Chado Ralph Rucci Spring 2013

American couture. The term is tossed around lightly, but Ralph Rucci is the one designer whom it truly applies to.  The designer's New York Fashion Week show was a striking display of the capabilities of his New York design studio.  He is the only American accepted by the Chambre Syndicale in Paris for Haute Couture.

Signature Chado Ralph Rucci details, like the anatomically flattering seaming was present.  The color palette had clean white and black, but with gorgeous shots of neon sorbet colors of bright tangerine, lemon and raspberry pink.  There were a few pieces with shine and feathers for more novelty texture for his Spring 2013 collection.  

Wearing an exquisite couture creation, made in New York is as patriotic as fashion gets, (at least until you find a way to wear Miss Liberty's copper robes). 

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Inside Chado Ralph Rucci Resort 2013

 We are coming up on the 4th of July.  This is where I love to give props to all of the designers who proudly produce in the United States.

Ralph Rucci has earned his accolades sculpting deceptively simple, ultra-flattering clothing for a posh clientele.  Body contouring seams, trapunto stitching and shaped piecing really celebrate a woman's body.  He is a true American couturier (the first of this country to be accepted by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture.)

I visited their downtown studio to see their artisans at work.  The embellishment specialist was drawing precise placements for embroidery on a pattern.  Other seamstresses were stitching pieces by hand.  A team of interns hand picked sequins on beaded fabric.

 

Resort 2013 had many of Mr. Rucci's signature touches.  Basic silhouettes were augmented by 

cheeky touches of transparency.  Waists were accentuate with stitched inserts.  The designer also added new colors to his typical palette, using wisteria, seafoam, red and rich purple.  The art of patternmaking was on full display from the perfectly draped muslins on the mannequins.  This should be no surprise, the designer learned his craft from Halston and Balenciaga.

So are you feeling patriotic?  Shop local with chic dresses made in New York!

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Chado Ralph Rucci Spring 2012

Chado Ralph Rucci's exquisite tailoring always makes him a favorite at museum fashion exhibitions.  Design students take notes on the signature seaming that dissects the anatomy like a surgeon.

For spring 2012, Mr. Rucci did not disappoint.  The runway was awash with a palette of white, more white and some shades of off-white. Shiny silver was the second big color, with inky grey/black as part of some spot prints as an accent.  Silhouettes were very body conscious.  Separates, dresses, framed the body in ultra-flattering shapes.  The only misstep was the use of clear vinyl in some looks.  It veered dangerously into spaceman costume territory.

The highly polished runway reflected the collection from below so all of the clothes looked like they were glowing from within.  I don't know how much philosophy plays into this designer's creative process, but if there was a church of fashion enlightenment, this would be it.

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Dream to Seam - Chado Ralph Rucci

Ralph Rucci is considered one of the most prolific modern American designers today.  His innovative seaming and craftmanship is recognized by the fashion elite all over the world.  He has been the only American designer invited to show in Paris for Haute Couture.        

ModaCycle is a group that originated as a collective of runway photographers and editors.  In the first episode of their new video interview series, viewers can get some insight into Rucci's work process and inspiration.  The series is the most ambitious new project from the collective to date and aims to show hour-long interviews of other top designers.

To watch the video, click through here.

   

Photos by Tal Shpantzer

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