Michael Costello Spring 2017

This season's runways were in full bloom. Sure, you can go with pastels, but Project Runway alumni Michael Costello went for a richer, darker palette for spring 2017. The silhouettes were unabashedly sexy with many of the dramatic dresses with leg slits at navel height. I can imagine daring starlets having a great red carpet moment (or malfunction) with those.

Deep wine colors, sparkling off-black and beautiful little embroideries made this formal collection a winner. Costello was clearly aiming for dressing entire celebrity families. Handsome Tyson Beckford made his way down the catwalk as a teaser to the impending menswear collection. His suit a shimmering brocade. Two children's wear looks also came down the runway, once a young girl another a toddler. Could this be an attempt to pander to the Kardashians and Beyonces of the world?

I loved the gigantic flower crowns. I have seen too many wimpy music festival ones the past few years. The styling of this show made each model look like a Goddess of the wine harvest. The full-on glamor of the capes, satin jumpsuits, sequin gowns are a celebration of the bombshell and hourglass figures. His boutique in Los Angeles is just calling out to any celebrity who will have him. I am just happy to see my favorite colors being featured through spring and summer. Congrats to Michael Costello on Spring 2017

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NY Bridal Week: Austin Scarlett Spring Bridal 2017

What's new with Project Runway alum Austin Scarlett? The refined competitor held an intimate presentation on Sunday to show his newest bridal dresses. His elegant design sense landed him an assignment with JLM bridal in the past and since 2012 he has launched his own wedding collection.

He has create costume designs for the Metropolitan Opera and other dance, opera and theatrical companies.. That work clearly influenced his current collection. The bridal dress styles are named after musical terms like "Allegra", "Sonata" and "Serenade". 

His mastery of drape is clear. The soft silk gowns look like they are carved from marble. The silhouettes are so defined in their sculptural beauty. He also plays with the sheerness of fabric with trimmed edges to highlight the shapes even more. The Serenade gown featured an abundance of silk, handmade flowers. He was happy to credit M&S Schmalberg as one of the New York Garment Center's few remaining companies who still make things in the old tradition. They are one of my favorite places to frequent for flowers I use in my own design work. They handform and stitch handcut petals into European millinery irons that date back to the 1800's. 

Scarlett was a gracious host throughout the presentation. He created pins and barettes with more of the exquisite flowers for his guests. He was constantly hands-on in fixing the dresses on his models and happy to elaborate on any of the gowns.

Austin Scarlett will go down in Project Runway as one of the most refined designers of its history. While there were many divas on the show, he is more the maestro. He doesn't play theatrics, he conducts all of the players with ease. After seeing his spring 2017 collection, I can't wait for the encore.

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Leanne Marshall Fall 2016

So what are your favorite Project Runway alums up to? Season 5 winner Leanne Marshall wowed the judges with her skills in draping romantic silhouettes.

She has become a popular indie bridal designer and showed her collections during NY Fashion week. For fall 2016, she took on a darker coffee, gold, grey and black palette. She opened the show with shorter silk rompers and cocktail length dresses. The showstoppers were the airy gowns in georgette and masterfully draped ruffles. Marshall also mixed in a few bridal looks that incorporated manipulated fabric embellishments or sexy inserts of lace.

For a designer who proudly flaunts her Californian roots, this was a darker, sophisticated collection perfectly at home in NYC. This city does that to people. The hair was slick and tied back. The eye make-up was dark and smoky.

The most memorable thing about this show was how the models looked while they moved in these dresses. Marshall clearly designed the dresses with how they would float or ripple as the wearer walked. I chalk this up to her experience working with dance costumes. At least you know these are dresses where you can move at an event.

Considering this was a relatively new label of a low-key designer, this show was fully packed where guests and press were spilling into the runway itself. Celebrities in the audience included Miss Universe Pia Alonzo Wurtzbach and Empire's Ta'Rhonda Jones. More established designers didn't bring crowds as big as this show.

There have been man Project Runway contestants. Very few have joined the ranks of really expanding their labels to the next level. Congratulations to Leanne Marshall for being one of them!

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Irina Shabayeva Spring 2016

Taking to the streets. Irina Shabayeva, season 6 winner of Project Runway showed an edgy street wear collection for NY Fashion Week. As we are used to seeing sweeping ballgowns and dramatic silhouettes, this paired down casual collection was out of the comfort zone.

We last covered Georgian designer Shabayeva's bridal collection with the gigantic skirts. When her girl strolling the sidewalks instead of the aisle, she is wearing cute, body conscious mini-dresses in vegan leather or winged prints with an asymmetrical hem. As outerwear, spring/summer 2016 includes extra long hoodies with extended hems.

The shoes included cage booties and fringed boots in pale vegan suede from Machi Footwear.

The designer is also expanding into intimate apparel. She recently debuted a collection of lace lingerie that includes vintage silhouettes with dramatic kimono sleeve robes that she presented at Midtown restaurant Sushi Roxx. The crazy pop-tech Japanese themed venue was the perfect backdrop to her sexy pieces.

Runway photos by Mariana Leung, Lingerie photo by Charles Farrah

Check out Project Runway All-Stars: What Are They Working on Now?
by Ms. Fabulous at Mode

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Irina Shabayeva Bridal Collection 2016

Did you want to catch up on what Project Runway alumni are doing? Season 6 winner Irina Shabayeva presented super glamorous evening and bridal looks as the finale runway in a fundraising gala to end human trafficking.

Project Runway's Irina Shabayeva's Show in Support of Freedom Ladder

Counting Selena Gomez and Carrie Underwood as fans, Shabayeva is now focused on working with brides and special occasion clients directly right in her studio for a collaborative, custom creation.  Customers who can't make it into her studio directly can work with her via Irina Shabayeva's Etsy boutique.

The fiery designer was inspired by Victorian structures to 1950's silhouettes for her latest fashion collection. She combined intricate laces and high volume skirts and gigantic ballroom skirts that were still light and transparent.

Shabayeva & Design Team

The event was produced by The Set NYC. It benefitted Freedom Ladder, an organization that empowers women and children by raising awareness against human trafficking and promoting a safe world for all.

It was a gorgeous collection and I look forward to seeing more of Irina Shabayeva's looks for brides and everyone else.

Photos by Mariana Leung

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Michael Costello Art Hearts Spring 2015

Aliens on the runway! That was my first impression of former Project Runway contestant Michael Costello’s fashion show. His collection at the Art Hearts Spring 2015 presentation at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week sent mixed signals.

The fabulous costumed aliens (I think) that flanked the runway for the models made me think that this would be an avant-garde, artistic show. The looks that came down the catwalk though, were sexy, dark, evening wear pieces that were daring, but not particularly forward. The deep browns, black, blue along with lots of sheer lace and metallic have a sultry look to match the models. Many of the body hugging silhouettes with revealed leg, fishtail hem or cut-outs are just screaming out for a Kardashian sister to wear them. Costello’s West Coast base also makes him primed to serve many a red carpet in the upcoming awards season.

Less successful were the few pieces of lace bottoms. Very sheer lace bottoms with a triangle patch at the crotch? These are the cringe-worthy items that women shake their head at and only a male would design.

Other spacey touches included spiked and studded masks that many of the models wore. I was unclear if this was part of the collection, a separate accessories brand or meant to convey a character? Also, those aliens were distracting because they were so cool, they took focus away from what otherwise was a great ‘diva’ collection.

Aside from these minor rookie mistakes, I am looking forward to what else Michael Costello Couture has in store for on this planet or the next.

photos by Mariana Leung

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By the Book: Michael Kors Spring 2014

 When I attended Parsons School of Design, it was all about "7th Avenue Sportswear".  The king of this was Michael Kors.  His collection for spring 2014 was the textbook presentation of the well edited, merchandised, buyer-friendly groups that our professions always wanted to see.

What does this mean? When my class had to present our groups of "croquis" (fashion sketches on a figure) the teachers were always looking for cohesive  groups mixing prints, coordinating solid colors, diversity of separates, etc.  Exactly what department store buyers would buy, consistent price point and easy enough for the most unimaginative retail to understand.  Were they asking design students to scale new heights in creativity? No.  They were teaching us to get a job.  Parsons students of today are no longer pushed into this philosophy based on the artistic work I have saw at the last graduate show.  In this century, designers can only distinguish themselves from the big labels by doing something completely different.

Michael Kors is the perfect example of the old school. He's not breaking new ground in fashion design, but he is an American fashion icon by his wit and business savvy.  His spring 2014 collection mixed conservative long, buttoned up dresses and classic coats in brown, navy, camel, green.  There were cropped tops and short shorts in the same fabrics to accommodate the same customer's daughters.

The MK handbag was a huge breakout hit at retail the last few years, so purses also took center stage on the catwalk.

I may not look to Mr. Kors for design inspiration, but he's the first man I would go to for a great quip or learn the industry from.

original photos by David TW Leung

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Project Runway Casting Season 13

Are you in or are you out? If you are a fashion design talent with a flair for on-air drama, it's time to get your scissors out.  The producers of Project Runway are now casting for season 13 of the hit fashion design competition.

Get your couture look cobbled together from spare parts of some wreckage to be judged by the likes of Heidi Klum, Nina Garcia, Zac Posen after it was deciphered by mentor Tim Gunn.  You already know the rewards... $100K for your collection, pimped out design studio, fame, etc.  Even if you don't win, you get free room and board in a posh apartment in Midtown Manhattan and lots of exposure for your work.

To start, get your application in before September 9, 2013.  More information and forms can be found here.

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Tim Gunn's Fashion Bible: Release Party

 

Tuesday night, I paid a visit to my alma mater, Parsons at the The New School.  I was there to celebrate the book release of former faculty Tim Gunn's Fashion Bible.

Long before becoming a mentor on Project Runway, Tim Gunn was the calming, intelligent influence in The New School's administration.  He quickly boned up on all things fashion when he took over as dean of the fashion department after I graduated, (CFDA's Stan Herman was dean during my time).  I love that he recognizes certain aspects of the fashion industry are ridiculous (I'm talking about you Anna Wintour).  He may be a contemporary fashion icon, but he still lists "Educator" first among his various titles on Twitter.

His new book definitely shows his academic roots.  Tim Gunn's Fashion Bible, tag line "The Fascinating History of Everything in Your Closet" thoroughly explores the origins of iconic fashion items and their influence on modern dress.  Be prepared for a smarter, thoughtful commentary on fashion than your typical celebrity style guide.

A perfect tome to smarten up for NY Fashion week, all of his books can be purchased here.

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Scream Queen Glamour - Christian Siriano Fall 2012

Did you ever find classic horror heroines elegant and sexy?  Apparently designer Christian Siriano did.  For his darkest collection yet, the Project Runway winner paid homage to the divas of scare Saturday night at EyeBeam Studios. 

The prolific dressmaker sent elaborately detailed fishtail gowns, floating wings, ruched tulle, sequins and satin.  The palette had lots of sculptured black, dark blood red, with some ghostly white thrown in.  Hair was a severe pulled back ponytail and deep vamp lipstick.  Red carpet fantasies for those with a wicked sensibility.

Yes, we may have seen a lot of fishtails at recent awards shows, but Mr. Siriano exaggerates the silhouette even more, with more fluid fabrics.  Draped shoulder details turn into wings when the model moves.  Instead of ruching as a trim, it is stacked upon stacked to built structure.

Congratulations Christian, you have achieved elegance for the post-Twilight generation!

Photos by Ching Leung

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Project Runway Season 9 Casting!

This is it.  Are you ready to bring your designer 'A' game? Are you ready for catfights on AND off the runway?  Compete for fame and fortune....You know the rest...  Email the address above or check out the website for more information. 

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NY FASHION WEEK:Christian Siriano Fall 2011

Project Runway's most celebrated alumni sent his darker event dresses down the runway at the beginning of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.  He played with volume and sheer, with elaborate ruffling to dress up the ballgown silhouettes.  Black favored heavily in the overall palette, as Christian Siriano understands what "fierce" NY women like to wear.  One would think that the monochromatic presentation would be boring, but the designer kept the visuals interesting by mixing the weights and textures of the fabrics within each fabric.  Knits were layered with satin, chiffon with wool, etc.  

Accessories on the other, were not as successful.  Mr. Siriano's collaboration with Payless Shoes has been heavily promoted by the brand, but the footwear chosen for the show was awkward.  Perhaps the Payless platform just wasn't made for the runway walker, as several models were visibly challenged by them.

Siriano's glam-licious creations always bring out the stars...Mena Suvari, Gabrielle Union and Alexa Chung were spotted shopping from the front row.

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Diana Eng's Maker Faire Fashion Show

Hackers, Geeks, Mad Scientists....Not your usual front-row guests at a highly-anticipated fashion show.  The Maker Faire festival held at the New York Hall of Science was home to massive gathering of inventors this weekend.  Robots of all kinds mingled with jet-propelled rides.  

Diana Eng, originally of Project Runway fame is now a superstar among the hacker and tech community.  Last fashion season, she presented a small collection of fairy-tale inspired fashion works at Eyebeam Studios.  For this presentation, she brought a few of the favorites as well as works inspired by underwater creatures.  

Her signature hacker fashion is a cross between science-experiment and runway couture. A light-framed layered organza collar was embellished with an over-sized cameo (that doubled as battery pack). What starts as a stylish bubble skirt inflates to a balloon-like sculpture. Statement necklace takes on a whole new meaning when the jewels light up and glow.  

Diana Eng is the author of Fashion Geek: Clothes Accessories Tech.  I purchased the book right after seeing her last show.  It has a bunch of projects accessible to the average person for making wearable tech accessories.  The techniques are applicable for any designer looking to make their Geek flag really fly.

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NY FASHION WEEK: Christian Siriano - Spring 2011

Project Runway’s most successful alum presented his show yesterday at Lincoln Center.  The majority of the collection consisted of very wearable (retail-bait) dresses.  Many of the looks had his signature one-shoulder flourish.  There were the mass-appealing whites and tans for spring.  There was a beautiful collection of artful brush prints.

However, Christian Siriano fans did not come to the show for saleable clothes.  You could almost hear the sign of satisfaction (or relief?) when the over-the-top ballgowns came down the runway.  The drama queen of “fierce” did not disappoint.

The young designer is collaborating with Payless shoes.  I’m not sure what that partnership has done creatively, but the shoes on the model got pretty wild.  The avant-garde heels suited the flamboyant personality of the collection

Spotted in the front row: Veronica Webb, Maggie Grace, Alan Cummings

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Textile Design: Digital Printing vs. Old School

The fashion crowd has traditionally been criticized for their slow embrace of technology. Old masters deplore the loss of hand-drawn sketches, couture sewing techniques and artisan craftsmanship in today's mass market world.
Where does textile design fit into this debate? The Wall Street Journal recently ran an article on high end designers who have incorporated the use of digital fabric printing into their collections. Zac Posen and Helmut Lang were able to translate photographic images into dresses. Recent technology has allowed for sharper, crisper images that were not possible in the years before.
Theia designer Don O'Neill took advantage of the speed of this tool by combining the new and the old. He translated an original piece of art into a custom digital print fabric in time to be worn by Carrie Underwood for an awards night.
Does this technology take away from those who still illustrate patterns by hand and use silk screening as a couture art form? Not according to Catherine Malandrino, who vows to continue employing artists specifically for this purpose.

In my own experience of design, there is no technology that replaces hand appliques and embroidery as a technique.
The most recent season of Project Runway, designers worked with Vivienne Tam to create a digitally printed fabric. This is also the show where the talent is asked to create each outfit by hand and employ Haute Couture skills for the runway. It's about making finding new mediums to express creativity.
What is your favorite medium for design? Does digital open up new possibilities? Need to explore it more? Craftzine has a great guide to break it down.

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Hacker Fashion for Geeks and Dreamers

A week outside of the mainstream NY Fashion week, a Season 2 Project Runway alum presented her high-tech project to the world. Diana Eng, self proclaimed "Nerd" has been working on her "Fairytale Fashion" project at Eyebeam Atelier. The audience was noticeably absent of self-absorbed editors, preening socialites and all of the usual Garmento suspects. Instead, it was filled with students, brainy crafters, and the mathletes that would be Diana Eng's supportive fans.

The show itself was creatively inspiring. I'm happy to say that after a week of seeing the same color palettes at Bryant Park and Milk Studios, I was witness to something truly different. Diana Eng applied scientific principles, wiring and LED lights as embroidery and hems to cocktail dresses. A chic wedding dress inflated into a dramatic over-sized bow. A whimsical ballgown was filled with balloons that were released into the air, with twinkling lights as anchors. There were jackets with geometrically calculated pleating that collapsed onto itself for a hood or collar. Origami pleated sleeve adorned another jacket. One dress had roses projecting to the surface from within.

Instead of a pretentious DJ doing the soundtrack, four hackers created digital music with a wired felt pillow, hacked sewing machine and a bunch of laptops.

The only thing I miss from regular fashion week are the cocktails...Guests here were served fruit punch and honey tea. So much for giving up sobriety for Lent...

Photos by See-Ming Lee

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