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Showing posts with label spring 2016. Show all posts
Showing posts with label spring 2016. Show all posts

Sunday, January 24, 2016

Carmen Marc Valvo Spring 2016


The runway was a parade of Eastern chic for Carmen Marc Valvo's spring 2016 collection. The color palette was a stark black and white with deep red as an accent color. There was a continuous theme of brushstrokes as a motif. It was in painterly prints but also echoed in the embroidery.

The designer used a mix of leather and python paired with delicate soft silks. When combined together into a longer gown, the effect was sexy and edgy on top, flowing into feminine and soft at the bottom. The bodice often had a sporty, sharp cut neckline or shoulder treatment while the skirts were full and sweeping.

When I worked for Carmen Marc Valvo as an intern wayyyy back in my Parsons School of Design days, there was a lot of beading, embellished cocktail dresses and gowns. There were fancy suits that appealed to a mother of the bride. This runway show has shown that his label has branched out into swimwear and menswear with the same level of luxury and design. Men's jackets had the painted prints. The swimsuits carried through the looks of the red carpet gown so you can continue the black tie aesthetic from pool to gala.


The inky prints included abstract brushstrokes to whooping crane paintings that looked like traditional sumi-e art. There were floral patterns in all size scales. They ranged from dainty floating flowers to giant blooms that read more like a painted texture.

For the makeup, however, the stylists opted for exaggerated slanted eye makeup, almost like an Asian cliche. I felt this was tacky and unnecessary to get the theme across. The clothing spoke for itself. The hair was slicked back and simple. The shoes were rather minimal with wide straps around the ankle and front foot.

Carmen Marc Valvo's spring 2016 collection was a pretty one. This is another designer I would love to see more of during awards season. The designers loyal fans would agree. I have met some longtime friends during my short internship at this label. I love a company that produces relationships as much as it does dresses.
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Tuesday, January 19, 2016

Theia Spring 2016

tile print dress
theia ss16

My favorite fashion collections are ones that offer some escapism. THEIA Spring 2016 took you away on a romantic trip to Granada Spain. Specifically, designer Don O'Neill looked to the UNESCO World heritage site of Alhambra.

The palace at Alhambra was once a fortress before being converted into the royal palace in 1333. It is remarkable for the Moorish architecture with Byzantine influences. As you can see from O'Neill's mood board, the palace has stunning architectural details and painted tiles. 

fashion sketches

You can see how the lacy carved stone entrances were interpreted in the embroidered lace gown above in the middle. All of the lovely painted tile patterns are incorporated into the digital prints on satin and chiffon. The rich blue and terra cotta colors along with Spanish sunshine have made their way into the overall color palette.

I am hoping to see more of these gowns on the red carpet of the ongoing awards season. My favorite Golden Globes dress came from THEIA already. I would love to see these patterns and sunny shades as an alternative to many of the predictable looks that celebrities usually wear. THEIA cuts to strategically flatter a woman's body with special details, so you can't go wrong. With THEIA spring 2016, you can be assured that you are surrounded by a palace. 
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Friday, January 15, 2016

Son Jung Wan Spring 2016

pantone rose quartz

Korea's favorite designer Son Jung Wan was inspired by the "Gentle beauty of nature" for her New York Fashion Week show for spring 2016. Specifically, her muse was the gorgeous, volcanic island of Jeju in South Korea.

I couldn't immediately see the connection with the aquatic treasure and nature. The fabrics had pretty pastel and metallic finishes. The cuts were sleek and angled for many of the looks. I soon realized that the asymmetric silhouettes were more of an abstract reference to the volcanic structures on the land. I found some photos of the island that showed the delicate flowers that grow there. There were a few looks where the petal embroidery emulated that:

jeju island

The frosted pink shade and sharp cuts of both the long and short dresses that they were designed for perfectly embodied Pantone's Color of the Year of Rose Quartz. Deeper green and blue hues took their muse from the surrounding island sea and foliage.

While most of Son Jung Wan's fan base is in Korea, she is quickly gaining some famous fans Stateside. The star model of the runway was Ireland Baldwin while Gossip Girl's Kelly Rutherford ran up to give the designer a supportive hug in the finale.

I love how Son Jung Wan's collection always looks sophisticated and feminine without being girly. She can bring in the pastels and embellishments but executes them in a mature way so that grown-ups actually want to wear them. I don't know why that's such a surprise, I think I have had too many bad shopping trips in Asia where high-pitched salesgirls try to bombard me with too frilly bows and pink. Spring 2016 is for the lady, not the baby.

son jung wan fashion show
photos by Mariana Leung

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Monday, December 21, 2015

Angel Sanchez Spring 2016

angel sanchez spring 2016
angel sanchez ss16

Looking for some tropical inspiration for your winter getaway? Angel Sanchez designed his spring 2016 collection around the Carribean 'Cayega'. We know it as the hibiscus flower. His runway for NY Fashion Week was blooming all over with them.

Sanchez took the vibrant hues of fuschia, orange and citrus yellow silk and paired them with grassy greens and neutrals of black and white. The motif of the hibiscus flower was played out in within the collection in every way you can imagine. The one print was of a beautiful painted red hibiscus against a white background. There were dresses that where draped like a flower in literal or more abstract shapes,

flower appliques

There were floral fabric, leather or acrylic appliques for a more contemporary interpretation. You can always wear the elegant black ensembles. The white outfits make great modern bridal looks, especially for a beach wedding. However, the ultra-vivid ballgowns? That's how your make an entrance! Accessories included big floral applique mules that look great in a contrast hue.

Angel Sanchez has never been afraid of color. I also love how he mixes traditional evening wear dressing with super-contemporary details to keep his collection fresh. The fashion show attracted everyone from The Walking Dead's Mercedes Masohn to opera singer Renee Fleming. If this runway doesn't inspire you to take a vacation, you deserve to stay home.

designer angel sanchez
photos by Mariana Leung
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Monday, September 14, 2015

#NYFW: Zang Toi in Santorini Spring 2016


What is the most beautiful place on Earth? Designer Zang Toi and I clearly agree. His Spring 2016 collection was inspired by the Greek island of Santorini.  When I visited the island, I was struck by the blue and white of the architecture being lit by spectacular sunsets.

Zang Toi translated that feeling in the vibrant shades of blue, aqua, white and green in his clothing. He had many of his elegant long silhouettes and capes. In chatting with him backstage, he deliberately stayed away from the cliche "goddess" dresses, togas and gladiator sandals associated with a "Grecian" inspired collection. Instead, he paid tribute to the breezy climate with the feather-light tulle gowns that rippled as the models walked.


Some of the print and embroidery motifs used were a nod to the crochet handicrafts of the island as well as its pottery arts. I love that Zang manages to take his fans away on an exotic escape each season. His daywear looks were accessorized with dramatic hats to strike an image (or protect you from the sun). The shoes of choice were a beaded heels with clear straps, like a post-modern update of the ancient Greek sandal.

While Zang Toi has an entire entourage of Real Housewives devoted to him, the real star in the audience was the legendary Patti Labelle. She was so excited to see him that she leapt up at the finale and practically snatched him off the runway. Very cute. (Even more adorable was the report that she accidentally dropped a tic-tac on the runway and panicked that it would disrupt the show).

Bravo on another beautiful journey Zang Toi!
all photos by Mariana Leung

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Saturday, September 12, 2015

#NYFW: Nicholas K. Spring 2016



Imperor Furiosa has landed on the NY Fashion Week runway. The Nicholas K. collection had a post-apocalyptic look to it that evoked the Mad Max Fury Road aesthetic. The faded, dark and dip dyed outfits gave the air of a warrior who has survived tough times stylishly.

The theme from the designer had a parachute inspiration. There were a lot of rip-stop nylon fabrics, distressed leather and washed silk. The generously draped long ponchos and exaggerated hoods seemed like they were meant to weather a desert storm. There were tough harnesses and ropes worn as a necklace/escape tool. Some of the handbags doubled as gun holsters or bullet pouches.

Unlike other designers, Nicholas Kunz is not afraid to show dark, muted colors for spring and summer. Not everyone wants pastels. The styled outfits as shown on the runway may look beaten up, but up close and in movement. the asymmetrical drape and flow of the garments looked quite luxurious.

If the end of the world is near, we can only hope to look as chic in the rubble as the Nicholas K Spring 2016 collection.
photos by Mariana Leung
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Thursday, September 10, 2015

#NYFW Daniel Silverstain Spring 2016

Cann you design a collection that is both retro and futuristic? Daniel Silverstain' spring 2016 collection at New York Fashion Week showed that you can. His inspiration was Montreal ' s Expo 67, a landmark World's fair that displayed optimistic and innovation for the future.

The designer interpreted that with the Olympic primary colors paired with lots of white and space age silver. The metallic looks, avant-garde silhouettes were a reference to the futuristic 1960s architecture of the city. The prints are a nod to the tile work and graphics of the era. If you have never visited Montreal, you should definitely check out some it's prominent buildings and even the big casino!

Daniel Silverstain ' s collection was fun, hopeful and ready for spring.

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Thursday, July 16, 2015

Nautica Spring 2016

nyfwm nautica


Thanks for the pecs and eye candy! My former employer Nautica presented their spring 2016 menswear collection yesterday. Creative director Steve McSween wanted to exude a feeling of urban city meets the water.

I thought that summed up what the modern Nautica brand was all about. It's simple, yet somehow the company under VF Corp didn't figure that out for years. I see the sleeker direction the clothing has taken that suits the lifestyle of the city gentleman. Referencing the nautical inspiration and water is more about an attitude and lifestyle you want to project towards your weekend.

While their New York Fashion Week Men's paired their sportswear items like blazers and outerwear with their swimwear, it clearly was not meant to be taken literally. The swimwear had a slimmer, flattering fit. The outerwear had a stylish, easy approach. I found it brave, but effective not to show other categories to flesh out the full collection (like shirts, their classic polo knit, etc.) They showed the two product categories where they excelled. Plus, they clearly realized that everyone already knows what a basic woven shirt and polo looks like. (If they don't, Macy's will hit them over the head with ads by Father's Day.)

While I was sad to see all but three people I knew still at the company to give hugs to, I was happy to hear that the new director was a cool guy. Happy spring 2016 for Nautica.
photos by Mariana Leung
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