NYFW: Kate Spade Fall 2016 - Live at the Rainbow Room

 Is there a more glamorous old school New York venue like the Rainbow Room? Kate Spade's Fall 2016 collection was a bit of retro elegance and showbiz. The clothes displayed vintage styled floral prints and tweed coats. Kate Spade handbags had the signature tongue-in-cheek shapes. However, this season, I'm going to have to restrain myself from buying all of them.

The clothing was styled into demure silhouettes. Lots of high necks and peter pan collars. Fur collars and wraps gave some richness to some outfits. There were ladylike sweaters paired with trousers that ended above the ankle.

 The first handbag I saw when I entered the Rainbow Room was the swan purse. I. Must. Have. It. I don't usually jump at novelty bags, but this was love at first site. The furry black cat was cute. The fan bag was another beautiful, vintage inspired clutch I want. The movie marquee and radio bags were adorable.

It was all about jeweled shoes for me. I love anything with lots of tasteful (or not so tasteful) jewels. There was a mix of dainty flats up to platform heels. The jeweled flowers across the vamp were sized accordingly. I love the look of the sparkle on top of the animal or floral print.

The otherwise simple shapes of the clothing were made up with the heavily embellished collars. There was elaborate jewel embroidery on simple blouses and jackets. The antique brooch trend from last season was elaborated upon with multiple brooches or over-sized jeweled embroidery on the chest as an alternative. Makeup was simple and soft. Like a blushing lady with a smarter edge behind her eyes. Hair was kept simple. Clean or pulled back.

I liked seeing the softer colors and lighter layers for fall and winter. Not every customer lives in a subzero climate (like NYC this fashion week!). Indoors can be roasting while the outdoors are frigid. Kate Spade Fall 2016 tweeds paired with light sweaters over crepe dresses might be exactly what city dressing needs to be for the modern gal.

photos by Mariana Leung

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Independent Handbag Designer Awards 2015

 The best of independent handbag designers were awarded this week at the Independent Handbag Designer Awards 2015. Makers from all over the world participated with their passion projects. It is one of my favorite industry awards as it truly celebrates and elevates indie designers without the distracting factors of celebs, paparazzi, and red carpets.

The event is the dream of designer Emily Blumenthal. It was a way to bring recognition to the legions of independent labels who made handbags. Now in its ninth year, winners of the awards now land spreads in InStyle magazine, receive mentorships at huge brands, debut their collections at Bloomingdale's and are carried on the arms of top celebrities. 

What always struck me about these awards was the sincere involvement of established designers themselves. One of the first iconoclast lifetime achievement recipients was Carlos Falchi. Ever since the first awards show, he was so inspired by the event that he remained to involve and mentor future years as the unofficial Godfather of the awards until his recent passing. Blumenthal gave a wonderful tribute to the designer and his daughter was on hand to present the last award of the night.  

What I always loved about this competition was that it not only elevated the craft and recognition of design talent, but it rewarded humanity in the field as well. The most inspiring categories (long before it became fashionable) are ones like Best Green Handbag, won this year by Sugandh Agrawal of Gunas Handbags. She is committed to making her collection sweatshop-free and ethically produced. Her winning bag was made from biodegradable canvas and recycled lining.

There is also the most Socially Responsible Handbag won by Ana Maria Plata of Leonor Designs. She worked with the Kuna community of Columbia to create traditional textiles called Molas. She then incorporated them into trendy, contemporary handbags. 

This year's recipient of the Iconoclast award was Rebecca Minkoff. Together with her brother, she was an emerging fashion designer herself during the first year of these awards and has grown into an international "IT" brand in the years since. 

Bravo to all of the Independent Handbag Designer Award Winners this year. You will find that hard work, passion and creativity do pay off here. I can't wait to see where you'll be next year!

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Kate Spade Fall 2015

Have you met the Fantastic Mr. Fox? Kate Spade's Fall 2015 collection was styled in the quirky chic aesthetic that I  love film director Wes Anderson for.

The overall presentation had rustic elements in wool plaid and fur clutch handbags. There was an artsy element in the Roald Dahl inspired sketches along the walls and whimsical colour palettes. There were Kate Spade's signature feminine (though not girly) accessories of hats and gloves with the candy box handbags. The larger carryall purses were either crocodile embossed leather or color blocked. The starring Mr. Fox was featured a leather applique face on bags and sweaters.

photos by Mariana Leung

The retro styling of the clothes themselves did look like they could fit into a Wes Anderson movie. Skirt lengths were either short or Ladylike A-line past the knee. Sweep Peter Pan collars added to the deceptively demure looks with a modern edge when paired with heeled oxford shoes. The bright pink and floral prints looked like they could fit into a painted movie set or out on the streets.

I love that the Kate Spade brand has continued to keep her tongue-in-cheek attitude throughout the years. While personal style is nothing to joke about, fashion should never be taken too seriously.

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Aritizia Spring 2015

The day after Christmas in Canada is for Boxing Day Sales. I was at a mall today before the start of a movie and watched one of Canada’s best clothing chain exports being pillaged for its discounts. Thankfully, my position as a blogger of fashion allowed me to preview the upcoming Artizia spring 2015 collection in a civilized manner in their Soho New York location.

The reasonably priced, chic sportswear chain offered up classic trench coat variations in their outerwear. A classic tan, cream and navy color palette dominated their office-friendly fashion looks. While I love popping into this store to grab some basics with a twist, the most exciting thing about this presentation was the handbag collections.

There were the sophisticated leather pieces in over-sized clutch shapes or huge carryall leather totes. The more contemporary collection had brighter colors with styling details that reminded me of emojis.

Like many big clothing brands, Aritzia has launched a fashion forward lounge/athletic wear collection to accompany their main line. This group also mixed in some denim in easy, sporty silhouettes that set them apart from the other brands. The looks also had more of a 1950s vibe to them with short, flirty skirts and pastel colors mixed in with the traditional palette.

Like Club Monaco and Joe Fresh before it, I have watched many Canadian chains cross the border and make a big splash. Aritzia so far has dipped their toes into the water and now waiting for other fashion fans to make the plunge.

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#NYFW: Rebecca Minkoff Spring 2015

Who doesn't love a photographer?  Rebecca Minkoff looked to iconic 1970's photographer Deborah Turbeville as her muse for Spring 2015.  

Deborah Turbeville, Vogue 1978

Deborah Turbeville’s work was known for its darker, edgier quality. She is often imitated today by modern fashion shooters.  Before Photoshop, she manually manipulated her own photographs for different effects.  The 3-D style prints on several dresses is a tribute to Turbeville’s process.

Unfortunately, the attempt at driving the 3-D detail across was not as successful during the fashion show.  Darkening the venue and asking guests to put on 3-D glasses might have sounded fun in planning, but it was disastrous for photographers who spent the time to set their cameras to the proper lighting before the switch.  You could hear a collective howl from the photo pit.  If you don’t see many photos of these looks, you now know why.  That’s too bad, since I actually liked those dresses.

The rest of the collection had a lot of pastel colors, often color blocked.  The fabrics were flowing.  The clothing silhouettes were soft and feminine.

 While Rebecca Minkoff began designing clothing, she is much better known as a handbag designer.  I think every single blogger I network with has at least one of her bags (I have three).  This season, there were fewer of her signature Mini MAB bags and more slouchy carryall handbags.  Fringe and studs were the key details coming up for spring.  There were several round silhouettes of bags resembling a Western water bottle case.
photos by Mariana Leung

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#NYFW: Rebecca Minkoff Fall 2014

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J. Mendel Spring 2014

How many ways can you wear lace?  J. Mendel's Spring 2014 collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week was a beautiful showcase of dresses.  There was an abundance of fishtail gowns perfect for the awards season red carpet.  Beaded, crochet, cutwork textures were pieced together in seam lines that emphasized flattering curves of the body.  Satin faced organza and silk crepe gave a light, airy, translucent look that hinted at the body underneath but didn't reveal it.  

The color palette was light, in a chiffon yellow, raspberry, peach, taupe and accents of black and ivory.  There were just a few fur accented pieces, much less than previous seasons considering this was originally a fur label.  Perhaps there just are as many fur customers in the spring.  

Handbags were structured, oblong shapes picking up the colors of the clothing. Some were color blocked.  The shoes had narrow stiletto heels with curving style lines around the foot.  The mix of sheer and solid echoed the theme of the clothing, though not literally.

A palm front motif was implemented in some pieces.  Sometimes it was a literal green leafed print, others it was a texture in a brocade.

J. Mendel is the master of sexy, luxe and ladylike.  It's no surprise that I see this label on celebrity after celebrity.  Perfectly tasteful, I picture Joan Rivers being frustrated when she does her Fashion Police recap.
Photos by Mariana Leung

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Shopping in Hanoi: Ipa Nima Handbags

Yes I am BACK from my epic trip to Vietnam.  Ipa Nima Handbags  was one of my favorite finds in my shopping excursions through Hanoi.  Christina Yu's celebrated accessories label has its own boutique, but was also carried in the top galleries and upscale stores around the country.

The purses caught my attention for their unique embellishments (you know I am a sucker for that).  They had a wonderful mix of embroidery, applique and creative manipulations of materials.  The color sense was fun and sophisticated.  The motifs were fun, but not cloyingly cute.

Christina Yu was a former fashion editor who was driven to create her brand after being inspired by the work of local artisans.  The company commits to working with smaller, family owned manufacturers in Vietnam for the collection.  I am a bigger fan of the designer's participation in  an organization called KOTO "Know One Teach One" that trains and employs disadvantaged youth, orphans and young people with chronic disabilities.

Ipa Nima already has international fans like Cate Blanchett, Maggie Cheung and the Crown Princess Victoria of Sweden.  Now let's get these bags into New York City too.

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By the Book: Michael Kors Spring 2014

 When I attended Parsons School of Design, it was all about "7th Avenue Sportswear".  The king of this was Michael Kors.  His collection for spring 2014 was the textbook presentation of the well edited, merchandised, buyer-friendly groups that our professions always wanted to see.

What does this mean? When my class had to present our groups of "croquis" (fashion sketches on a figure) the teachers were always looking for cohesive  groups mixing prints, coordinating solid colors, diversity of separates, etc.  Exactly what department store buyers would buy, consistent price point and easy enough for the most unimaginative retail to understand.  Were they asking design students to scale new heights in creativity? No.  They were teaching us to get a job.  Parsons students of today are no longer pushed into this philosophy based on the artistic work I have saw at the last graduate show.  In this century, designers can only distinguish themselves from the big labels by doing something completely different.

Michael Kors is the perfect example of the old school. He's not breaking new ground in fashion design, but he is an American fashion icon by his wit and business savvy.  His spring 2014 collection mixed conservative long, buttoned up dresses and classic coats in brown, navy, camel, green.  There were cropped tops and short shorts in the same fabrics to accommodate the same customer's daughters.

The MK handbag was a huge breakout hit at retail the last few years, so purses also took center stage on the catwalk.

I may not look to Mr. Kors for design inspiration, but he's the first man I would go to for a great quip or learn the industry from.

original photos by David TW Leung

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NY FASHION WEEK: Rebecca Minkoff Spring 2014 With Janelle Monae

The Divas have rocked the house! What a treat to watch the amazing Janelle Monae perform throughout Rebecca Minkoff's NY Fashion Week show.  The style going down the runway was not eclipsed by the energetic singer, a testament to the strength of the collection.

While the spring 2014 collection was noted to be inspired by Latin America, the muse was not presented too literally.  Pretty embroideries were reminiscent of peasant blouses you might find at a market.  However, they were interpreted in different colors, tailored pieces and contemporary motifs.  Some of the prints reminded me of patterns you would see on plastic tablecloths at your local bodega, BUT in elegant fabrics.  The sense of humor of this approach worked well for this season.

As cute as Rebecca's fashions are, her claim to fame will always be her handbags.  There were color blocked pieces and large purses that were a hybrid between briefcase and her signature MAB bags.  Fun backpacks were added that would look great on the back of a moped. 

The shoes?  To die for, (hopefully not because one crashed and burned in heels).  I drooled over the series of long cut-out boot sandals.  There were some that carried the intricate floral pattern of the garments.  Others were solid colored with contrast hardware.  If the towering boot was not your thing, shorter shoes with multi-colored tassels swung whimsically down the runway.

What did you think of the Diva and Designer collaboration? Does having live music enhance your appreciation of the catwalk clothing?

original photos by Mariana Leung

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Anya Hindmarch Boutique Launch in NYC

Luxury handbag and leather goods company Anya Hindmarch launched their lovely boutique on the Upper East Side of Manhattan yesterday.  I always thought of the brand as forward and stylish.  However, the boutique put much more focus on quality, antiques and traditional craftsmanship.

The hand-pressed techniques of customizing your goods were the highlight.  Artisan John Stalley has been the master of this for many years at the London store.  He was brought to New York to train a new generation in old school skills.

As classic as the overall aesthetic appeared, it certainly did not take itself too seriously.  Cheeky phrases were hand-embossed into fine grain leather.  Artistic fonts were unusual color combinations were paired with rich hues.  

Guests left with a literal "pop-up" store, which was a printed cardboard version of the boutique that popped into three-dimensional shape when you pulled it out of the envelope.  A swatch of English heather and a lucky penny also graced our farewells.  Those who needed a treat were handed a freshly made pretzel on the sidewalk.

This boutique proved that old-world luxury does not have to be stuffy.  Now what is your favorite way to marry the old with the new?

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J. Mendel Fall 2013

If you're going to do fur for fall, do it well.  The most fashionable of these is multi-generation label J. Mendel. The designer created highly modern pieces for Fall 2013 at NY Fashion Week for today's customer.  Long vests, collars, cuffs and gorgeous handbags are some ways to wear fur today. If you have a moral objection to fur however, there were plenty of luxurious looks that did not involve any animals.

Metallic brocade separates, long flowing gowns with sequins and elaborate embroidery, bias seamed satin were all elegant details that allowed the J. Mendel client to wrap themselves in the same amount of luxury with or without fur.  

As an embroidery designer, I drooled over these beautiful art deco inspired beading patterns.  Feeling like a contemporary Daisy Buchanan flirting with Gatsby? The embroidery looks so fantastic because of the delicate lines are all running down the curves of the body which is incredibly flattering.

I can's say every look was a success.  There was this one jacket with a fur peplum...What kind of woman wants a thick furry piece wrapped around her waist?  

The handbags were in traditional silhouettes, but the materials were ultra-luxe, with crocodile, mink, fox and treated leathers.  My personal favorite was that trimmed mink clutch with the jeweled handle.  Love. Want. Christmas is coming...

Will you be incorporating the fur trend into your fall wardrobe?

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Nanette Lepore Fall 2013

Utilitarian chic was paired with shimmering iridescent accessories for Nanette Lepore's fall 2013 runway.  Based on the designer's posts on social media, the inspiration for the collection was the Mars rover landing.  Nanette is one of the most prominent advocates for saving the Garment Center in New York City.  She produces much of her collection locally, which in itself is eco-friendly.

There were pretty prints in shades of olive and green that gave a hint of a camouflage pattern. Sequinned tops and skirts also had an enlarged version of these motifs that also hinted at military inspiration.  While the models did not sport crew cuts, the rigid posture of their walk complemented constructed jackets.  Handbags had prominent industrial hardware, but were made in brighter iridescent shades of khaki, red and green.  Shoes also had the galactic, shimmering finish in the heels or  entire platform shoes.  The contrast between the clothing and accessories kept it fun and young, but reflects how women dress today... You're on a mission (work) but want to escape far far away.

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Purse Lovers! Simone Handbag Museum

This has got to be the handbag and fashion lovers ultimate museum...The Simone Handbag Museum in Korea is a multi-story shrine to the fashionista's most necessary accessory and is actually built to resemble a purse!

How badass is that?  The team behind the museum are the masters of the handbag craft that include embroiderers, tailors, designers, restoration specialists, etc.  There are specially made mannequins, custom cast arms that were designed to display each handbag in optimum positions.  Historical bags that date as far back as 1550 are painstakingly restored. More contemporary pieces include a 2012 Celine tote and Alexander McQueen Union Jack purse.

Can't make it to Korea?  You're in luck.  Their website is fantastic.  You can click on the photos of their 300 handbags for a detailed image and description (yes, in English).  It also has extensive photos documenting the creation of the museum and mannequins that I found fascinating.

Think you're bag-obsessed now?  I think I enabled your addiction.

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NY FASHION WEEK: Anna Sui Fall 2013

Why do the models of an Anna Sui fashion show always look like they walked out of a Wes Anderson movie?  It's that quirky, bohemian chic.  This season, Ms. Sui seems to run out of NYC flea markets and shopped at the Paris ones.  The soundtrack to the show was 1960's inspired French pop.

The mixed geometric patterns and crafty-looking knits looked adorable.  The palette of coordinating brights and more subdued shades worked really well. While I often think much of Anna Sui's collections are immature, I grudgingly admit I would love to wear a lot of the looks on this season's runway. Perhaps I'm regressing. 

The over sized cross pendant necklace was the jewelry of choice.  The boxy handbags looked like the purses of my grandmother, except with a modern update of colorful fabrics.  Shoes had the same crafty look with a mix of coordinating colors that worked back to the clothing ensembles.

Until I become queen of my own Moonrise Kingdom, I'll be content with shopping off this runway...

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NY FASHION WEEK: Rebecca Minkoff Fall 2013

Some grunge, some futuristic chic. Rebecca Minkoff's Fall 2013 show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week was a collection for the "modern girl's manifesto".  The show opened with a great musical performance by Wild Cub.

This was a smorgasbord of high tech fabrics, leather, quilting and tailoring.  There was a mix of graphic prints mixed with color blocked jackets and pieces with leather contrast trim.  The last few dresses were super bright in color, with space age silhouettes.

Handbags are Rebecca's big claim to fame.  Her first fan was actress Jenna Elfman who still has that first bag today (she personally tweeted me confirmation of this).  For fall 2013, there was a noticeable reduction of the famous Mini-Mac bag and a large mix of new styles.  There were three-toned saddle bag styles, big bags to accommodate laptops and some fun purses with a holographic finish.

I think I always love Minkoff's collection because she designs for the lifestyles of women like herself. She is a new mother, and her business is a full family project.  This kind of support is something any designer would dream of.  Click here to see the full collection.

photos by David TW Leung

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