BCBG Fall 2015

photos by Mariana Leung

Designers really went back to the 1970s for autumn. The BCBG fall 2015 collection by Max and Lubov Azria was all about groovy knits and folksy embroidery. The color palette had a range of earthy neutral colors like sand and tan. Brighter colors included red, orange, brown, and navy. 

The design team worked the colors into a color blocked patterns, something I have seen from them in the last few seasons. They also worked in some faux fur for when the weather gets cold. Being a West Coast based fashion brand, many of their team probably doesn't see the winter, so naturally, lots of layering was involved to accommodate all climates. There was a lot of thread embroidery that emulated the techniques and patterns the design team saw in their foreign travels. This added to the global nomad hippie vibe of the overall runway. 

I saw less handbags in this show than previous ones. BCBG looks like they finally graduated from the flat envelope clutch to the bigger, chunkier envelope clutch. In footwear, it was all about the tan leather boot. A lot of tan leather boots.

No doubt, NY Fashion Week was all about the 1970s. Some designers went with luxurious disco glam. BCBG Fall 2015 went with bohemian chic. There's a look for everyone in that decade.

Read more >>

BCBG Max Azria Spring 2015

Spring on the BCBG runway had an Eastern, Boho vibe. There were variations of kimono silhouettes. The color palette was pale, pastel, with lots of white, more white, pink and seafoam.

Lantern sleeves and wide obi belts with trapunto stitching were prominent details. The few prints were truly pretty. They had a layered look that at first looked like an abstract Japanese floral, but were actually inspired by a color reform over-dying technique Lubov Azria observed at a home décor boutique. There were also delicate embroidered details using two different sized pearlized sequins or intricate threadwork. I can see these styles being adapted into a casual beach wedding.

The easy garment silhouettes are very West Coast. Either that, or their fitting team just wanted to make sure that every style could fit everyone (or they don’t know how to fit a garment and playing it safe). The shapeless garments were a trick BCBG as used in past season, so it must be working for them. The exception to that was the quilted renditions of the current moto jacket trend but executed in a super feminine way.

photos by Mariana Leung

BCBG finally moved past the envelope clutch handbag shape they were sending down the runway for several seasons in a row. Instead, they have a cute round handbag similar to a minaudiere with a long over shoulder strap or a large retro styled hobo bag.

The models hair was long, flowing and natural. The makeup was natural with a bit of sun-kissed bronzer. 

If you are looking forward to a California by way of Asia look for spring, the BCBG Max Azria collection for spring 2015 is it.

Read more >>

NY FASHION WEEK: BCBG Max Azria Spring 2014

Welcome to Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center.  The BCBG show was my first at the venue for spring 2014.  Spring floral prints and pale pastel colors were in the air and on the runway.

It was a chaotic, overcrowded affair with a bunch of European photographers who were disrespectful and didn't know the etiquette.  Worse, some doughy first timer (but not young) from Houston whined and complained, then did the most offensive thing of all, he ran into the middle of the pit AFTER the show started.  If the designer is missing images from the first few looks, blame Houston.  This was not a great start to the day.

Thankfully, an artful collection from the designers improved my mood a bit.  There were some constructed, draped separates that were a nice departure from the over simplified flat handkerchief styles from a year ago.  The abstract brush print looked very pretty with the feminine florals.  There was one embroidered top that had a contrast white against the black base fabric that looked folksy and elegant.

This season, the design team got their stuff together and churned out a collection that will make their fans very happy.  Glad to see a label moving forward not backward.

Are you a BCBG fan?  How did you like this collection compared to the past?  (more photos here)

Read more >>

NY FASHION WEEK: Herve Leger Fall 2013

Expecting classic bandage dresses from Herve Leger's Fall 2013 collection?  There are a few token styles, but the Max Azria team is coming at you with a bunch of new themes.

There were some fantastic patterns that looked like they were inspired by everything from art deco, animal prints to string art.  The prints or beading were engineered to follow the contours of the body for a very sexy effect.  There were some disappointments, there were the same big rectangular clutch handbags seen at last season's show and at sister label, BCBG.  There was a rehash of the leather corset belts from last year's fashion show as well.  My biggest complaint? The baseball cap hat that was on every look.  It cheapened what otherwise would have been a great dress collection.

Click to see the full collection:

photos by David TW Leung

Read more >>

NY FASHION WEEK: BCBG Fall 2013

Max Azria's BCBG line is one of the first to kick off Mercedes-Benz fashion week at Lincoln Center for me (Nicholas K is the actually start, but my co-host from Ladies Who Lunch thankfully covers that for me).  The fall 2013 collection showed lots of layers in save black and cream.

They showed more fur collars like their Fall 2012 collection.  They layered leather with eyelet, warm-looking textured fabrics infused with the patterns of mosaic tiles. Colors included navy and deep maroon in addition to the majority of black and cream.    Accessories included a few over-sized envelope clutches, which clearly must be a big seller for them, as they have been the key bag on the runway for third season in a row...

BCBG has never been a leading trendsetter label.  If the formula isn't broken, why fix it?

photos by David TW Leung

Read more >>

Herve Leger Spring 2013

What happens when a the designers of multiple labels are incestuous? BCBG Max Azria clearly crossed teams with Herve Leger's spring 2013 collection.  The color palettes were similar in the black, cream, cafe brown and grey.  The prism-like prints and contrast color block details were similar in both collections.  Envelope clutches was the key  handbag statement in both runway shows as well.  Cut shape leather vest/corset/belt accessories were seen on both catwalks.

Is that to say I didn't like what was on the runway? No. There were plenty of looks I liked at both Herve Leger and BCBG, I just couldn't tell you which was which.

One of the big reasons that Herve Leger looked too much like BCBG was the near absence of their signature elastic band dresses.  They had a few skirts with it, but don't fix what isn't broken! Red carpet celebrities and statuesque fashionistas count on those dresses to squeeze them into a va va voom body.  They were the Spanx of cocktail dresses.  What are they going to do now?

Read more >>

NY FASHION WEEK: BCBG Spring 2013

BCBG Max Azria showed a sexy spring collection with a simple color palette for NY Fashion Week.  Black, white, grey and pops of coral seem to be the only colors they will offer next season.  The looks were a mix of edgy leather, chiffon and lace with some faded floral prints.  The silhouettes were a lot more constructed than the previous fall season.

I was surprised at how much of the runway show was very dark when every other designer showed brighter, lighter colors.  I wonder how many of the styles were  a spillover from holiday 2012?  There were a few styles that had bandage-like details, similar to their sister line of Herve Leger.  That indicates to me that their collective design teams are likely overworked when styles overlap like that.

Handbags, which are very popular from BCBG were variation upon variation of the big envelope clutch.  They have been offering the envelope clutch for several seasons now, so it must be a bestseller, becoming a signature item, (or the overworked design team just gave up).  The size and scale were quite similar, as well as the styling and finish.

Whether redundancies were in this runway show or not, I still look forward to shopping the clothes I viewed in 2013.  

Full collection:

google.com/s/c/bin/slideshow.swf" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="400">

Read more >>

NY FASHION WEEK: 1970's Fur at BCBG Fall 2012

Fall is cozy and hot for BCBG Max Azria.  The West Coast designer's show yesterday morning was a mix of bold colorblocking, fur accents and 1970's silhouettes.  The palette was warm, with mustard cherry red, orange, different shades of brown as well as deep shapes of indigo.  Skirts and dresses were long, the fabrics soft.  

Handbags were big co-stars.  Large, structured satchels, over-sized envelopes, fur carryalls and clutches coordinated with the looks on the runway.  Straps and flaps were contrast against the body of the bag.  

Maybe this is a really good sign for Fall 2012, or I just really like this label, but I can't wait to shop this Fall!

Read more >>

NY FASHION WEEK: BCBG Spring 2012

Max Azria's brought simple dressing to the forefront for spring 2012. By simple dressing, I mean garment after garment of flat panels hanging off shoulders, swing silhouettes, and an avoidance of sleeves at any cost...

Look after look contained big easy shapes that looked like it could be one-size-fits-all flowing off the body. I wondered if the design team or pattern makers were going for ultimate comfort or were just too lazy to fit anything to the body this season.

There was lots of color blocking in royal blue, turquoise, yellow and orange. Big contrasting colors with prints that had tribal inspiration, but were vague about which culture's tribe. They were more of an updated, digital version of a lost civilization.

If you indulged too much over the holiday season, but still want to make a bold entrance next spring, you wouldn't find a more forgiving collection than BCBG.

Read more >>

Fashion Flanked Whitney Art Party

Artistically inclined fashion designers and cultured celebs came out to the Whitney Art Party Wednesday night. The works of John Baldessari, Terence Koh, Matthew Brannon and Marilyn Minter were up for silent auction to raise funds for the Whitney Independent Study program. The initiative strives to educate future curators and art historians.

Designers in attendance included host Max Azria and patrons Jason Wu, Adam Lippes and Francisco Costa. The stylish event saw the likes of Tinsley Mortimer, Alexis Bledel and Bradley Cooper perusing the modern art. Many of the guests paid tribute to the hosting designer by wearing Herve Leger and BCBG dresses.

Photos by Steve Eichner. Art print by Marilyn Minter

Read more >>