Carmen Marc Valvo Spring 2017

What is white and red and black all over? Carmen Marc Valvo's Spring 2017 collection reminded me of a childhood riddle with its streamlined color palette. I interned for the designer wayyyy back in my Parsons days studying fashion design. Back then, it was all about evening wear.

This season, Valvo showed clean, updated looks in evening wear, day wear, swimwear, and menswear. The theme of stripes, luxury fabrics, and delicate flowers was consistent across all categories. The Carmen Marc Valvo looks from my intern days were perfect for the opera, red carpets, simple weddings. Today, the long dresses could do that, but shorter dresses could take you to more casual destinations. While some silhouettes were structured to be formal-appropriate, other pieces had more relaxed fits. The separates could be dressy or could be your statement piece paired with jeans. Fashion rules had relaxed and been updated. Instead of satin strappy heels, runway looks were accessorized with sneakers and color coordinated flat sandals.

Both men and women were styled with curls. On the gents, loose curls were favored, but on the female models, the hair was sleek at the crown with full doll curls for the rest, styled with a bow. The women's hair was cute but seemed a bit at odds with the more updated, relaxed look of the shoes and clothing.

It is funny that so many of my dearest friends and colleagues in the industry have all worked or interned at Carmen Marc Valvo at some point. I don't know if he attracts like-minded people or it was just a coincidence. I wonder if the team behind his Spring 2017 collection will also find themselves close friends 20 years from now too?

Oh, the answer to the riddle? Take your pick: A) an embarrassed zebra or B) Make it a pun by substituting "red" for "read", making it a newspaper.

photos by Mariana Leung

Also on Ms. Fabulous:

Leanne Marshall's Goddess Dressing

Zang Toi's Giverny Journey

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Custo Barcelona Spring 2017

Future so bright, you gotta wear shades? Custo Barcelona's Spring 2017 collection was one of the most optimistic runways of the season. Models wore tinted sunglasses in shades of rose and sunrise yellow.

I love looking at individual garments of Custo Barcelona. Each piece is a collage of colors and embellishment techniques combined into one. Metallic sheer jackets could be re-embroidered with sequins and wood. A skirt in crochet could be layered beads, jewels, and tweed. As much as it may look like a jumble, it always works. 

The color palettes have a 1970s vibe of earthy shades mixed with shine and pastels. The key accessories were the tinted sunglasses as mentioned earlier. Handbags were prominent. They were also given the collage effect of contrasted decoration. Your bag wasn't meant to be matched exactly to your outfit, but complement it in tone and texture. 

Wide band sandals were the footwear of choice for both men and women. I appreciate that the flashy aesthetic of Custo Barcelona's Spring 2017 collection is balanced for both genders. I know my male friends who are fashion fans are often disappointed with brands that are afraid to carry through their high fashion concepts for the gents. So often, menswear can look the same from label to label. If a designer is going to go for it, go all the way!

All photos by Mariana Leung

Also on Ms. Fabulous:

Desigual's Snapchat Styling Spring 2017

Bibhu Mohapatra Spring 2017 - Parisian Art

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Michael Costello Spring 2017

This season's runways were in full bloom. Sure, you can go with pastels, but Project Runway alumni Michael Costello went for a richer, darker palette for spring 2017. The silhouettes were unabashedly sexy with many of the dramatic dresses with leg slits at navel height. I can imagine daring starlets having a great red carpet moment (or malfunction) with those.

Deep wine colors, sparkling off-black and beautiful little embroideries made this formal collection a winner. Costello was clearly aiming for dressing entire celebrity families. Handsome Tyson Beckford made his way down the catwalk as a teaser to the impending menswear collection. His suit a shimmering brocade. Two children's wear looks also came down the runway, once a young girl another a toddler. Could this be an attempt to pander to the Kardashians and Beyonces of the world?

I loved the gigantic flower crowns. I have seen too many wimpy music festival ones the past few years. The styling of this show made each model look like a Goddess of the wine harvest. The full-on glamor of the capes, satin jumpsuits, sequin gowns are a celebration of the bombshell and hourglass figures. His boutique in Los Angeles is just calling out to any celebrity who will have him. I am just happy to see my favorite colors being featured through spring and summer. Congrats to Michael Costello on Spring 2017

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#NYFW: Vera Wang Spring 2017

Vera Wang is the queen of all things bridal in this country. Aspirational brides can shop for her gowns, China, stationery, lounge wear and everything else possibly related to their nuptials. This is why Vera Wang fans were surprised with an avant-garde sportswear that paraded down the runway.

Celebrities are often in beaded Vera Wang gowns on the red carpet in rich colors while romantic brides are draped in yards of luxury fabric. On this catwalk, the designer went minimalist. Fabrics in ivory and black, crisp or translucent or draped. Sleeves were super long. The look was more up-and-coming renegade designer at MILL Studios rather than the Godmother of weddings.  Wang clearly wants a break from her look to explore a fresh start as a designer. I wonder how much of that encompasses other aspects of her life as well.

The show did include a few embellished, evening-appropriate pieces. The silhouettes were still pared down and minimalist with the black and white palette. However, there was a running Pearl embroidery pattern that included varied pearl sizes in an organic design.

I think it is healthy for all creatives to refresh and reset their work. Surely not all designers look as good as this show did. I wonder if Vera Wang's fans agree. Then again, how often do you need to get married?

Photos by Mariana Leung

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#NYFW: Byron Lars Inclusive Sizing Runway

The best trend out of Spring 2017 so far, Byron Lars flaunted most prominently. Several fashion designers have shown models beyond the typical "runway model" shape and proportion to reflect the diversity of their customer better. Lars referred to his new season, both ready-to-buy fall 2016 and spring 2017 as "inclusive" sizing.

His fans demanded his beautiful work to fit a larger range of customers. He took it to heart and researched what the plus sized market was doing wrong that so much full-figured were frustrated. I am happy to say I worked on this collection with Byron. From experience, I knew that most brands that even bother to produce clothing are larger sizes are simply sizing up. Lars spent months casting full-figured models, working with fashion fans, patternmakers and clothing construction to offer customers of ALL sizes the same impeccable fit and finish he is known for.

To be honest, some of the beautifully gathered and shaped dresses looked better on models of larger sizes and curves than models of the smaller size range. That shows what good design can do for a figure. Others flattered the athletic runner's body, as was demonstrated by Olympic medalist Kristi Castlin.

The clothes themselves, his famous sheath dresses are the standout. If you take the time to look closely at each dress, you will find an amazing amount of detail. There might be laser cut chiffon layered on top of print or mesh. There could be jewels, wood or metal embroidery around the neck. Brocade could be pieces with lace in body framing seams. You could be wrapped in impossibly twisted vegan suede so soft you want to sleep in it.

The front row wasn't so much about celebrities as it was a reunion of longtime fashion colleagues. I loved seeing legendary icon Fern Mallis, designer Tracy Reese, and Byron Lars getting silly after hugging it out on the red carpet. 

Congratulations Byron Lars on both Fall 2016 (grab it before it sells out) and the Spring 2017 collection. Inclusive sizing in fashion is what we all need.

All photos by Mariana Leung

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#NYFW: Tadashi Shoji Spring 2017

This was one of the prettiest runways in the first few days of NYFW. Tadashi Shoji drew his inspiration from the art of Wu Junyong. The show opened with an animated short called "The Living Ark" that had a dreamy depiction of animals and birds romping through nature. A crane saves the animals by pulling up the tree by pulling it up from a scorched Earth.

So how does that translate to eveningwear exactly? The dreamy blue, white, green and red from the animation was reflected in the collection. There were feathered fringe dresses to represent the birds. There were beautiful flowers embroidered onto dresses and jackets that had an exotic Garden of Eden look. Flowers were also entwined in the lace. Other embroideries emulated animal patterns like tiger or leopard. The silhouettes ranged from long and lean and slinky to short and flirty. There were a lot of sheer looks from the lace and embroidered tulle. Some of the dress bodices had corset closures. This was one of the sexiest Tadashi Shoji collections I have seen from the designer.

The jewelry of choice was the extra-long tassel earrings that swung from the models' ears. The hair was pulled back, but the knot and a few strands of hair was deliberately loose to show how the attitude was not supposed to be stuffy. There was a handbag or two with feathers trailing from the bottom.

Tadashi Shoji always has a sweet smile for all of his fans. He was one of the few big designers who happily made red carpet gowns for women of all sizes a few years ago. The rest of the industry is slowly catching up to him. I loved watching this pretty collection, I think this season was my favorite of all his collections.

All photos by Mariana Leung

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#NYFW Spring 2017 Preview - Fashion Designer Sketches

New York Fashion Week Spring 2017 begins! Summer is over when I pack up my gear and forget what sleep feels like when I get into the NYFW grind. For the designers, they likely have not slept for the past two months in chasing samples, organizing looks, casting models, etc. just for your sartorial entertainment.

For a sneak peek into the fashion shows Ms. Fabulous will be covering this season, you just need to peruse the fashion design sketches above. Both Tadashi Shoji and Son Jung Wan had high contrast red and white on the brain. Tadashi Shoji's muse was the idea of "reincarnation". What that means specifically, I can only guess. Does his muse find herself reincarnated from a leopard based on that animal print? Son Jung Wan is also reliving the past with a 1970's look. She takes her inspiration from the dramatic silhouettes and glamor of the era.

Leanne Marshall (center) submitted a beautiful watercolor fashion illustration. Her theme was dance and the shimmering qualities of crystal stones. Desigual (top left) will be featuring sequin embroidery and other 3D graphic elements on top of tie-dyed denim. Below that is the look of "modern feminity" from sister designers Shaikha Noor Al Khalifa and Shaikha Haya Al Khalifa of Noon by Noor. Taoray Wang's soft, but tailored look was inspired by the smooth pebbles of Kyoto's gardens juxtaposed against the sleek urban edges of NYC's skyscrapers. On the right side, Nicole Miller mixes a different city with New York, Panama. She is blending the textures and colors of traditional Panama with the modernity of Gotham. The simple line sketch of Vicky Zhang is a romantic silhouette. Her inspiration this season was just to nestle into love.

So are you ready for the parade of spring 2017 fashion we will bring you? New York Fashion Week, here we come.

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Miami Fashion Week: Gottex Swimwear 2017

Gottex is remembered as the elegant show of Miami Swim Week. The models are styled with long, flowing cover-ups that easily double as evening wear. This label always has my favorite prints. The standout patterns included a rich, dark peacock and a graphic animal print that looked like a stripe. Speaking of stripes, there were some great silhouettes where stripes were used to flattering effwct around the body.

While some swimwear is great for partying or sunning at the beach, Gottex looks like it is perfect for striking a pose on a yacht. Design director Keren Gasner has been great at moving the brand ahead with classic sophistication, but updated silhouettes and prints. Simply beautiful. 

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#NYFWM: Parke and Ronen Spring 2017

Here are a bunch of cute boys in swimwear! Parke and Ronen's spring 2017 collection was all about collegiate athletics. The clothing had a lot of upgraded varsity graphics like letter jackets and sweaters. Whimsical motifs accompanied some of the logos. Sport stripes were prominent in the ready to wear separates and swimwear.

While there were a few board short styles, most of the looks were short and TIGHT! Better get in shape guys.

The two designers Parke Lutter and Ronen Jehezkel met two decades ago as recent fashion school graduates. They partnered up to build their innovative menswear brand and also in life. Their spontaneous moment of celebration during their finale was adorable.

That has got to be one of the best trends in fashion this past year. Many of the creative couples I know got married in the last two years. How wonderful is it to collaborate in life and in love? Parke and Ronen's spring 2017 collection makes it all look good.

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NYFWM: Robert James Spring 2017

The rock n' roll continued through Robert James' spring 2017 collection last night. The Ohio designer has commited himself to making classic menswear with a modern twist. The look had a British rocker slant to it with models who looked like a young Mick Jagger. The fit was very slim on the pants and jackets. Animal print and leather gave an edge to tailored pieces. 

The overall presentation format was highly effective. Emerging designers take note. The venue was not big compared to other fashion week locations. Rock band equipment was places throughout to add some ambience. Models posed on either side of the columns and rotated throughout the duration to strut down the center aisle like a runway. This created multiple photo opportunities for any guest. This also worked for a collection of fewer looks than your standard catwalk show. I loved that the models injected their own personality into their turn on the runway. 

Since the collection rotated through over and over again, it allowed for more guests to see the presentation whenever they arrived. The presentation felt intimate in that space and the models relaxed attitude helped that as well. 

The Robert James collection is a great label to follow for gents looking for a good wardrobe of fashion forward classics to live by.

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NY Bridal Week: Reem Acra Bridal Spring 2017 Bond Girls

There were a lot of "naked" dresses on the NY Bridal Fashion week runways this season. Reem Acra did the opposite. She designed a collection that had a traditionally romantic look and modest coverage for her Spring 2017 collection.

That's not to say her gowns weren't sexy. There was a lot of lace with layers of sheerness as opposed to overt skin exposure. There was an attractive corset detail in the back of several gowns with a wide ribbon lattice that implied more skin exposure instead of a completely bare back. 

This classically beautiful bridal collection was a contrast to her last two NYFW collections which were the most provocative I have seen from Acra. Her spring 2016 had a Sheherazade harem theme; her fall 2016 runway was full of Femme Fatale lingerie looks.  

Perhaps Reem Acra's sultry sirens wanted to play blushing bride for a day. The soundtrack for this runway was a medley of James Bond tunes. While the dramatic theme usually goes over well for a fashion show, it was odd for a classic wedding catwalk. The image of James Bond and women don't exactly bring to mind commitment and eternal love. Most of the (many) women in his life don't live long after being romanced by him. The one installment of the series where he gets married was the least popular of the franchise. So what exactly is the message here?

I might be over thinking this. Luckily, the beauty of the dresses transcends the music. My favorite looks were the gowns with tightly beaded bodice and huge stacked organza ruffles. Based on social media reactions to my photos, I wasn't alone in my choice.

If you want to feel like a princess on your special day, I can't imagine a more regal designer than Reem Acra to dress you for the aisle.

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NY Bridal Week: THEIA Spring 2017 Sci-Fi Bride

Wow. Just wow. THEIA's runway show for NY Bridal Week put the BANG in big bang theory. The name THEIA refers to the Goddess of light. For his spring 2017 bridal collection, designer Don O'Neill created a futuristic runway around his belief that the concept of love is represented by pure, white light. 

The look of the collection was inspired by the underwater photography of Rafal Makiela . The rippled silver backdrop and catwalk reflected light onto the bright white fabrics. Reflection was a running theme in the materials from this collection. There were foil printed silver and white fabrics.

Rafal Makiela underwater photo

Silvery laser-cut paillettes. There were several "naked" dresses that highlighted incredible beading that looked like swirling stars. There was a gown with a plasticized nylon bodice, another with glazed sequin embroidery.
The most dramatic looks were the ones that looked like they were dressed for the wedding of a science fiction fantasy. There was a silk crepe gown that was orbited by a sparkling starry halo (a much more interesting alternative to a veil). Another stunning look was a tall "vortex"collar made of raffia that framed the model. The final look of a crystal corset seemed to defy gravity. It really did look like water had been splashed against the model and just hung in the air.

Some of the accompanying bouquets that were carried by the brides were equally space-worthy. Elegant orchids were entwined with silver and crystal tentacles. Platinum spears were arranged with spiky plants I couldn't even recognize. Do you think the science fiction element stops there? All of the bridal looks were named after characters from Star Wars, Star Trek and other genre films like the Fifth Element, The Matrix, and Alien.

 The floral artist was Fleur de Pascal, who just happened to be the fiance of the designer. Their upcoming nuptials will be taking place by Don O'Neill's hometown. It was also pointed out to me that it was also near the site of where they were filming the next Star Wars movie.

The THEIA Spring 2017 bridal collection was not only romantic on many levels, but it was really fun. The avant-garde looks and geeky references hit me where I live. I can't wait to see photos from the upcoming wedding and hope there are just as many sci-fi references there too.

Runway photos by Mariana Leung

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