NYFW: NOBIS Spring 2023

 
Canadian winters are cold, trust me, I lived through several decades of them. Canadian outerwear designers are particularly good at creating stylish pieces for the chill because they spend so much time outside and like to look good.

The NOBIS collection strikes a great balance between chic and practicality so the fashion-conscious dude can always look good without worrying about salt and ice. 

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#NYFWM Grungy Gentlemen Fall 2019

Grungy Gentlemen is still all about the six stripes for Fall 2019. I find this menswear collection kind of brilliant. It is not because it is radically fashion forward or luxurious. It is because of young designer Jace Lipstein runs the collection like a textbook marketing exercise. His signature six stripes are presented in every location, print, applique, what have you so that it looks fresh on every look for detail so simplistic. The stripes look sporty, so it appeals to many of his celebrity athlete following, also earning him licenses for major sports teams right from the start.

I remember when I studied intellectual property in law class, there was a classic case study of how you cannot use 2 or 4 stripes in your designs or Adidas will sue your ass, but 5 stripes were ok. It looks like Lipstein was also savvy to this case and added one more stripe.

The name Grungy Gentlemen is the ideal, trendy, contrasting name to pair two sides of appealing personas. Casual but refined, rustic but cosmopolitan, rough, but elegant. Any word except hipster right? The model casting also reflects the image. Models of all heights, body shapes, ages and ethnicities graced the runway, (hosted by nightclub pool hall Slate NY). The majority of models had very current beards. I am not cool enough to know who all of the athletes and music celebs were in attendance or modeling, but hello there rapper Dave East and NFL player Jesse Palmer. I will observe that they all looked good and made the Grungy Gentlemen look their own.

You could call this a street style brand, but the jackets, sweaters and overall styling take that up a notch. You could call this a great lesson in how to execute a modern menswear label, for those who want to be schooled. The Grungy Gentlemen here know how to strut.

Photos by Mariana Leung

Links à la Mode by Independent Fashion Bloggers

• 5 Tips to Survive the Mid Winter Nothing to Wear Syndrome by FunkyForty
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• One Simple Method to Declutter Your Closet for Good by Life with Mar

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African Fashion Week Toronto

I had the privilege of starting Fashion Month off by attending African Fashion Week Toronto. This was a gorgeous collection of student designers, high fashion, and bridal designers brought together in Canada from a mutual muse of African style. I appreciated the diversity of body types on these runways and how this event celebrates diversity with a focused fashion market.

The NYKWALE label was one of the student designers who debuted on this runway. Designer Eugenie Amegah-Wovoe had incredibly vibrant colors and textures collaged into patterns that hinted at traditional African garb, but with a thoroughly modern look. I liked how flattering they were to all body shapes. She mixed print, fringe, patent leather, embroidery to create a sexy collection soon to be a hit with for her fans.

Phresh Empire was another student designer winner. He used traditional African fabrics in modern streetwear inspired silhouettes for men and sweet dress silhouettes for women. I loved the styling of the hair, which were works of art unto themselves, created by Sandy W.

Andrea's Dresses designer Andrea Smart got the fashion bug as young as age 12 in her home country of Trinidad and Tobago. She works African colors and patterns into a diverse collection that ranges from casual items like t-shirt dresses to full formal gowns. She used brightly colored African motifs in strategic ways to flatter the body. A body conscious gown with contrast color and pattern for slimming elongated effect. Patterns that are printed in curves then draped to accentuate the actual body curves. Using color to highlight specific parts of the body, then using black as contrast and minimize.

The Zalahari collection was an accessible menswear collection doing modern twists on African motifs. High tech digital prints used bright backgrounds, and African animals in a repeat pattern in a style designer Ezomoh David calls "Afro-contemporary." These fabrics were worked into well-tailored jackets, shirts, and updated Dashikis. I loved how the male models all had the perfect suave attitude as they strutted down the runway in this collection.

So there you have it, a few of my favorite collections from African Fashion Week Toronto. A vibrant showcase of designer talent with a cultural muse from the other side of the world. I can only see this event growing in attendance and customers once word gets out. Torontonians and fashion fans are missing out.

Photos by Mariana Leung and David Leung

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#NYFWM: Joseph Abboud Fall 2018

I LOVE starting my New York Fashion Week with dapper, dashing leading men. Joseph Abboud brought us back to classic Hollywood style for his fall 2018 collection. Handsome gentlemen were dressed in tailoring that brought back the elegant style of silver screen idols.
Rich tweeds, herringbones, tapestry, pinstripes were displayed in a pared-down palette of charcoal grey, pale grey, burgundy, and black. Double-breasted jackets and waistcoats were given updates cuts and style lines while jacket collars framed the model's faces to flatter a perfect headshot.
The bespoke, custom luxury look here comes from the brand's new studio in Bedford to present high quality, artisan American made clothing. They also partnered with a heritage shoemaker, Allen Edmonds based out of Wisconsin.
The fashion show itself provided the Old Hollywood set. A lovely band played vintage hits. Guests were seated at tiny cocktail tables amid big palm fronds while they sipped champagne at the historic Wolcott Hotel.
The guys shooting this show around me were just as impressed as I was in drooling over this collection. Joseph Abboud is how I fantasize my men would dress. Amid all of the streetwear that became the norm in recent seasons, it was a real treat to see this level of artisan luxury. Can't wait to (realistically, sample sale) shop this Joseph Abboud Fall 2018 collection.

All photos by Mariana Leung

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#NYFWM: Christopher Lowman Spring 2018- Harvard Punk'd

Who's in for scholarly chic? Indie designer Christopher Lowman styled his Spring 2018 collection along with a collegiate theme. While the academic-inspired look is a hot trend, there was something darker and in tune with current times. 

There were team jackets and sweaters. Cropped pants were paired with New Balance Athletic shoes. Intellectual glasses were by Vivid Eyewear. The "nerd" specs are a particular weakness of mine when guys wear them. Fabric choices included leather to French terry, silk to suede. Raglan sleeves and denim all gave a look of an intense student who was also plotting a rebellion. The intensity of emotion of Lowman's muse. Specifically, that student who was battling anxiety of financial instability and mental health issues that lead to the possibility of becoming a college dropout. I thought it was an accurate snapshot of how the country worries about in general right now. Anxiety of money, health and failure is on the minds of many.

This was my first show of New York Fashion Week Menswear #NYFWM for this season. I wondered if the vibe this show created would be in tune with other collections to come. Fall 2017, the theme of protest was prevalent. Will Spring 2017 be the season of fear or anxiety? Christopher Lowman found his therapy in his clothes. 

Photos by Mariana Leung.

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#NYFWM: Rochambeau Fall 2017 Anarchy

One of the biggest trends of NYFWM fall 2017 was one of resistance. From protest signs to more subtle messages of inclusion; designers were making statements across all of their collections. This season, Rochambeau designers Joshua Copper and Laurence Chandler dug deep into the punk scene of the 1980s for their muse. 

The duo first looked to the imagery of Henry Rollins' Hot Animal Machine album. They tracked down the man behind the cover who turned out to be DEVO's Mark Mothersbaugh to collaborate. Other influences included the acts of other subversive performers, like Tupac Shakur's performance in Bishop and the booking of the band FEAR on Saturday Night Live due to John Belushi insistence. 

The runway show opened with disturbed dancers in masks, jumpsuits and dripped paint styled on their head. They continued to set the mood of anarchy throughout the presentation. 

The clothing features Peruvian knits, protest messages, oversized graphics and embroideries. The designers also added lots of hidden details that could only be appreciated when the clothing is examined up close. The models were also styled in dripped paint, but also fishnet masks, safety pinned anarchy notes and combat boots. 

Rochambeau Fall 2017 continues to keep ahead of the menswear game. Their anti-establishment message serves to make all of NYFWM their rabid fans. Welcome to Anarchy in the USA.

photos by Mariana Leung

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#NYFWM: Maiden Noir, Robert James, Private Policy

Dune Studios hosted a group presentation of menswear designers under NYMD at the southern end of Manhattan yesterday. Maiden Noir, Robert James, and Private Policy stood out for me.

Designer Nin Truong takes inspiration from his Northwestern surroundings and architecture for his collection. For Fall 2017, he cites the lesser-known photographs of Cy Twombly as his muse. The soft, warm colours of his images are reflected in the colour palette of the Maiden Noir collection. Truong chose to combine wool fabrics with typewriter cloth shirting, velvets, and satins for the season. The overall effect was a luxurious, but relaxed, urban look. It was the professional, but an artsy guy.

Robert James had a fantastic, edgy rock n' roll vibe to his show last season. This season, he responded to the political climate by combining protest and fashion. His models carried protest signs addressing women's rights, immigrant rights, Black Lives Matter and the many other issues under attack with the current president.

Styled with army surplus boots, the clothes certainly had a military feel. There were updated camouflage prints. Dark olive green, khaki, and black dominated the colour palette. By covering many of their faces, they styling served to draw attention back to the clothes, but also to focus on the protest messages as a collective idea, not individual models.

photos by Mariana Leung

Private Policy's collection was anything but restrained. Their fall 2017 them was "Polycephaly" the condition of having multiple heads. The interpretation of this is the influence of multiple styles collaged together to create a look. This could be a look that combines unusual combinations of fabrics like heavy denim and velvet to a suit that combined the flags of many nations to represent global collaboration. The designers also like to add details like beading, fringe and fur that are traditionally found in women's clothing. They like to blur boundaries, making their collection accessible to everyone, inspired by their personal friends. Their muses often include the creative, the rebellious people whom they are surrounded by in lower Manhattan. Polycephaly also referred

So there you have it. Three of menswear's up-and-coming labels Maiden Noir, Robert James and Private Policy have forged their way into the industry with a unique vision. Two of them have used their fashion presentation to make a point of making a statement on society beyond the clothes of #NYFWM. Has today's political climate has changed fashion designers into taking a stand? That is a direction I hope lives beyond a trend.

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#NYFWM: Steven Aoki Dim Mak Collection Fall 2017

It seems stiff when streetwear and activewear brands send models down a sombre runway. Music industry superstar Steve Aoki's fashion brand Dim Mak destroyed that convention by replacing the catwalk with a skate park.

Dim Mak is a luxury streetwear brand celebrating skater culture, rebels and street art. This season, the graphics were a collaboration with artist David Choe. The collection is made and designed in Japan. It has the indie creative's soul at heart with a tagline "by any means necessary".

The clothes were shown on true skaters instead of traditional models who burst out on a half pipe to the searing performances of the band Mangchi. It was great to see the clothing in motion. The art, whether it was printed on the back of a trenchcoat, screened on t-shirts, printed on pants looked great in the air. Instead of the baggy classic fit of skaters, the Dim Mak collection played with the silhouette a bit, making pants more tapered in the leg, looser towards the hips, jackets slim in the shoulders but full towards the hem so it had the effect of a superhero's cape in flight.

I loved the diverse casting of the show, which had skaters from different ethnicities, both male and one female. In general, I find that NYFWM has more diverse ethnicities in its models than the women's shows, which is a shame on women's designers. Menswear seems to take more risks in their presentations based on the first three shows I have shot. NYFW needs to step it up.

Steve Aoki's Dim Mak Fall 2017 fashion show got my heartrate up and I loved it! Thank you for getting the walls of NYFWM shaking at Skylight Clarkson North and giving it some much needed heat. This label is going to ride all over this side of the ocean.

photos by Mariana Leung

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#NYFWM: Nick Graham, Bill Nye, Buzz Aldrin Life on Mars

Be still my nerdy heart. The theme for the Nick Graham Fall 2017 show was a Mission to Mars. The show opened with everyone's favourite TV science teacher Bill Nye making remarks about space and exploration.

Like yesterday's Samuelsohn show, the preferred hair colour was metallic silver, this time to reflect Spaceman styling. Nick Graham is updating Bill Nye's lab coats to designer threads for his upcoming new series. His silvery suit had a print of rocketships. Metallics paid a prominent role throughout the collection in general, which included more silver, grey, black, red and night sky blue.

The suits were cut slim. The varied prints were playful for the young, impish hipster or the eccentric, beloved uncle. If you are more conservative in your style, you can pick and choose your pieces from this collection. You don't have to wear head-to-toe shine and patterns. Feel free to bring a bright jacket in to add a pop of colour or have a collar of rocketships peek out from your solid black suit.

The theme of Life on Mars might be an escapist idea from the turmoil of our world right now. However, I did geek out at the special guest star model of Buzz Aldrin on the runway. One of the first men on the moon, this was not his first trip to the planet of high fashion. I met him years ago at Louis Vuitton's 40th Anniversary celebration of the lunar landing. The difference is the stars in his eyes are real ones.

Nick Graham is a whiz at graphics and prints that make your wardrobe fun. When he picks a theme, his casting is perfection. On this cold, snowy day, the mission to Mars and the most qualified men to take me there absolutely made me smile.

photos by Mariana Leung

Also on Ms. Fabulous:
Mermaids at London Fashion Week
What Happens When You Check Into Motel No. 7

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#NYFWM: Samuelsohn Fall 2017

The award for the chilliest runway at NYFW Menswear was the Samuelsohn's Fall 2017 show. What better way to showcase the performance and warmth of the brand's cashmere and luxury fabrics than seeing it move on ice?

Samuelsohn is a heritage brand making tailored luxury menswear since 1923. The main color palettes of autumn/winter 2017 were silver, ice blue, and wine. The luxe wools and hues were inspired by ice-capped Monte Bianco. The cooler colors representing the lakes and ice with the garnet colors the foliage in fall. The company strives to make sure their materials are non-toxic and eco-friendly. The quality of the wool was well showcased in herringbone, ombre, plaid, flannel and chenille.

Aside from the sartorial merits of this presentation, I found it downright sexy. Maybe it has to do with my Canadian upbringing, but a bunch of male models skating on ice in well-cut suits fulfilled a fantasy I didn't even know I had. The models were styled in metallic silver hair like a really hot Jack Frost. Canada's studly skater Eric Radford spun and leaped into the air and into the dreams of the guests at the show.

The ice rink at the Standard Hotel near the Highline hosted the show. Gingerbread cookies were served up with hot toddy drinks and hot cocoa stuffed with homemade marshmallows.

New York Menswear Week started with a cold day, but the Samuelsohn Fall 2017 collection brought the heat. I am surprised that the ice rink even stayed intact. More designers need to employ skaters! Guys, please take note.

Photos by Mariana Leung

Also on Ms. Fabulous:

Robert James Rock n' Roll Style

Jedi Chic: Greg Lauren Menswear

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#NYFWM: Parke and Ronen Spring 2017

Here are a bunch of cute boys in swimwear! Parke and Ronen's spring 2017 collection was all about collegiate athletics. The clothing had a lot of upgraded varsity graphics like letter jackets and sweaters. Whimsical motifs accompanied some of the logos. Sport stripes were prominent in the ready to wear separates and swimwear.

While there were a few board short styles, most of the looks were short and TIGHT! Better get in shape guys.

The two designers Parke Lutter and Ronen Jehezkel met two decades ago as recent fashion school graduates. They partnered up to build their innovative menswear brand and also in life. Their spontaneous moment of celebration during their finale was adorable.

That has got to be one of the best trends in fashion this past year. Many of the creative couples I know got married in the last two years. How wonderful is it to collaborate in life and in love? Parke and Ronen's spring 2017 collection makes it all look good.

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NYFWM: Nick Graham Spring 2017

Woo hoo! More partying in Cuba! Men's underwear guru Nick Graham took us away from the tobacco fields and back to the 1950s when Havana was a global playground for everyone from mobsters to royalty. For the Nick Graham Spring 2017 show, the venue was filled with tropical foliage while samba dancers kept it festive.

Warm weather suits in seersucker, madras fabrics and linen were the standouts of the collection. Vibrant florals and tropical prints were a nod to the famous Tropicana club of Cuba. The hints of military camouflage patterns were an acknowledge of the revolution that was brewing during this time period.

The music had models and guests dancing. I loved the International spirit and "getaway" theme of the show. There was an enthusiastic announcer introducing each model and their nationality when he was about to strut down the runway. Ushers were dressed as airline stewardesses and the programs were designed to look like a plane ticket. As with most menswear shows, there were female models wearing the tailored looks as well. With Nick Graham, the cross-dressing aspect was given a cheeky acknowledgment with the model sporting a dramatic mustache.

As a Canadian passport holder, I'm not sure what has kept me from visiting Cuba all this time. Nick Graham Spring 2017 certainly found inspiration there, Maybe I will too.

photos by Mariana Leung

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NYFWM: Carlos Campos Spring 2017

The spirit of Havana was another theme I saw running through New York Fashion Week Men's. Carlos Campos was inspired by the Cuban Nomad and created an updated look inspired by uniforms, tobacco fields and art deco.

You can see jumpsuits, shorts, jackets, many accented with extra long belt ties. The color palette stuck close to classic uniform shades like navy, white, khaki and military green. The utilitarian comfort was emphasized by the range of both men and women of different heights wearing the clothes with ease. There were some graphic stripes and abstract graphic print to break up the solid colored pieces. The classic guayabera shirt is transformed by Campos into a tailored "Jacketbera" for spring.

Carlos Campos Spring 2017 was a great collection of clean wearable pieces for the city or traveling abroad.

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NYFWM: Robert James Spring 2017

The rock n' roll continued through Robert James' spring 2017 collection last night. The Ohio designer has commited himself to making classic menswear with a modern twist. The look had a British rocker slant to it with models who looked like a young Mick Jagger. The fit was very slim on the pants and jackets. Animal print and leather gave an edge to tailored pieces. 

The overall presentation format was highly effective. Emerging designers take note. The venue was not big compared to other fashion week locations. Rock band equipment was places throughout to add some ambience. Models posed on either side of the columns and rotated throughout the duration to strut down the center aisle like a runway. This created multiple photo opportunities for any guest. This also worked for a collection of fewer looks than your standard catwalk show. I loved that the models injected their own personality into their turn on the runway. 

Since the collection rotated through over and over again, it allowed for more guests to see the presentation whenever they arrived. The presentation felt intimate in that space and the models relaxed attitude helped that as well. 

The Robert James collection is a great label to follow for gents looking for a good wardrobe of fashion forward classics to live by.

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NYFWM: Artistix Spring 2017

Day one of New York Fashion Week Men's featured the rock n' roll guys. Artist Greg Polisseni and fashion director Andy Hilfiger debuted their spring 2017 for Artistix collection with the theme of "Equality" yesterday. It was a great mix of rock n' roll with a black and white palette. The signature print was inspired by Polisseni's paint splatter style artwork. The black and white are a balance of equality, but also easy to wear for anyone.

The top floor had a lot of leather and denim with moto styling. Downstairs had more of a grotto nightclub feel. Models danced in their underwear offering plenty of eye candy for those of us who appreciated it. 

The Hilfiger family (Tommy, Andy, et al. ) know how to bring the rockers in. I walked into this presentation with legendary rock n' roll photographer Mick Rock, which instantly gave this collection some credibility just with his presence. Let's hope Artistix keeps the party going all night long.

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NYFW Menswear: General Idea Fall 2016

Rugged and crafted. Korean designer Choi Bum Suk presented a tightly edited collection at New York Fashion Week Men's. The General Idea collection had a color palette of navy, camel, brown with black and white. The most notable features, however, were the oversized details. Zippers, eyelets and pockets were exaggerated in size.

The overall look was urban cowboy. The rustic edge to the collection was not meant for actually roughing it anywhere with real dirt or outdoor work. It was more of an attitude, like a Western set in the middle of Downtown Seoul. The styling of each piece was well thought out. From the multiple textures of the trims, (leather, or vinyl, or wool contrasted with other fabrics or colors) to the overall drape and layering of the pieces to form the entire outfit.

Accessories were a major part of this runway. There were chokers and hats. The sunglasses had a unique octagon shape. The bags offered great alternatives to the typical men's offerings. An over-sized flat envelope bag acted as a funky alternative to a briefcase. A top-handled bulky flap backpack with giant eyelets was a good option for a carry-all. Thick soled shoes with a rich, gradient polish in the deep navy hues of the clothing looked great with the outfits.

I don't quite have a sense of who the General Idea customer is yet. I do know that I like what I see as a whole from this label. It's tough to be a lone wolf designer in this field of fashion. I wish Choi Bum Suk the best of luck.

photos courtesy of the designer

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Jedi Chic: Greg Lauren Spring 2016

Are you already lined up for the Star Wars Force Awakens opening? Greg Lauren's upcoming spring 2016 collection looked like it was designed for the new Jedi warriors. The look was rugged, post-apocolyptic yet elegant in its own way.

The nephew of Ralph Lauren, Greg was first known as an actor (Boogie Nights, Batman Begins) and artist. His artistic work has a certain romantic, decimated earth look to it that translates into his fashion collection. If the Mad Max Fury Road crew and the Hunger Games coal miners had a designer boutique, this label would fit right in.

While the runway looks may look a bit theatrical, the individual garments are very wearable. They have a comfortable, upscale linen look to them. A mix of European relaxed elegance and American swagger. The fabrics have multiple dyed and faded treatements to them. The silhouettes may look loose and casual, but they actually hang on the body with a deceptively tailored fit.

photos by Mariana Leung

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Gypsy Sport Spring 2016

What a cheeky fashion show from streetwear brand Gypsy Sport. This was one of the most anticipated presentations of NY Fashion Week Men's. Designer Rio Uribe has won design awards and consults with other global brands for his unique perspective on men's style.

His particular expertise is in his headpieces. There were tongue-in-cheek twists on fisherman's hats with net, visors, tribal gear interpreted in candy colors, the list goes on. The avant-garde accessories also continued downward to fringe and net vests.

There were several distinct themes like the baseball pinstripe, quirky pink and pastel and then earthy safari themes. This collection was described as "gender fluid". While one hears the term "androgynous" quite often, gender fluidity seems to be a relatively new trend for people to self-identity.

In the case of Gypsy Sport, this was interpreted by adding details that are traditionally associated with women's' clothing in their men's collection. Think shirring and a ruffle on a top. Loose clothing isn't necessarily hiding something.

The models were clearly directed to enjoy themselves and create a character that suits the collection and mood.. Gypsy Sport is all about showcasing the beauty of diversity and taking them out of their comfort zone.

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Nautica Spring 2016

Thanks for the pecs and eye candy! My former employer Nautica presented their spring 2016 menswear collection yesterday. Creative director Steve McSween wanted to exude a feeling of urban city meets the water.

I thought that summed up what the modern Nautica brand was all about. It's simple, yet somehow the company under VF Corp didn't figure that out for years. I see the sleeker direction the clothing has taken that suits the lifestyle of the city gentleman. Referencing the nautical inspiration and water is more about an attitude and lifestyle you want to project towards your weekend.

While their New York Fashion Week Men's paired their sportswear items like blazers and outerwear with their swimwear, it clearly was not meant to be taken literally. The swimwear had a slimmer, flattering fit. The outerwear had a stylish, easy approach. I found it brave, but effective not to show other categories to flesh out the full collection (like shirts, their classic polo knit, etc.) They showed the two product categories where they excelled. Plus, they clearly realized that everyone already knows what a basic woven shirt and polo looks like. (If they don't, Macy's will hit them over the head with ads by Father's Day.)

While I was sad to see all but three people I knew still at the company to give hugs to, I was happy to hear that the new director was a cool guy. Happy spring 2016 for Nautica.
photos by Mariana Leung

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