The show began with the slight dimming and subsequent revival of bright lights, setting the tone for Rucci’s increasing intricacies in pieces throughout the show.
Rucci introduced the collection with slimming and relaxed fitting black and white ensembles. Tuxedo pants, python jackets and semi-sheers tops called for the classy woman with no absence in style.
Leather jackets and detailed cutout broadtail coats remained clean and fit, while tunics and pants gave way to free flowing ease in silk chiffon and tulle.
A pale, muted palette allowed for each piece’s construction and fabric to stand out. Nudes, blacks and white gave way to deep bronzes, and the fabrics thickened with each look as well. Precise cut and fitted pants, coupled with an all over bronze sheen and zip open back, gave Rucci’s “Bronze Shantung Mao” suit a show stopping staple, sure to be all over trendy bodies soon.
The looks moved between monotone, crisp structured Upper East Side wear and Downtown disco sparkle with an all over black paillette with an exposed sheer torso.
My favorite of the night was a late 15th century Gothic homage via a Maltese cross gown. The edge of the sheer and opaque black sleeveless top was countered with a floor length, pastel satin, sheer striped skirt. Perfect!
Rucci continued his eclectic era references with a “Nude Braided Chiffon Samurai” knee length spaghetti strap. The dress slightly tiered each inch down, unfolding into modern chic heights, ending with a longer sheer bottom.
- Niko Nelson