NYFW Menswear: General Idea Fall 2016

Rugged and crafted. Korean designer Choi Bum Suk presented a tightly edited collection at New York Fashion Week Men's. The General Idea collection had a color palette of navy, camel, brown with black and white. The most notable features, however, were the oversized details. Zippers, eyelets and pockets were exaggerated in size.

The overall look was urban cowboy. The rustic edge to the collection was not meant for actually roughing it anywhere with real dirt or outdoor work. It was more of an attitude, like a Western set in the middle of Downtown Seoul. The styling of each piece was well thought out. From the multiple textures of the trims, (leather, or vinyl, or wool contrasted with other fabrics or colors) to the overall drape and layering of the pieces to form the entire outfit.

Accessories were a major part of this runway. There were chokers and hats. The sunglasses had a unique octagon shape. The bags offered great alternatives to the typical men's offerings. An over-sized flat envelope bag acted as a funky alternative to a briefcase. A top-handled bulky flap backpack with giant eyelets was a good option for a carry-all. Thick soled shoes with a rich, gradient polish in the deep navy hues of the clothing looked great with the outfits.

I don't quite have a sense of who the General Idea customer is yet. I do know that I like what I see as a whole from this label. It's tough to be a lone wolf designer in this field of fashion. I wish Choi Bum Suk the best of luck.

photos courtesy of the designer

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Son Jung Wan Spring 2016

Korea's favorite designer Son Jung Wan was inspired by the "Gentle beauty of nature" for her New York Fashion Week show for spring 2016. Specifically, her muse was the gorgeous, volcanic island of Jeju in South Korea.

I couldn't immediately see the connection with the aquatic treasure and nature. The fabrics had pretty pastel and metallic finishes. The cuts were sleek and angled for many of the looks. I soon realized that the asymmetric silhouettes were more of an abstract reference to the volcanic structures on the land. I found some photos of the island that showed the delicate flowers that grow there. There were a few looks where the petal embroidery emulated that:

The frosted pink shade and sharp cuts of both the long and short dresses that they were designed for perfectly embodied Pantone's Color of the Year of Rose Quartz. Deeper green and blue hues took their muse from the surrounding island sea and foliage.

While most of Son Jung Wan's fan base is in Korea, she is quickly gaining some famous fans Stateside. The star model of the runway was Ireland Baldwin while Gossip Girl's Kelly Rutherford ran up to give the designer a supportive hug in the finale.

I love how Son Jung Wan's collection always looks sophisticated and feminine without being girly. She can bring in the pastels and embellishments but executes them in a mature way so that grown-ups actually want to wear them. I don't know why that's such a surprise, I think I have had too many bad shopping trips in Asia where high-pitched salesgirls try to bombard me with too frilly bows and pink. Spring 2016 is for the lady, not the baby.

photos by Mariana Leung

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Iijin Spring 2016

This was one of those under-attended fashion shows of NY Fashion Week. A victim of the multiple venues and triple booking across town. It was a shame. This Asian label had very cute streetwear and collegiate fashion. It mixed academic stripes with elements of school uniforms. There were some great street art inspired prints mixed in with metallic, tropical floral patterns and embroidery. 

While the collection was wearable, it was far from boring. They have a funky shoe collection that mixed heavily embellished sneakers with fringed boots and running shoes with epic high platforms. 

Creative director Cassian Lau and his wife June Lee pooled their art, retail and business talents to create this label. Lau's first love was with his work as an illustrator and cartoonist, where you see his graphic talents on the prints and umbrellas that guests took home. Street dancers entertained the modest crowd at the end of the fashion show.

A hit brand in Asia, Iijin is only getting started here in North America. 

photos by Mariana Leung

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#NYFW: Son Jung Wan Fall 2015

Korean designer Son Jung Wan was inspired by MGM films of the 1950's with their romantic fantasies.  The classic Hollywood glamour of rich furs and sequins was at play on the runway. There were tailored jackets and demure pointed collars that were embellished. A silver palette of shimmering celadon green, taupe and silver gave way to Technicolor orange and purple.

The outfits were generally long. Long coats, trousers, and long skirts were meant to be ladylike. Lots of metallic fabrics were used to offset the cozy cashmere coats. Matched sets of boxy silhouettes remind me of the looks of Hitchcock heroines. There were a lot of outerwear appropriate looks matched with tailoring fabrics wool herringbone. 

While Son Jung Wan may have looked to the past as her muse, her collection took a modern approach to pairing textures and fabric. Her finale gave the cutest moment of NY Fashion Week so far when friend and Gossip Girl actress Kelly Rutherford jumped up and hugged her.

photos by Mariana Leung

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LIE SANGBONG's Dream Road - Spring 2015

Korean designer Lie Sang Bong has had a long career with his collection, creating stylish confections inspired by everything from calligraphy to film noir heroines. The designer just opened his first boutique in New York in the Meatpacking District but already has fans in celebrities like Beyonce and Lady Gaga.

For his spring 2015 collection however, the designer dedicated his Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week show to the young victims of the capsized South Korean ferry the MV Sewol.

This was by no means a morbid, sad presentation though. LieSang Bong collaborated with artist Jang Seong Hyo to create a “dream road”. They created a runway of beautiful glass tiles featuring motifs of clouds and florals to represent rebirth and optimism, a “path to the sky”.

The fashions themselves were designed to be uplifting. There were hopeful motifs of clouds, butterflies and a magical garden of blooms across form fitting gowns.  Lie Sang Bong has always dedicated his design practice in exploring the most innovative techniques like laser cutting and digital printing along with traditional crafts like hand embroidery.

Fashion can often be accused of being frivolous or purely commercial. However, there are those designers who approach this craft as an art form. Artist Ai Wei Wei created a spectacular backpack installation in remembrance of the young victims of an earthquake. Does a fashion designer who produces a beautiful collection in memory of ferry victims also have artistic merit? Can a pretty dress by Lie Sang Bong also be meaningful? Why does art stop being art when it is purchased and worn on a body? 

photos by Vladimir Weinstein

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#NYFW: Son Jung Wan Spring 2015

Designer Son Jung Wan was inspired by the concept of Yin and Yang for her spring 2015 collection at Mercedes Benz fashion week.

This concept was expressed in the pairing of rough, hemp fabrics with raw edges with delicate silk.  There was also a color yin and yang in the look of dark rich colors paired with metallic thread details that looked an outfit was struck by a lightning bolt.

Menswear looks included sweaters combining thick, chunky yarns with super light, sheer knits. Each sweater was paired with shorts.  Apparently the men in this world don’t get cold.

While there were plenty of gorgeous looks in Ivory and pastel, the best looks came from a group of clothes in bright jewel tones.  Too many designers fall back on traditional colors they think are warm weather appropriate, but more and more designers like Son Jung Wan understand that customers are gravitating towards seasonless color palettes.

The pastels that the designer did offer were not twee candy colored pieces.  She amped them up to iridescent sparkling creations.  Many of the pieces were embroidered with a combination of solid colored jewels, pearl finish and lenticular illusion pailettes.  This was a great upgrade a fabric that can easily look cheap if not executed well.

I always enjoy Son Jung Wan’s collection as one I would wear.  Unfortunately, even after 8 seasons of showing at Lincoln Center, you would be hard-pressed to find her work in stores here.  You could order from her site, but the online shopping experience leaves a lot to be desired.  The shop does not have a size guide or description of the items.

For now, the collection creates a beautiful picture.  Somehow, I assume she has bigger ambitions than that.

photos by Mariana Leung

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Son Jung Wan Spring 2014

Serenity now.  Son Jung Wan's Spring 2014 collection for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week took its inspiration from Morocco.  The reference is not immediately recognized, no dark djellabas or dowdy head wraps.  Instead, think relaxation in a private riad, watching a North African sunset.  The colors she used included pretty pink, tangerine and sunny yellows against shimmering ivory silk.

The first part of the show included a lot of origami-type folds and raw edged fabrics.  While this doesn't sound Moroccan, I found similar folded techniques in the leather goods of Fez.  There were some short hemlines for this light spring collection, which I can definitely say I did not see in Morocco.

Design details in this collection included a criss-cross lattice technique that was found on necklines and hems.  The lattice look was also carried into the platform sandals on the runway.  The criss cross look also was echoed in some of the bead and sequin embroidery.  Sequin and bead embroidery.

Son Jung Wan always does a pretty and wearable collection each season at NY fashion week.  I wish it was easier to find in local stores.  It is also refreshing not to have to see a collection theme taken literally.  Who needs to see a camel on a catwalk?

photos by Mariana Leung

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Concept Korea Fall 2013

This season's crop of fashion designers at NY Fashion Week's Concept Korea show was a graphic bunch. The group of designers here presented under the general theme of "Rhythm of Korea" and were hand-picked by fashion power personalities like Fern Mallis and Opening Ceremony's Carol Song.

 Choi Bo Ko, under the label ChoiBoko created a bold collection of looks that blended calligraphy and graffiti art.  Some of the motifs looked like native tribal symbols as well.  The pieces looked warm and layered outerwear with warm sportswear pieces.  The designer favored luxury fabrics like mink, merino wool and shearling.

Son Jung Wan is already a known favorite to represent Korean design.  She already has her own solo show at NY Fashion Week, but shares this runway with her country-mates.  Like previous seasons, Son Jung Wan uses rich dark colors coordinated with pretty prints.  The silhouettes had a hint of retro glam.  The collection was very polished and wearable.

Lie Sang Bong's collection at first looks like a very ladylike, vintage inspired group.  Upon closer inspection you realize the graphic stripe and distorted plaid patterns are printed stripes of techie neoprene.

Now if only the politics of this country was as evolved as its fashion design...

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K-Fashion Party at the Dream Hotel

 The Dream Hotel in the Meatpacking District hosted a celebration of Korean Fashion Thursday night.  The party and presentation was styled by the fabulous Patricia Field of Sex and the City fame.  Designers Morine Comte Marant and Buckaroo Jeans were featured, drawing out fashion characters like 90's club  scene regulars Richie Rich, The Blonds and longtime fashion reporter Cognac Wellerlane. 

Korean appetizers, sweets, and K-Pop music were served up.  No appearance from Gangnam Style's PSY, instead, a robot took his place to perform the moves.

 The running theme was Good Girls Loving Bad Boys.  The bright prints of Morine's flirty dresses and the rebellious denim of Buckaroo jeans on the male mannequins made this shindig look like the most stylish episode of The Twilight Zone ever...

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D2 Presents Post December and Sookei Spring 2012

Fresh designer discovery!  Friday night, in a gala by non-profit D2 (Designers of 2nd Generation) debuted two Korean designers to NYC.  

The first was Sohyan Bhaak's collection, Post December.  This was Ms. Bhaak's third season in business, already selling well in Korea.  Her inspiration this season was the gladiolas.  The silhouettes of the clothing falling like petals.  Bright colors of orange and electric blue contrasted neutral cream and beige for contemporary, fashion forward sportswear.

The second designer to show Friday evening was Soo Kei.  Her background was rooted in architecture before her interest in fashion brought her to F.I.T.  The construction and tailoring of her pieces shows the architecture background, while the unusual play of proportions show off a more avant-garde nature.  The collection had a very monochromatic palette of off-white with hints of grey, as Soo Kei was inspired by the softness of the cotton fabric she used. 

The evening ended with scholarships being awarded to promising fashion students.  D2 certainly has an eye for talent.  Previous designers they have supported include accessories darling Eugenia Kim and Gen Art's new star, Jennifer Chun.  

 So what do you think of these new trendsetters of the East?  Take a chance and discover their style before the rest of the masses. 

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Son Jung Wan Spring 2012

One of Korea's top fashion designers landed Stateside via Capri, Italy to show her collection at NY Fashion Week.  Designer Son Jung Wan was inspired by the pretty Italian island for Spring 2012.  She brought the blues of the water into palette, and used silk chiffon to represent the fluidity.  Shimmering golds, sand and ivory represented the landscape and surrounding caves.

The silhouettes were clean, sexy, flattering.  The looks were fashion forward, but not overly trendy.  They were young, sophisticated and exactly what many New York women would want to wear.  The designer added a few menswear pieces that blended seamlessly into the aesthetic.

For more on the styling concept of the show, and Son Jung Wan's journey to New York designer, check out Mdivani Monroe's backstage interviews:

When it comes to fashion,  Son Jung Wan has no problem adapting from East to West.

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