Sunday, January 24, 2016
The runway was a parade of Eastern chic for Carmen Marc Valvo's spring 2016 collection. The color palette was a stark black and white with deep red as an accent color. There was a continuous theme of brushstrokes as a motif. It was in painterly prints but also echoed in the embroidery.
The designer used a mix of leather and python paired with delicate soft silks. When combined together into a longer gown, the effect was sexy and edgy on top, flowing into feminine and soft at the bottom. The bodice often had a sporty, sharp cut neckline or shoulder treatment while the skirts were full and sweeping.
When I worked for Carmen Marc Valvo as an intern wayyyy back in my Parsons School of Design days, there was a lot of beading, embellished cocktail dresses and gowns. There were fancy suits that appealed to a mother of the bride. This runway show has shown that his label has branched out into swimwear and menswear with the same level of luxury and design. Men's jackets had the painted prints. The swimsuits carried through the looks of the red carpet gown so you can continue the black tie aesthetic from pool to gala.
The inky prints included abstract brushstrokes to whooping crane paintings that looked like traditional sumi-e art. There were floral patterns in all size scales. They ranged from dainty floating flowers to giant blooms that read more like a painted texture.
For the makeup, however, the stylists opted for exaggerated slanted eye makeup, almost like an Asian cliche. I felt this was tacky and unnecessary to get the theme across. The clothing spoke for itself. The hair was slicked back and simple. The shoes were rather minimal with wide straps around the ankle and front foot.
Carmen Marc Valvo's spring 2016 collection was a pretty one. This is another designer I would love to see more of during awards season. The designers loyal fans would agree. I have met some longtime friends during my short internship at this label. I love a company that produces relationships as much as it does dresses.