yellows.  I have been craving more color in my wardrobe and this line delivers!

As a lifestyle brand, Nautica is a great fit for me and I know that it will answer the needs of a very wide audience.  I can’t wait for the line to hit the stores and go shopping!

-Reported by Mdivani Monroe of LadiesWhoLunchTravel.com

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Sherry Hill Spring 2012

Since there really weren’t any design options during my short stint in Atlanta, I had to get creative about work options.  This led to teaching design at a college and working at the Apparel Mart in a multi-line showroom.  It was at this showroom that I met Sherri Hill and worked with her line.  Ms. Hill’s designs immediately garnered my respect and I was even more smitten when I met this down-to-earth, charming and super talented lady.

 

With my Haute Couture background, I was immediately intrigued with Ms. Hill’s designs.  The quality of craftsmanship on the inside and outside of her gowns was undeniable.  And yes, I alway do examine the construction of garments, almost an obsession of mine.  However, beyond the construction I was impressed with the meticulous attention to detail, the intricate perfectly placed beading, and the sexy flattering silhouettes.  It was no mystery to me why Sherri Hill's gowns were highly sought after in the Beauty Pageant circuit and by celebrities.  Simply put, a Sherri Hill gown brings out a woman’s best assets to the fullest and lets their beauty shine.

Known for her special occasion dressing and a  line of prom dresses that is unrivaled, Sherri Hill has expanded to creating a ready-to wear line of gowns and cocktail dresses that will make her luscious designs available to a wider audience.  Sherri Hill presented her ready-to-wear line at New York Fashion Week in September and it was every bit as impressive as her couture line.

We met up with Ms. Hill to talk about the evening wear line in her New York showroom, where she was shooting the ad campaign for the Spring 2012 Collection.  The ad campaign is featuring none other than Miss China, Luo Zilin, and we got to see her in action in front of the camera.  We were also fortunate to be there at the same time as Chinese Television Icon Yue-Sai Kan and Ms. Kan graciously spoke to us about the Sherri Hill line.

So, get ready to be dazzled and tempted by the spectacular designs of Sherri Hill

Reported by Mdivani Monroe of LadiesWhoLunchTravel.com

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Eva Minge Spring 2012 (AKA The Show That Wouldn't End)

This show will go down in NYFW Spring 2012 infamy as the show that wouldn't end.  This would be a good lesson to all designers who ever plan a show that they intend clients buyers or press to attend.

The average professionally produced fashion show is about ten minutes, fifteen tops.  Anything more, you just lose everyone's attention span.  At the Eva Minge show, at the 20 minute mark, exasperated signs, annoyed eye rolls were rampant throughout the audience and photographer's pit.  At the 25 minute mark, photographers were screaming:

"NO MORE!"

"ENOUGH ALREADY!"

By the time the show ended (around 45 minutes), some of the photographers had already packed up and left.  I tried to stay, but the battery on my camera, and memory chip had already been spent.

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Cesar Galindo Spring 2012

You may not be familiar with his name, but you have seen his work on the backs of many of today's Pop divas.  Cesar Galindo has created costumes for the likes of Madonna, Mary J. Blige and worked on Gwen Stefani's L.A.M.B. collection.  He has also contributed to iconic fashion brands Calvin Klein and Dolce & Gabbana. 

For his own collection (you might have seen him competing on Bravo TV's "The Fashion Show Ultimate Collection"), Cesar merged his flair for dramatic with wearability.  The designer showed tightly edited groups.  One group was a mix of neutral knits with black.  The silhouettes were artfully draped, but flattering on the body.  There were brightly colored ruched chiffon and satin.  While the dresses had simple basic silhouettes, the gathered fabric was perfect for swishing around with a flourish, (you know I love that).  

Mr. Galindo had some dressy day looks, using a medallion brocade in a jacket, skirt, wrap and top. Other day dresses were elegant, and versatile enough to go from the lady who lunched to the lady who went to the soiree.

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Son Jung Wan Spring 2012

One of Korea's top fashion designers landed Stateside via Capri, Italy to show her collection at NY Fashion Week.  Designer Son Jung Wan was inspired by the pretty Italian island for Spring 2012.  She brought the blues of the water into palette, and used silk chiffon to represent the fluidity.  Shimmering golds, sand and ivory represented the landscape and surrounding caves.

The silhouettes were clean, sexy, flattering.  The looks were fashion forward, but not overly trendy.  They were young, sophisticated and exactly what many New York women would want to wear.  The designer added a few menswear pieces that blended seamlessly into the aesthetic.

For more on the styling concept of the show, and Son Jung Wan's journey to New York designer, check out Mdivani Monroe's backstage interviews:

When it comes to fashion,  Son Jung Wan has no problem adapting from East to West.

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Yoana Baraschi Spring 2012

Did the freak snowstorm of the past week make you want to get away?  Yep, me too.  We only have another winter ahead of us to look forward to.  Yoana Baraschi showed cheerier pieces for her Spring 2012 collection.  The sunny prints looked great against the stormy sky outside.  The silhouettes were simple, but flattering and sexy.  Lightweight knits, ruched georgettes made it easy to throw them in a bag and escape.

Ms. Baraschi's signature embellishments were on display.  Sequins embroidered on necklines, intertwined in light lace and veiled under chiffon helped bring day looks into evening.  Metal beaded hems brought some edge to a simple dress.  Ornate thread embroidery added elegance to solid white or orange mini-dresses   

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