Trendspotting: Asian Grandparents

Who are the biggest trendsetters this season? Chinese grandparents as influencers may sound surprising, but the popularity of several style blogs has confirmed this trend beyond a doubt.

Mixed prints and geek chic?  Yep, grandparents in Chinatown have been doing this for almost a century. They weren't trying to be street style stars. As my own Mom explained, my Grandmother's love of color and pattern came from wearing cheerful clothes as a way to reflect the emotions you aspired to. Her wardrobe was ahead-of-her-time.

For an East Coast perspective, check out the blog Accidental Chinese Hipster.  For West Coast style-makers, you will find a great collection of photos at Chinatown Sartorialist. The men and women of this generation were all about practicality. Mom explained a clothing print that incorporates 10 different colors will pretty much coordinate with whatever else you own. If you read comments from the subjects of Chinatown Sartorialist, some of the fashionistas wore the outfit they did because it was a gift or happened to be the most comfortable.

Grandma, baby sis and me in the 1980s

On the hair front, there are two blogs celebrating the most embarrassing of Asian coiffure. Behold F**k Yeah, Asians with Perms and Asians with Bowl Cuts. Old yearbook photos you would hide from the public are the predecessor to the salon styling of modern hipsters now.

Sun protected, alabaster skin? Asian elders have been militant about sun protection for centuries before SPF BB creams were the industry standard.  ll hail the visor as the fashion accessory of choice.

Every child of immigrant parents or grandparents has had that moment in grade school where you were mortified by what they wore. This came from the insecurity of your efforts to fit in when they didn't dress by the narrow rules of the "cool" kids.  In reality, they were inspiring the runways of today's best designers all along.

Street photos by Andria Lo of Chinatown Sartorialist, 
Runway Photos by Mariana Leung and David Leung

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Mara Hoffman Fall 2014

 Like an Egyptian Queen, Mara Hoffman's models strode down the runway in long, draped silhouettes.  The designer is known for showing ethnic prints in modern colors at New York Fashion Week.  What I never expected to see was so many looks that were solid black or solid white.

Don't get me wrong, the majority of the outfits had patterns drawn from Egyptian motifs, Moroccan textiles and the artisans of North African.  Prints executed in black and white or a rich mix of blue tones, hot pink and even gold.  Long, regal dresses and skirts that bared arms and shoulders up top or through strategic cut-outs through the middle.  The solid black looks mixed sheer and solid or extreme textures as an alternative to Mara Hoffman's signature brights.

Jewelry was simple.  Basic gold bands that were worn at different levels of the arm.  The hair was smooth and combed down.  There was one-off sweatshirt with a tongue-in-cheek camel print that had me chuckling (maybe it will be this year's "owl" trend).

There were loose, billowing caftans and related outerwear paired with pants.  Still, all the skin exposed was a stark contrast to all of the fur and layered looks I observed on other runways.  Then again, North African winters are not nearly as snowy as Northeast winters.  Mara Hoffman was clearly giving those of us shivering in the ice lots of wishful thinking.

photos by David TW Leung

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BCBG Max Azria Pre-Fall Lookbook

West Coast based BCBG Max Azria showed a live lookbook (aka showroom) unveiling of their pre-fall collection last week.  Pre-fall is that fashion industry term that defines a collection that will unveil in the stores in the heart of summer, but wants you to think autumn from a stylistic point of view.

The design team for BCBG is based in California, so it doesn't even see the snow when they design clothing for the winter seasons of the Northeast.  So what do they do?  The designers create lots of prints, (love this label for that) which emulate warm fuzzy textures without the weight.  As you can see, some of the most successful looks are tweed-like patterns printed on ultra-light fabrics.  This works in all climates, but gives the feeling of woolly styling.  If you actually ARE wearing these looks in cold weather, you can layer them.  If you are in warm weather, it is still fine.

Big caftan cover-ups can be your cardigan in cool weather, or just a cool office interior.

My sister loves BCBG footwear.  I am increasingly observing the popularity of strappy or open-toed boots.  Again, these are the perfect straddle for warm to cool weather.  I personally like these because I have trouble wearing normal heels, and strappy boots give me the support I need to carry them off.

Of course, this is all just a prelude to the big events at NY Fashion Week coming up in two weeks!  Until then sweethearts...

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Darkly Printed at Nicole Miller Spring 2014

 This is definitely shaping up to be the season of the print.  Nicole Miller's Spring 2014 fashion show mixed pretty ribbon or sequin embroideries with wedges of colorful patterns for a stained glass window effect.

For a designer that many women used to turn to for prom dresses, the brand put out a sleek, mature sportswear collection with a bit more edge.  On a more subtle, more subconscious note though, did anyone see a tribute to Tim Burton here?  Maybe I'm crazy, but some of the asymmetrical pieced print dresses looked a lot like Sally's outfit from A Nightmare B4 Christmas.  A black leather outfit with grey stitch detail was reminiscent of Edward Scissorhands.  The black and white stripes and green wild hair?  Beetlejuice.  I can't have been the only one to pick up on this?

The hair was up, but messy.  The lipstick shade was a dark mulberry.  The shoes were often a mix of contrasting colors and hardware.

Whether you think my theory is correct or not, I have to say this was a very pretty group with a good balance of sleek leather and feminine florals with some luxury embellishments thrown in.  The crowd pleaser works for both the young rebel and the established lunching lady who keeps on trend.

So do you agree?  Do you see Tim Burton haunting this collection or am I insane?

original photos by Mariana Leung

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Custo Barcelona Spring 2013

Barcelona is the land of complex prints, at least according to designers/brother Custo and David Dalmau.  The label's New York Fashion Week show had a terrific palette of bright purples, greens, red, yellow, well, a bit of everything.  There were interesting fabric treatments and embroideries as the label is known for, including one leather, gladiator-type mini dress.  Feather and fringe gave movement to the embellishments.

In the shoe department they took chunky and platform heels to new heights.  Dainty they were not, echoing prints and colors from the clothing.  The best accessory for this season though were LEGS.  Legs were shown off in short skirts, high/low hems, leggings and skinny pants.

The mythology of the brand is that the brothers conceived the collection on a motorcycle trip.  The Southern California vibe and their psychedelic colors are a huge hit overseas, more so than stateside.  Maybe all of us uptight Yankees need to get on whatever "trip" they did...

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NY FASHION WEEK: Theia Spring 2013 Photoshoot

NY Fashion Week starts officially today, even though many designers were already entrenched in their presentations.  Theia Couture started the week with a gorgeous photo shoot of their spring 2013 collection.

While the designer went dark and strong for Fall 2012, Don O'neill's spring collection continued with the strength, but lightened it up.  The big story for this season was about the graphic painted floral prints that contain gold, solar orange, sky blue.  The designer looked to Hera, Goddess of the sky, with ferocious strength.  Beautiful embroideries were also part of the story with cerulean blue with stones and pailettes.  Even in the neutral colors, the designer used crystal embellishment with iridescent coatings that  picked up all of the colors of the prints.

While this is just a preview of the collection to come, check out our interview with the design and a behind the scenes peek at the process of a high fashion photo shoot...

Check out the final lookbook produced from this shoot here.

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NY FASHION WEEK: Mara Hoffman Fall 2012

Heading out to the the desert?  Perhaps you can find your spirit fashion animal.  Mara Hoffman was inspired by shaman gaucho cowboys for Fall 2012.  The designer known for swimwear was a natural for transitioning into cozy sportswear.  

Prints were graphic updates on Native American patterns.  The color palette sleek with black, cream, purple, muddy rose and burnt orange.  You can take her looks from the beach in summer and slip right into the long caftans and skirts without losing your state of zen.

Accessories included chunky motif necklaces and fashion interpretations of a gaucho hat.  I want to describe the collection as rustic, but it really isn't.  It may have cowboys as a theme, but the runway looks were actually very chic and cosmopolitan.

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Rich Prints at Rebecca Minkoff Fall 2012

This is one of the shows I always look forward to.  Rebecca Minkoff understands the NYC woman likes an urban edge, but sometimes wants to be girly, or occasionally ironic.  Fall 2012 was a mix of long lean pants and dresses, with a few mini skirts too.

The palette was a New Yorker's palette of black, jewel tones, reds, blues, orange. The prints were painterly, almost abstract, very saturated in color. While the looks were fitted and tailored, the fabrics were soft.

Rebecca Minkoff is most famous for her handbags. Built for a busy NYC lifestyle, purses were roomy, (even envelope clutches) and structured.

Spotted in the front row: Fern Mallis, Twilight's Nikki Reed, Abigail Breslin.

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Milly and Sperry Topsiders Party for Boys Club of New York

Bright prints for spring adorning cute dresses and cuter  shoes were launched last week. Milly by Michelle Smith collaborated on a special collection of footwear with Sperry Top-Sider.  Socialites mixed with fashion media at the launch party held at the Milly boutique.  A portion of the sales that night benefited the Boys Club of New York. 

Sperry Top-Sider is known for their casual chic with a nautical bent.  Milly is known for upscale bright colors and graphic prints.  How did they mix?  The shoes ranged from flat, sneaker silhouettes with Milly prints and shiny eyelets to rope bound platform heels in bright florals with dainty loafer lacing.

The Boys Club of New York is a non-profit organization with several clubhouses around New York City with programs to help at-risk boys grow up to be successful young men.

To donate, click through and help here.

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SAMPLE SALES! DVF, Theyskens Theory, Proenza Schouler, Carlos Falchi & More...

In NYC:
Diane Von Furstenburg 
She's an icon in her own right.  Current fall stock and samples in all the bold prints you love (along with some furry pieces) are up for grabs.  According to Racked.com and Madison Avenue Spy, the selection is big, though you'll be competing with other fashionistas for it.  Prices are $125 for jackets and dresses, $20 for phone cases, samples are $50, in general, up to 75% off retail.

WHEN: Tuesday, December 13 through Saturday, December 16

Tues 9am to 6:30pm, Wed 10am to 8pm, Thurs 10am to 7pm, Fri 9am to 5pm, Sat 10am to 3pm

WHERE: 260 5th Ave. (bet. 28th & 29th St.)

photo via racked.com

Nanette Lepore

A crusader for keeping fashion made in NYC, shopping Nanette Lepore's contemporary sportswear would just be patriotic... Holiday 2011 available just in time for the best parties:

When:Tuesday, December 13 through Wednesday, December 14. Daily 9am—7pm. 

Where: 225 West 35th St between Seventh and Eighth Aves, fourth floor (no phone)

Helmut Lang & Theyskens Theory

Sleek, avant-garde, cosmopolitan.  The uniform of fashion's  uber-cool, Helmut Lang and Olivier Theysken's capsule collection for Theory will be up to 65% off this week.

When:Thursday, December 15 through Sunday, December 18. Thurs noon—8pm, Fri 8am—8pm, Sat—Sun 10am—6pm. 

Where: 139 Fifth Ave between 20th and 21sts Sts, second floor (212-398-2777)

Proenza Schouler
One of the fastest rising designer duos this century, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez were an instant hit with models and hipsters everywhere.  Look for goodies up to 75% off:
When: Saturday, December 17, 9am—9pm. 
Where: 495 Broadway between Spring and Broome Sts, 3rd Floor


Carlos Falchi
Covetable handbags in exotic skins and leathers.  They're usually too prohibitive for me, but now that there is a sample sale of 40% - 70% off, watch out... Bring this flyer for entry.
When: Thursday, December 15 through Friday, December 16. Daily 9am—4pm. 
Where: 1450 Broadway between 40th and 41st Sts, suite 802


Zang Toi:
Have a truly glam soiree to attend this season?  You can't get more elegant than Zang Toi.  Ballgowns, the richest fabrics, these are the pieces you dream of...
When: December 13th - December 14th
Where: 30 West 57th Street, 7th Floor


 

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Toronto Fashion Week: Rachel Mara Spring 2011

           

Stripes…Narrow and nautical, rugby wide, retro variegated…They were all represented on Rachel Mara’s runway.  The designer’s Spring 2011 collection showed a range of patterns reminiscent of the 1930’s with a modern twist.  There were the stripes of course, but also demure  and oversized florals.

The Rachel Mara girl had a carefree, rebellious attitude.  The title of the collection was "Stolen", inspired classic Hollywood bank heists.  The various prints were used in transparent blouses or flirty, sexy dresses.   Blouses were breezy and light in silhouette.  They were paired with cropped skim pants or short pencil skirts.  

Accessories included antique brushed gold rope necklaces and cuffs.  Hematite and studs embellished belts.  Vintage-inspired black head pieces accented gangster-moll hairdos.  Soaring platform heels were the updated touch on footwear.  Unfortunately, many of the models did not handle this modern development well...

Rachel Mara already has fans in Sarah Jessica Parker, Halle Berry and Diana Krall.

Photos by Ritika Wahal

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