FAB Link Love: The Best of Fashion Blog Links Last Week

Jealousy, Race, and Summer Jackets

Edited by: Thom Wong of The Sunday Best.
A veritable cornucopia of stylish reading awaits you in this week's list. You'll get taken on a tour of (rarely mentioned) downtown Halifax, discuss again whether any role model should be based on image, and look into doing the impossible with a dying medium. Along the way discover what tips men might have for women's style, whether a closet can be perfectly unisex, and what Mormons might know about minimalism.

Links à la Mode: August 5th

• Amanda Lee: Avoiding Fashion Impulse Buys


• All Tumbled Down: Reflections on a year of no shopping


• An Early Life Crisis: Project 27 Completed!


• Beyond Fabric: Work appropriate: tips for being presentable at conservative workplaces


• Broke and Beautiful: You smell different.


• Clothed Much: How to create a minimalist closet


• Fashionable People, Questionable Things: Big Day Downtown: A Roundup of our shopping trip in downtown Halifax.


• Frenchleave: Who wants to wear a summer jacket


• Guacamole and Toast: An interview with The Impossible Project's Florian Kaps


• Independent Fashion Bloggers: How to take your own outfit photos


• Mariel's Castle: A case of unisex


• The Demoiselles: Women in the Media: Adele


• Stylish Thought: Losing Out Essence: Issues of Race in Fashion


• Modly Chic: Friend Friday: Blogger Jealousy


• Oranges and Apple German magazine bans professional models - nine months on


• Sparkle Birds: Sunday's Best


• Sugar and Spice: Christina Hendricks: curvy role model or another unattainable ideal?


• The Coveted: Three essential beauty products under $20


• The Sunday Best: Copy Fail | Gap CORE


• The Very Subjective: The Style Thing


• Un-Stitched: Best of etsy.com

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NYFW: Evan Hirsch x Goodwill

Designer Evan Hirsch brought sustainable fashion and high end thrifting to his first show on the official CFDA calendar. In his second collaboration with Goodwill, he demonstrated how previously owned items can be used as raw materials for art and couture.

Each of his key looks was inspired by a popular category on the ShopGoodwill website. For instance, Lego sets remain a special category unto themselves. Hirsch took the block concept and interpreted it into a jeweled embellishment pattern to upcycle a former Joseph Abboud suit.

A hand-painted hooped party dress was a collaboration with art students of Art Strong NYC, where they were given individual panels to transform before coming together in a cohesive look.

Lots and lots of jewelry can be counted on to be found at the stores an online. Hirsch took mixed pieces, bags of pearls and vintage lace garments to createe this bridal look. The embroidery alone took him over a week.

With sustainable style in mind, this fashion collection was never intended to be manufactured en masse. Instead, Evan Hirsch is reducing waste and creating one-of-a-kind statement pieces meant to be treasured or collected like art. 

Slow, second-life styling may not be a lifestyle people will adapt to overnight, but Hirsch has made a great pitch for it.

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Cafe Louis Vuitton

 I treated myself to a fashion-centric brunch for my birthday. Who knew a heritage luggage company could make a good morning meal? Cafe Louis Vuitton gives you exactly what you would want as an aspirational fashion fan or tourist; dishes built to feed your phone first. Almost every dish is branded with the brand's logo. Each latte is stenciled with a detailed logo. The waffle served with smoked salmon or caviar carries the logo. 

I'm surprised the basket of Viennoiseries did not contain branding, just delicious, butter laminated flakiness. My husband inhaled the pecan pastry like it was merely air. 

The cafe setting was a cozy library of books celebrating travel and art. Residing on the top floor of the temporary outpost of Louis Vuitton on 57th street, you get to journey through several floors of the company's beautiful merchandise on your way to your meal. This is why the experience is set up for the aspirational fan, more than the regular shopper. Your outing was designed to envelope you in the aesthetic and luxury of the brand for those who likely can't afford to shop there regularly.  

Was it worth it? If you are a fan of the brand, and the overall visit to the NYC store is as important to you as the meal, then yes. It IS about the brand more than the food. If you are looking for an exceptional brunch purely on a gourmand level, New York City has plenty of options that are stunning, likely at a more reasonable price point, in just as charming a location.

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House of Craft x Dior Exhibit

You might admire the fashion label of Christian Dior, but do you know all of the creative people who shaped it or made it? The UBS House of Craft x Dior event in NYC's Financial District answered those questions. 

Fashion editor Carine Roitfeld, together with photographer Brigitte Niedermair, curated an exhibit of iconic looks from the House of Dior under the label's creative directors throughout its history. Sketches demonstrated the design process of leaders Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons, and Maria Grazia Chiuri.

The exhibit also showcased the most memorable accessories, garments, and styled editorials, showcasing each designer's vision. There were also a series of talks about the different aspects of the fashion industry. I found the demonstrations and intimate one-on-ones with current artisans of the label the most interesting. 

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NYFW: Zang Toi Fall/Winter 2025

Zang Toi invited everyone at NYFW to board the Orient Express. The backdrop referenced the legendary train, and the collection evoked the romantic old-school art of slow, luxurious travel around the globe. The runway show was intimate, elegant, and refined, reminding me of the sophisticated salons of yesteryear.

The key colors were intense sapphire blue, jet black, and emerald green. Texturally, there is a lot of shine in the leather, silk, shimmery embroidery, or jeweled details. Zang Toi uses the most luxurious Loro Piana cashmere and silk velvet, so the customer experience of ordering a gala piece from this collection must feel like being fitted like an exotic royal. The difference is that Zang Toi is one of the few designers who make pieces in-house in New York City. 

One motif I particularly loved was the jeweled phoenix. Symbolically, the phoenix in Asian culture represents the feminine, good fortune, and harmony. In other cultures, she represents strength, fire, perseverance, and rebirth after an arduous trial—all empowering messages we need right now.

In a time of turbulent history, it was a treat to escape to faraway locales through fashion. The best collections will do that. 

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NYFW: Richerette x Care Bears Fall/Winter 2025

Stroll on by with that Care Bear Stare. Are any of you old emough to remember that phrase? I remember those cartoons as a kid and those soft, plush embroidered bellies. A redeemed Club Kid creating a collection that evokes childhood nostalgia for a new era is the perfect collaboration. 

The super bright pastels, playful silhouettes like new variations of bubble skirts, craft-embellished denim, polka dots brought a big smile to my face. Richie Rich and his Richerette brand always does.

While each runway look may be a bit extreme for day to day, especially if you are at the age where you were once a club kid, you can remind yourself that the catwalk is never meant to be taken literally. When you look at individual garments, they make fun statement pieces paired with your practical, quiet luxury staples. Having a pop color or bubble skirt peek out from under a blazer is that bit of inner child you need to resist the corporate "adulting" we're all trying to avoid. 

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Harlem's Fashion Row Collaboration with Byron Lars, Krystal A. Phillips on HSN

Are you ready for "sweater weather"? I bought my warm-weather favorites from Harlem's Fashion Row in collaboration with HSN. I love that the size range goes up to 3X, so my fashion friends of all shapes can indulge in this one. Perrenial Ms. Fabulous favorite Byron Lars and designer Krystal A. Phillips are both featured in HSN's celebration of African-American fashion designers. Extra-enticing means you can grab their pieces at the HSN price point if the designers have previously been out of reach.

My color obsession for Fall 2024 has been deep fushia. The Harlem's Fashion Row HSN collaboration has abundant this color and other hues. I started with the oversized full Melton coat (top) from Kaphill NYC, which I threw on the first chilly day upstate while picking ugly apples off my tree. For a dressier evening-wear-friendly look, I wrapped in the luxurious brocade coat from Byron Lars and Sheila Gray.

I'm in love with the beautiful textures, like lace t-shirts and the rich prints of the sweaters and dresses of both designers. They elevate essential garment items to make them the statement piece for your seasonal wardrobe. I also can't wait to flaunt the faux leather long skirt as a flashy piece to pair with new boots.

While fashion insiders like me have been longtime fans of  Byron Lars, Sheila Gray, and designers promoted by Harlem's Fashion Row, I love that an affordable platform like HSN has invested in these brands to bring them to a much broader audience. It was a great move for everyone as the styles I loved were sold out quickly but, luckily, replenished swiftly. Grab them before they are really gone!

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NYFW: Malan Breton Spring 2025

 Leather for spring? I don't know why designers often offer it only in the fall. Malan Breton showed exquisitely tailored leather evening wear in ladylike pastel shades. The seaming and corseting details were incredibly flattering for any female form. Breton's Savile Row training showing itself. The theme of the collection was "Betrayal, Revenge & Hope". 

There were plenty of gowns in traditional evening wear fabrics, also in the sugary pink and rosy pearl greys, but also a pop of citric yellow. Of course, sophisticated black is an easy sell for customers every season.

In some cases, it was a LOT of dress, even for the professional models. A few struggled with the long tapered silhouettes or had to carry the enormous skirt down the runway. One model continually toppled over in her heels. If the pros are having a hard time, how are the rest of us mortals supposed to navigate such fabulousness?

Malan Breton always shows a glamorous collection that evokes old-school elegance that is increasingly lost in today's world of athleisure and streetwear. The Project Runway alum has also been an accomplished filmmaker as well. His autobiographical film "A Journey to Taiwan" was a moving tribute to his roots and creative process. He debuted "Je Suis Mona" a documentary featuring his muse/model and philanthropist Elton Ilirjani, winning the Trailblazer award at the NYC International Fashion Film Festival.

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NYFW: Naeem Khan's Wicked Spring 2025

Are we excited about the Wicked Movie? Naeem Khan's Spring 2025 collection was a tribute to both witches and the movie musical. It is the most anticipated movie for the holidays and muse to the most fashionable promotional tour this fall.

The NYFW fashion show was staged at the ornate Angel Orensanz center on the Lower East Side. The dramatic venue was the backdrop to intricately sexy gowns inspired by "Elphaba" in black or emerald green. Embellishments included jet beading and re-embroidered lace.  Dresses for "Galinda" included flowing chiffon, sheer pink, and angelic ivory. Embroideries included tulle petals, silver feathers and shimmering beading. 

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LONDON: Lore of Loverboy Exhibit - Club to Catwalk Punk

I just returned from London, where I wondered what the state of punk fashion was today. At Somerset House, there was a fabulous exhibit by designer-in-residence Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY. 

The designer's looks include fans like Tilda Swinton and Harry Styles. What makes his work classically British punk is the incorporation of traditional Tartans and a healthy dose of anarchy. What makes his work modern club fashion is the mix of surrealism and novelty motifs with streetwear. What makes LOVERBOY art are the pieces that double as sculptures, like the Wedgewood dragon helmet, repurposed trash dress, or my favorite banana shoes below.

The spirit of punk fashion started off as anti-establishment and involved mutilated, trashed clothing in many cases. Fashion collections from many a "club kid" turned "designer" often have little merit or endurance. Ten years into his thriving label and seeing Charles Jeffrey's workspace and process, the "club kid" persona should be the very least of his designer identity. Seeing the sketches, the pattern and draping, the official tartan registry certificate, and the thoughtfulness of his collaborations, the LOVERBOY works more like a classic couturier atelier than many contemporary labels.

For anyone who thinks the art in modern club fashion, or social media savvy designers is gone. They only need to see the Charles Jeffrey Loverboy collection to restore their faith.

The Lore of Loverboy exhibit runs until September 1, 2024.

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NYFW: Custo Barcelona Fall 2024

Forget quiet luxury. Custo Barcelona's Fall 2024 is all about maximalist style. I love Custo Barcelona's bright graphic prints every season. When the weather gets more relaxed and more parties are on the calendar, I love the sparkly texture color-blocked into the silhouettes in this collection. 

Fall 2024 had a mix of easy, relaxed bodies for those still in post-Covid comfort mode. Then, there are a few body-conscious lean dresses to show off the physiques of those who worked out the last few years. 

A few graphic, street art-inspired embellished prints would look great as an elevated pairing with jeans under a jacket. 

My favorite was the sparkly turquoise fringe pieces that lit up the runway. 

Beauty-wise, the models were kept casual and fresh. Why compete with the main show of the clothes?

Bring on the sun!

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NYFW: Zang Toi Fall 2024 Pays Tribute to His Brother See Luon

NYFW Fall 2024 was a season of deeply emotional collections. Last night, Designer Zang Toi's fashion show served as a celebration of life for his beloved brother, See Luon. A beautiful rendition of "Amazing Grace" was sung at the end of the runway. At the same time, the House of Toi family gathered on the runway with roses. Show guests and models were personally invited to pay tribute as well. You may have read my previous runway reports of Zang Toi shows and how they are loved by the photographer riser. One of the many reasons the House of Toi is devoted was the famous curried chicken sandwiches, often handmade by See Luon himself to nourish photographers who often waited hours to shoot the collection. 

Tonight's riser was a reunion of longtime press corps photographers, many of whom traveled to the city from far away to shoot this show specifically after skipping many other designers for NY Fashion Week. 

 The collection itself took inspiration from vintage Parisian glamour. Long fishtail gowns in velvet, luxurious brightly colored furs, sparkling jeweled details. The palette was a romantic black, red, hot pink, and rich orange. Motifs of roses were woven throughout in prints and embroidered appliques. The daytime looks had graphic prints with the same color palette and ladylike vintage silhouettes. Beauty-wise, deep red lipstick, and a red accent in the slicked-back hair was the season's look. 

For anyone who doubts that fashion design can be meaningful or therapeutic, just sampling Fall 2024 collections should answer that inquiry. I want to think that See Luon was watching the show from above, loving the gorgeous work that he supported and inspired, and saw a room full of people there to appreciate his contribution.

Photos by Mariana Leung

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NYFW: The Blonds FUEGO

The Blonds brought the heat to the Starrett Lehigh runway Saturday night. Their collection, FUEGO, was a tribute to Latin culture, the fiery, the strong, and the stylish figures who inspired them. Design-wise, this manifested itself into dimensional flame appliques in snake patterns and metallic leather and crystal-encrusted details. 

The Blonds as a label is not for day-to-day lifestyle wardrobes. They are one-of-a-kind statement pieces favored by the biggest entertainment icons like Beyonce, Lady Gaga, and Miley Cyrus. You need charisma (and some strong muscles) to carry off any of these larger-than-life looks. You need a hefty budget for the handmade pieces, but consider it an investment for your worldwide tour. 

If you were a nightlife fixture in the 1990s, this aesthetic would seem familiar as a muse. Legendary club divas like Diane Brille and drag queens were in the audience, as well as entertainers like Becky G.

The hair and makeup of course had to be on the same level. I watched the wigs, which were as sculptural as the clothing, being built up backstage. I have never seen winged eyeliner ready to take flight more than the models on this night.

Watching this runway, I felt nostalgic for a time in New York when going OUT was a production. Sure, a chill night at home is appealing, but I miss when the process of getting ready was as much fun as the destination. The Blonds will forever capture that era.

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NYFW: AdoreMe's Romantic Takeover, Plus, Ashanti!

Are you ready for romance? AdoreMe's inclusive lingerie collection opened and got NY Fashion Week off to a sexy start. When this brand first came on my radar, I was impressed that it claimed to have over 60 sizes. As a technical designer, fitting intimate apparel is already tough, let along for an extensive range of sizes as they claimed to offer. 

I first tried their offerings in 2020 when I was a different size. I tried them again in recent seasons. I am not proportional, finding bras particularly hard to find. I must say, for their cute, themed collections, cut-outs, straps, etc. Their fit was spot-on! Their prices are reasonable, which is another tough thing to do for detailed lingerie. 

While many companies claim to be inclusive in their sizing, they don't show that in their marketing. This runway appeared to show models that flaunted their full range of sizing in all shapes with great attitude. 

The lineup was divided into three moods, with the design director narrating the runway in the style of "Bridgerton". The first was ready for Valentine's Day, the second had a more tropical palette, the final group had a bridal theme. 2023's bow trend was going strong as the top accesory for hair, bras and butts.

As a surprise, the fashion show closed with a surprise performance by superstar Ashanti. The glowing singer slayed the stage in a sexy leather outfit and jewel-studded microphone. The entire crowd joined in singing with her in the after-party. 

Happy Valentine's Day!

Photos by Mariana Leung

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Costume Themes From The Carnival of Venice

The Carnival of Venice is in full swing in the city of Canals. The multi-week Carnevale di Venezia brings out the most lavish, elaborate costumes and masks the creative world has seen. The classic look takes its cues from 18th-century European elite. Usually, in coupled pairs, the outfits consist of corseted, full-skirted gowns, capes, tailcoats and pants ending below the knee, all elaborately embellished with with lace and embroidery in complementary colors

As the theme for 2024 was Marco Polo's journey to the Orient and back, there was a range of Asiatique-inspired looks, ranging from artistic to culturally appropriated to, unsurprisingly, downright racist. 

While 90% of the costumes I saw followed tradition, there was a distinctive Goth and Steampunk offshoot. This was reflected in the souvenir masks I saw for sale as well. The majority of classical theatrical masks vs steampunk masks was about 90% to 10%. Interesting how no other trend seemed to infiltrate the selection. I wonder why Steampunk made the cut?

Disney characters made their mark here. Disney villains were abundant for characters that rejected Venetian tradition or Steampunk. There were a few more creative groups, like my favorite Aladdin and Pinnochio crew.

So are you ready to BRING IT to Venice? Get ready to dress your best. Enjoy!

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NYFW: Custo Barcelona SS24

When I think of SPRING 2024 collections from this past NY Fashion Week, Custo Barcelona's SS24 runway was the first to come to mind. The sunny rays of yellow, sky blue and statement shades from the runway are exactly what I needed on this frigid, snow-filled week. I am looking forward to warmer, brighter days, hopefully in the coming weeks! 

Many of the looks were breezy, sheer and flowing. While I shiver here in the show, I daydream of these Custo Barcelona outfits on the beach boardwalk in warmer times. I always loved this brand's mix of patterns and color. This spring, the design details also include sexy cut-outs, continuing a popular trend from recent seasons. Also, some sparkly embellishments accent daytime looks. While the silhouettes are can be more relaxed, the designer wanted to make sure that casual, athleisure is a thing of Covid past. This label has never been for the wallflower, and that's what makes is so fun. Bring on the sun!

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NYFW: Ashlyn So Spring 2024

Ashlyn So is proof that talent and age are not exclusive. She has the distinction of being the youngest designer to have shown at NYFW. Her inspirations run deep, perhaps surprising for someone so young. Her creations were a response to working through thoughts around mental health this season. That translated into avant-garde silhouettes, innovative textures, liquid fabrics that could be interpreted in abstract way. The cellist playing on the runway provided a thoughtful, contemplative ambience to the presentation. 

Ashlyn So could be racking up the press mentions for her designs and age, but more impressively, her work as an activist is what she is remembered for. Her collections are reactionary to issues like anti-Asian discrimination and #StopAsianHate. Another recent collection for Paris cited Asian icon Bruce Lee as muse. She is as comfortable taking a bow on the runway as she is speaking at the United Nations. 

I can't to see what else Ashlyn So has in store for us next on the world stage!

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NYFW: Dur Doux Spring/Summer 2024

It is September and hot and humid as hell. It would take a stellar collection and event to get me to wander out in the thunderstorms. and the Dur Doux show Saturday night was it. Mother and daughter designers Cathy and Najla Burt presented "Sous-Marine" a collection that pays tribute to the delicate marine life of their native Florida. 

Dur Doux has been a label committed to sustainable practices and this season features eco-friendly Italian knits fabrics certified by OEKO-TEX.

The reds, pinks, and golds evoke the corals, flamingos and sunsets. The body-conscious silhouettes are the best of beach-worthy glamour. 

I will always be a sucker for any fashion label that brings family together. Just look at that hug from the finale!

All photos by Mariana Leung

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NYFW: NARDOS Spring 2024

Are you looking for Venetian-style couture by way of Northeast Africa, via Texas, then New York? Nardos Imam's gorgeous collection was presented at the St. Regis Hotel on Friday. Bright spring colors, like a vibrant garden of flowers, took center runway. Nardos is already beloved for her bridal collections. The luxurious gowns of Nardos Spring 2024 were inspired by Venetian architecture, Murano glass and large, luscious blooms. You could see this influence in the sculpted, expertly draped dresses. As an embroidery designer, I loved the dimensional embellishments from crafted appliques, beaded, sequined accents, 3D flowers and threadwork lemons. 

The bright pink is obviously a hot color still following the Barbie movie. Some of the silhouettes evoked iconic movie looks, like the pouffy dress that evoked Sabrina. 

I don't know why you don't see more color on brides; each look here would be lovely to get married in. More appropriately, Hollywood red carpets should be filled with Nardos looks. 

When looking at the accessories, how much do you love the floral crowns integrated into the hair? That puts all of the bows and other hairclips to shame.

Take a trip around the world in a gown from Nardos. Why not?

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