NY FASHION WEEK: Ralph Rucci Spring 2014

Ralph Rucci’s commitment to detail is obvious. His Spring/Summer ‘14 collection’s intricate construction and luscious fabrics left my senses high with allure and delicate charm.

The show began with the slight dimming and subsequent revival of bright lights, setting the tone for Rucci’s increasing intricacies in pieces throughout the show.

Rucci introduced the collection with slimming and relaxed fitting black and white ensembles. Tuxedo pants, python jackets and semi-sheers tops called for the classy woman with no absence in style.

Leather jackets and detailed cutout broadtail coats remained clean and fit, while tunics and pants gave way to free flowing ease in silk chiffon and tulle.

A pale, muted palette allowed for each piece’s construction and fabric to stand out. Nudes, blacks and white gave way to deep bronzes, and the fabrics thickened with each look as well. Precise cut and fitted pants, coupled with an all over bronze sheen and zip open back, gave Rucci’s “Bronze Shantung Mao” suit a show stopping staple, sure to be all over trendy bodies soon.

The looks moved between monotone, crisp structured Upper East Side wear and Downtown disco sparkle with an all over black paillette with an exposed sheer torso.

My favorite of the night was a late 15th century Gothic homage via a Maltese cross gown. The edge of the sheer and opaque black sleeveless top was countered with a floor length, pastel satin, sheer striped skirt. Perfect!

Rucci continued his eclectic era references with a “Nude Braided Chiffon Samurai” knee length spaghetti strap. The dress slightly tiered each inch down, unfolding into modern chic heights, ending with a longer sheer bottom.

Rucci exemplified beauty in every piece. Each look channeled a classy, broken mermaid. One who fares better on the streets of New York, but wears her luscious roots as a dress.
- Niko Nelson

photos by David TW Leung

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Chado Ralph Rucci Spring 2013

American couture. The term is tossed around lightly, but Ralph Rucci is the one designer whom it truly applies to.  The designer's New York Fashion Week show was a striking display of the capabilities of his New York design studio.  He is the only American accepted by the Chambre Syndicale in Paris for Haute Couture.

Signature Chado Ralph Rucci details, like the anatomically flattering seaming was present.  The color palette had clean white and black, but with gorgeous shots of neon sorbet colors of bright tangerine, lemon and raspberry pink.  There were a few pieces with shine and feathers for more novelty texture for his Spring 2013 collection.  

Wearing an exquisite couture creation, made in New York is as patriotic as fashion gets, (at least until you find a way to wear Miss Liberty's copper robes). 

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4th of July Fashion: Made in the USA

What is your Independence Day fashion resolution?  Is it to show your patriotic side by shopping
designers who produce their collections stateside?

Recent news that the Garment Center’s roots are being downplayed to accommodate other tenants was devastating to an industry that has struggled to stay in New York for years. While costs are the obvious factor in designers going overseas, one can’t forget the many benefits of producing in the United States.

Local factories are essential to designers who don’t have the volume of mega-brands going overseas. 
Independent brands also offer a unique vision in fashion and can produce quicker to react to trends, and customer preferences.  

I recently found some family-owned companies that have been in the Garment center for generations.  M & S Schmalberg makes custom handmade fabric flowers from antique tools dating back 150 years. They are hand-cut, painted, dyed, glued, trimmed, embellished into a work of art that soon becomes another work of art as part of another designer's creation. They are unique to the industry and an art that thankfully, many designers know is worth preserving. For the artistically inclined, you can take a workshop and tour of this amazing studio to learn the craft yourself.

Dersh Feathers is another mainstay in the area that has supplied high-quality feathers to top designers, costume makers and creative legends for decades. This is a smaller place than you would imagine for the range of colors, textures, birds, feather shapes that they carry. Leave your allergies at the door, there are feathers EVERYWHERE. 

Check out these designers who use local suppliers to produce their collections:
 
Angel Sanchez:
This designer and architect may have had his roots in Venezuela, but his label has been a proud New Yorker since 1997.  His architect background is visible in the structured looks of his bridal and eveningwear line.  His fans include Eva Longoria, Taylor Swift and Beyonce.

Ann Yee:
A graduate of Philadelphia University, Ann Yee designed knits for labels like Alice + Olivia, Barney's and LaROK before branching out on her own.  Her collection reflects a mastery of fabric and draping.

Designers who have previously been profiled in Ms. Fabulous and produce in the U.S.A. include: Ralph Rucci, Alexander Wang, Jason Wu, RichardChai and Milly.  Even more...  Douglas Hannant, Anna Sui, House of Waris.

To learn more on how to Save the Garment Center, click here for resources.

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Inside Chado Ralph Rucci Resort 2013

 We are coming up on the 4th of July.  This is where I love to give props to all of the designers who proudly produce in the United States.

Ralph Rucci has earned his accolades sculpting deceptively simple, ultra-flattering clothing for a posh clientele.  Body contouring seams, trapunto stitching and shaped piecing really celebrate a woman's body.  He is a true American couturier (the first of this country to be accepted by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture.)

I visited their downtown studio to see their artisans at work.  The embellishment specialist was drawing precise placements for embroidery on a pattern.  Other seamstresses were stitching pieces by hand.  A team of interns hand picked sequins on beaded fabric.

 

Resort 2013 had many of Mr. Rucci's signature touches.  Basic silhouettes were augmented by 

cheeky touches of transparency.  Waists were accentuate with stitched inserts.  The designer also added new colors to his typical palette, using wisteria, seafoam, red and rich purple.  The art of patternmaking was on full display from the perfectly draped muslins on the mannequins.  This should be no surprise, the designer learned his craft from Halston and Balenciaga.

So are you feeling patriotic?  Shop local with chic dresses made in New York!

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