Canadian Designer Spotlight: Hilary MacMillan

Happy Canada Day my fashion peeps!  I thought I would introduce you to another Canadian fashion designer this July 1^st.  Hilary MacMillan is a relative newcomer to Toronto Fashion Week.   Her Fall/Winter 2014 was her second appearance at World Mastercard Fashion Week.

Her collection is sourced and manufactured locally and designed in Toronto.  Hillary and her sister Lindsay MacMillan also own a popular accessories boutique Elle Hardware in the trendy neighborhood of Queen West (Hubby and I always love to shop this area when we visit).

The family connections don’t end there.  For her inspiration this season, Hilary MacMillan looked to her Scottish ancestry as her muse.  The birds, tartans and hunting culture may be from the Highlands, but they are also very much a part of Canadian heritage as well.  The first Prime Minister of Canada was a Scottish gentleman named Sir John A. MacDonald.  I only know that because my high school was named in his honor, and I saw tartans everywhere.  Also, history textbooks had old black and white photos of Canadian fur trappers.

The graphic illustration print of pheasants is both elegant and whimsical.  It works really with the sleek suits and sheath dresses.  The traditional tartan pattern is used in updated fashion silhouettes, giving it a fresh look.  The fur accessories, whether it is the over-sized handbag or neck wrap, has a raw, unfinished pelt quality.  Instead of the polished glam collars of other collections this season, the pelts look like they were freshly hunted, reminding you of where they came from.  I like that idea.  If you DO choose to wear fur, why shy away from its origin?  It is kind of like the farm to table idea in cuisine, but applied to fashion. 

On this great Canada Day, get to know your design talent up North.  Hilary MacMillan is a fashion designer to watch!

Photos by George Pimentel

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Toronto Fashion Week: Mikhael Kale Fall 2014

 A fashion collection around folded napkins?  Mikhael Kale's runway show at World Mastercard Fashion Week was allegedly inspired by the manipulations of the common serviette.  While other designers may cite artful origami or something more philosophical as their muse, Kale kept it real.

The clothing itself was far from simple.  You can see the multiple folds and creases in the intricate embellishments of his looks.  Many played on contrast and sheer fabrics.  Some were used as trim while more dramatic folds were built into the structure of the dresses.  The most successful looks were the ones that echoed the brightly colored marbleized prints in the pattern of the appliques.  Less successful was the one dress that looked like an overwhelming pile of fushia stuck to the front of a too delicate organza shift.

 A grouping of heavily studded looks that had overlapping or asymmetrical seams added a darker, punk element to this catwalk.  The designer directed the stylists to keep the faces pale with exaggerated, irregular eyelashes.  The models wore clunky silver soled shoes with wide black straps that did not complement the more elegant aesthetic of the show.

Mikhael Kale is Toronto's own budding designer star.  Luxe retailer Holt Renfrew wants his looks as well as international pop divas like Jennifer Lopez.  The designer has clearly mastered upscale looks, but also offers a more affordable line to stay accessible to all.  What a great start from the North!

Photos by David TW Leung

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Christopher Bates Winter 2013

The Canadian fashion industry calls Christopher Bates the "James Bond" of menswear.  That doesn't mean he has a license to kill.  They are talking about the handsome designer's suave personal style which also translates into his collection.

I thought I would spend the next week paying tribute to the guys by featuring menswear.  Christopher Bates' Fall/Winter 2013 collection for World MasterCard Fashion Week in Toronto was sophisticated and refined.  That did not mean stuff.  The well dressed gentlemen strolled down the runway in a relaxed manner as the tuxedo clad creative director described the elements of each look.

This fashion presentation felt intimate.  From a writer and buyer's perspective, I found his format highly effective as you heard about the design intent, fabric and tailoring details directly from the designer's lips.  It reminded of the old-fashioned collections in designer ateliers, where fashion "shows" really were for the important people there to do business.

Christopher Bates is a highly skilled business man who drew quite a crowd in the panel discussions for new designers.  Prior to his fashion training in Milan, is career background was in marketing and sales. I guess such an impressive background does earn him a "Bond" nickname in these circles.

What is your favorite Canadian menswear brand?

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David Dixon Fall 2013

Grrrrl power.  The David Dixon Fall 2013 fashion show in Toronto opened with a silly black and white excerpt from a parody sketch of the dangers of women thinking with a "Bulls**t!" disclaimer at the end.  This might have been funny or relevant 40 years ago, but in this day and age, an attitude that is far from revolutionary.

The collection itself contained sensible black and white variations of sportswear classics, spruced up with feather collars, lace fabrics,pinstripes and other textures.  There were a few simple evening wear pieces that had sharp flower appliques.  The most successful pieces were the dresses and tops that had spiral cut chiffon trailing down in a curly fringe technique.  They looked light, whimsical without taking away from the serious, no-nonsense vibe of this particular customer.

David Dixon's runway catered to the practical career woman.  Not too much color, pieces that easily blend in with existing wardrobe items or timeless enough to be worn for years.  This collection clearly appealed to his core customer instead of baiting the press.  I could be catty and note that black, more black and navy with bits of white were safe or unimaginative.  Then I looked into my own closet and figured kettle and stove should shut the f*ck up.

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