#NYFW: Tadashi Shoji Spring 2015

Leave it lace.  Tadashi Shoji’s fashion show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week demonstrated all of the beautiful things you could do with lace.  There were two-toned black and white laces.  There were engineered motifs.  There were soft monochromatic laces in rich blue hues.  There were daytime outfits that used lace as a trim or inserted panel. 

The overall effect was a beautiful, feminine collection that had a classic elegance.  While many other designers are showing a lot of bare skin, Tadashi Shoji’s offered a variety of sleeve lengths and longer hemlines.  This shows an awareness of his customer and more practical dressing.  Contrary to what many of us like to see in magazines, there are a lot of people who actually like a bit more coverage in real life.  There is also a large (wealthy) shopping contingent that also follows more modest dress rules (they call themselves “Mipsters”) in accordance with their religion.  Not only that, when “spring” clothes hits the stores, it’s actually the beginning of February.

Now, if you would like some skin showing, there were long gowns that showed the leg through very sheer lace.  If you just want a peek of skin, there were styles that offered that in the form of a narrow transparent panel across the collarbone.

Tadashi Shoji also offered forgiving silhouettes like relaxed shifts and capes.  These styles looked no less tailored as they were beautifully finished with the most delicate of fabrics.

It’s nice to know there is at least one high end designer who consciously designs for all body types and communities within his collection.  This is a fact that women who don’t fit the traditional Hollywood body type have learned to embrace on the red carpet.  Isn’t it comforting to know that whatever shape you get into, Tadashi Shoji has your back!

photos by Mariana Leung

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J. Mendel Spring 2014

How many ways can you wear lace?  J. Mendel's Spring 2014 collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week was a beautiful showcase of dresses.  There was an abundance of fishtail gowns perfect for the awards season red carpet.  Beaded, crochet, cutwork textures were pieced together in seam lines that emphasized flattering curves of the body.  Satin faced organza and silk crepe gave a light, airy, translucent look that hinted at the body underneath but didn't reveal it.  

The color palette was light, in a chiffon yellow, raspberry, peach, taupe and accents of black and ivory.  There were just a few fur accented pieces, much less than previous seasons considering this was originally a fur label.  Perhaps there just are as many fur customers in the spring.  

Handbags were structured, oblong shapes picking up the colors of the clothing. Some were color blocked.  The shoes had narrow stiletto heels with curving style lines around the foot.  The mix of sheer and solid echoed the theme of the clothing, though not literally.

A palm front motif was implemented in some pieces.  Sometimes it was a literal green leafed print, others it was a texture in a brocade.

J. Mendel is the master of sexy, luxe and ladylike.  It's no surprise that I see this label on celebrity after celebrity.  Perfectly tasteful, I picture Joan Rivers being frustrated when she does her Fashion Police recap.
Photos by Mariana Leung

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Exhibit: Lingerie Francaise

Do you love lacy underthings?  The French do.  They just debuted a pop-up exhibit in tribute to the history of their own lingerie at the Chelsea Market in New York City.  The Lingerie Francaise exhibit covers intimate apparel from the corset's heyday at the end of the 19th century through the movement towards more functional garments and using knit fabric in undergarments.

Bras became mainstream for women at the beginning of World War I.  In the 1920's, with straight bodied shifts and flappers in vogue, the girdle became a staple. In the 1930's, curvy, body conscious fashion was the style of the day and then supportive girdle belts and brads became indispensable.  Key brands in France included corsetiers Lisa Charmel, Simone Perele and Gaby, later Lejaby.

After World War II, the introduction of nylon revolutionized the industry with its durability, cost and ease of maintenance.  Fashions like the popularity of the mini-skirt and pants changed the way women dressed underneath once again.  You couldn't wear a girdle or garters with that, so stockings and brief style panties became de rigeur.   With the bra-burning feminist movement in the 1970's, lingerie manufacturers designed underwear that was light and comfortable enough to feel nude.  The 1980's brought lingerie to the exterior for fashion, so the styles had to be worthy.

The end of this exhibit is a showcase of the sponsoring lingerie brands most recent collections.  From those, I can interpret the trends of today are lots of embroidery and luxury.  So what pretty thinks are YOU wearing underneath?

The exhibits ends on August 6, 2013.  It is located at Chelsea Market at 75 Ninth Avenue in New  York City.

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NY FASHION WEEK: Tadashi Shoji Fall 2012

I was positively drooling over many of the gowns from this show...Yards of vintage floral printed silk, lace, embroidered tulle, burnout velvet.  If I could, I wear these fabrics 24/7.  Unfortunately, my lifestyle doesn't allow it.  However, seeing the frocks down the runway, it allowed me to dream.

The inspiration was 1930's Shanghai, without obvious Chinoiserie. This did mean big Oriental blooms in silk, draped like old Hollywood glamour.

While my fellow bloggers watched the show from the posh comfort of the American Express skybox, I was buried deep in the grungier photographer's pit snapping away at next year's red carpet triumphs.

My blogging colleagues relayed the designer himself graced the skybox and told a very touching story about SAG/Golden Globe winning, Oscar nominated actress Octavia Spencer's humble joy in dressing in Tadashi Shoji for her red carpet moment.

The gowns (click through the whole slideshow!) were both sexy and elegant . Unlike many red carpet creations though, these dresses were flattering for most women of all body types.

The Academy Awards are coming up soon...Are you ready?

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Wacoal's How to Fit Yourself for a Bra

Does your cup runneth over?  Do they ride up, shift, make you uncomfortable, or make you yearn for the braless days of your ancestors?

Wacoal hosted a bra-fitting event at the penthouse of the London Hotel to coach women into outfitting their tatas for maximum appeal.  Most women already wear the wrong sized bra because they are unaware of their own proportions.  Almost all women are not symmetrical from one breast to the other.

I always assumed as a fashion industry professional, I had my girls in the right sized bra.  Every measurement chart appeared to confirm this.  After a fitting with Wacoal's regional manager Dawn Kenney, I discovered I was wrong.  With one glance, she informed me that the band was too large and the cups too small.  Now, my cups never did run over, and the band didn't slide up (the obvious signs of the wrong size).  She measured several points and confirmed that while the numbers said one thing, her expertise directed her to have me try on another size.  

I was pleasantly surprised to find that a bra size that I never thought I would wear instantly felt more secure and tailored under my clothes.  Ms. Kenney confirmed that having the right bra lifts your chest into fitting the proportions of clothes and can take ten pounds off your overall look.  

Her advice for fitting the lopsided rack?  Find bras with good stretch along the center front edge of the cups.  The helps to support and fit different sized breasts.  Another tip?  Look for seamed cups and lining along the side of the cup for tailored shape.  

One of the most perplexing things about attending events like this is that I end up spending lots of money afterward.  Due to my fuller sized bra requirements, it is very difficult to find delicate pretty underthings to fit me well.  I was ecstatic (my wallet begged to differ) to find that they had a huge selection of gorgeous lingerie to fit me the way I needed to.  I ended up buying five new sets of bras the day after!

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MILAN FASHION WEEK: Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2011

In New York, it was all about crochet and eyelet.  For Dolce & Gabbana ready to wear, it was about lace.  Most of the collection turned out look after look of easy, spring-friendly white outfits.  Feminine lace dresses that looked perfect in a green meadow.

There were a few pieces with their signature leopard print incorporated into the lace.  A few unstructured suits in an equally ladylike floral pattern as well.   Accessories included demure tiny handbags with gold chains and larger sleeker carryalls in white or leopard.  Earrings were big and bold.

While the collection was mostly very pretty, many of the looks reminded my of sleepwear.  A lot of the silhouettes, while gorgeous on a professional runway model, would look like a maternity nightgown on the average person.  

Photos by Yannis Vlamos of Style.com and Gorunway.com

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