#NYFWM: Christopher Lowman Spring 2018- Harvard Punk'd

Who's in for scholarly chic? Indie designer Christopher Lowman styled his Spring 2018 collection along with a collegiate theme. While the academic-inspired look is a hot trend, there was something darker and in tune with current times. 

There were team jackets and sweaters. Cropped pants were paired with New Balance Athletic shoes. Intellectual glasses were by Vivid Eyewear. The "nerd" specs are a particular weakness of mine when guys wear them. Fabric choices included leather to French terry, silk to suede. Raglan sleeves and denim all gave a look of an intense student who was also plotting a rebellion. The intensity of emotion of Lowman's muse. Specifically, that student who was battling anxiety of financial instability and mental health issues that lead to the possibility of becoming a college dropout. I thought it was an accurate snapshot of how the country worries about in general right now. Anxiety of money, health and failure is on the minds of many.

This was my first show of New York Fashion Week Menswear #NYFWM for this season. I wondered if the vibe this show created would be in tune with other collections to come. Fall 2017, the theme of protest was prevalent. Will Spring 2017 be the season of fear or anxiety? Christopher Lowman found his therapy in his clothes. 

Photos by Mariana Leung.

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Best Handbags from the Independent Handbag Designer Awards 2016

Congratulations to all of the talent who won an Independent Handbag Designer Awards last week. Competitors entered their work from countries all over the world. There has been a decade of indie designer labels and handbag designers that have built great brands or careers.

This Awards show may be less famous than the CFDA Awards a few weeks before, but of all of the fashion industry's events, I feel like this one is the most emotionally and creatively engaging for both the viewer and actual designers. More often than not, it's about what celebrity wore the designer. At the IHDA, designers are rewarded for their talent in craftsmanship, working with socially responsible initiatives or creating sustainable handbags.

Another moving aspect of this competition is how the designer have made the judges and audience a part of their personal journey in designer their collections. Creator Emily Blumenthal has personally been involved in reaching out to the designers across the world and learned from their stories. She often brings designers back in later years so fans like me can catch up on what the designers are doing in the years since then. I remember seeing a pregnant Blumenthal in the early years, and in 2016, her daughter is now in charge of handing out the trophies. It was an apt image representing how both her personal family and the handbag designer family has grown.

We at Ms. Fabulous asked Emily Blumenthal a few questions about her experience with the awards over the years:

Ms. Fabulous: After a decade of being Godmother to handbag designers around the world, what was your proudest moment from the past ten years?

Emily Blumenthal: There have been so many. We are just thrilled to have helped so many and discover talent that would have never been found.

Ms. F: How has the handbag industry changed since the first awards, for the better or worse?
E.B.: The market always works in cycles. It's definitely making a comeback now.

Ms. F: I love that you update us on what past winners are doing. Do you keep up relationships with designers over the years? Are people collaborating?

E.B.:  We always maintain relationships with our past finalists and winners. Their successes we celebrate with them.

Ms. F How has mentoring independent designers affected your work?
E.B.: We work with designers to ensure they make good decisions and keep their line on trend and not price themselves out of
the market.

Ms. F:  Do you have an all-time favorite handbag design?
E.B.: Can't pick favorites…

I ran into former winner Lorna Nixon (winner in multiple years). A Brit, who moved to New York now working for a larger brand, but also working on a collaboration with this year's Bernina Best Made Handbag, Stevan Saville. Other winners include Carolina Kuhnen Ecco as the Best Student Made Handbag, Jacqueline Suriano for the Most Socially Responsible Bag, Zeh Liu for the Mary Kay cosmetics bag, Cathleen Nicol for the Trina Turk Resort Bag, Adrian Furstenburg for the Guess Logo Handbag, Stacy Chan won Pantone's Wild Color Card Award, Yanique Moore won Audience Fan Favorite and finally, Tiffany and Lynn Lu for the Best Handbag in Overall Style and Design.

To all of the finalists and winners of the Independent Handbag Designer Awards 2016, bravo!

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Parsons Fashion Show 2016: The Dreamers

Congratulations to the fashion design graduates of Parsons School of Design. I'll be bringing you my favorite looks from the Parsons Fashion Show 2016. I love seeing how fashion and new designers evolve every year at my alma mater. Today I am showcasing the sculpted wearable art of the fashion dreamers (and my three favorites).

 Jackson Wiederhoeft opened his show with a fantasy video showcasing his "Dollies". The looks were a mix of fairy-tale, Baroque and club kid glam. He loves to explore and blur gender lines, as long as his muse has the right attitude. While his personal collection is closer to costume design, he already has a job lined up developing collections with Thom Browne.

Annie Li designs through emotions and the transformative power of clothing in the realm of art. Her collection played with style lines, silhouette, unusual ways to cover the body and odd proportions. The quirky collection mixes the whimsy of childhood with adult sophistication in the clothing execution. She had some of the prettiest embellishments with embroidery in her applique flowers. She had already won multiple design awards before her graduation and launched her eyewear collection. 

When I first saw the all-ivory knit collection of JZ (aka Sijun Guo), I was impressed at the beautiful silhouettes and mastery of textile. Then, when I saw the back of these dresses I almost fell off my chair. These were walking sculptures of animal heads roaring right off the body. As fantastic as each look was, I can still see many people wearing them. The single neutral color was an apt choice as it made you appreciate the fully dimensional quality of her work. The collection of soft chains and animals had a narrative that expressed her emotion and fine art background in an antidote to the typical "fashion portfolio".

A major difference between when I graduated from Parsons Fashion and now is how savvy designers are in creating their brand. Many of the designers had multi-media presentations and a following on social media already. Many have already been slick about getting press for themselves for their work. This is all before they even graduate. In my time, there was a strong emphasis on designing for "7th avenue". These designers here are following their art and emotion to create their collection.

Stayed tuned for more designers from the Parsons Fashion Show 2016!

All photos by Mariana Leung

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Parsons Fashion 2014 - Menswear

 Congratulations designers, you made it.  The fashion design graduates of Parsons New School of Design held its first runway show in its new digs last night.  I'll start with the menswear designers.  As you can see above, there were some dapper collections with some retro intellectual styling by Jennifer Lee and Moon Kyung Hwang.  Another with very effective use of black and white to graphic effect by In Seop Keum.

You had your more artistic collection from Simon Li that played on big wide proportions and variations in dyes and textures.

Then there were these looks by Hye GIn Hamm and Young Ji Cho that mixed sportswear and pajamas.  I wasn't quite sure if this was meant to be humorous or ironic.  The security blanket and pillow made the theme clear.  The clothes themselves were well fit and too tailored to look like they were really meant to be slept in.  However, they do look mighty comfortable right now.

photos by Mariana Leung

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Resurgence Detroit - Ann Yee Spring 2014

I love a designer who creates on a cerebral level and an aesthetic one.  Ann Yee's spring 2014 collection for NY Fashion Week was first inspired by the history of urban Detroit.  She thought about its decayed architecture and economic state and now the progressing resurgence as a city.  How did she translate this on a fashion level?

There were industrial colors of steel grey and concrete softened with some pale blue and pink.  Her silhouettes in woven items had architectural elements mixed with detailed knitwear design.  Metallics were used in the fabrics, accessories and styling as tribute to the automotive industry.  The star print in her presentation was one created from a series of photographs taken by her cousin and brother of the city.  Images of iconic Detroit buildings, graffiti, urban corners showed that even the simplest parts of a community can be beautiful.

Print created by Ann Yee's family

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Singer 22 Open Call for New Designers

Is your collection ready to roll?  Singer 22 is an online retailer with two brick and mortar store locations that stocks contemporary designers like Haute Hippie, J Brand and Rag & Bone.   They are looking for new designer labels to carry in their design competition this season.

If you have what it takes, then gather together your look book, line sheets, pricing and of course, your contact information.  You will be asked to upload those to their site as well as explain why you should be their winner.  If you make it to the next round, you will be invited to present your collection to a panel of judges on June 19, 2013 in NYC.

ENTER HERE. The entry deadline is Sunday, June 9, 2013 (HURRY!)

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Bella Sisters - Upcycled Chic

Happy Earth day! As a fashion designer, how do you design a truly Eco-friendly collection?  The Bella Sisters are a team I found in Portland's Saturday Market that answers that question.

A truly sustainable label, designers Cynthia and Jenna Rose up cycle old blazers and coats into their own brand of embellished  outerwear.

Too often, stores that carry so-called up cycled clothing end up looking like a Frankenstein of misfit garments.  Bella Sisters has a distinct aesthetic that make each piece clearly their own. The jackets have flattering fits with their signature back waist pin tucks or contrast tie belt.  A coordinated hood are a constant as are cozy knit cuffs or romantic ruffles.

  Most beautifully, each jacket is embroidered with woolen appliqués that have motifs like birds and flowers on branches, jelly fish or a radiant heart.  The embellishments are always complementary to the fabrics of the jacket and include dimensional details like beads and semi precious stones.

Cynthia and Jenna are actually cousins, but growing up in Seattle and sharing a passion for making things resulted in their partnership as close an any sibling.

To recap, Bella Sisters sources locally, are made locally and transforms previously loved clothing into a one of a kind fashion.  They are happy to do custom pieces for their fans.

I think this is the fashion label for our times.  Innovative, great style, planet friendly and smart. I was happy to support them and love the jacket I bought.  Get on board and do the same!

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Portland Skin Job: Orox Leather Co.

I found several gems in Portland this weekend.  Orox Leather Company is a family business of leather artisans with a workshop and retail store in the Chinatown and Pearl District of the city.  The operation started from Oaxaca, Mexico with Don Pepe in 1933.  Several generations later, the label was moved to Oregon and run by grandson Jose Martinez and great grandson Martin.

  When I first stepped into the store, I inhaled the rich smell of good leather.  The shop offered handmade bags, shoes, wallets, belts and gifts made by craftsmen right in front of your eyes. Like many independent companies in Portland, Orox Leather tries to be a sustainable business by using eco-friendly finishing methods and locally sourced or recycled materials.

In chatting with Martin, he expressed that having the workshop on site with the retail store was perfect for collaborating with customers’ directly on custom pieces or responding to the most demanded trends. 

Rather than smacking on dye and paint to cover textural differences, I loved the rugged, hardy bags that were finished to truly showcase the character of the skins instead.  There were a lot of masculine, doctors’ bags and innovative messenger-like styles.  A bag that resembled an attaché had a front zipper instead of top to have a cleaner shape and line.  Hand tooled sandals were part of their original product lineup and looked like what every Oregon resident covets.  Smaller goods had a great hand-feel. 

This company combines family, fashion, a great coming-to-America story and a great product! Shop local!

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Top Ten Websites for Indie Fashion Designers

Designers! Whether you are a fashion fan looking to jump in, or a veteran of the industry, starting your own indie fashion venture is intimidating.  Luckily, the internet has great resources for fashion entrepreneurs of every level.  Here are my top ten websites for start-up fashion:

Reference/Sourcing:

Looking to produce locally?  I was just introduced to Maker’s Row.  It is a beautifully designed site that vets domestic factories for clothing and accessories.  

Fashiondex has been around for awhile.  The site isn't fancy, but lists lots of suppliers to cut the legwork down for everything from trims, fabric, contractors and publications.

Startup Fashion is a great site for looking up industry terminology, retailers and articles for design entrepreneurs.

Opportunities:

The Emerging Designer has fantastic articles on doing business, design competitions or other opportunities to be seen and purchased.

Handbag Designer 101 is for all of you accessories designers.  It runs conferences, lists jobs and services and hosts an annual design competition that has jump started many a successful label. 

GenArt.org has been around for years and they aim to promote and showcase creative from art, film and fashion.  Alumni include everyone from Zac Posen to Rodarte.     

Inspiration:

WGSN is a paid subscription site, and if you work for a larger firm, you might get access.  Otherwise, try for their student or group subscriptions, or follow their blog.  They have amazing reports on color, retail display, patterns, product categories, packaging, everything you can think of.  Highly addictive.

If you don’t already know Pinterest , you shouldn’t be in this biz at all… Target your image searches for specific inspiration and follow your heroes.  It is also good for getting feedback on your own work or attracting new sales.

Marketing and PR:

PR Couture is a wonderfully comprehensive site for learning about the do’s and don’ts of PR that apply specifically to fashion creatives.  Learn etiquette, case studies, tips and great resources from Crosby Noricks, one of the best in the biz.

Design Sponge is one of my favorite sites for overall design, but their Biz Ladies column is one of the most helpful I have come across for creative people learning the nitty gritty of business.  (Legal? Taxes? E-commerce and SEO marketing?) The language is written from successful design entrepreneurs who have already learned their lessons and can explain their advice in words we get. 

Good luck, and onto fame and fortune everyone!

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Get Cast in Rihanna's Fashion Design Competition

Designers! Are you ready to dress the hottest entertainers in the biz?  Rihanna is casting her new fashion design competition show for television.

You have to be at least 21 and actually have true design chops to compete.  The application process alone requires sketches, photos of your collection that you have actually made and produced, close-up images that showcase expert details you are capable of like embroidery and pleating, and even your patterns !  You need to also submit a video showcasing yourself in your most dynamic light.   

Make no mistake, Rihanna and team are taking this very seriously, and you had better be too if you hope to compete.  

Get all the details and info on how to apply here.

Your deadline to enter is Wednesday, January 21, 2013

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Design Contest: Stitch Collective Handbag Design

Stitch Collective is a New York-based handbag line that collaborates with independent designers to develop their collection. They produce all their handbags in their New York factory and sell direct to consumer online which helps keep costs low.

For December, they have a design challenge for designers to  “design a bag born to rule the city streets.”

Contest Details:

“As many city dwellers do, we’ve been searching high and low for the perfect handbag — the one that will get you from lunch dates to the office, from errands to happy hour. We want to be able to toss in all of the city’s daily essentials and take it with us. It should be worthy of street-style stars and simultaneously practical. We want luxury and sensibility to keep up with a flexible metropolitan lifestyle. Keep in mind color, material and silhouette to create a sartorial treat both timeless and original.”

On January 1, consumers and fans will get to vote on the handbag design. In February, the winner will be announced and featured on their website.

The winning bag will go into production and the designer will receive $500 along with exposure and mention of their name.

Sketches should include the following details in jpeg or pdf format and be emailed to sketch@stitchcollective.com.

• Front, side and back view in black and white with dimensions listed
• One front view in color
• Design can include material, hardware and any other specs

The design challenge is open to U.S. residents and submissions are rolling until noted on their website.

Good luck!!!

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Vile and Valiant Fashion Design Contest

Calling all indie designers! Trendy Chicago boutique Vile and Valiant is holding a fashion design competition for the most fabulous dress.. Open to up-and-coming designers who have already made the dress and would be ready for it to be displayed.

According to their website, the Pret-a-porter contest is looking for dresses that " push the boundaries of fashion and creativity while creating beautiful, wearable pieces of clothing."  

You need to fill out an application, send up to 5 photos, describe your materials and your concept for entry.  The grand prize winner will win $1000, runners up will receive gift certificates for the store.

Good luck!

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The Creator's Co-Op store opening - a collective for new talent

The Creator's Co-Op store is a designer's co-operative which is poised to make Astoria a required stop for cool shoppers in New York.  It opened last week with a charming launch party Friday night.

According to the Creator's Co-Op's founder, Kazuki Kozuru-Salifoska , the boutique is  a "co-operative style store of like-minded artists, designers, and craft people."  The space is a roster of  emerging talent from design schools like Parsons and FIT along with other designers who wanted to share their work in a collective design retail space.  The Co-Op houses a diverse group of eclectic and talented designers who make everything from fantastical Lemony Snicket-esque clocks with the secret musical keys to uber  chic, indie children's line, Baby Noir. 

Kazuki is also the brainchild and indie fashion designer of Baby Noir clothing for kids. Baby Noir is a collection of seriously cool children's clothing which is designed and made in New Y ork City.  Baby Noir dresses range from $28 - $78  with every piece lined in cotton as is the brighter, more bohemian line, Baby Solaire.  

Each square foot

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