#NYFW: Herve Leger's Spring 2015 - Sexy Bound

Bravo to the Herve Leger design team.  The spring 2015 is one of the best collections I have seen from this label in many seasons.  I think they lost their way for a while.  I even accused them of sharing too many employees from BCBG and stretching them too thin and both collections looked quite similar a few seasons ago.

I’m happy to say that spring 2015 was thoroughly impressive.  It looks worthy of the Herve Leger, luxury Parisian label that it once was.  They were finally confident enough to not rehash the brand’s classic bandage dresses and re-interpret the concept for a new generation of clientele.  The body conscious, bound look was designed with intertwining stretch cords, metal hardware and curve tracing style lines.  Three dimensional embellishments were intricately worked into many of the styles.   The work that went into the pieces truly looked like couture again, and not outfits that just slapped a corset on for effect.

For slightly easier looks, the designers had a group of flattering dresses that used an elegant print that looked like a cross between a tribal and tapestry print, further embellished with contrast color embroidery.   There were a few ensembles using a blocked two-tone beige and black contrast pattern in a tailored, curvy silhouette.

Handbags were also given an upgrade.  After several seasons of basic envelope clutch handbags, they had very structured pyramid shapes and fan shapes.

This is not a collection that is very forgiving to many body shapes.  Svelte socialites and Hollywood starlets will no doubt be flaunting their bodies on the red carpet in these looks. 

Damn, I need to get to the gym.

photos by Mariana Leung

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Herve Leger Spring 2014

What makes your outfit sexy?  Is it the accessories, you or the clothing? The Herve Leger Spring 2014 collection made an argument for all three. Intricate kaleidoscope prints were paired with gorgeous leather corset belts.  Many of the pieces were elaborately trimmed with zippers for a luxe punk touch.  You could actually wear these with more sedate pieces at the office to add an edgy look.  

Instead of Herve Leger’s signature elastic band dresses, there were some interesting layered knit dresses.  I’m wondering if these have the same supportive functional as the classic dresses did.  If they don’t, that could be losing many of their hard core fans. 

There were a lot of swimwear looks as part of this collection; probably to capture the St. Tropez, Ibiza or even South Beach crowd.  They looked hot.

Accessories included sleek clutch handbags for another season (also in their sister collection BCBG).  Shoes were simple wide band sandals with chunky clear heels. 

 As good as the prints and swimwear looked though; my criticism here is that it looked quite a bit like the Gottex collection for the past two seasons.    The leather pieces with the ruffles, perforated patterns and bustier looks were reminiscent of Gaultier, Dolce & Gabbana and other designers of seasons past. I know there is very little originality in fashion anymore, but it shouldn't be so obvious from a label that already has a very distinctive identity.  When many iconic labels have reinvented their heritage image, why is this one abandoning theirs?

What did you think of this collection?

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NY FASHION WEEK: Herve Leger Fall 2013

Expecting classic bandage dresses from Herve Leger's Fall 2013 collection?  There are a few token styles, but the Max Azria team is coming at you with a bunch of new themes.

There were some fantastic patterns that looked like they were inspired by everything from art deco, animal prints to string art.  The prints or beading were engineered to follow the contours of the body for a very sexy effect.  There were some disappointments, there were the same big rectangular clutch handbags seen at last season's show and at sister label, BCBG.  There was a rehash of the leather corset belts from last year's fashion show as well.  My biggest complaint? The baseball cap hat that was on every look.  It cheapened what otherwise would have been a great dress collection.

Click to see the full collection:

photos by David TW Leung

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Herve Leger Spring 2013

What happens when a the designers of multiple labels are incestuous? BCBG Max Azria clearly crossed teams with Herve Leger's spring 2013 collection.  The color palettes were similar in the black, cream, cafe brown and grey.  The prism-like prints and contrast color block details were similar in both collections.  Envelope clutches was the key  handbag statement in both runway shows as well.  Cut shape leather vest/corset/belt accessories were seen on both catwalks.

Is that to say I didn't like what was on the runway? No. There were plenty of looks I liked at both Herve Leger and BCBG, I just couldn't tell you which was which.

One of the big reasons that Herve Leger looked too much like BCBG was the near absence of their signature elastic band dresses.  They had a few skirts with it, but don't fix what isn't broken! Red carpet celebrities and statuesque fashionistas count on those dresses to squeeze them into a va va voom body.  They were the Spanx of cocktail dresses.  What are they going to do now?

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Fashion Flanked Whitney Art Party

Artistically inclined fashion designers and cultured celebs came out to the Whitney Art Party Wednesday night. The works of John Baldessari, Terence Koh, Matthew Brannon and Marilyn Minter were up for silent auction to raise funds for the Whitney Independent Study program. The initiative strives to educate future curators and art historians.

Designers in attendance included host Max Azria and patrons Jason Wu, Adam Lippes and Francisco Costa. The stylish event saw the likes of Tinsley Mortimer, Alexis Bledel and Bradley Cooper perusing the modern art. Many of the guests paid tribute to the hosting designer by wearing Herve Leger and BCBG dresses.

Photos by Steve Eichner. Art print by Marilyn Minter

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