#WMCFW: Hilary MacMillan Fall 2015

Another family affair, this time in Toronto. Canadian designer Hilary MacMillan's relatively new fashion label is known for its mix of luxurious fabrics and a signature print she develops every season. For fall 2015, she collaborated with members of her family to create a darker, rose and skeleton print.

The color palette was cream, black, bright and dark blood red. While it isn't obvious, the muse behind this season's collection was the Mexican holiday of Day of the Dead. The fashion show combined satins and leather, silk and knits. There were a lot of separates with updated proportions. Long topper jackets were paired with crop tops, loose pants that ended below the knee and jackets with elbow length sleeves. The models sported smokey eyes and slicked "wet look" hair (or they just ran out of the shower onto the runway).

Macmillan put the show in the fashion show, with the band St. Royals entertaining the guests. Guests included the who's who of Canadian showbiz personalities, like 24's Elisha Cuthbert and TV's Supernatural's Richard De Klerk.

Hilary MacMillan is committed to designing and manufacturing her label within Canada. She designs for the modern urban woman like herself. In a short time she has already made fans of all the top Canadian magazines. When you're on a roll, just enjoy the ride!

photos by George Pimentel

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#WMCFW: Christopher Bates Spring 2015 Menswear

I love the Christopher Bates Menswear show at Toronto Fashion Week.  His runway is always a treat to the ladies (or men) with a debonair line up of gorgeous gentlemen in fantasy characters (ok I am projecting). 

Christopher Bates always produces a sophisticated menswear collection with roots in Italian tailoring, but approachable to the most basic of fashion-shy males.  For spring 2015, his World Mastercard Fashion Week collection was inspired by the movie The English Patient.  You see the influence in the posh safari styling, tailored shorts, with some retro formal wear looks.   Even though the theme is recognized, each ensemble is wearable by most men.  There aren’t any gimmicky catwalk pieces, just stylish clothes to suit a projected lifestyle.

The savviness of Christopher Bates is that every model is styled to appeal to an archetype to tickle your fancy.  The rugged explorer, the adventurer with trendy beard, urban moto-riding vagabond and the posh gent are all there to accommodate your fantasy.  It’s a perfect marketing move where the designer understands that men ultimately dress to attract and please a mate, therefore he presents his collection as such.

I don’t wish to disrespect the designer’s success or talent, but it doesn't hurt that the handsome Bates is the embodiment of his brand.  How hot would it be to live in this world?

photos by David TW Leung

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#WMCFW: Target Canada's Toronto Fashion Week Show

Most fashion week shows are for the media. The Target runway for World Mastercard Fashion week was meant to appeal to true customers.  The clothing was pulled from current fall and winter offerings now available in the stores.  The catwalk was dressed up like a big red carpet, decorated with home accessories.  Live musicians gave it a party atmosphere as well as the big shower of confetti at the finale.

The clothing itself ranged from back-to-school looks, warm cozy street wear to dressier holiday party looks for men, women and children.  While the diverse range of models was game, I can’t say I was all that impressed with the fashion itself.  While some looks were appealing, a lot of it looked like generic, budget-friendly clothing that catered to Canadian clichés of anoraks, chunky knit accessories and quilted jackets. I would have thought that a splashy Toronto Fashion Week event would have been the perfect opportunity to showcase the big-name designer collaborations that gets the fashion crowd geeked out in the United States.  Are they not offering these designers up North? Why not? Why deprive Canadians the likes of Joseph Altuzarra?  The only collaboration I saw represented here was with TOMS.

The only guest “star” or celebrity appearance in Toronto was “Bullseye” the Target mascot dog.  The cute factor is a crowd pleaser, but does it get people shopping?

Target has been supporting Toronto fashion week in some way for the past few seasons.  Even before they had a retail presence open, they offered up a nicely catered lounge to fashion media during World Mastercard fashion week.  They have been putting a lot of effort in announcing their arrival to Canada, which is why I am surprised they did not showcase more fashion forward looks.  Why show current season clothes if they aren’t going to drive people straight to the stores?  Don’t underestimate the Canadians, they gobble up the top designers the way they do poutine.

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#WMCFW: Sid Neigum - Mercedes-Benz Start-Up Winner

Congratulations to a new fashion designer to win the Mercedes-Benz Start-up competition at Toronto Fashion Week.  Sid Neigum presented a solo collection that earned him a $30 000 prize, mentorship and a fully produced solo show at the next World Mastercard Fashion Week with magazine spread.

His winning looks were a polished, clear vision with asymmetrical hems shapes and interesting use of laser cutting techniques.  He had dresses and separates with pretty modular motifs cut out of them.  

His truly sculptural pieces though were tops, capes, dresses that comprised of modular origami forms that were also created with a laser cutting process.  This is the first time I have seen the technology used this way in fashion.  Keeping the palette to basic black, white and neutral grey helped to highlight the architecture of his pieces. 

The Mercedes-Benz Start-up competition has chosen a lot of the top emerging designers to succeed in Canada.  Alberta raised Neigum also previously won the Toronto Fashion Incubator’s New Labels competition two years prior.  Judges of the competition make their decision not on this runway presentation alone.   The judging panel selects their winner over a series of interviews, business plans, marketing strategies and past seasons as well.

Congratulations Sig Neigum! I look forward to seeing your next collection!

photos by David TW Leung

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Canadian Designer Spotlight: Hilary MacMillan

Happy Canada Day my fashion peeps!  I thought I would introduce you to another Canadian fashion designer this July 1^st.  Hilary MacMillan is a relative newcomer to Toronto Fashion Week.   Her Fall/Winter 2014 was her second appearance at World Mastercard Fashion Week.

Her collection is sourced and manufactured locally and designed in Toronto.  Hillary and her sister Lindsay MacMillan also own a popular accessories boutique Elle Hardware in the trendy neighborhood of Queen West (Hubby and I always love to shop this area when we visit).

The family connections don’t end there.  For her inspiration this season, Hilary MacMillan looked to her Scottish ancestry as her muse.  The birds, tartans and hunting culture may be from the Highlands, but they are also very much a part of Canadian heritage as well.  The first Prime Minister of Canada was a Scottish gentleman named Sir John A. MacDonald.  I only know that because my high school was named in his honor, and I saw tartans everywhere.  Also, history textbooks had old black and white photos of Canadian fur trappers.

The graphic illustration print of pheasants is both elegant and whimsical.  It works really with the sleek suits and sheath dresses.  The traditional tartan pattern is used in updated fashion silhouettes, giving it a fresh look.  The fur accessories, whether it is the over-sized handbag or neck wrap, has a raw, unfinished pelt quality.  Instead of the polished glam collars of other collections this season, the pelts look like they were freshly hunted, reminding you of where they came from.  I like that idea.  If you DO choose to wear fur, why shy away from its origin?  It is kind of like the farm to table idea in cuisine, but applied to fashion. 

On this great Canada Day, get to know your design talent up North.  Hilary MacMillan is a fashion designer to watch!

Photos by George Pimentel

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Toronto Fashion Week: Vawk and Alleles Collaborate on Prosthetic Style

 What is the latest trend in intricately designed prosthetic limbs?  That is not a style update I expected to see at World Mastercard Fashion Week.   The VAWK fall 2014 runway was one of the most inspirational shows I have seen in a while on many fronts.

Designer Sunny Fong collaborated with competitors from a design contest, Ryan Palibroda and McCauley Wanner of Alleles Design Studio.  They proposed a beautiful, functional (and affordable) alternative to the more awkward, flesh colored limbs that current amputees had as an option.  The result was a cutting edge design was a piece of art that could be proudly shown off as the most stylish of accessories.

The chic black creation complemented the edgy black looks of the VAWK collection itself.  The clothing used a variety of sleek textures and form fitting silhouettes.  There was a bit of Goth influence, with crucifix jewelry and dramatic dark eye makeup.  There was a play on sheer and peek-a-boo cut-outs for a sexy, but not sleazy touch.

I find Toronto Fashion Week casting more diverse than other fashion capitals.  The inspiration for Sunny Fong’s show was a modern interpretation of “1001 Nights” with a mix of Dubai luxury and 1990’s street style.   However, the biggest inspiration for me was their star model Amy Palmiero-Winters.  Ms. Winters is a 41 year old Mom, a motivational speaker, a world record-breaking ultramarathon athlete and an amputee.  She proved that “role model” is the new “supermodel”.

photos by David TW Leung

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Toronto Fashion Week: Mikhael Kale Fall 2014

 A fashion collection around folded napkins?  Mikhael Kale's runway show at World Mastercard Fashion Week was allegedly inspired by the manipulations of the common serviette.  While other designers may cite artful origami or something more philosophical as their muse, Kale kept it real.

The clothing itself was far from simple.  You can see the multiple folds and creases in the intricate embellishments of his looks.  Many played on contrast and sheer fabrics.  Some were used as trim while more dramatic folds were built into the structure of the dresses.  The most successful looks were the ones that echoed the brightly colored marbleized prints in the pattern of the appliques.  Less successful was the one dress that looked like an overwhelming pile of fushia stuck to the front of a too delicate organza shift.

 A grouping of heavily studded looks that had overlapping or asymmetrical seams added a darker, punk element to this catwalk.  The designer directed the stylists to keep the faces pale with exaggerated, irregular eyelashes.  The models wore clunky silver soled shoes with wide black straps that did not complement the more elegant aesthetic of the show.

Mikhael Kale is Toronto's own budding designer star.  Luxe retailer Holt Renfrew wants his looks as well as international pop divas like Jennifer Lopez.  The designer has clearly mastered upscale looks, but also offers a more affordable line to stay accessible to all.  What a great start from the North!

Photos by David TW Leung

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Toronto Street Style - World MasterCard Fashion Week

What look represents Toronto street fashion?  At World MasterCard Fashion Week, the best examples are out on display.  While Toronto Fashion Week is still growing its reputation and credibility, the overall street fashion aesthetic has distinct characteristics.

Based on personal experience, Toronto weather is unpredictable at best.  It can be brutally cold and wet, beautiful and warm, or windy as hell all in the same day.  Canadians have to keep practicality in mind, so layering is popular.  Furry and cozy is comfortable AND a way to incorporate a dramatic coat.

Canadians have always prided themselves on diversity, (in school, we called ourselves the "mixed salad" in contrast to the Americans' "melting pot").  You see this reflected in the way that people style cultural silhouettes and patterns into modern chic ensembles.  Ethnic prints are cut into great silhouettes.  Traditional hairstyles are accessorized with statement pieces.

Let's not forget the Canadian sense of humor.  The fashionistas in Toronto look gorgeous, but they don't take themselves too seriously.  One thing I observed in the images of people posing in front of fashion shows in other cities and in Toronto is that you find people here laughing and smiling (unless they are doing a deliberate impression of a bad "blue steel").

What defines street style in your city?

Photos by Katherine Wong

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Canadian Fashion - Indie Designers

Happy Canada Day! In the spirit of this day of independence from the North, I bring you some of Canada's top independent fashion designers.  I discovered some great indie fashion labels at World Mastercard Fashion Week in Toronto this past spring and hope they invade the borders soon!

The design team of Shawn Hewson and Ruth Promislow behind the BUSTLE label comes to represent what I love about Canada.  The collection is bright, good natured and has a sense of humor.  Menswear dominated their runway with well cut separates and suits in unexpected colors.  A few women's looks made their in as well. The designers started off in law practice, but their stylish collaborations soon came to include everyone from Vespa, Hotel St. Germain to the city of Las Vegas.

Golnaz Ashtiani won the TFI fashion award and quickly racked up press coverage from all of Canada's top fashion magazines.  Her collection, Ashtiani at Toronto Fashion week had sharp, architectural seams with clean cut tailoring.  I loved the mix of contrast fabrications and cool attitude.

MATIS is an award-winning collection from designer Lucian Matis.  He got his fashion design roots growing up in his mother's tailor shop before having is work grace the covers of the country's top publications. His fall 2013 collection had simple silhouettes populated with complex and beautiful prints.
Photos by David TW Leung

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TORONTO FASHION WEEK: Klaxon Howl Fall 2013

This has got to be the most butch show at World Mastercard Fashion Week.  Klaxon Howl's men are rugged, rustic and looked like they just stepped in from chopping wood.  His fall 2013 collection looks like it was truly made for the outdoors man.

The models had real beards, not the ironic "hipster" beards you usually see in places like Williamsburg, Brooklyn. The fabrics were deeply textured, natural fibers obvious to the eye.  Lots of wool, cotton, with an old world, artisanal craftsmanship to the garments.  I think this collection looked incredibly stylish exactly for the reason that they were never trying to be stylish.  I know of a few large mainstream menswear labels who can only hope to produce a tribute the the authentic look seen here.

The show itself was striking.  They had a musician in the back, strumming away on an electric guitar while the diverse models strolled into spotlights around the room.  Their dramatically lit visages brought to mind the noir look of old westerns or faded photographs of grizzled fisherman.  The darkness and red mood lighting went perfectly with the understated rock n' roll sound of the music.

While this style of presentation looked great for guests, I have to say it was HELL on photographers. Every time I thought I had a great shot, the lighting changed and I lost it.  The top lighting shining down just caused the brims of hats to throw a dark shadow over the models faces.

Note to designers producing a fashion show: While a dramatic runway is great for the guests in attendance, they are only a small percentage of your total audience. The majority of your fans and customer base will be seeing your collection from magazines/tv/internet in photographs.  If they are badly lit, or photographers just can't get them, that is a lost opportunity.  You decide where your priorities need to be.

See Klaxon Howl's full collection here:

photos by David TW Leung

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Chloe Comme Parris Fall 2012

 Rebel ladies and sister acts.  The designers of Chloe Comme Parris at Toronto Fashion Week have had a lifelong relationship as sisters to develop their skills.  For their Fall 2012 show, the label has really come into their own.  A bit of 1920's floral prints, black basics, and fall's most important accessory, fur stoles showed a mature collection for the duo.

The shoe fairy seems to plague Toronto runways.  A model at the show tripped over her shoes and had to remove them to finish her walk.

 The Gordon girls showed their love of Medieval influences and Erte art with the braided hairstyles and dark lipstick.  Overall, the clothes were sexy and chic.  I see big things ahead for this family!

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Martin Lim Fall 2012

The couple that designs together stays together...For Toronto's World Mastercard Fashion Week, Husband and wife team Danielle Martin and Pao Lim showed their first collection since winning the Mercedes-Benz Start-up competition.  

Their Fall 2012 collection a mix of cool pastels and basic black and cream for its color palette.  Fall's trend of color-blocking resulted in flattering silhouettes. Tonal color leggings extended the body line.  Artful draping kept things interesting but highly wearable.

As pretty as this collection was, many of the looks seemed more suited for Spring than cold Canadian fall and winters.

I love the idea of a couple working as a team to produce a collection.  If I attempted the same with my hubby, the results would be quite different...  If you are a designer who wants to enter the 2012 collection, details can be found here.

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TORONTO FASHION WEEK; Joe Fresh Fall 2012

 Groovy baby!  Canada's most recognizable fashion brand, Joe Fresh presented their fashion show yesterday.    The collection had a lot of  1960's inspired silhouettes.  Mod mini-skirts and dresses, tight cigarette pants and cozy duffle coats were flattering to all.  The color palette was a rainbow of warm fall shades of maroon, orange, mustard and red, as well a cool palette of bright blue and green.  Black and white was used in the form of basics or over-sized houndstooth pattern.  Chunky knit hats, faux fur stoles and boxy handbags were the accessories of choice.  

This is always the most highly anticipated show in Toronto and most likely to have Canadian celebs in the front row. Fellow designer colleagues make it out next to the runway too, such as Pink Tartan designer Kimberley Newport-Mimran and designer Evan Biddell.  

While the patent leather jackets, sexy mini dresses and tailored coats look fabulous down the catwalk, what will actually be found in the stores might be very different.  Patent leather, wool and detailed knits could give way to vinyl, nylon blends and machine knits to hit their famed low price point. The tailoring that makes the models look sharp could be refit to accommodate a larger variety of bodies.

 Joe Fresh, by designer Joe Mimran started out as a supermarket clothing line known for its trendy styling.  Within the last year, it has made a big splash with shops on Fifth Avenue in Manhattan.  Whether you like your jackets next to the juice aisle or one of the many people carrying the orange bag on the streets of NYC, one thing is clear.  Joe Fresh is a hit.

A rose for designer Joe Mimran from a happy investor?

Photos by David TW Leung

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