#NYFW: Vivienne Tam Fall 2015

Happy Chinese new year!  Vivienne Tam's Fall 2015 collection brought the opulence of Chinoiserie as seen through the eyes of Europeans when they first encountered Asian culture. So what exactly does that mean?
You see high-necked silhouettes popular in the Victorian era. Nature illustrations were popular in the 1700's and 1800's in Europe. In this collection, there was a fusion of those illustrations mixed with traditional Chinese motifs of cranes and cherry blossoms in  beautiful prints on the fabric (always loved Vivienne Tam prints).

photos by Mariana Leung

The sexiest looks were the cocktail length dresses with A-line skirt with the bodice framed in lace applique. The lace motifs echoed baroque furniture lines popular in the Victoria era. The other Asian Euro fusion combo? Grey wooly tartans were paired with soft silk printed dresses. Proper British peacoats were a part of more tailored looks.

Vivienne Tam continued her use of high tech fabrics like power mesh and neoprene to execute classical cultural motifs. I have always loved her aesthetic of taking traditional elements of her heritage and breaking them out to contemporary pop art fashion trends.

Now, if I get enough red envelopes today, Vivienne Tam's boutique is where I will be spending them!

Read more >>

Anna Sui's Opium Den - Fall 2014

Vintage Chinoiserie and 90's Bohemia mated on Anna Sui's Fall 2014 runway.  The dark berry bow-lips and bobbed haircuts were reminiscent of old 1930's 'beauty" advertising.  Bright prints in Anna Sui's signature purples.

The soundtrack with retro racial stereotypes could have been considered highly offensive.  I suppose in Anna Sui's hands, it was meant to be an ironic poke at them to demonstrate how this collection was intended as a twist of traditional Asian motifs.  The contemporary take on Asian motifs theme has always been done very well by Vivienne Tam, I guess Ms. Sui wanted to give it a try.

Some of the looks were pretty and will no doubt have her hardcore fans drooling.  Her flea market look from the brand's inception is still consistent now, forever trying to capture the club kids and hipsters of the designer's youth.  However, the entire run of NY fashion week was filled with rich, luxurious furs, so the cheaper, fake fur qualities on this runway looked poor in comparison.

Much more successful were the accessories on offer.  Anna Sui's color blocked seamed footwear and handbags were a lot more fun.  The long, orientalist ornamental necklaces could give a dramatic look to any simple outfit.
Photos by Mariana Leung

Read more >>

Vivienne Tam Spring 2012

The Queen of Pop-Art Chinoiserie.  Vivienne Tam created a niche of contemporary designer sportswear inspired by traditional Chinese motifs reborn as ironic design.  She first made waves re-interpreting images of Mao in a Warhol-esque palette.  Since then, she has introduced delicate embroideries into cutting edge looks and high-tech digital printing for her signature pop prints.

For Spring 2012, these trademarks were translated into pretty, ladylike silhouettes, but at sexy lengths.  Miniskirts were paired with embroidered or transparent print blouses.  Appliques and more embroidery framed necklines and bodylines in a flattering way.  The colors were tonal shades of celadon, blues, greens or violet, coral, cream and pinks.  They looked like a bolder, more cosmopolitan idea of pastels for the urban girl who really doesn't do pastels (like me).  

Ms. Tam's shows during NY Fashion Week are one of the favorites I look forward to every season, and I'm there with my nose pressed up against the glass at her Soho boutique and sample sales.  

Read more >>