LONDON: Lore of Loverboy Exhibit - Club to Catwalk Punk

I just returned from London, where I wondered what the state of punk fashion was today. At Somerset House, there was a fabulous exhibit by designer-in-residence Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY. 

The designer's looks include fans like Tilda Swinton and Harry Styles. What makes his work classically British punk is the incorporation of traditional Tartans and a healthy dose of anarchy. What makes his work modern club fashion is the mix of surrealism and novelty motifs with streetwear. What makes LOVERBOY art are the pieces that double as sculptures, like the Wedgewood dragon helmet, repurposed trash dress, or my favorite banana shoes below.

The spirit of punk fashion started off as anti-establishment and involved mutilated, trashed clothing in many cases. Fashion collections from many a "club kid" turned "designer" often have little merit or endurance. Ten years into his thriving label and seeing Charles Jeffrey's workspace and process, the "club kid" persona should be the very least of his designer identity. Seeing the sketches, the pattern and draping, the official tartan registry certificate, and the thoughtfulness of his collaborations, the LOVERBOY works more like a classic couturier atelier than many contemporary labels.

For anyone who thinks the art in modern club fashion, or social media savvy designers is gone. They only need to see the Charles Jeffrey Loverboy collection to restore their faith.

The Lore of Loverboy exhibit runs until September 1, 2024.

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#NYFWM: Rochambeau Fall 2017 Anarchy

One of the biggest trends of NYFWM fall 2017 was one of resistance. From protest signs to more subtle messages of inclusion; designers were making statements across all of their collections. This season, Rochambeau designers Joshua Copper and Laurence Chandler dug deep into the punk scene of the 1980s for their muse. 

The duo first looked to the imagery of Henry Rollins' Hot Animal Machine album. They tracked down the man behind the cover who turned out to be DEVO's Mark Mothersbaugh to collaborate. Other influences included the acts of other subversive performers, like Tupac Shakur's performance in Bishop and the booking of the band FEAR on Saturday Night Live due to John Belushi insistence. 

The runway show opened with disturbed dancers in masks, jumpsuits and dripped paint styled on their head. They continued to set the mood of anarchy throughout the presentation. 

The clothing features Peruvian knits, protest messages, oversized graphics and embroideries. The designers also added lots of hidden details that could only be appreciated when the clothing is examined up close. The models were also styled in dripped paint, but also fishnet masks, safety pinned anarchy notes and combat boots. 

Rochambeau Fall 2017 continues to keep ahead of the menswear game. Their anti-establishment message serves to make all of NYFWM their rabid fans. Welcome to Anarchy in the USA.

photos by Mariana Leung

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#MENSWEAR: Dr. Martens Spirit of '69

The iconic Doc Martens boot brand celebrated the “Spirit of ‘69” last night on the Lower East Side.  In its latest campaign, British rapper Mike Skinner and photographer Gavin Watson have evoked the rebellious spirit, music and skinhead culture of 1960’s that made the brand the punk fashion icon it is today.  Dr. Marten’s also collaborated with brands like Trojan Records, Alpha Jackets, Brutus Shirts and Edwin Jeans that they felt also contributed to the culture of that time.

While Dr. Martens was traditionally made in the U.K. did you know there really was a “Doc”?  Dr. Klaus Maertens was a German inventor who originally created the label’s signature air sole to relieve the pain of his own injured foot.  The original work boots were worn by policemen and postmen. Certain styles are still being made in the original Cobbs Lane factory in England where they started in 1901.

The party was held at the three floor nightclub at The Delancey.  The palm tree filled rooftop and faux-grungy basement floors make it one of the clubs where you can still enjoy a variety punk, rock and reggae on the Lower East Side of NYC.  This was a fitting location for guests to dance to their choice of music and throw back a Red Stripe beer or Sailor Jerry.

New York was once a great place for rock n’ roll.  Based on the number of guests last night, there was no shortage of fans for the genre.  Rockers need to pull on their boots and stomp their way back to New York. Win your own pair of Dr. Marten's by showing your style here.

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Vivienne Westwood Romances the Vienna Ballet

The Vienna State Ballet rang in the New Year with opulent style.  British designer Vivienne Westwood created costumes for the ballet dancers performing during intermission at a New Year’s Day concert in Austria.   

The fashion icon’s tulle and post-punk tartan looks took inspiration from her Spring 2014 collection.  The romantic aesthetic was then pushed to functional fantasy as each costume was custom tailored to the dancers
in silk taffeta ball gowns or bespoke menswear. 

While some of the costumes initially looked to have traditional silhouettes, you can see the deeper, darker coloring in the rich taffeta hues paired with sexy, unusual ruching in the bodices and skirts.  Black satin ballet shoes often replaced traditional baby pink.  Super-short pleated miniskirts in plaid replace the conventional tutu prove that VivienneWestwood will always be punk’s Godmother.  

I can’t imagine a more gorgeous way to start 2014.  Can you?
Photos by ORF/Günther Pichlkostner

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Herve Leger Spring 2014

What makes your outfit sexy?  Is it the accessories, you or the clothing? The Herve Leger Spring 2014 collection made an argument for all three. Intricate kaleidoscope prints were paired with gorgeous leather corset belts.  Many of the pieces were elaborately trimmed with zippers for a luxe punk touch.  You could actually wear these with more sedate pieces at the office to add an edgy look.  

Instead of Herve Leger’s signature elastic band dresses, there were some interesting layered knit dresses.  I’m wondering if these have the same supportive functional as the classic dresses did.  If they don’t, that could be losing many of their hard core fans. 

There were a lot of swimwear looks as part of this collection; probably to capture the St. Tropez, Ibiza or even South Beach crowd.  They looked hot.

Accessories included sleek clutch handbags for another season (also in their sister collection BCBG).  Shoes were simple wide band sandals with chunky clear heels. 

 As good as the prints and swimwear looked though; my criticism here is that it looked quite a bit like the Gottex collection for the past two seasons.    The leather pieces with the ruffles, perforated patterns and bustier looks were reminiscent of Gaultier, Dolce & Gabbana and other designers of seasons past. I know there is very little originality in fashion anymore, but it shouldn't be so obvious from a label that already has a very distinctive identity.  When many iconic labels have reinvented their heritage image, why is this one abandoning theirs?

What did you think of this collection?

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Cyber Princess or Punk at Falguni and Shane Peacock Spring 2014

These guys are rapidly coming up the list as one of my favorite shows at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.  Once again, the husband and wife duo of Falguni and Shane Peacock has created an edgy, but luxurious collection made for pop stars to drool.

The intricate digital prints were already high impact.  Then, the florals and kaleidoscope patterns were layered with metallic trim or elaborate embroidery.  Dyed feathers or crystals further embellished some pieces.  This was all interpreted into very sexy dresses or skin tight pants.

Accessories included hardcore black leather and brass cuffs or neck chokers.  The strappy boot styles were sexy and bondage inspired.

This collection already has fans in Paris Hilton and Lady Gaga.  As you might guess, the Falguni and Shane Peacock label is not meant for the office wallflower.  I love that the designers did not create a literal punk inspired collection.  They worked edgy elements into what were very sophisticated silhouettes and construction.

How would you dress your inner punk princess?

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Punk: Chaos to Couture

The city of New York roared a sartorial rebel yell last night with the opening of Punk: Chaos to Couture.  The legendary Met Gala thrown by the Metropolitan Museum of Art brings the most elite of the fashion crowd up the red carpeted steps to see the exhibit.

The punk movement was born in the mid 1970's both in New York at clubs like CBGB's and in London with Malcolm McLaren and then girlfriend, Vivienne Westwood.  The first section of the exhibit had reproductions of the gritty CBGB bathroom (I’m sure the socialites and Anna Wintour can relate to this) and simulation of iconic punk fashion boutique Seditionaries’ from Great Britain.  Degraded t-shirts with subversive messages, bondage inspired outfits held together with safety pins were in full display from Westwood and McLaren .

Speaking of safety pins, it’s hard to imagine punk fashion without the metal hardware.  If you haven’t overdosed on the volume of spikes in the retail scene the past two years, prepare for another onslaught.  Pins, studs, spikes, grommets, staples and logo embossed metallic trims were showcased on the designs of Balenciaga, Gianni Versace, Victor & Rolf, Givenchy, Moschino and Dolce & Gabbana.

Doesn’t sound very anarchistic?  This exhibition is the ultimate example of street style influencing haute couture.  There is a room of graffiti influenced fashion from the likes of Stephen Sprouse to Ann Demeulemeester.  The Alexander McQueen dress that was famously spray painted with robotic air nozzle guns on the runway was on display as well.

There was always the basic culture of DIY and artistic expression in punk fashion.  There was an interesting gallery, “Bricolage” that focused on style that was created from found objects, fashion from garbage from designers like Martin Margiela, John Galliano and Prada. While scholars referenced this as punks’ “violent” tendencies in the cutting up of materials, I saw this as contemporary and eco-friendly.  The dresses made from garbage bags, broken dishes and postage fashion is very “green”.  To me, I interpreted this as a message against mass consumption. 

The last gallery was “Destroy”.  Imagine it being screamed from the Nick Knight-made films all over the show featuring Sid Vicious.  I thought it would show lots of fashion and prestige labels being torn down from social upheaval throughout the decades.  Nope, designers like Balmain, Chanel and Yohji Yamamoto were displayed showing outfits with different techniques of distressed fabrics or deliberate sabotage in embellished holes.

“Destroying” incredibly expensive clothing with intent with the idea that it will appeal to the young market is not very punk to me.  The youth culture that started the movement was poor and was protesting the elite establishment.  However, the designers curated for this show are all incredibly successful, prestigious global brands that the 99% of the Occupy Wall Street movement cannot afford.  This also reflects the entire guest list attending the evening’s gala.

Don’t get me wrong, I loved this exhibit and these are all designers that I grew up idolizing.  In the spirit of the subject though, I would have liked to see representation from modern unknown fashion labels or designers who truly DID do business in a way that went against the grain since McLaren and Westwood. 

The couture “punk” references the themes of the 70’s and 80’s aesthetic but doesn’t ask what today’s “punk” is?  Would that be a coat made of Guy Fawkes masks?  Would it be a sculpted dress made of melted water bottles? Is it just a naked person wearing the ashes of their pink slips?  What is YOUR idea of punk?

   The exhibit runs until August 14th, 2013.

See the rest of my photos here:

(All photos by Mariana Leung)

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Big British Invite - Punk and Liberty Prints

Hopping across the pond? British Airways and the British tourism board hosted a fantastic party to entice us Yankees to visit.  They did all the right things, making their "Big British Invite" party a celebration of fashion, food and brilliant cocktails.

There was a tribute to Punk fashion, highlighting designers like Rick Owens, Gareth Pugh and Vivienne Westwood.  The anarchist style will soon be the theme of the Metropolitan Museum of Art's upcoming exhibit as well.

Liberty London showcased their beautiful prints and scarves.  They gave demonstrations on various ways to tie them in every chic way.  You can check out their video demos on different styles here.

The tradition of high tea was honored with a sampling of Sanderson Hotel's Mad Hatter's tea service.  Cocktails inspired by a traditional constable's "bribe" was given a high tech treatment of applewood smoke infusion by expert mixologists.  Other libations included gin and lagers from the country.

I had a great time and being the sucker that I am, I am quite eager to visit London very soon.  Perhaps when I receive my invite to Kate Middleton's baby shower?

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Libertine Spring 2013

In a world of big brands, how many designers are still artists?  Johnson Hartig of Libertine still paints, crafts, embellishes with his hands.  His fashion show at Pier 57 for New York Fashion Week reminded me of performance art of Downtown New York's past.

Vintage clothing pieces were embroidered, multi-colored paint spots was a running theme.  Gigantic papier mache cuffs embedded with large crystals was a popular accessory.  Mass production is definitely not a part of this business plan.  When my colleague Mdivani Monroe interviewed Hartig, he described everything from current politics, his friends and abstract nature as his inspiration.  I got the impression that he was probably one of those hyper children that used to have to be tethered to the playground in younger years...

Early champions of his work included Anna Wintour and Karl Lagerfeld.  Perhaps they saw in him an idealistic idea of fashion still being an art for art's sake  while they of all people know it is not true in their own circles.

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