NY FASHION WEEK: Carmen Marc Valvo Spring 2014

It's fashion from the future!  Fashion designer Carmen Marc Valvo's spring 2014 collection channeled Blade Runner's Pris and Lilu from the Fifth Element.  The two-toned blunt haircuts, graphic body conscious lines, the models looked like they had just stepped out of a fashionable sci-fi film and onto the runway.  

I briefly worked at Carmen Marc Valvo while I was still in school at Parsons.  Two of my best friends at school had also worked there.  The collection was always elegant, with pretty beaded embellishment.  It was smartly merchandised to make brides, socialites and their mothers happy.  

While this collection was an interesting departure from his known aesthetic, will it scare away their core customer?  Some looks were very flattering with the seams and lines contouring the body. They could look like an elegant evolution of activewear.  However, some looks wrapped around the body in a horizontal way that gave it the look of a towel wrapped around the torso.  It wasn't tailored enough to be flattering and not loose enough for a big easy silhouette either.  With the exception of a few pastel pieces in the beginning, the collection remained grey, black and white. 

What do you think?  Do you love future Carmen as much as classic Carmen?

original photos by David TW Leung

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FIT Fashion Show 2013 - Special Occasion Graduates

The recent crop of fashion design graduates from F.I.T. are ready for the red carpet.  Under the direction of famed bridal designer Amsale Aberra and Maggie Norris, the students presented innovative options for evening wear dresses.

Fashion design graduates Alyssa Collura, Kenneth Anderson,Alexis Raia, Manuela Ocampo, solih Lim, Brenna Simmons, Jasmin ruiz, Soo Kim and award winners Elle Loow and Trung Vu created looks that set themselves apart from the classic special occasion labels by using unusual patterns and textures on their gowns.  They favored sexy seaming dimensional embellishments and innovative twists on traditional silhouettes.

Will they dress the celebrities of award shows to come?  Will you see their work adorn the next Met ball?  I'm sure they hope so, and have create a convincing argument that they deserve to... Congratulations graduates!

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Pamella Roland Fall 2013

For the Upper East Side Ladies who lead the glamorous after they lunch... Pamella Roland's Fall 2013 collection for NY Fashion Week was luxurious with a bit of vintage Hollywood chic.  Fur stoles wrapped necks and arms.  Long trailing gowns in simple solid colors or metallic embellished shorter dresses swept along a mosaic print runway.

Shiny, sexy tight daywear looks could only be called daywear by women who never need to work.  There were jackets and pants in silky fabrics and shiny details that screamed evening, but had daytime silhouettes.  They reminded me of what television characters in high society dramas would wear, rather than real people.  That's not to say they were not outfits I personally wouldn't love to wear if I could make my reality like that...

Unfortunately, the models looked very severe and unhappy.  Perhaps it was the unspoken truth of life as a trophy wife... Tight black headbands and very high platform shoes were the accessories of choice.  The headbands made the look more uptight, pulling the face back like a recent face-lift 

I wish Pamella would use more of the delicate, pretty embroideries that I saw in previous seasons. They were elegant without looking forced or drama filled.

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NY FASHION WEEK: Zang Toi Spring 2013

Zang Toi was all about romance at his NY Fashion Week runway show.  The designer was inspired by the French Riviera during his stay at Hotel de cap Eden Roc.

The designer has always been humble, despite it fiercely loyal following of the wealthiest clients and celebrities (Kirstie Alley was backstage cheering him on).  He also has grown his successful business to include licenses for shoes, makeup and fine jewelry, and now a cafe on 57th street.

His collection for Spring 2013 had rich, jeweled embroidery, the most luxurious silks, expertly tailored jackets.  The colors were an icy lilac and snowy ivory, butter yellow with rich black.  Silhouettes ranged from full ballgowns, to tapered fishtail gowns, voluminous sleeves, pinstriped tailored shorts and capri pants.  There were sexy minis to demure 3/4 length sleeve knee length dresses.

Zang Toi always treats everyone around like royalty, (and some of them actually are).  He calls his staff "angels", and I always see them wearing "Team Toi" shirts backstage.  When I am at his studio, his staff is protective of him.  His models are seasoned women of the runway, who show off his clothing more beautifully more than any ingenue.  He runs rehearsals of lighting for the benefit of the photographers before the show, right before he sends out meal boxes to keep everyone's energy up.  For the guests of his fashion shows, they are treated to a beautiful show and gift bags containing a collection of his Zoya nail polishes taken directly from the collection colors.

The most predictable moment of the evening?  The standing ovation at his final bow.

Photos by David TW Leung

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Shimmering Chic - Reem Acra Fall 2012

Love me some shimmer, how about you?  Reem Acra has always been the go-to designer for glamorous bridal creations.  Their New York Fashion Week show however, made a bid for all of your cocktail frock needs.  Lots of gold, silver, black sequins and beading sparkled down the runway.  1920's and 1970's influences shaped the silhouettes along with very simple mini dresses or maxi tank dresses.  

The collection was undeniably sexy while maintaining their elegant reputation.  Strategic cut-outs or the illusion of exposed skin underneath the embroidery was more tease than flash.  Hair was pulled back into a sleek ponytail.  Jewelry was minimal, letting the clothes to the talking.

Photos by David TW Leung

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Farah Angsana Fall 2012

The jetsetting socialite was the muse for Farah Angsana's Fall 2012 collection.  It was parade of sexy evening looks that bared skin strategically.  One of the top trends of fall were the high slit skirts that showed off long legs. 

Shoulders were exposed, some decollete and impeccable embroidery helped create an alluring look. The colors ranged from black and white to bright red, orange, purple, sapphire and emerald green.  The fabrics were luxurious.  Drapey silks fluttered with movement on the runway.  Lace, metallic brocade and abstract prints rounded out the collection.

Photos by David TW Leung

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Photographers Favorite - Zang Toi Fall 2012

There is no designer more admired among the crew in the photographer's pit than Zang Toi. The atmosphere at the front of the runway is more pirates’ crew than genteel fashion elite.  Most of the burly guys are just there to do a job.  Once in a while, there comes a fashion show like Zang Toi’s fall 2012 collection, which inspires the most jaded of shooters.

Why did he impress?  The lighting was favorable, a detail that a surprising number of designers ignore.   It didn’t hurt that he ran a rehearsal for the benefit of the photographers to prep their cameras before the rest of the audience was granted access.

 The models were seasoned.  They were real women who knew how to pose provocatively to accentuate each look.  Another detail taken for often granted: models that actually hold the pose long enough for the photographer to take the image.

The designer’s posh gowns filled the width of the runway with yards of satin and pure glamour.  Zang Toi truly knows how to make his clientele, his staff (and we lowly photographers) feel special.  He makes his socialites look gorgeous, and he constantly praises his staff.   I briefly worked with him in my early embroidery design days and he was always a class act.  In a first for fashion week, he actually thought to provide the photographers with boxed lunches of Malaysian curry buns and fruit before the show.  

After taking us to Morocco last season, Mr. Toi took us to Gstaad this season.  The color palette was simple, black, cream and red.  A bright red, orange and fushia tile print looked rich and modern.  The hair and makeup were classic 1940's Hollywood.  Gowns were long and fitted with some dramatic flair at the hem.  Some were embellished with embroidery, beading or sculpted shoulder details.  Day wear included luxurious Loro Piana suits and coats.  In the end, the guests stood up for another well earned standing ovation for the designer.  

Spotted in the front row: Real Housewife of NY Ramona Singer,  America's Next Top Model Eva Marcille

Photos by David TW Leung

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Elegant Warmth at J. Mendel Fall 2012

Fur was one of the biggest trends for Fall 2012 at NY fashion week.  The family business of J. Mendel has been doing fur for five generations.  For their runway show at Lincoln Center, Gilles Mendel presented a mix of chic evening wear and luxe fur dresses.

The evening looks were a mix of beaded art deco gowns or sexy dresses with strategic cut-outs.  The fur pieces ranged from hip vests to sheared, tailored dresses or cozy coats.  The color palette of this collection was warm, but basic.  Lots of brown tones, mustard, dramatic black and classic ivory went down the runway.

I have a lot of friends who are against fur, and were not too happy with the abundance of it this season.  While I am sympathetic to their views, I am not a vegetarian.  There are native cultures that survive on the fur trade.   There are very few companies where families are willing to continue on the tradition of their ancestors. How do you deny a family their legacy?

Photos by David T.W. Leung

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Regal Glamour at THEIA Fall 2012

Strong, powerful women of mythology.  Designer Don O'Neill has always looked to iconic female figures as muse.  For his Fall 2012 collection (and first runway show), he went darker and more mysterious.  Some in the audience called it the Morgana or Snow White's evil queen collection.  What I saw were gowns that were luxuriously embellished and sexy. 

Black and silver were the dominant colors, with some rich amethyst looks in between.  Shoes were made by Q by Pascuale Fabrizio.  Exquisite heels from Italy that were also delicately crafted.  Beaded headpieces gave the evening wear their magical slant.  

The makeup consisted of smoky, smoldering eyes.  The hair was inspired by Athena, Goddess of weaving.  It was pulled back into long ponytails, with  long hair strands wrapped around and interwoven down the tail.

Theia is fast becoming the go-to favorite of celebrities for the red carpet.  Most recently, Amber Riley of Glee at the NAACP awards and TONY winner Donna Murphy at the Drama League Awards wore his flattering gowns.  Maybe they know that they can count on Don to make them look their best.  Maybe the stars know that they sparkle like the Goddess of Light that inspires the collection.  Either way, this is a label not to be missed!

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Naeem Khan Spring 2012

Awards season is in full swing...That means lots of gowns down the red carpet.  Do you have enough frocks lined up?  Naeem Khan is one of the more regal designers out there.  He dresses royalty from all reaches of the planet.

For Spring 2012, he had a mix of sexy, bright, pastel and floral.  The best gowns had dramatic silhouettes or intricate beaded flowers.  The body hugging sleek dresses that were the most simple were also the most sexy.

Some of the looks were too long and too covered up, giving an impression of suffocation (though I suspect those are for princesses of more conservative religious countries).  There was a small group of printed floral looks, (pants on a one piece, dresses with a Bo-peep shape) that didn't work for me either. They just left me scratching my head as they felt out of place among such elegant creations. Then again, Mr. Khan probably has a more diverse clientele than most designers, so he has more divas to please.

Whichever look you choose, you are guaranteed to make a grand entrance.

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