#NYFW: Carolina Herrera Fall 2015

American fashion icon Carolina Herrera had the most fluid collection this season. By that I mean that theme of fall 2015 was water. Her runway was set up for models to glide in a zig-zag pattern as if they were being pushed along a current. 

The breathtaking gowns had a combination of hand painted patterns of rippling water. There were prints of cresting waves.  Flowing waves were embroidered in contrast patterns or three-dimensional techniques. Some looks had prints of a flowing river embellished with metallic pebbles that looked like they were floating on top. There were fabric strips applied to some outfits that gave a three-dimensional effect of water running through the garment as well.

photos by Mariana Leung

Other great embellishments included shredded organza pieces that were folded and applied with a scattered bead and jewels embroidered on a bodice that gave the effect of (expensive) fallen rain sliding off a rooftop. The more whimsical water reference was a pretty variation on a polka dot print that were actually bubbles.

The color palette was very cool, with blue, gray, black and white. However, there were a few pieces with very bold red flowing through the ripples, almost like blood getting into the stream. The red took over for a few looks in edgy crocodile embossed leather.

This was a breathtaking Carolina Herrera fashion collection. I actually heard guests sigh when the evening wear began crossing the floors. Myself? I am just happy that the soundtrack wasn't running water (can you imagine 1600 people running for the NYFW port-a-potties at the same time?)

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#NYFW: Carolina Herrera Fall 2014

Prints, optical illusions, spiky beading.  Carolina Herrera's show on Monday morning at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week was one that many of my fellow photographers had been waiting all week for.

Is it the elegance? Is it because she is an American fashion icon?  It usually takes more than that to impress a bunch of jaded dudes in the photo pit.  The fall 2014 collection continued with Ms. Herrera's  streak of optical prints.  The patterns were bold and looked fantastic in long and short dresses.  Red was a big color here and quickly shaping up to be one of the biggest colors for the luxe designers of NY Fashion Week.    The bright colors in print or solid also worked for day to evening purposes, which might be exactly the lifestyle her clientele represents.  Upscale garden party by day, gala by night?  Red carpets that start when the sun is still out but airs at night on the other Coast?  Makes perfect sense.

The architectural stage set-up made for a dramatic frame around the models as they walked down the runway.  Each silhouette was modern, flattering, but still somewhat forgiving for the real woman.  I liked the beaded motifs that made their way onto some of the looks at various angles.
The models strolled down that catwalk in a vision of confidence and poise.  There are plenty of designers who will do girly or a gimmicky theme.  I can't help that I like Carolina Herrera's theme of strong women even more.

photos by David TW Leung

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Carolina Herrera Spring 2014

original photos by Mariana Leung

It's amazing how effective good old optical illusions can be.  The simple techniques of Carolina Herrera's Spring 2014 collection wowed the guests and photographer's  pit at NY Fashion Week.  The effect was layering graphic prints on sheer fabrics on top of each other so that the patterns looked like they were moving as the models walked down the catwalk.

The geometric patterns and graphic lines looked very high-tech but it was such a great, easy look.  The designer also used embroidery design sparingly.  There were cut circles and flat jewels that just added a dimensional effect to complement the existing patterns.  There was one neckline of built up floral and jewel embroidery that was more classic Herrera to please the red carpet queens.  Otherwise, these great moving stripes might be a problem on television, despite how nice they look in person.

A few looks carried huge, long statement necklaces that had a row of pendants.  They featured unrefined stones for an artsy ethnic vibe.  Shoes were two-toned satin stilettos that complemented the colors of the fabrics.

The dresses of this show were delightfully unexpected.  Now I am inspired to go out and find my childhood brainteaser books to see what else can be designed this way...

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Carolina Herrera Bridal 2014

 This has got to be one of my favorite wedding gowns of bridal week.  This Carolina Herrera dress has a beautifully sculpted skirt that is fluted in in multiple cones, giving a new look to the popular fishtail silhouette.  It reminded me of the famous clover gown of Charles James back in 1953 (I'm not that old,  I just worshiped that gown in fashion history class).  The gorgeous lace?  An illusion.  This was all hand-painted onto silk organza...

The clover fluted hem continued into a more flower shaped hem in another gown.  There were several short dresses that had dramatically shaped seaming.  If you like a menswear tailoring vibe in a feminine dress, there was a gown that was strapless, but had a lapel/jacket bodice that buttoned down the middle.

I usually don't think of Carolina Herrera as designing avant-garde fashion.  She usually represents the regal, elegant choice.  However, I believe the brides that came down this runway aisle will be leading the trends for weddings to come.

Photos by John Aquino

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Carolina Herrera Fall 2013

She's the Duchess of NY Fashion Week.  Carolina Herrera brings elegance and luxury to the prestige set.  Her Fall 2013 collection brought many shades of grey, brown, red and blue to the runway.  Fur wraps and impeccably tailored jackets enveloped ladies who were destined to lunch.  

Beautifully rendered daywear evolved into long, more colorful gowns perfect for the next charity gala.  The shoe of choice was clearly a two-toned strappy sandal in multiple colors to match the clothes.  I can't imagine a misstep in this collection, which screams American class.  

Click to see the full collection:

photos by David TW Leung

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Emmys Red Carpet Embroidery

The Emmys Red carpet reports are all over the internet. Polls for if they were hot or not, best bag, best shoes, best boobs, etc.   As a couture embroidery designer, my quickie report will report on just that.  My top 3 gowns where I liked the embroidery.  That's it.  So here they are:

Anna Paquin's Alexander McQueen polarized fashion enthusiasts, but I loved the antiqued metal paillettes and beads.  The overlapping embroidery mixed with beads created a sculpted effect that reminded me of Egyptian royalty or ancient armor.

Modern Family was the surprise upset winner for Best Comedy series.  Sophia Vergara was every bit the victor in this dazzling Carolina Herrera gown.  The embroidery was a mix of different sized sequins emanating from the center front.  The center front of the gown was encrusted with gold beads.

Emily Blunt was stunning in this Christian Dior gown.  The layers of chiffon flowed like a dream.  The asymmetrical embroidery was done by hand in a strategic, artistic layout.  It was a combination of beads, sequins and fabric appliqué that gave the effect of falling shells and pearls.

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