Spring 2017 Collections of 5 Black Fashion Designers

Diversity in runway fashion has been a big issue in the industry, but so far, the story has largely been contained to model casting. African-American designers have rarely been discussed as a group. This week, the Museum at FIT opened its exhibit on Black Fashion Designers in a small step to correct this. While I will give my report on this show a bit later, I thought I would highlight the Spring 2017 collections of a few Black designers I love and have showcased in the past.

Xuly Bet was a huge name when I came to NYC in the 1990s. He made a comeback to New York after doing his thing in France for awhile. His Spring 2017 collection was a celebration of his intricate prints and color combinations. The patterns had African advertising motifs, traditional tribal prints with some contemporary motifs of other cultures mixed in. There were killer shoes with coordinating prints and models were styled in fierce headwraps. Spike Lee, June Ambrose and Kelly Osborne were on hand to support him.

photo from WWD.com

Tracy Reese was my senior year designer mentor when I studied fashion at Parsons School of Design. She was always in sync with her the lifestyles of her customer. Her Spring 2017 collection featured "real" women instead of traditional models. The presentation was a garden party instead of a runway that showcased women of all shapes, ages, and sizes who worked in different professions. The clothes themselves were feminine, mixing graphic prints and flirty details. Animal print, lace, color blocking were all tricks employed by the designer to flatter the body.

Photo by Mariana Leung

Byron Lars is another designer who is committed to the body inclusive discussion. He expanded his collection to sizes 0-22 this season. He spent many hours (many that I was personally a part of) consulting with full figured models of different shapes, bloggers and customers to create a beautiful product that flattered the true range of his fans. The result was a gorgeous collection of pieces in silhouettes not usually found in the plus size range.

photo from African Fashion International

I always loved David Tlale's elegant silhouettes gliding down the runway. He came from South Africa to show in New York for several seasons. His Spring 2017 collection was a mix of both menswear and womenswear. The models looked like Gods and Goddesses striding down the runway in clean, bright, white and black looks.

Public School designer Maxwell Osborne was one of the few prominent designers to publicly embrace the Black Lives Matter movement. Together with partner Dao-Yi Chow, they recently stepped down from their posts as creative directors at DKNY. Their spring 2017 collection was a mix of collegiate styling with the proportions tweaked (extra-long sweaters, shorter pants), with a lot of too cool for school attitude.

Photo by Luis Monteiro for Duro Olowu

I fell in love with the aesthetic of Duro Olowu's work when I encountered his big collaboration with J. C. Penney. It was probably the first and last time I could afford anything with his name on it. That doesn't mean I can't admire his spectacular collections from afar. His Spring 2017 collection was a mix of ladylike dresses and capes with a retro silhouette. Prints were mixed from florals to big polka dots to color blocked stripes. 

After this last election, the fight to see diverse creative forces will be more challenging than ever. Show publishers that you not only want to see different models representing your clothing but tell your retailers that you want your fashion to come from designers of color as well. Check out FIT's Black Fashion Designers exhbit then, since they don't have a gift shop, get to the boutiques!

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#NYFW: Tracy Reese Fall 2014

A warm and muted color palate was the staple on the Tracy Reese Fall 2014 runway. Amongst Reese’s mixed looks, dresses ruled the runway. Knits with prints, and prints atop prints, the key to this collection was contradiction. Model’s mild makeup and thick brows grounded print heavy looks. Look after look, ‘cozy-chic’ was seeping off the runway.

Models sashayed past onlookers toward eager photographers in printed pumps, fur trimmed clogs and metallic boots. The shoes that stole the show were Reese’s shimmering, bi-colored, gold flecked pointed flats.

An equal amount of flowy and fitted forms balanced out Reese’s 43 piece collection. She played with mixed prints and mixed colors, like a plunging v-neck multi-colored and multi-fabric long sleeve sweater, complete with a one arm mesh knit sleeve.

Reese’s collection showcased a multitude of prints like tweed plaid, thick geometric stripes, and a variety of florals. But it was her silk screen tree print set to a late sunset background, on two dresses and a skirt, that made me ready for this fall to come in quick.

One dress stood out above the rest in the show. Paired with a light grey feather scarf, the nude, v-neck knee length silk dress featured a slight flare at the trim and a silver diagonal sequined pattern which encrusted the breast, bodice and right hip.

The upcoming Fall for Tracy Reese is laid back, sophisticated, full of sequined fun and most of all warm, warm, warm!  
- Niko Nelson
Photos by Mariana Leung

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You Never Leave Parsons: 560 Parsons Farewell Party

It's the end of an era on 7th avenue. My alma mater of Parsons School of Design is bidding farewell to their campus at 560 7th avenue and moving downtown. I spent my junior and senior years in this building, draping, drawing, sewing... I made some of my best friends (who still are) within these walls.

Current fashion dean Simon Collins hosted a goodbye party to the space last night on the second floor. To the rest of the world, the second floor of the Parsons School of Design Fashion building is home to the Project Runway fashion shows (and judgement).  In my junior year, it served as the venue for my fashion show too.

On my first day in the fashion department, each student had the opportunity for a one-on-one meet and greet with then department head Stan Herman (now a beloved fashion figure on QVC). I had psyched myself up to present myself as professional and sophisticated, only to have Mr. Herman pinch my cheeks and tell me how adorable I was. I was crushed.  Of course, that made me push harder for the next few years.

My favorite teachers were Steven Broadway in illustration and Maria Laveris in draping.  I was lucky enough to partake in Steven's drawing sessions recently, glad to see he is still inspiring the fabulous in young artists.

Standout moments in my Parsons experience, also turned out to be historical fashion industry ones. The school recruited a few of us to assist former alumni Isaac Mizrahi in dressing his fashion show which ended up as the documentary "Unzipped". One of the first behind-the-scenes reality-style movies that preceded Project Runway by a decade. Of course, the man mentoring the designers, Tim Gunn was at Parsons too but was not yet a part of the fashion department.


In my first semester in the fashion department, I also had the opportunity to volunteer for the CFDA at the first Bryant Park fashion shows when it was called 7th on 6th. A bunch of students were invited to Gianni Versace's first fashion show at New York Fashion Week, which ultimately turned out to be  rare and tragic as he was murdered a few seasons later.


For my senior fashion show, I had two mentors, Tracy Reese and Louis Dell'Olio.  I created a big, dimensional origami bridal dress (long before Galliano and Dior). I also made a tailored jacket/tulle ballgown ensemble that represented both the bride AND the groom (with marriage equality progress, I would like to think this was heralding good things to come). A newly single Duchess of York, Sarah Ferguson was Tommy Hilfiger's date and sat in the front row.

I don't know how I will feel walking into that building on the corner of 40th street and knowing it is no longer my former home. With the "Garment Center" rapidly disappearing, the departure of my former school feels like the end of an era.

Did you go to Parsons? What were your favorite memories?

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Tracy Reese Spring 2014

Ladies who saunter to the beat of a festive drum.  Tracy Reese's Spring 2014 fashion show at Lincoln Center was a sexy parade of bright colors, floral prints with Latin flair and Cuban swagger.  This designer, along with colleague Byron Lars is a favorite of Michelle Obama.  You can picture the First Lady showing off her muscular arms in the fitted short sheath dresses or presenting a great speech in the well cut print blazers.  

With tilted fedoras and cigarette pants, there were many looks that came down in pairs.  The bag of choice was a complementary printed backpack for the girl REALLY on the go (for great distances).  The models were cozy with each other, prompting me to wonder if another type of message was being expressed in support of recent political rulings.  True or not, I know the burly male photographers in the pit with me did not mind.

Tracy Reese was always a down to earth woman when I was first assigned to her as my designer mentor at Parsons School of Design.  She had the best assignments and constructive advice.  It was good to see her again when I volunteered to photographer Tracy Reese for the Fashion Fights Cancer event.

I love that her look is always a mix of fun and feminine for grown women.  I love the embellishment and play of colors with mixed prints.  No wallflowers, just blooming ones please!

Photos by Mariana Leung

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First Lady Style: Michelle Obama

She chose Jason Wu again!  This was as much of a surprise to the designer as everyone else yesterday.  Michelle Obama wore Jimmy Choo shoes to match.


Jason Wu was a 26 year old, little known favorite only known to fashion insiders when Michelle Obama chose his white gown for the first inaugural ball:

Has there ever been a First Lady of the United States that has made a bigger impact on the fashion industry than Michelle Obama? The wife of newly re-elected president Barack Obama has been a style pioneer, turning cult designers or up and coming talents into household names:

Byron Lars' impeccably constructed dresses have been worn by Michelle Obama on many occasions:




The First Lady made a huge sartorial splash at the Presidential debate in this shimmering pink Tracy Reese dress:

That famous red and black dress Michelle Obama wore on election night in 2008 was from Narciso Rodriguez.  She has worn his work on multiple occasions since then:

Photos from Getty Images, Telegraph UK, Glamazons Blog, AP,Shefinds.com

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NY Fashion Week Preview

Excited for NY Fashion Week yet? Just thought I would share some sneak peeks from fashion designers and their fashion illustrations for their upcoming runway shows.

Top, we have Custo Barcelona.  It looks for spring 2013, it will be a candy colored palette and of course, lots of texture!  Then we have Don O'Neill's sketch of a blue gown for Theia, and Norisol Ferrari's dramatic red dress.  Fierce and elegant.

In sportswear, VLOV looks like it is doing sedate but crisp suits for spring.  Jenni Kayne is working the variegated stripe and flirty skirts. Tracy Reese is rocking skinny pants and bright colored jackets with a high low hem.

Libertine has some bright colors and interesting silhouettes ready.  Rachel Roy's sketches show some flattering seaming details for spring and a continuation on the trend of color blocking.  Vivienne Tam drew upon inspiration from the 5 elements and Christian Siriano was inspired by the American Ballet.

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Tracy Reese - Fashion Fights Cancer

How meaningful can a handbag be? I learned the answer to that at an event given by Fashion Fights Cancer.  Designer Tracy Reese led a design and therapy session for cancer patients to personalize a tote bag.  The multi-week workshop was held at the designer's studio.  She and her team opened up their facilities to demonstrate dying techniques, embellishments and her library of inspiration books for the participants.  The group started with sketching on the first workshop, then got to explore all different skills for the next classes for their finished bag.

This class was one of a series organized by Ty Canty, founder of Fashion Fights Cancer.  Previous workshops were led by Byron Lars and another coming up with Jason Wu.  The non-profit will host a fundraising gala this September to provides services to survivors and those suffering from cancer.

To donate or volunteer your own stylish skills, learn more here.

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