Bright Lights, Big City from Milly by Michelle Smith

Neon is still going strong.  Milly by Michelle Smith can always be counted on for a bright color palette and bold prints.  For Fall 2012, the designer and Mom sent out feminine flouncy skirts with lace overlays, variegated stripes, plaids and flattering color-blocked silhouettes.  Basic black was paired with high contrast white, royal blue, neon pink and acid yellow.

I am a black tights girl myself.  I also have a hard time breaking from my Gotham-mandated uniform of black in my wardrobe.  This collection gave me lots of high contrast options to pair with my existing noir garb.

Milly just did a fun collaboration with Topsiders this spring.  Based on Michelle Smith's final bow, I'm hoping for an adorable children's launch soon too!

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Shimmering Chic - Reem Acra Fall 2012

Love me some shimmer, how about you?  Reem Acra has always been the go-to designer for glamorous bridal creations.  Their New York Fashion Week show however, made a bid for all of your cocktail frock needs.  Lots of gold, silver, black sequins and beading sparkled down the runway.  1920's and 1970's influences shaped the silhouettes along with very simple mini dresses or maxi tank dresses.  

The collection was undeniably sexy while maintaining their elegant reputation.  Strategic cut-outs or the illusion of exposed skin underneath the embroidery was more tease than flash.  Hair was pulled back into a sleek ponytail.  Jewelry was minimal, letting the clothes to the talking.

Photos by David TW Leung

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True to Basics Tibi Fall 2012

There is something to be said for simplicity.  That seemed to be the rule for Tibi's Fall 2012 collection.  The first half was a mix of black and white separates.  Various scales of a pretty bird print were used, as well as some interesting textural applique finishes.  The second half were a mix of very basic silhouettes of straight skirts, straight cropped pants, boat neck tops and jackets without collars.  The color palette for these were deep, rich jewel tones of burgundy and teal with metallics.

OK, it's not earth shattering in forward design, but easily understood and wearable (translated: salable).  If you are being cautious in fashion for fear of the economic climate, designers go one of two ways.  Play it safe like Tibi, or go all out and risk it all to show something new that will inspire people to buy.  I have seen clothing brands try both, and only the cash register judges in the end.

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Subdued Cool at Richard Chai Fall 2012

Shout-out to my fellow Parsons School of Design alumni Richard Chai.  He has been one of the more notable successes from my graduation year.  He just landed a collaboration with boot brand Palladium and is the darling of men's and women's hipster threads.

At Parsons, we used to joke that black and grey were the official school colors.  It seems he brought that reference back as the first half of the show were variations of black and grey separates or stripes.  There was a bit more color added in the form of very subdued hues of navy and russet along with the black and grey.




This is a designer that manages to show men's and women's looks seamlessly, so they actually look like they come from the same collection.  Richard Chai isn't doing anything earth-shattering, but wearable.  Some of the jackets had odd proportions. The over-sized 3/4 coats on women looked like she was borrowing from her father, and the short, wide double breasted jackets on the men just looked ill fitting.

More school references... The giant backpacks seemed to be a throwback to all of the supplies we used to have to carry to class. At the risk of dating myself, Chai also had modernized versions of Morissey songs as the soundtrack.  It was the sleep-deprived student's anthem.

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English Socialites from Douglas Hannant Fall 2012

Wallis Simpson is having a huge revival these days.  Madonna made a movie about the controversial Duchess of Windsor and she was the muse for Douglas Hannant's collection for Fall 2012.  

The designer dressed up the NY Performing Arts Library to look like the English countryside in autumn.  The clothing was a mix of proper ladies suits, equestrian references with some sexy evening wear.  Checks and houndstooth were a dominant pattern.  Black, cream, purple and pumpkin were the popular colors of Hannant's palette.

Douglas Hannant has always catered to the socialite class of New York City.  This was reflected in the guests who attended the show.  The runway staging was definitely for their benefit, as the lighting certainly wasn't in the photographer's favor!

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Norisol Ferrari - Bespoke Punk Couture

 I met my new fashion heroine last week.  Her name is Norisol Ferrari.  She is a strong, Amazonian woman who makes no excuses for her super luxurious sable coats and makes no compromises in her quality and fit. She is often compared to Alexander McQueen, which she does not agree with, except to say they both are inspired by mens' tailoring and military uniforms.  Instead, she cites more historical references like Dior's New Look that she finds to be a muse, except she updates it with modern materials and some edgier gang references.  

She has very strong opinions on how many designers try to infantilize women.  She builds clothes for a woman's shape with an almost warrior-like passion.  Norisol has images of Frida Kahlo and Louise Brooks on her office wall.  She has trinkets and carved skulls from her travels and a wall of taxidermy to show her darker muses. 

Norisol proudly produces her collection with trusted artisans in New York.  She refuses to sell out or tailor her label to anything less than what truly inspires her, regardless of cost.  In this day of outsourcing and penny counting, her fashion manifesto is an career to look up to.

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How to Rock an Owl Hat - Anna Sui Fall 2012

Nostalgic for the 1990's?  Anna Sui looked like she was pining for the decade with her Fall 2012 show.  It
had the cutesy owl head hats and arts and crafts flea market look of the decade when she was most popular.  I loved the combination of tonal jewel colors.  I have a soft spot for quirky geek-chic as well, with several models in thick glasses.  The eclectic backdrop of the show had retro graphics that fit into the cutesy theme.

This show was, according to the burly male photographers, "where the cute Asian chicks are".  Yes, the Anna Sui fan is likely to be Asian, (specifically Japanese) and partial to prefer her fashion with animal characters attached.  Stateside, I would think her fans would be more junior, except the price point is high for the typical adolescent shopper.

The bird head headwear looks good with coordinating clothing. However, this winter, every side stand street vendor also had character hats too, for much less than what Ms. Sui retails her collection for.

Anna Sui was part of a new designer collaboration with Hush Puppies for spring 2012.  For this Fall 2012 show, she worked with footwear brands Ugglebo, Fiorentini + Baker and Ballin for the finale.  Back in the 1990's the heritage brand had a resurgence when the comfy shoes were adopted by Downtown hipsters.  It seems fitting then, that the designer would work with a fellow brand of the era to revive the look of that decade.

Photos by David TW Leung

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Farah Angsana Fall 2012

The jetsetting socialite was the muse for Farah Angsana's Fall 2012 collection.  It was parade of sexy evening looks that bared skin strategically.  One of the top trends of fall were the high slit skirts that showed off long legs. 

Shoulders were exposed, some decollete and impeccable embroidery helped create an alluring look. The colors ranged from black and white to bright red, orange, purple, sapphire and emerald green.  The fabrics were luxurious.  Drapey silks fluttered with movement on the runway.  Lace, metallic brocade and abstract prints rounded out the collection.

Photos by David TW Leung

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NY FASHION WEEK: Vivienne Tam Fall 2012

Rich colors of crimson, purple, brown and teal gave the Vivienne Tam collection a warm coziness this season.  Known for incorporating Asian motifs into her work, the fall collection was more subtle in its influence. 

 There was a dragon embroidery, some scrolls and a diagonal neck finish for references to Eastern style.  More striking, were the different scales of chevron patterns and ombre stripes.  As was the big trend for Fall 2012, fur collars were a major part of this collection.  For Vivienne Tam, they were often Mongolian lamb, dyed in complementary colors to the rich palette of the season.

Vivienne Tam is a designer I often buy for myself for their witty use of traditional images in pop colors.  I am a fan of her colors, her silhouettes and especially her prints!  I can't wait for this collection to hit the stores.

Spotted in the front row: Russell Simmons, Russell Kwong

Photos by David TW Leung

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Photographers Favorite - Zang Toi Fall 2012

There is no designer more admired among the crew in the photographer's pit than Zang Toi. The atmosphere at the front of the runway is more pirates’ crew than genteel fashion elite.  Most of the burly guys are just there to do a job.  Once in a while, there comes a fashion show like Zang Toi’s fall 2012 collection, which inspires the most jaded of shooters.

Why did he impress?  The lighting was favorable, a detail that a surprising number of designers ignore.   It didn’t hurt that he ran a rehearsal for the benefit of the photographers to prep their cameras before the rest of the audience was granted access.

 The models were seasoned.  They were real women who knew how to pose provocatively to accentuate each look.  Another detail taken for often granted: models that actually hold the pose long enough for the photographer to take the image.

The designer’s posh gowns filled the width of the runway with yards of satin and pure glamour.  Zang Toi truly knows how to make his clientele, his staff (and we lowly photographers) feel special.  He makes his socialites look gorgeous, and he constantly praises his staff.   I briefly worked with him in my early embroidery design days and he was always a class act.  In a first for fashion week, he actually thought to provide the photographers with boxed lunches of Malaysian curry buns and fruit before the show.  

After taking us to Morocco last season, Mr. Toi took us to Gstaad this season.  The color palette was simple, black, cream and red.  A bright red, orange and fushia tile print looked rich and modern.  The hair and makeup were classic 1940's Hollywood.  Gowns were long and fitted with some dramatic flair at the hem.  Some were embellished with embroidery, beading or sculpted shoulder details.  Day wear included luxurious Loro Piana suits and coats.  In the end, the guests stood up for another well earned standing ovation for the designer.  

Spotted in the front row: Real Housewife of NY Ramona Singer,  America's Next Top Model Eva Marcille

Photos by David TW Leung

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Elegant Warmth at J. Mendel Fall 2012

Fur was one of the biggest trends for Fall 2012 at NY fashion week.  The family business of J. Mendel has been doing fur for five generations.  For their runway show at Lincoln Center, Gilles Mendel presented a mix of chic evening wear and luxe fur dresses.

The evening looks were a mix of beaded art deco gowns or sexy dresses with strategic cut-outs.  The fur pieces ranged from hip vests to sheared, tailored dresses or cozy coats.  The color palette of this collection was warm, but basic.  Lots of brown tones, mustard, dramatic black and classic ivory went down the runway.

I have a lot of friends who are against fur, and were not too happy with the abundance of it this season.  While I am sympathetic to their views, I am not a vegetarian.  There are native cultures that survive on the fur trade.   There are very few companies where families are willing to continue on the tradition of their ancestors. How do you deny a family their legacy?

Photos by David T.W. Leung

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Luxe Dominatrix at Catherine Malandrino Fall 2012

Catherine Malandrino has always dressed the take-charge kind of woman.  For Fall 2012, the designer made it a bit more obvious with patent leather corsets and mane-like fur collars around the neck.  The presentation at Eyebeam Studios in Chelsea was sexy.  Beaded mesh mixed with embroidered leather and pailettes.  Tailored seaming flattered the right curves on the body as did strategic cutouts.  

The handbag of the day was a box-like lucite clutch.  The purse came in a myriad of sparkly or quartz bodies with sides of clear plastic and contrast colors.  The earring of choice was a series of dangled chains from a multi-hole ear cuff.  

This label is one I love to shop from (even more with a sample sale) because it is clearly designed by a woman for women who live my lifestyle.  There was a lot of black in different textures, with bright, right jewel tones of green, sapphire and fushia.  Powerful women look great in this collection, and who doesn't appreciate that?

Spotted mingling: Gossip Girl's Kelly Rutherford

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Red Carpet Drama from Monique Lhuillier Fall 2012

The Academy Awards are coming up next week.  The fishtail hem has been the most prominent trend this awards season.  Monique Lhuillier is a popular choice for celebrities looking to make an elegant impression. 

For her Fall 2012 collection, there were plenty of options for the red carpet.  My favorites were the fiery abstract prints in soft, gathered silks.  It was worked into gowns as well as shorter, day dresses.  Shaped leather details under the bust or at the waist gave many of her looks a sexier edge.  Not quite a corset, but they defined the waist and drew attention to the right curves.  The color palette had lots of black, maroon, red, brown and pewter.  Some shimmering embroidery and pieced lace brought extra luxury to some of the dresses as well.

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NY FASHION WEEK: Bibhu Mohapatra Fall 2012

Dreamy goldfishes floating down the runway.  At least that's how my father, the photographer described this show.  Bibhu Mohapatra has been on a stellar rise in recent years.  He is winning awards left and right, working along side of Prabal Garung and Waris Ahlwallia at the Fashion Incubator.   

His elegant evening gowns had a bit of 1930's silhouettes, fishtail hems and ombre colors.  Embellishments were strategically laid out to be the most flattering on (real) women's bodies.  The inspiration for this collection was Chinese opera, like the legendary tale of the white haired lady.  

photos by David TW Leung

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Eastern Style of Josie Natori Fall 2012

Ancient art met modern zen for the Josie Natori presentation at the Rubi Museum of NYC.  The designer known mainly for intimate apparel brought out a retro Mongolian-inspired collection with deep black, cream and red colors.

The kimono was clearly a muse, as variations on the silhouette were interpreted in several ways.  Soft and built around the shoulder, or as an exaggerated jacket to accentuate sleeves.  While the looks clearly referenced traditional clothing items of Chinese and Japanese origin, Ms. Natori drew from that to create a fresh sportswear collection with bold Asian prints on chic black backgrounds.

Dark vamp lipstick was paired with 1920's waves or 1930's curls.  Accessories included feathered fans and fan pleated clutch handbags.

The presentation of having coiffed models saunter down a spiral staircase really helped to create drama.  It was like watching 1930's screen goddesses materialize out of an opium daze into daylight.  Beautiful!


Photos by Ching Leung
 

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NY FASHION WEEK: Betsey Johnson Fall 2012

If the three hour photographer waiting line for this show wasn't an indication, then the packed theater at Lincoln Center Monday proved Betsey Johnson was the hottest fashion show this season.  Fall 2012 for the fashion icon included big fur faux wraps and collars.

There were cheeky cocktail dresses with flouncy skirts, mini shorts and mini skirts with colored tights.  Also, slim, cigarette trousers and wildly printed blouses and tea dresses the designer is known for.  Coats were A-line or a fit and flare silhouette.  There were graphic black and white looks, with stripes or bold motifs.  Then the ultra-girly pinks, teal and purples of her signature palette.

Accessories included brightly colored fedoras and large pieced clutch bags in harlequin colors.  Jewelry was flash, fun and not to be taken too seriously.

All three generations of Johnson ladies walked the runway for the finale.  The little lady and Mom, Lulu Johnson flaunted complementary pink dresses.  Grandma Betsey led a cheer leading squad after her signature cartwheel and even a quick split landing.  Rock on Betsey!

Photos by David TW Leung

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Neon Pop L.A.M.B. from Gwen Stefani Fall 2012

Pop art and music go hand in hand. Pop icon Gwen Stefani merged the two into a bright, fresh update on 1980's style references along with 1960's sweater girls.

The Fall 2012 collection for L.A.M.B. Had a vivid palette of black, white, yellow and neon colors. Soft shoulder graphic t-shirts mixed with tailored suits in oversized neon houndstooth prints.  Big pop graphics and retro glen plaids mixed with short skirts and cigarette pants.

Handbags ranged from simple clutches with the houndstooth motif, to extra large patent neon or glossy black carryalls.  The hair was swept up in one of the season's most popular up-dos.  The semi-beehive with long hair at the back.

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NYC's Hottest Guys at Kohl's Rock & Republic Launch

 Friday night, the famed Hammerstein Ballroom in New York hosted the city's hottest men.  ON the runway, a diverse mix of fit male models strutted out in edgy looks from Rock & Republic's new collection from Kohl's.  

Vests were tailored to show off the perfect chest or muscled arms.  Motorcycle jackets gave an edgy look over rock and roll printed graphic tees.  Jeans were long, straight with a great dark, and colored washes.  Accessories included cuffs, heavy belts and darted necklaces.  Athletic shoes were studded, crinkled leather dress shoes were posh.

Off the runway and down the red carpet, a dream team of hearthrobs from the show "Gossip Girl" made an appearance.  Representing both the tailored look and the scruffy ends of the spectrum, Ed Westwick and 

Penn Badgley made our GLAM blogger team swoon.  

More than a fashion show, it was a big party!  We danced with all the male eye candy to DJ Ruckus and I got to have my guy test drive the Rock & Republic jeans and tee at the end of the night.

Dan or Chuck?   Which runway look rocked your world?

Discuss below in our Rock & Republic chat!

Kohl's provided compensation to me as an incentive to blog about the Rock & Republic launch event.  The opinions expressed herein are those of this author, and they have not been reviewed or approved by Kohl's in advance.

Photos by Mariana Leung and Glam director Robert McConnell   

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