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Tuesday, August 30, 2016

BCBG Max Azria Fall 2016

So many of the Fall 2016 shows paid tribute to David Bowie. BCBG Max Azria not only used his music in the soundtrack, the collection reflected his performer's spirit in subtle style.

The layered textures and knits don't necessarily scream "Bowie". Underneath the outerwear, there are leotards, leggings, the skintight body conscious looks that the music and fashion icon turned to early in his career. There was some lurex sparkle mixed in like stardust and also for texture. The movement-friendly base pieces were also a nod to dancers and 1980s films like Flashdance. The rips in the leggings echoing Alex's ripped sweatshirt. 

I love the layered ensembles that combined multiple shades of complementary colors. Dark navy, eggplant, grays, wood browns transition right into my favorite autumn colors.
 Leather mixed with varigated stripes looked great on the runway. Calf-length, uneven hems, draped and easy was the dominant silhouette for the season.

BCBG handbags and shoes have as many loyal fans as their clothing. Fall 2016 was about chunkier, clunkier footwear, like a contemporary update on 1970s clogs. They finally seem to have moved on from the envelope clutch and have softer, sleeker elongated clutch purses instead. 

BCBG from Max and Lubov Azria is not the most trendsetting label, but they are fashiom forward in a relatable way that makes their customers eager to hit their stores every season (as observed in my friends and colleagues).  Happy shopping!

Friday, August 26, 2016

Cirque Du Soleil - Luzia in Toronto

Enjoying some time in Toronto and I was treated to the beautiful treat that is Cirque Du Soleil's newest production LUZIA. This production was inspired by Mexican Culture. The name Luzia is a combination of the Spanish words for light and rain.

This show opened with the central clown suspended from the top like he had a parachute mishap. He was surrounded by a field of traditional marigold flowers. When he landed, it transformed into a scene with a butterfly dancer with wings that spread out past the width of the stage. She runs while the stage rotates around with a metallic horse puppeteered by several performers behind her. The giant round disk is a constant symbol for many things like the Aztec calendar, sunset, moon or film reel.

Both set designer Eugenio Caballero and costume designer Giovanna Buzzi were careful not to appropriate the culture directly and settle for stereotypes. They changed up the color palettes, from monochrome to super bright. They brought in animal motifs. There was a giant Papel Picado cylinder acting as a patterned veil, playing with the scale of what is usually a delicate paper party decoration. My favorite costume was the diva's dress of white and red flowers. The designers used innovative tech, the almost 100 flowers open and close as she sings, attached to individual little motors. 
The show is the most beautiful performance art of intricate choreography and design. It is merely a bonus that the cast performs feats of physical wonders. There was one contortionist that was so flexible that he left the audience white-knuckled in their seats.
The other major theme and design element was the use of rain and water. The downpour was used for dramatic effect in several acts both for humor and stunning visual effect. With tricks of lighting, it looks like the tent was raining all sorts of symbols and narratives into the stage. There was a tiny pool in the middle in some acts to represent Mexican cenotes. The pool was used to very sexy effect with the long-haired, shirtless aerialist who swung his hair through the water as he dipped and soared through the air.

I have been a fan of Cirque du Soleil for over 20 years. I have attended a different production almost every year as a cherished family outing. Every year I think that yes, it will be gorgeous, but they can't possibly surprise me. Every single year I am wrong. The set design, production, and costumes of LUZIA blew me away and had left me with tons of inspiration.

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Sunday, August 21, 2016

Blogger Love: Uniform Style

What is a uniform? Is a style of dress to identify similar occupations? Are fashion uniforms about dressing for a certain lifestyle? Are they dictated by a higher authority or what you decide for yourself define who you are? This week's bloggers explore all aspects of that, from workplace dressing to what another blogger sticks to for the summer.


Thursday, August 18, 2016

Fairy Tale Fashion: Georgine Fall 2016

Make a wish, hide in the woods. Georgine's Fall 2016 collection was inspired by Grimm's Fairy Tales. It had a fanciful, darker tone with lots of pretty embellishments. This was not the wardrobe of a fairy princess. The silhouettes were slim and body conscious. It was more the seductive villain just making her way through the castle.

There were whimsical embellishments like metallic candy appliques, dark flowers, dragonflies, and birds. Beautiful sequin embroidery embellished a slinky gown fit for an ice queen. Forest green sequins embroidered leaves onto a fur collar ensemble. There was a witty sweater with "Grumpy" across the front as a nod to Snow White's seven dwarves. Silk, fur, knits and glittering accents made the mix of outerwear, sportswear, and eveningwear perfect for a day into night lifestyle.
This is how I like to dress. I love the idea of a sensible sweater with exaggerated shoulders or a trenchcoat with beaded flowers and ribbon belt. I believe velvet and satin should be daywear fabrics. The makeup on the models had a bit of a Gothic edge. Lips were blood red or off-black and purple. Hair was often swept up and knotted high on the head to accentuate high-neck silhouettes. Many of the models wore dark sunglasses for that mysterious air or librarian glasses to pay tribute to the literary roots of fairy tales.

My favorite part of late summer is seeing all of the autumn fashions hit the stores. Georgine Ratelband's fall collection offers a sartorial happy ending for all.

Monday, August 15, 2016

Son Jung Wan Fall 2016

Korean fashion designer Son Jung Wan has described her craft as the act of putting together a puzzle. Her Fall 2016 collection was about combining new shapes and silhouettes and mixing and matching colors and textures.

The puzzle theme is particularly noticeable in the pieced dresses and fur coats. The high contrast black and white palette was shown with a softer, pastel palette of pinks, cream and pale blue. Dresses had an impressive construction of interlocking details or intricate seaming. The most interesting looks were the fur jackets of different weights and textures. The process of combining different minks was created at the Kopenhagen Fur creative center in Copenhagen. Other materials included range from delicate silk crepe de chine to solid leather or lightweight knits.

In addition to checkered patterns, there were thick zig zag styles of fur both as a trim and big fluffy coats. There were a few coordinated menswear looks. Son Jung Wan wanted this collection to be fun. The title was "Playing With Fashion" and I believe she did have fun in designing it.

On this hottest of weekends, I'm not sure looking at so much fur is helping, but when NYC reclaims the winter, I would love to be wearing Son Jung Wan's Fall 2016. Maybe I can sit down, wrapped in one of the big checkered coats and work on the New York Times crossword puzzle. What do you think?
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Wednesday, August 10, 2016

Paris Shopping Guide: Where I Spent My Money

This is my 2016 update of Ms. Fabulous' Paris shopping guide. I was lucky enough to be in the city for the "Soldes" season (sales month). Major shopping chains all over the city were on second markdowns before the fall fashion collections came in. 
However, shopping for clothes as a curvy girl in Paris is not easy. I was frustrated on my first few days of shopping as most of the major French chains catered to flat-chested ladies. Then I discovered Heroines. They love color and they love prints. Their retro silhouettes were more pin-up girl than waif (yay!) Their dresses flattered the hourglass figure. Their designer is based in France and creates the most wonderful witty, quirky prints. The collection is produced in London. I fell in love with this jungle print dress that when you look closely, you'll see a woman who looks a bit like me hiding in the trees.
marche dauphine
If you are interested in antiques or vintage in any way, you must make a trip to the Paris Flea Markets or the Marche Aux Puces St. Ouen. It is a historical flea market that is made up of about 15 markets for different merchandise categories. You'll have to review their website to figure out what you want and the history of it. The one I liked was the Marche Dauphine. Here is where I found Daniel Et Lili. It is a fashion designer's dream. It has a huge selection of vintage trims, buttons, jewelry, glasses, vintage fashion magazines that date as far back as a century old. Stuff you would normally find in a fashion museum. Prices are reasonable. I was on a mission to buy antique millinery irons like the ones found at M&S Schmalberg. After asking every merchant for several blocks, they led me here. I bought two leaf irons. They gave me a price break for buying two. Bring cash! No credit cards.
The concept store has been a big trend in fashionable retail. COS (Collection of Style) has an upscale minimalist designer look. The posh architectural vibe and merchandising has that laid back European chic. You would never think it was a division of H&M. The prices and quality are notably higher. Think of it as the fashion equivalent of what Pret-a-Manger is to McDonald's. It looks like Barney's and Opening Ceremony had a lovechild. Ex-pats have bemoaned the fact that this chain doesn't ship to the U.S. but that has recently changed. I picked up a slinky knit tunic dress and printed cotton jacket dress for the fall.

What are your favorite spots for Paris shopping? Let me know!

More from Ms. Fabulous:
Check out An Insider's Guide to Dining in Paris During Fashion Week
by Ms. Fabulous at Mode
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