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Showing posts with label fit. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fit. Show all posts

Friday, January 20, 2017

Runway VS. Reality: Cropped Fendi Sweater


fendi spring 2017 sweater

The IT item for Spring 2017 according to this month's magazine selection is the cropped Fendi sweater. They were the darlings of that season's runway show. You will see it on the covers of Elle magazine modeled by Shailene Woodley and InStyle with Gwyneth Paltrow. 

shailene woodley elle cover
The sweater is cute, simple and the ribbed band gives you a modernized twist on a classic garment. However, the ladies over at Go Fug Yourself mocked the knit top as the "worst" among other details of the Rosie Huntington-Whitley cover (not surprising). Did they have a point, though?

As a non-model body type who fits all types of bodies as a technical designer, this sweater, while editor-friendly is a nightmare in real life. It's safe to assume that both the runway models and cover celebrities are rocking bodies no bigger than a size 0. They still have skin, though, and a ribbed knit band on its own would likely be very tight to fit the rib cage they way it does in the photo or be stretched or not tight enough in real life to fit this way. Any deviation from the sample fit model could go either way. Of course, with a cover photo shoot, you can pin as needed and Photoshop as needed. When you wear this sweater for more than a photo, be prepared for any all variations!

My sketch above represents various turnouts this sweater could have, even on a size 0. If your bust doesn't fill the knit to cup the top bodice correctly, you could get a stretched hem effect. The ribbed band could hang loose after the first wearing. Even a size 0, if the tension of the sweater knit is too tight to cup the body, if could just squeeze your skin to give a bulged effect. Third, depending on the height of the fit model, you could be taller or shorter than the body proportions the sweater intended. That means that ribbed band could hit you right above the ribcage and feel awkward or right AT the waist instead of above, adding extra bulk on top of your pant waistband, while losing the original design intent of the sweater altogether.

This review is not to put down the designer of this style. All of fashion design has to make these considerations when developing the collection. The reason this particular garment makes good press is precisely because it takes so many risks that many manufacturers don't want to take on. Mass retailers demand "bra friendly" "generous waists" and less sexy designs to appeal to the most shoppers, directly contradicting what looks great on the runway or magazine.

In the end, every customer has to decide whether the Spring 2017 Fendi Cropped Sweater is for them. The variables of the design and high end luxury label limits the customer base. No doubt, fast fashion companies are preparing their version before I finish writing this, and the quality will be much worse. If the original doesn't have the problems I cited, you can bet the bargain, low rib count knit will.
Sketch by Mariana Leung
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Wednesday, November 18, 2015

Global Fashion Capitals Presented by FIT

Marina Hoermanseder
lie sangbong FiT

Do you think that fashion lives only in Paris, New York in Milan? While many top labels choose to show in these cities, there are thriving designers and brands that have a community all over the world. The Museum at FIT recently held a symposium covering global fashion capitals powering the style industry today to accompany their recent museum exhibit.

The showpiece of the event was a runway show featuring international designers. Marina Hoermanseder of Berlin, Richard Seco of Mexico City, Lisa Folawiyo of Lagos, Arzu Kaprol of Istanbul and Lie Sangbong of Seoul showed their collections on the stage.

fashion museum

The symposium covered the history of immigrants who worked in fashion manufacturing to international locations that inspire trends, technology, branding and culture that moves the fashion industry to global fashion bloggers influencing today's style. Students were able to learn more about working and living in the different fashion capitals from representatives who do just that.

The exhibit itself showed notable designers represented cities throughout fashion history and the eras that each city started making a global impact in influence. Think Charles Worth putting Paris on the map as one of the first named "fashion designer" as opposed to a tailor or seamstress then Coco Chanel in the 1920s pioneering sportswear for women. There was the 1930's for New York where career wear, sportswear really flourished with 7th avenue. London captured the world's attention with punk and the youthquake movement with designers like Vivienne Westwood. The 1970's was all about Italians, the 1990's Antwerp and Tokyo.

With so many cities producing great collections, designers have more opportunities and more options than ever in where they do business. I'm seeing more designers returning to hometowns or bringing their home cultures into their brands. Wherever you find inspiration, the fashion world can follow.
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Wednesday, December 17, 2014

Supima Design Competition: A 2014 Winner!

anastasia iafrate
Fashion designer Anastasia Iafrate was named the winner of the Supima Cotton Design Competition at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week with the award presented by supermodel Coco Rocha. The intensive contest pitted the best fashion talent from the Academy of Art University, FIDM, FIT, Kent State University, SCAD and the Rhode Island School of Design.

Iafrate named her winning collection “White Nights of St. Petersburg" after her native home in Russia. Using what she considered a casual cotton fabric, she created regal evening wear with beautiful flourishes.
yuxi bi fashion

Beijing born Ou Ma graduated from the Fashion Institute of Technology as a knit designer. Her dreamy, cloud-like collection was actually an exploration in mental illness and emotional recovery

Yuxi Bi from the Savannah College of Design is also from China. She created her romantic evening wear collection inspired by the texture of fine Supima fabrics.
sharon moon
Jenny Hoang represented the Academy of Art University. Her collection had a somber color palette. Her design work specializes in denim and cotton. Her theme for this group was "transformation".

Sharon Moon earned her BFA from RISD. Her gorgeous collection was inspired by the look of decaying flowers. She used a modern approach to create that aesthetic using an intricate laser cutting technique on strong cotton fibers.

David Lee is a West Coast-based designer representing the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising. His collection had bold color blocked seams that flattered the curves of a woman's body.

The winner of the Supima Design Competition receives a $10000 prize. The more valuable opportunity though, is the chance for finalists to show their collection at New York Fashion Week at Lincoln Center. What I enjoy is the fresh talent that shows me new possibilities that a common fiber like cotton can bring. Great work designers!
photos by Mariana Leung
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Friday, May 3, 2013

FIT Fashion Show 2013 - Special Occasion Graduates

FIT fashion design
FIT fashion amsale aberra
The recent crop of fashion design graduates from F.I.T. are ready for the red carpet.  Under the direction of famed bridal designer Amsale Aberra and Maggie Norris, the students presented innovative options for evening wear dresses.

Fashion design graduates Alyssa Collura, Kenneth Anderson,Alexis Raia, Manuela Ocampo, solih Lim, Brenna Simmons, Jasmin ruiz, Soo Kim and award winners Elle Loow and Trung Vu created looks that set themselves apart from the classic special occasion labels by using unusual patterns and textures on their gowns.  They favored sexy seaming dimensional embellishments and innovative twists on traditional silhouettes.

Will they dress the celebrities of award shows to come?  Will you see their work adorn the next Met ball?  I'm sure they hope so, and have create a convincing argument that they deserve to... Congratulations graduates!
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Saturday, May 12, 2012

Ken and Barbie Get An F.I.T. Makeover

barbie home decor

The Fashion Institute of Technology crowned student designers of multiple disciplines as winners of their "Play With Fashion" competition this week.  Their challenge was to give iconic Mattel characters Barbie and Ken an entire makeover, including their stylish home, bling and a photo shoot.  Winners included Veronica Zhou for jewelry design, Maor Tapiro for fashion design, Jessica Mazur for interior design, Loreal Prystaj for photography, and Elyse Falato for visual presentation and exhibition design.

Elle Magazine's creative director, Joe Zee guest judge.  Daily Front Row interviewed him about what he learned at Mattel's headquarters and what his dream Barbie Doll would be.

Damn, that doll always got the good stuff...
Diane Bondareff for Barbie via Daily Front Row

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