Carmen Marc Valvo Spring 2017

What is white and red and black all over? Carmen Marc Valvo's Spring 2017 collection reminded me of a childhood riddle with its streamlined color palette. I interned for the designer wayyyy back in my Parsons days studying fashion design. Back then, it was all about evening wear.

This season, Valvo showed clean, updated looks in evening wear, day wear, swimwear, and menswear. The theme of stripes, luxury fabrics, and delicate flowers was consistent across all categories. The Carmen Marc Valvo looks from my intern days were perfect for the opera, red carpets, simple weddings. Today, the long dresses could do that, but shorter dresses could take you to more casual destinations. While some silhouettes were structured to be formal-appropriate, other pieces had more relaxed fits. The separates could be dressy or could be your statement piece paired with jeans. Fashion rules had relaxed and been updated. Instead of satin strappy heels, runway looks were accessorized with sneakers and color coordinated flat sandals.

Both men and women were styled with curls. On the gents, loose curls were favored, but on the female models, the hair was sleek at the crown with full doll curls for the rest, styled with a bow. The women's hair was cute but seemed a bit at odds with the more updated, relaxed look of the shoes and clothing.

It is funny that so many of my dearest friends and colleagues in the industry have all worked or interned at Carmen Marc Valvo at some point. I don't know if he attracts like-minded people or it was just a coincidence. I wonder if the team behind his Spring 2017 collection will also find themselves close friends 20 years from now too?

Oh, the answer to the riddle? Take your pick: A) an embarrassed zebra or B) Make it a pun by substituting "red" for "read", making it a newspaper.

photos by Mariana Leung

Also on Ms. Fabulous:

Leanne Marshall's Goddess Dressing

Zang Toi's Giverny Journey

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NYFW: Carmen Marc Valvo Fall 2016 - Dark Elegance

The opening page of Carmen Marc Valvo's Fall 2016 run of show started with a poem listing muses of sequins, moonlit nights, champagne, caviar, laquered lace, serpentine scrolls and starry skies gilded with gold. Clearly Mr. Valvo was in quite the romantic mood when he conceived of this collection.

Indeed his latest eveningwear runway did reflect this poem. There was a lot of gold and seductive silhouettes. The color black dominated many of the looks. There were luxurious touches of cashmere and mink that is an upgrade from the collection I interned for over 20 years ago. Menswear was also not a part of the Carmen Marc Valvo brand back in my day, but it looked great on the runway.

Most of the dresses were very long, lean and fit close to the body for a sultry looks when the model walked. If you have fit arms, this was the collection to show them off. Metallic accents like gold metallic large flowers and leaves were a pretty accent against a stark black ground. The lacquered sequins and lace gave an elegant, more contemporary look to the classic dress shapes.

Working with Carmen Marc Valvo and many of his team was a highlight of my school days at Parsons School of Design. Many of the team have moved on since then and I am happy to say we are still friends. Carmen himself has gone through some big challenges and I am glad to see he has come out a better designer than ever.

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Carmen Marc Valvo Spring 2016

The runway was a parade of Eastern chic for Carmen Marc Valvo's spring 2016 collection. The color palette was a stark black and white with deep red as an accent color. There was a continuous theme of brushstrokes as a motif. It was in painterly prints but also echoed in the embroidery.

The designer used a mix of leather and python paired with delicate soft silks. When combined together into a longer gown, the effect was sexy and edgy on top, flowing into feminine and soft at the bottom. The bodice often had a sporty, sharp cut neckline or shoulder treatment while the skirts were full and sweeping.

When I worked for Carmen Marc Valvo as an intern wayyyy back in my Parsons School of Design days, there was a lot of beading, embellished cocktail dresses and gowns. There were fancy suits that appealed to a mother of the bride. This runway show has shown that his label has branched out into swimwear and menswear with the same level of luxury and design. Men's jackets had the painted prints. The swimsuits carried through the looks of the red carpet gown so you can continue the black tie aesthetic from pool to gala.

The inky prints included abstract brushstrokes to whooping crane paintings that looked like traditional sumi-e art. There were floral patterns in all size scales. They ranged from dainty floating flowers to giant blooms that read more like a painted texture.

For the makeup, however, the stylists opted for exaggerated slanted eye makeup, almost like an Asian cliche. I felt this was tacky and unnecessary to get the theme across. The clothing spoke for itself. The hair was slicked back and simple. The shoes were rather minimal with wide straps around the ankle and front foot.

Carmen Marc Valvo's spring 2016 collection was a pretty one. This is another designer I would love to see more of during awards season. The designers loyal fans would agree. I have met some longtime friends during my short internship at this label. I love a company that produces relationships as much as it does dresses.

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Wizard of Oz - Leading Ladies Re-Imagined

No, this isn't Kansas.  Warner Brothers and Tonner Dolls have combined forces with 20 fashion designers to create one-of-a-kind dolls to celebrate the 75th Anniversary of the Wizard of Oz movie.  Designers like Reem Acra, Betsey Johnson, Chris Benz, Byron Lars, Donna Karan, Jenny Packham  and Colleen Atwood to name a few, sketched and created couture ensembles for the collectible Tonner Dolls. 

Above are a few preview sketches from different designers.  They were tasked with re-imagining the characters of Glinda the Good Witch, The Wicked Witch and of course, Dorothy herself.  Byron Lars re-imagined a post-apocalyptic Dorothy who has been hardened by the loss of her dog and fighting it out against the world.   Yours truly contributed the graphic designs for the tattoo and t-shirt to this doll.

 Reem Acra re-designed Dorothy's classic gingham ensemble as an elegant ballgown.  Carmen Marc Valvo gave Glinda a modern red carpet makeover. Betsey Johnson interpreted Glenda as a punk godmother, eerily similar to herself.  Lyn Paolo (top) saw the Wicked Width as a vintage vamp.  Douglas Hannant saw the sorceress as sexy screen siren in fur.  Watching the process, I can tell you that Tonner Dolls handpainted the facial features onto each doll (they definitely don't mass manufacture the fierce attitude I saw on the Byron Lars doll!)  Each designer was responsible for making the unique outfit that the doll wore.

The actual dolls will be unveiled at the Fashion Institute of Technology to coincide with NY Fashion Week.  The dolls will be up for auction to benefit Habit for Humanity as part of their "There's No Place Like Home" campaign. Habitat for Humanity is an organization whose mission is to build decent, affordable homes for low income families around the world.

I know I personally fantasized about Dorothy's flared blue gingham dress and the big pink pile of organza that was Glinda's ballgown when I watched the movie as a child.  You can see it inspired plenty of other fashion creators like myself.  The fact that it brought so many of them together for a great cause is that much more beautiful.   I can only hope they present them on a giant yellow brick runway... 

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Carmen Marc Valvo's Dark Lady - Fall 2014

 The Lady Noir...Carmen Marc Valvo ran a dark, dramatic runway at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.  The walls were black, the runway was black and then most of the collection was also black.  If you are a New Yorker, this ratio seems about right.  With spots of deep red and sapphire blue as contrast and metallic gun metal for shine, this was a palette that Manhattan ladies undersand.

One of my first internships in fashion was with Carmen.  I recognized his signature slim long silhouettes, embroidered textured fabrics and coordinating toppers.  He chose a slimming colorblock technique of a contrast piece from the bust down to the hem.  Embellishments of metal sequins and pewter fabric appliques were highlighted down a bodice or framing it around the armhole.

The styling gave it a more Downtown edge.  Severe eye makeup and brows with nude lips were paired with short or pulled back hair topped with an adapted mohawk.  This looked great on some models, a few however, had an ironic femme-toupee look.

I have to believe that the women in Carmen Marc Valvo's life must be strong.  Most runway models are disturbingly thin, but the ladies from this show sported some sculpted arms. It's quite possible that it was the cut of the dress that displayed the "guns" to such advantage.  If that's the case, I'm all in.

Photos by David Tak-Wai Leung

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NY FASHION WEEK: Carmen Marc Valvo Spring 2014

It's fashion from the future!  Fashion designer Carmen Marc Valvo's spring 2014 collection channeled Blade Runner's Pris and Lilu from the Fifth Element.  The two-toned blunt haircuts, graphic body conscious lines, the models looked like they had just stepped out of a fashionable sci-fi film and onto the runway.  

I briefly worked at Carmen Marc Valvo while I was still in school at Parsons.  Two of my best friends at school had also worked there.  The collection was always elegant, with pretty beaded embellishment.  It was smartly merchandised to make brides, socialites and their mothers happy.  

While this collection was an interesting departure from his known aesthetic, will it scare away their core customer?  Some looks were very flattering with the seams and lines contouring the body. They could look like an elegant evolution of activewear.  However, some looks wrapped around the body in a horizontal way that gave it the look of a towel wrapped around the torso.  It wasn't tailored enough to be flattering and not loose enough for a big easy silhouette either.  With the exception of a few pastel pieces in the beginning, the collection remained grey, black and white. 

What do you think?  Do you love future Carmen as much as classic Carmen?

original photos by David TW Leung

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NY FASHION WEEK: Carmen Marc Valvo Fall 2013

I love dark glamour.  Carmen Marc Valvo's fall 2013 collection used my favorite colors of black, deep violet, oxblood and white.  There was some beautiful beading, leather piecing and luxurious fur.

The designer seemed to take some of his inspiration from the same muse as many other designers this season.  The mix of dramatic fur, and sweeping skirts mixed with jet crystal beading looks right at home on a Russian aristocrat of years past.

 This design house was one of my first jobs in the fashion industry.  I was an assistant in the sales department one summer while I was at Parsons.  My good friends were interns in the design department.  It was my first time working somewhere with so much elegance.  Carmen was accessible to everyone, even the interns.   Almost 20 years later, someone I worked with who had started at the bottom has now worked his way up to creative director behind this gorgeous show.  Let that be a lesson to those who think that jumping around from company to company is the way to go.

Take a look at the full collection here.
Photos by Mariana Leung

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Think Pink - October's Hottest Color

Yes,October is Pink Ribbon month to promote Breast Cancer awareness and raise money to find a cure.  Too many women have been challenged by this disease, many in fashion.  As a collective response, many fashion companies of collaborated with organizations to fight this killer.  The Council of Fashion Designers in America founded Fashion Targets Breast Cancer with a t-shirt campaign.

The current queen of pink, Betsey Johnson was a survivor.  She has designed a collection of jewelry where the profits will be sold to benefit Fashion Targets Breast Cancer.  My favorite piece is the Betsey Johnson "I'm A Survivor" Pink Ribbon Ring.

For local efforts, Dress Barn launched Paint the Country Pink where site visitors can "paint" across a map to show support for the cause.  Dress Barn will donate $1 for every painter who colors the site to the American Cancer Society.

Luxury resale marketplace, Hello la Mode is offering shoppers $50 off any pink fashion item on the site (use gift code: PINK).  They will be donating 25% of the purchase price of every pink item sold to the Pink Ribbon International. 

In Canada, the 9th annual White Cashmere Fashion show brought together Canada's top fashion designers for an event in Toronto.  If you weren't there, you can vote on the your favorite design by voting online and $1 will be donated for every vote to the Canadian Breast Cancer Foundation.  (Photos from heydoyou.com

Designer Carmen Marc Valvo just hosted a Pink Ribbon fashion show in Tulsa with Saks Fifth Avenue.  The event was the 10th for the designer, a cancer survivor himself.  The fundraiser benefits Oklahoma Project Woman, which provides free mammograms and diagnostic services for residents with no insurance or financial hardship.

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Fashion Fights Cancer - Global Fashion Fight

Some of NYC's top beautiful people were at Central Park West last night to raise money for Fashion Fights Cancer's Global Fashion Fight. Supermodel Claudia Mason and a few pageant queens graced the event, along with designers and other glitterati. The organization, founded by exec Ty Canty serves to nurture cancer patients through fashion and design in addition to raising funds to cancer research.  

The benefit evening included a wine reception and designer sample sale to benefit the cause.  The venue was a gallery exhibit of gorgeous fashion photographs by Chayo Mato.  The subjects were fierce, style personalities who have been touched by different forms of cancer.   I was particularly touched seeing people I have known and worked with in the photographs, like designer Carmen Marc Valvo.  It served to remind me once again, how often, how directly it affects everyone's lives.  

To volunteer or donate, follow through here.

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NY Fashion Week: Barbie's 50th Anniversary Fashion Show

Pop culture and fashion icon Barbie celebrated her 50th anniversary on Valentine’s Day at Bryant Park. It was a glorious fashion show featuring the works of 52 designers who were inspired by Barbie.

The show’s audience contained the usual fashion editors, industry vets. It was also attended by celebrities like Heidi Klum and Kellie Pickler as well as many young Barbie fans who were incredibly excited to see their heroine. While waiting to enter the tent, I waited next to famed photographer Annie Leibowitz. Only in hindsight, did I think of playing naïve and asking her to take a quickie photo of me with my digital camera, (talk about a Facebook pic with serious bragging rights!)

This was probably the most fun and flamboyant show I have seen in ages, (as most apparel companies are no longer spending money on this kind of stuff… sigh). Jaded industry vets were no match for the infectious music, cute factor and drama of the outfits on the runway.

The presentation was divided into three acts, the first showcased retro-inspired outfits from designers like Monique Lhuillier, Michael Kors, and Carmen Marc Valvo. They represented Barbie through the decades with glamorous evening gowns and jeweled accessories. The next act, the “Faux Reality” act represented modern and contemporary Barbie with hipster contributions from the likes of Diane von Furstenburg (above) and Baby Phat (above). The last act was inspired by Barbie of the future, with a lot of metallics and funky clear vinyl from designers like Calvin Klein, Betsey Johnson and getting the biggest applause of the day, Bob Mackie (above).

Guests were treated to a great soundtrack of strong women, and tongue-in-cheek selections (”Doll Parts” by Hole opened the show – so wrong and so right). The most entertaining moments was undoubtedly the excitement on little girl’s faces when they saw the pink-ribboned box on their chair. Each seated attendee was gifted with Barbie chocolates by Dylan’s Candy Bar and a limited edition Debut Barbie Fashion Model doll.

Two floor length video screens acted as curtains and projected a sparkling set, the history of Barbie, the multi-ethnic faces of the doll and split apart for the models to make their entrance on the runway.

I am personally ecstatic to finally own my first Barbie doll, (about 25 years after I first asked my parents for one). Why the delay? My parents refused to buy me a doll because they did not want me to grow up with “An unhealthy pre-occupation with frivolous things like fashion”.

Yep, that made me laugh too.
photos by Kris Krug

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