Spring 2017 Collections of 5 Black Fashion Designers

Diversity in runway fashion has been a big issue in the industry, but so far, the story has largely been contained to model casting. African-American designers have rarely been discussed as a group. This week, the Museum at FIT opened its exhibit on Black Fashion Designers in a small step to correct this. While I will give my report on this show a bit later, I thought I would highlight the Spring 2017 collections of a few Black designers I love and have showcased in the past.

Xuly Bet was a huge name when I came to NYC in the 1990s. He made a comeback to New York after doing his thing in France for awhile. His Spring 2017 collection was a celebration of his intricate prints and color combinations. The patterns had African advertising motifs, traditional tribal prints with some contemporary motifs of other cultures mixed in. There were killer shoes with coordinating prints and models were styled in fierce headwraps. Spike Lee, June Ambrose and Kelly Osborne were on hand to support him.

photo from WWD.com

Tracy Reese was my senior year designer mentor when I studied fashion at Parsons School of Design. She was always in sync with her the lifestyles of her customer. Her Spring 2017 collection featured "real" women instead of traditional models. The presentation was a garden party instead of a runway that showcased women of all shapes, ages, and sizes who worked in different professions. The clothes themselves were feminine, mixing graphic prints and flirty details. Animal print, lace, color blocking were all tricks employed by the designer to flatter the body.

Photo by Mariana Leung

Byron Lars is another designer who is committed to the body inclusive discussion. He expanded his collection to sizes 0-22 this season. He spent many hours (many that I was personally a part of) consulting with full figured models of different shapes, bloggers and customers to create a beautiful product that flattered the true range of his fans. The result was a gorgeous collection of pieces in silhouettes not usually found in the plus size range.

photo from African Fashion International

I always loved David Tlale's elegant silhouettes gliding down the runway. He came from South Africa to show in New York for several seasons. His Spring 2017 collection was a mix of both menswear and womenswear. The models looked like Gods and Goddesses striding down the runway in clean, bright, white and black looks.

Public School designer Maxwell Osborne was one of the few prominent designers to publicly embrace the Black Lives Matter movement. Together with partner Dao-Yi Chow, they recently stepped down from their posts as creative directors at DKNY. Their spring 2017 collection was a mix of collegiate styling with the proportions tweaked (extra-long sweaters, shorter pants), with a lot of too cool for school attitude.

Photo by Luis Monteiro for Duro Olowu

I fell in love with the aesthetic of Duro Olowu's work when I encountered his big collaboration with J. C. Penney. It was probably the first and last time I could afford anything with his name on it. That doesn't mean I can't admire his spectacular collections from afar. His Spring 2017 collection was a mix of ladylike dresses and capes with a retro silhouette. Prints were mixed from florals to big polka dots to color blocked stripes. 

After this last election, the fight to see diverse creative forces will be more challenging than ever. Show publishers that you not only want to see different models representing your clothing but tell your retailers that you want your fashion to come from designers of color as well. Check out FIT's Black Fashion Designers exhbit then, since they don't have a gift shop, get to the boutiques!

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CFDA Award Winners 2014

All right! The CFDA, Council of Fashion Designers of America honored their own last night.  I can't say I agree with every choice, but I will say I have never met anyone who didn't work their butt off to be here. 

Rihanna was honored with being the Style icon of the year.  While her stylist-assisted looks have been interesting at times, my personal belief is an "icon" should be someone who has crafted their own individual style.  A look that goes against popular trends, is so distinct that just their signature accouterments would be recognizable (think Anna Wintour's glasses and hair bob, Audrey Hepburn's pearls and cigarette holder...).  A flashy, carefully composed concert and red carpet agenda does not individual style make.  To me, a style icon should look striking on the way to the coffee shop when no one is looking.   More ironic, Rihanna showed up at the fashion awards by not wearing any (well, except for a fur muff to hide her muff).  That's like a top chef winning the James Beard Award and going on a hunger strike n'est-ce pas?

New Yorkers through and through, the dapper casual boys of Public School NYC Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow won Menswear Designers of the year.  They won last year's Swarovski Award for Menswear for new talent and were also the Vogue Fashion Fund's darlings before that.  Their collection is a great mix of casual looks executed in high end luxury fabrics.

Joseph Altuzarra won Womenswear Designer of the Year.  Like his counterparts, he also followed a trajectory of winning awards for new talent all the way up to this highest award by winning the Vogue Fashion Fund then Swarovski Award.  His collection is a reflection of his multi-cultural background.

For those of us in a certain generation, they will always be the Olsen Twins of childhood TV.  Accessory Designers of the Year Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen have since created a lifestyle empire with their luxury label The Row as their signature.  They work intensely on each collection themselves and vendors love them for their dedication to using the best quality materials, whatever the cost.

A new award this year went to Patrick Janelle for Instagrammer of the Year, showing the CFDA Awards are a little more progressive, if not a few years behind the times.  They only started inviting or recognizing bloggers a couple of years ago.  Tom Ford was recognized for Lifetime Achievement, which seems premature, considering he is in the prime of his career.  I think they just wanted to guarantee his handsome presence on the red carpet.

All of the winners last night are extremely talented and worked hard to be where they are.  Every professional that survives year after year does.  However, when it comes to these and other high profile awards, I see the same handful of names pop up every time.  What does it take to cast a wider net and view a true range of designers in the industry?  Can the public see a label that Anna Wintour didn't handpick and direct the rest of the world to celebrate?

What unrecognized designer would you nominate?
Photos from the CFDA and Getty

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