#NYBFW Theia Bridal Spring 2020

Happy Bridal Week! Theia Bridal Spring 2020 collection was a sparkling tribute to 1970s style icons. This decade was a beautiful era to showcase the body flattering draped crepe fabrics that Theia has been producing in recent seasons. Designer Don O'Neill paid tribute to the disco era, not with cliches, but evoking the spirit of women like Bianca Jagger and Farrah Fawcett. Plunging necklines, jumpsuits, silver and hand-beaded details all give the Studio 54 vibe, but with an elegant upgrade for a dance down the aisle.

Sure, there are big ballgowns of structured, heavy, uncomfortable dresses out there. The Theia Bridal collection is for the bride on the move, who wants something comfortable and elevated expression of her personal style. The looks from this 2020 bridal collection are sexy and sleek for a range of body shapes. Models of different shapes modeled them on this runway to demonstrate just that.

Styling the show, you saw Bianca Jagger's signature hat and an update of the brushed back curls of Farrah. The makeup was close to natural with a hint of extra shine on the lips. The glittering flowers and orchids as the backdrop were created by Fleur de Pascal.

If you plan on dancing throughout your wedding and need the glamour, the Theia Bridal Spring 2020 collection is perfect for you!

All photos by Mariana Leung

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Toronto Fashion Week: Christopher Paunil's Elegant Brides Fall 2016

David Pecaut Square in Toronto was graced with glamour on the first night of Toronto Fashion Week. Designer Christopher Paunil and partner Chalo Hancock showed their first runway show this season at the venue after launching their label in 2010.

Christopher Paunil creates impeccably tailored evening wear and bridal gowns for mostly private clientele. He takes his muses from classic couturiers like Charles James and Valentino which you can see from the sculpted silhouettes. Paunil likes to combine unusual and traditional fabrics into gorgeous gowns.

With the current runway collection, you can see the top two Pantone colors of rose quartz pink and serenity blue represented in satin right off the start. The variations of high/low, mermaid and trumpet skirt silhouettes are impeccably contructed.

The Christopher Paunil has already been picked up by legendary bridal retailer Kleinfeld in 2014 when they entered Canada. What was more notable for me was how much mentoring work the designer does with younger artists to be with organizations like U for Change. Even as they were developing their own collection, they had a policy to give back to the community as they were growing.

photos by David TW Leung

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Theia's Fairy-Tale Bride 2016

When designer Don O'Neill talks about creating a fairy-tale wedding, he means it. The THEIA 2016 bridal collection was inspired by illustrations of Hansel and Gretel, The Brothers Grimm and other storybooks of the Victorian era. The muse specifically was the Art Nouveau aesthetic of the artist Kay Rasmus Nielsen. 

You can see the influence in the delicate butterfly appliques on a bodice, the illustrations printed on transparent silk, Art Nouveau motifs beaded onto the gowns and wispy web-like fabric treatments complete the theme.

I grew up on the same books  that had these illustrations. I was also obsessed with Hansel and Gretel at the age of 3 (though it was more for the idea of a gingerbread house than anything else). At 5, I was obsessed with the witch after seeing the Canadian opera version of this tale. She was my childhood standard of glamor all the way into my teen years as she was the first person I had ever seen with glitter eyelashes and jeweled nails.

What many bridal collections do is water down trends seen in Haute Couture into a wedding dress. What I love about THEIA is that Don O'Neil will take fashion forward silhouettes from sportswear and give it a luxurious makeover for walking down the aisle. How gorgeous is the silk jacquard shirt dress? Crop tops,  a sleekly tailored suit are great for brides who want to stay true to their personal style when they get married.

My favorite dress though was the finale gown. It was a lacy sculpture of butterfly 3-dimensional corset. Design team member Eduarda used an innovative 3D printing pen tool to draw/sculpt/print? The bodice of the dress. This look was the epitome of what Theia does the best in the industry. The brand experiments with cutting-edge technology and use it to execute classically beautiful fashion aesthetic in a new way.

The intimate runway and backdrop were quite small but gave a thorough ambiance to the presentation. The woodsy moss runway and fanciful bouquets were created by fiancé floral designer Pascal Guillermie of Fleur de Pascal. It's so touching to see  the longtime partnership in real life was also the perfect creative  marriage on the runway, then soon to be romantic wedding in the upcoming year.

I already had my own wedding, but seeing THEIA's 2016 bridal line-up, I think I might go for a posh renewal of vows...

THEIA models and design team
photos by Mariana Leung

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DIY: How to Make a Birdcage Veil

It's June and a classically popular month for weddings.  I recently made a DIY birdcage veil for a bride.  She wanted the veil to coordinate with the necklace she purchased from BCBG.  I took cues from the pearls used on the strands and the crystal-studded leaves.

You need:
- short length (about 1/2 yard) of netting.   For this diamond pattern, it is usually called Russian or French netting and can be found in most bridal supply stores or online at places like Etsy.com.
- a pair of metal combs (short ones).
- taffeta, organza or satin (if you have a swatch of it from your dress, that works)
- beads, rhinestones, pearls (your choice)

For the DIY Wedding veil, you need to gather the ends of the netting and take a needle and thread attach it to the top of the comb.  It doesn't have to be precise, just wrap the thread around and around the loops of the netting and the teeth of the comb and secure it by knotting it off.

Now that you have the basic birdcage veil, you can just start embellishing.  I stitched leaf motifs onto silk taffeta to match the bride's dress. Then, I embroidered tiny crystals on them to look like her necklace.

 However, you can create whatever shape you want from your swatch of fabric.  You can make flowers (see some templates here) or abstract shapes.  You can then stitch beads, rhinestones or pearls in the middle to give it some bling:

Once your leaves, flowers or abstract pieces are done, you just need to attach them to the top edge of the comb by either glueing or stitching to the top ridge of your comb. Make sure to cover the gathered part of the netting. Voila! You own DIY birdcage veil. Style for the aisle!

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Busy Brides Find BHLDN

Indie brides-to-be have found their wedding haven in BHLDN, an off-shoot of vintage inspired retailer Anthropologie.  Selling mostly online and their first two boutiques in Houston and now Chicago, the concept is a one-stop shop of all things pretty!

There are gowns and dresses with retro details like pleats and bows.  There are flapper inspired frocks with intricate art deco embroidery.  There are simple dresses that can be embellished with sashes and jewelry.  Fascinators, necklaces, belts all have a handcrafted, indie designer feel to them.  There is the BHLDN private label collection as well as selections from other curated designers.

Even more fun, the boutique extends into party decorations from tissue paper flowers to printed fans and garlands.  Prices are very affordable, like a short, organza ribbon embroidered dress for $280 to a full ruffled train gown at $2400.  A ceramic pair of bird shaped bottle openers are $28 to double ring placecards for $12.  A gorgeous blush flower fascinator was $150.

 I wish this boutique was around when I was getting married.  It is anti-Bridezilla, for the unique, easy going bride who might be a hipster, might be an artist, doesn't want to confirm to the "Say Yes to the Dress" drama...

Photos by Mariana Leung

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Kate Spade Wedding Belles

From spring flings to the wedding ring... Kate Spade's cheerful color palette was accompanied by her fresh bridal collection last week.  Champagne and French macarons were served to the shoppers ready for blooms.  Those looking for a makeup touch-up were treated to new shades from Jouer Cosmetics.

 For the bride, the silhouettes contained simple sheaths, tunics and shirt dresses.  There were delicate embellishments like pailettes and pearl beading.  The price range was generally between $400-$500.  Bridal jewelry included pearl flower clusters, beaded chokers with chains and jeweled earrings. 

There were plenty of goodies for bridesmaids.  Fabric flower rings and over-sized organza mums adorned hairpins.  Bright colored vintage-inspired jewelry along with embroidered 'dressy' cardigans were perfect for a breezy garden ceremony.  I took a liking to the whimsical clutch handbags inspired by vintage books.  The ultimate accessory that evening was the shoes.  It was the most popular category of the night, all the fashionistas crowded the shoe lounge couches.  The favorite shoes (by far) were the fushia satin glitter encrusted mules with a bow.

If you're planning a simple, chic walk down the aisle, a trip to Kate Spade's boutique in Soho will take care of your needs.

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Starring Theia Brides & Designer Giveaway!

Theia is a relatively new collection by Carmen Marc Valvo and Badgley Mischka veteran Don O'Neill.  The glamorous silhouettes and elegant details have already claimed Carrie Underwood, Emmy Rossum and Taylor Swift  as fans.  

Getting married?  The bridal gowns are simply divine.  Need a fabulous holiday gift?  (The incredibly handsome) Don is giving away one of his illustrated silk scarves.  It's easy...all you have to do is name your favorite holiday gift on their Facebook page... 

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Chelsea's First Daughter Wedding Chic

Photo by Steven Stipelman and Courtesy Photo

Has there been a more anticipated/speculated wedding this past year? Chelsea Clinton's nuptials to Marc Mezvinsky had the media interrogating everyone from shopkeepers, gardeners and Rhinebeck residents for details of the event.
The bride wore a custom Vera Wang gown of swirled tiers on the skirt, asymmetrical bodice and a hand-embroidered crystal sash. Mom wore Oscar de la Renta.
First daughter weddings have always held a soft-spot for the American public. Perhaps the second generation represents optimism and continuity of American family values?

Photo by Getty Images
The wedding of Jenna Bush to Henry Hager was planned to be chic and simple. The Oscar de la Renta gown had a relatively simple silhouette. The V-neck back and short train was flattering and looked unstructured. Of course, the entire dress was elaborately embroidered by hand. The bridesmaids wore Bush daughters favorite, Lela Rose.

Photo by Life Magazine
In 1971, Tricia Nixon's wedding gown was so impressive, Life Magazine made it their cover story. The Priscilla of Boston dress was the epitome of what elegant, fashionable brides aspired to wear. This particular gown was a combination of exquisite lace appliqued to tulle and net.

So what will Malia and Sasha Obama wear when the big day comes? With Mom Michelle being a champion of new designers, the fashion press expects nothing less than inspiring.

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