NYFW: AdoreMe's Romantic Takeover, Plus, Ashanti!

Are you ready for romance? AdoreMe's inclusive lingerie collection opened and got NY Fashion Week off to a sexy start. When this brand first came on my radar, I was impressed that it claimed to have over 60 sizes. As a technical designer, fitting intimate apparel is already tough, let along for an extensive range of sizes as they claimed to offer. 

I first tried their offerings in 2020 when I was a different size. I tried them again in recent seasons. I am not proportional, finding bras particularly hard to find. I must say, for their cute, themed collections, cut-outs, straps, etc. Their fit was spot-on! Their prices are reasonable, which is another tough thing to do for detailed lingerie. 

While many companies claim to be inclusive in their sizing, they don't show that in their marketing. This runway appeared to show models that flaunted their full range of sizing in all shapes with great attitude. 

The lineup was divided into three moods, with the design director narrating the runway in the style of "Bridgerton". The first was ready for Valentine's Day, the second had a more tropical palette, the final group had a bridal theme. 2023's bow trend was going strong as the top accesory for hair, bras and butts.

As a surprise, the fashion show closed with a surprise performance by superstar Ashanti. The glowing singer slayed the stage in a sexy leather outfit and jewel-studded microphone. The entire crowd joined in singing with her in the after-party. 

Happy Valentine's Day!

Photos by Mariana Leung

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Golden Globes Red Carpet - Beyond Sample Size

Happy 2017 awards season! I am dishing on my favorite Golden Globes red carpet looks based on how well fashion designers accepted the challenge of fitting a celebrity outside of their comfort zone.

It is easy for a designer to knock out a gown in their sample runway size with no extra curves, made for a size 0 of a 5'8" body frame. Many (gorgeous) celebrities who don't fit this exact proportion have told their tale of rejection and frustration of designers who are unable to accommodate them.

Christian Siriano has been a vocal champion of celebrities outside of the typical sample size, coming to Leslie Jones' rescue and featuring varied body types as models at his last NYFW fashion show. Several actresses were dressed by him for this awards show, including Rachel Bloom in the embroidered black gown up top. Bloom's viral song from her show, Crazy Ex-Girlfriend was called "Heavy Boobs," a body type generally not well accommodated in red carpet fashion.

Octavia Spencer made a star out of under-the-radar designer Tadashi Shoji, choosing him to dress her when she was on an awards sweep for her performance in "The Help," choosing him specifically because he was one of the few designers at the time to work with all body types as a regular practice. This season, she chose a tailored suit by Laura Basci, leading the pack for one of the best trends of the 2017 Globes. A constructed suit is hard to pull off when your body has a lot of curves, she slew it.

Wonder Woman Gal Gadot was flaunted a baby bump in a slinky sequined gown from Thierry Mugler that highlighted her maternal curves perfectly. Gwendoline Christie's 6'3" frame (not including heels) make it a challenge for many designers but Vivienne Westwood's team created a beautiful, soft georgette gown that made her look like a classic Hollywood pinup.

Award winner Tracy Ellis Ross has a strong pear-shaped silhouette that was illustrated with stunning beading on a semi-sheer column from Zuhair Murad. While most designers love to dress a stick figure, many others appreciated the Murad-clad, 44-year-old Ross from every angle tonight.

First-time Globes nominee Chrissie Metz wore an elegant velvet dress with an intricately beaded waist cinch by Nathan Paul. If she didn't choose this gown, Christian Siriano had also made two others for her as alternatives. While the fashion industry needs to progress a lot further, I am glad to hear that multiple designers worked hard to give a first-time nominee so many choices.

Seeing how the fortunes of a fashion label can turn by dressing the right celebrity, I hope the diverse silhouettes of the Golden Globes Red Carpet are a start of what is to come. A designer who can excel at dressing beyond sample size is in-demand and in vogue.

Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

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5 NYFW Designers Who Cast Real People for Spring 2017

In recent years, NY Fashion Week runways have slowly begun to become more diverse. But, while some designers are featuring a mix of ethnicities, it is still rare that catwalks will include a range of ages. Even fewer are showcasing models in different shapes or sizes. However, Spring 2017 runways revealed the beginning of a shift in attitude. Several designers made a point to feature models with realistic bodies that actually reflect their customers.

Byron Lars recent hosted a conversation on body diversity with top influencers in full figured fashion, His NYFW presentation featured both Fall 2016 (ready to buy) and Spring 2017 styles. He showed his collection from sizes 0 to 22. He spent months collaborating with patternmakers, technical designers, plus sized fit models and fans to ensure ALL of his fans could enjoy his impeccable fit and construction.

Images from stylishcurves.com

Project Runway champion Christian Siriano made headlines this past summer when he came to the rescue of Ghostbusters star Leslie Jones. The SNL cast member lamented that she could not find a designer to dress her atypical (by Hollywood standards) figure. Siriano stepped in and styled her for the movie premiere. He continued his message of celebrating all sizes by including models of different shapes in his Spring 2017 runway. Project Runway mentor Tim Gunn has also been on a mission to take the fashion industry to task for not acknowledging the reality of their customer base.

photo by Catwalking/Getty

J. Crew cast their Spring 2017 with their own employees. Who would best represent their collection than the people who worked on it all year? The showcased a wide sampling of people who work for the company, even including bios at the show of each person. It was a wonderful way to pay tribute to the faces, experience and diverse bodies behind the brand.

images from nymag.com

The Chromat runway showed pear-shaped models, muscular Olympic medalists, top-heavy, hourglass figures. The functional and high-fashion collection demonstrated that all body types could look fantastic enjoying fitness. The swimwear dominant collection had pieces that were on-trend with graphic athleisure looks. Designer Becca McCharen-Tran wanted customers to be equally comfortable at the gym and the club. 

image from metro.us

Did you love Archie's comics as a kid? I did, but always thought the depiction of Betty and Veronica's fights over a boy were problematic. The real heroines of those comics were paid tribute to in Rachel Antonoff's Spring 2017 collection. Models of varied sizes modeled whimsical looks inspired both the characters styles and featuring artwork featuring the iconic ladies. 

So does seeing models who reflect real people make you more likely to buy from NYFW designers? As a shopper, I am more confident in buying something with less guess work on how it will look on me if I see the garment on someone that looks like me. Is casting real people a trend? Or a tiny step in how fashion week needs to modernize itself?

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#NYFW: Byron Lars Inclusive Sizing Runway

The best trend out of Spring 2017 so far, Byron Lars flaunted most prominently. Several fashion designers have shown models beyond the typical "runway model" shape and proportion to reflect the diversity of their customer better. Lars referred to his new season, both ready-to-buy fall 2016 and spring 2017 as "inclusive" sizing.

His fans demanded his beautiful work to fit a larger range of customers. He took it to heart and researched what the plus sized market was doing wrong that so much full-figured were frustrated. I am happy to say I worked on this collection with Byron. From experience, I knew that most brands that even bother to produce clothing are larger sizes are simply sizing up. Lars spent months casting full-figured models, working with fashion fans, patternmakers and clothing construction to offer customers of ALL sizes the same impeccable fit and finish he is known for.

To be honest, some of the beautifully gathered and shaped dresses looked better on models of larger sizes and curves than models of the smaller size range. That shows what good design can do for a figure. Others flattered the athletic runner's body, as was demonstrated by Olympic medalist Kristi Castlin.

The clothes themselves, his famous sheath dresses are the standout. If you take the time to look closely at each dress, you will find an amazing amount of detail. There might be laser cut chiffon layered on top of print or mesh. There could be jewels, wood or metal embroidery around the neck. Brocade could be pieces with lace in body framing seams. You could be wrapped in impossibly twisted vegan suede so soft you want to sleep in it.

The front row wasn't so much about celebrities as it was a reunion of longtime fashion colleagues. I loved seeing legendary icon Fern Mallis, designer Tracy Reese, and Byron Lars getting silly after hugging it out on the red carpet. 

Congratulations Byron Lars on both Fall 2016 (grab it before it sells out) and the Spring 2017 collection. Inclusive sizing in fashion is what we all need.

All photos by Mariana Leung

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Byron Lars Spring 2016

Designer Byron Lars took a different approach for his spring 2016 fashion presentation. Instead an impersonal runway show, he opted for a very intimate gathering with select bloggers to share his collection. 

Proving his clothes look great on ALL women, his small squad of models included women of different sizes, ethnicities, and ages. The fans who were wearing his work in attendance also represented the above.

Media figure Teri Agins and author of Hijacking the Runway hosted a conversation with Byron Lars to discuss his inspiration behind spring 2016. This season it was a mix of textures that included power mesh, laser cut fringe, lace, ultra suede and brocade. Silhouettes had its roots in classic Haute Couture like Dior's New Look. Unique details included stamped brass insects and birds. Agins pointed out the interior details of Byron Lars pieces that most people don't see, like horsehair lining the hems to create a flared shape, built up collars or surprise linings that are removable. Those details are often my favorite part of his clothing. I swear some of Byron Lars dresses practically stand up on their own.

3D printed details, laser-cut fringe

I helped work on the introduction of his newest details. These were space age inspired silicone appliques (I think he wished I hadn't after the first few rounds). They were a labor of love that ranged from 3D rendering, printing, molds and many other steps. In the end, the result looked fantastic.

There were cheers when he announced he was launching the plus size division of his label. Full figured model Liris Crosse modeled a stunning white sheath with lace and sequin embroidery. She explained that she loved the dress because of all the internal structure to support her curves. She appreciated the design because it was very rare to see dresses for the plus sized fashion range created with so many details and thought (we all know the shapeless tunics other brands produce). Lars had always wanted to extend his size range (it currently goes to size 12) to serve more of his fans. He admitted he took it to heart when he put out a social media post as a fan of Jill Scott and someone responded that if he was a fan, why wouldn't he make clothes that would fit someone like her?

He is committing himself to really perfecting the fit and consulting with women in the size range to put out something worthy of the full figured customer. Byron Lars understands that you can't just size up a smaller size to serve the curves, so he will be developing his pieces specifically for this size range, fit with plus sized models.

If you are looking for truly special fashion pieces for spring 2016 you can collect, I can't think of better work than that of designer Byron Lars. 

Photos by Mariana Leung

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#NYFW: Gypsy Sport Spring 2016

This was not the biggest name on the NYFW schedule, but this was a show I was not going to miss. Based on their menswear presentation, I knew Gypsy Sport was going to be a spectacular display of fashion/performance art.

This fashion show wins the award for the most diverse model cast by far. The fashion show opened with a pregnant albino model. The rest of the cast included models of all ethnicities. Bringing new meaning to street style, these models were literally scouted from the street. There were different shapes, sizes, blurred genders.

Much like the models themselves, this collection was about art, street life and a love of New York City. The clothing itself was mix of prints, stripes, and Gypsy Sport logos. Lacing details merging into fringe was a prominent detail all over the pieces for both men and women. Swing shapes and ruffles were details that also adorned mens' and women's looks that the models flaunted with dancing and dramatic poses.

Models were styled with deliberately smeared makeup. It was an intentional look to reject perfection. Some of the old school photographers didn't quite get it. They were trying to figure out what stores were carrying the clothes. It wasn't about that. Gypsy Sport Spring 2016, like most fashion shows, you need to see past the styling. They styling is the art. the clothes and your models just some of the mediums in which you work.

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Small Business Saturday - Awesome Indie Fashion

Were you disappointed with crass Black Friday shopping? Now refresh yourself with independent style for Small Business Saturday. That's right, explore local talent, indie fashion labels. Show your true style sense by wearing something that everyone one else on the planet didn't get on sale, shop at a boutique that only celebs in the know would keep secret. Here are a few of my favorite designers whom I know personally, so I can vouch for their talent and cred...

Stephanie Chen I knew from Parsons School of Design. She spent some time designing for Ralph Lauren. She now produces an exquisite lingerie and swimwear collection, Sapphire Bliss. Her line is truly local, made in New York.

Alice Cheng's boutique A Cheng in Brooklyn has been a favorite of the stylish Park Slope set for years. She carries her own line of effortless chic clothing and accessories. The shop also offers other carefully curated designers as well as jewelry and fragrance for fashionable gift giving. Alice is another of my Parsons alum.

Valerie Thompson is a knitwear maven for some of the biggest brands in the industry. I worked with her over a decade ago and she was always creating beautiful things. She saw a huge hole in the market for full figured, stylish designer clothing, made and fit for that market, designed by someone who actually wears it. There is a huge demand for this with the dollars behind it, but still, large corporate entities still seem to ignore this. Her venture, Cushie B. fulfills this much-needed niche.

Minji Kim was ruling the indie style set in the East Village and now Nolita with her Min-K boutique almost straight out of college. She creates her own collection of downtown chic and finds the most unique women's and children's wear discoveries that no one carries. In addition to her boutique, she is the costume designer behind stylish films like the upcoming Stealing Chanel.

Ready to shop small? There are also celebrations around each city spotlighting the best businesses in each neighborhood. Discover the best style in your own backyard for Small Business Saturday.

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VAWK Spring 2013

Homegrown designer Sunny Fong was born and raised in Toronto and attended the city's Ryerson University fashion program.  He showed an accessible, sexy collection for all body and age types at World MasterCard Fashion Week in Toronto.

There are more and more sportswear labels that cater to plus sized customers, but I rarely see them acknowledged next to their mainstream high fashion counterparts on the runway.  It was great to see the flattering, sexy outfits were given the same attention to models at different ends of the age and body shape spectrum.  There were of course the "editorial" looks of super short dramatic outfits that most magazines run.  Then there were the well tailored, on-trend, dresses in black, purple, red, white, that 99% of real women love.

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TORONTO FASHION WEEK: Allistyle spring 2013

photos by Hing Ching Leung

Once in a while, a fashion show comes along that reminds you of the humanity of this industry.  The AlliStyle show at World Mastercard Fashion Week showed a collection of affordable, stylish options for women of all sizes and ages, surprisingly on models of all sizes and ages.

The regrettable part of this is that it was shocking.  The great part of it was the enthusiasm and standing ovation from the audience.  AlliStyle was a mission from mother and daughter Pam Shainhouse and daughter Alli Shapiro.  Alli’s weight fluctuated quite a bit due to her struggle with Hodgkin’s Lymphoma.  Instead of shopping as a fun activity that made you feel good, the act of purchasing fashion for herself was so frustrating that if often left her in tears.

Alli passed away in 2006.  Her mother vowed to continue the mission in creating a quality, stylish collection that could be worn year round, used eco-friendly fabrics and produced in their home country of Canada.  The label recently signed Whitney Thompson, the full figured diva contestant of tv’s America’s Next Top Model as their spokesperson and creative director.

While the company advocates travel friendly clothes with comfort, they do not advocate shapeless looks.  This was evident in the buxom, sexy blondes on the runway in the spirit of Mae West.

Even more moving is that the net proceeds from the clothing sales benefit their non-profit, Alli’s Journey.  The organization provides comfort bags and comfort rooms in hospitals to support young adults with cancer.

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