Fairy Tale Fashion at the Museum at FIT

Happy Easter Weekend my lovelies. I thought I would start it off with Manish Arora's Alice in Wonderland inspired costume at the Museum at FIT's Fairy Tale Fashion exhibit. This fantasy fashion tribute is one you don't want to miss if you are in town. It is a gorgeous mix of looks both from contemporary designers and historic costume. Some are inspired by ancient tales literally while some are more in spirit.

Alice in Wonderland's loopy dreamscape has Mad Hatters, a character driven insane from his own profession in fashion. Playing card motifs, tea parties, rabbits and a host of other characters tht inspire designers. Tim Burton's Alice in Wonderland film inspired a bunch of designers like Haider Ackerman and Alexander McQueen to create tribute ensembles for the movie.

Cinderella is a romantic story with an epic makeover. Both her "rags" stage and ballgown stage has
served as muse to many designers. In the 1970s, designer Giorgio di Sant'Angelo created a bohemian collection of layered prints and stitch details to celebrate Cinderella's rags. Many a designer created stunning ballgowns. Christian Louboutin designed the drool-worthy Cinderella shoes to coincide with Disney's Cinderella movie.


Little Red Riding Hood is a story about a girl defined by her outerwear. There were historic red hooded cloaks along with contemporary designer counterparts. The Beauty and the Beast tale also displayed historic costumes to illustrate the story of the era of the 1700s.

The Little Mermaid and many under the sea creatures were the inspiration for some of the whimsical exhibits. Seaweed and coral motif appliques embellished a Rodarte fishnet gown. Hideki Seo created an elaborate Sea Witch ensemble for the exhibition. Nature also plays into the lore of fairies and Sleeping Beauty. Woodland creatures are a part of the Snow White and Rose Red fairy tale. The exhibit pays tribute to furry pelted looks from J. Mendel, Prada's 2008 collection with James Jean fairy illustrations and Alexander McQueen's collection of dresses with insect motifs.

The Wizard of Oz is a great story to inspire fashion designers. The hero of the day are those ruby slippers. Many shoe designers have created their own version of the famous footwear. Gingham and prairie looks, sinister black and green fashion illustrate the fashion tropes of this story. The Museum at FIT hosted their own exhibit of Tonner Doll's tribute to The Wizard of Oz movie. A huge collection of designers re-imagined high fashion updates to either the Wicked Witch or Dorothy.

While some of the fairy tale fashion is pure costume fantasy. Some of the gorgeous looks were perfect for bringing magic into real life. If you want to give your sartorial day a happy ending, get yourself to thehttp://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/exhibitions/ Museum at FIT's exhibit before it ends at April 16, 2016.

Photos by Mariana Leung

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Global Fashion Capitals Presented by FIT

Do you think that fashion lives only in Paris, New York in Milan? While many top labels choose to show in these cities, there are thriving designers and brands that have a community all over the world. The Museum at FIT recently held a symposium covering global fashion capitals powering the style industry today to accompany their recent museum exhibit.

The showpiece of the event was a runway show featuring international designers. Marina Hoermanseder of Berlin, Richard Seco of Mexico City, Lisa Folawiyo of Lagos, Arzu Kaprol of Istanbul and Lie Sangbong of Seoul showed their collections on the stage.

The symposium covered the history of immigrants who worked in fashion manufacturing to international locations that inspire trends, technology, branding and culture that moves the fashion industry to global fashion bloggers influencing today's style. Students were able to learn more about working and living in the different fashion capitals from representatives who do just that.

The exhibit itself showed notable designers represented cities throughout fashion history and the eras that each city started making a global impact in influence. Think Charles Worth putting Paris on the map as one of the first named "fashion designer" as opposed to a tailor or seamstress then Coco Chanel in the 1920s pioneering sportswear for women. There was the 1930's for New York where career wear, sportswear really flourished with 7th avenue. London captured the world's attention with punk and the youthquake movement with designers like Vivienne Westwood. The 1970's was all about Italians, the 1990's Antwerp and Tokyo.

With so many cities producing great collections, designers have more opportunities and more options than ever in where they do business. I'm seeing more designers returning to hometowns or bringing their home cultures into their brands. Wherever you find inspiration, the fashion world can follow.

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Fashion Underground: The World of Susanne Bartsch

I'm aging myself; Everyone says nightlife in NYC was better back in the day. The Fashion Underground: World of Susanne Bartsch is the current exhibition at the Museum at FIT that proves it was true.

When I first came to NYC in the 1990s, it was the tail end of the rave era. Underground parties were extreme events where you were expected to wear the most creative designer outfit imaginable. As a young fashion design student, this was a challenge to be met every night you stepped out.

photos by Mariana Leung

The Queen of the clubs was Susanne Bartsch. 

Sure, you had lots of drag queens on the scene, but she was a glamorous icon for the club set. She brought London chic to Gotham. The Museum at FIT is paying tribute to the socialite's best looks. They included Haute Couture creations from designers like Rick Owens, Alexander McQueen, Thierry Mugler, The Blonds and Jean-Paul Gaultier, helping to propel their names to fame. Her patronage of wearable art also helped define up-and-coming creatives like Zaldy and Leigh Bowery to prominence.

Bartsch spoke at a symposium last week about her journey from Switzerland to London to NYC. She is still inspired by the artists and designers breaking out today. Other speakers like Hamish Bowles, Simon Doonan and Joey Arias told their tales of how she influenced everything from magazines, retail stores, gay culture and modern nightlife.

People make enjoy the minimalism of skinny jeans and a skanky top for a night out today. My old soul will always yearn for the glamour of an epic rave in a Gothic church or a corseted runway in an old train tunnel. Clubbing to me was a ride down a three-story slide wearing a spiral velvet bra and giant fur coat.

Susanne Bartsch is still throwing parties. To catch her exhibit,  you need to head to the Museum at FIT before December 5, 2015.

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Dance & Fashion at the Museum at FIT

Looking for fashion inspiration over the holiday weekend? The Museum at FIT currently has the Dance & Fashion Exhibit going on. If you were remotely moved by the ballet trend of recent years post Black Swan, or gave an exaggerated pose in slinky disco-inspired knits, this show is for you.

The first section you encounter is a collection of extraordinary ballet costumes from the 1800’s and early 1900’s. Artisans made amazing creations inspired by the fantasy aesthetics of exotic cultures. The Ballets Russes and its “Orientalism” aesthetic in turn inspired many fashion designers like Paul Poiret and Yves Saint Laurent.

Balenciaga was famously inspired by Spanish Flamenco dance. Following in his footsteps were designers like Elsa Schiaparelli and Oscar de la Renta.

The collaboration of fashion designer and dancer has a longtime history. In modern dance, Halston is often associated with the body conscious look of Martha Graham’s dance company. The looks then spilled over into high fashion and street wear. Stephen Burrows capture the disco era with dance-friendly knits. Alvin Ailey has often taken street culture and street fashion as muse in their productions.

Designers Christian Lacroix, Jean Paul Gaultier, Prabal Gurung, Giles Mendel and Olivier Theyskens have all designed for the New York City Ballet. In turn, their costume director Marc Happel has paid tribute to designers like Christian Dior and Balenciaga in his own work for the New York City Ballet. The designers behind Rodarte were well publicized for their contributions to the Darren Aronofsky film Black Swan in 2010, and tulle and ballet flats hit the streets in the seasons that followed.

The exhibit paired the punishing structure of Anna Pavlova's ballet pointe shoes alongside extreme styles from Christian Louboutin and Noritaka Tatehana that were inspired by them.

Designers’ fascination with dance is so strong that many have featured the dancers themselves on their runway, like Zang Toi’s Ballerina Babes collection and Rick Owen’s spring 2014 show featuring African American stepdancers (watch it, it's fierce).

A good fashion designer makes clothing that is comfortable, functional and beautiful. Dressing a dancer is the ultimate challenge to test those skills. Maybe all designers need to ask their fit models to bust a move. The streets are today’s runway. The runway is a stage. Maybe if all the world's a stage, all the men and women merely dancers.

Dance & Fashion at the Museum at FIT runs until January 3, 2015.

photos by Mariana Leung

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How to Become a Stylist - Secrets from the Stars

An all-star panel of celebrity stylists spoke at the Museum at FIT last night.  Moderated by Valerie Steele, the group brought June Ambrose, Mary Alice Stephenson, Freddie Leiba, Kathryn Neale and Irene Albright together to discuss the craft of being stylist.

Do you think this is a glamorous profession?  June Ambrose had her own reality show and is famous for transforming grungy hip hop artists to fashion role models.  Mary Alice Stephenson’s dream closet gets almost as much press as her work with CNN, E! and Harper’s Bazaar.  Irene Albright has created the looks for characters of many of your favorite movies and now the curator of the Albright fashionlibrary.  Freddie Leiba and Kathryn Neale have received accolades throughout their careers for dressing the stars in magazines, red carpet and onscreen.

Glamour? When host Valerie Steele asked the panel to define what being a stylist is, the answers ranged from babysitter, therapist, butler to ringmaster. 

Freddie said his stylist beginnings involved picking up pins.  Irene said she spent the first 6 months doing nothing but return clothes.  June Ambrose started in this industry as a costume maker because she initially did not have the influence to convince designers to lend her clothes.  Mary Alice Stephenson stressed the importance of paying your dues; getting an internship and making sure your dream boss understand how you can make their life easier. 

Being a stylist is such a broad title in the fashion industry.  The panel defined the differences in dressing a celebrity for a red carpet, actors for a movie, a fashion spread in a magazine.  June explained that styling a celebrity for a public appearance is about building their personal brand.  Mary Alice explained that all stylists are very protective of their clients as they are entrusted with their most intimate details and play therapist to making them look and feel their best.

An editorial spread in a magazine, the models you dress are hired to execute your vision, as opposed to the celebrity promoting themselves.  Freddie Leiba described it as the photographer is the conductor of the orchestra and the stylist is there to play and serve the composition. 

Irene Albright described dressing actors in a movie as part of creating the character themselves.  Every piece should serve some aspect to who the character or person is in the film. 

Many of the fans of this panel were here because they had hopes of becoming a designer or stylist themselves.  The panel made very clear that it takes a lot of 18 hour days, frustration and rejection, then perseverance just to survive in this business.  They were also very supportive, suggesting helpful tips like making yourself available in any free time you have, trading your volunteer services for access to learning, sending direct messages and being yourself. 

The best advice I heard to a budding stylist was Mary Alice Stephenson’s invitation to help out her wonderful Glam For Good organization.  She spoke of an upcoming event at the end of May where underprivileged ladies would get the opportunity to be dressed for the upcoming Met Gala where she could help out.  Bringing style and glamour to better the world? Genius.

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FAB Exclusive: Robert Verdi Talks Queer Style at FIT

Robert Verdi is one of the most dynamic fashion ambassadors on television today.  He contributed two major looks at the current exhibit at the Museum at F.I.T., A Queer History of Fashion.

Not just a charming personality, he received his fashion education at F.I.T. and has had a diverse career in design (jewelry, weddings, interiors, clothing...).  I know that Robert Verdi's wit has been extremely welcome.  He can make a dreaded corporate meeting bearable with his sense of humor.   Just when you think you are "over" fashion week, you might be lucky enough to run into him in front of a show and his one-liners will make it worthwhile.

The exhibit at F.I.T. itself examines style and fashion as influenced by the LGBT community throughout history.  Whether it was the aesthetic of a well tailored suit on both men and women, fetish lifestyles on edgy leather clothing or the motifs inspired by political statements.

Robert Verdi was nice enough to chat with us here at Ms. Fabulous to tell us about his work on this show:

Ms. Fabulous: Can you tell us about the contributions you made to the FIT exhibit and why you chose them?

Robert Verdi: Valerie Steele, the curator at FIT, came to my home where we culled through hundreds of pieces I have been collecting for over 20 years.

Together we decided on a few pieces that capture the unique confidence and sex appeal of "Queer Style," like the Tom Ford tie died velvet suit from the 90's.

Ms. F: Is there a certain time period in history that you identify with the most in fashion?

RV: Growing up, I was enamored of glamorous women in the 1970s, but especially Charlie's Angels. The entire disco era, the night-life, the decadence, are all elements that I connect with."

Ms. F: How does your background and lifestyle inform your personal style?

RV: My personal style is informed by lots of different ideas. But every time i look in my closet, i see the overwhelming influence of Pee-wee Herman and Dracula.

Ms. F: Which fashion designer do you think made the most significant contributions to the identity of fashion?

RV: So many designers have made valuable contributions. To exclude one would diminish the value of fashion history. Suffice it to say every designer contributes something.

Personally, I love the contributions of Martin Margiela, Rei Kawakubo, Alexander McQueen Jean Paul Gaultier, Tom Brown, and the greatest impact in recent history, that of the brilliant Rick Owens.

Ms. F: What trends or direction do you think the LGBTQ design community will take in the next few years?

RV: I think that it’s not going to be any different from how it has been. The LGBT community will continue to passionately lead all the design industries, using the two things that we have always depended on, innovation and originality."

Ms. F: If you were to dress as any style icon or fashion figure in history for Halloween, who would it be?

RV: "Jesus"

Ms. F: You are awesome as always! Thank you.

The Queer History of Fashion exhibit runs until January 4, 2014 at the Museum of F.I.T.  Admission is free!  There is also a symposium this weekend with a fantastic line-up of speakers. You can find the symposium schedule online.

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Fashion and Technology Exhibit

The FIT future of fashion graduate show is tonight.  However, what can you expect of fashion in the actual future?  The Museum at FIT presents theories to that question in their Fashion and Technology exhibit which runs until next week.

The show examines innovations in technology over the years in textile manufacturing, the sewing machine through to the possibilities of digital and 3D printing.  It also explores how the internet and social media has changed the way fashion labels market and brand themselves.

The fashion on display represent examples of how designers, independent and established have adapted and used high-tech treatments for fabric into their designs.  (The pink dress above is made of three dimensional molded shapes by Pierre Cardin in 1968, the optic patterned jumpsuit on the right is Jean Paul Gaultier's cyber graphic print from 1996).

The exhibit also shows how current culture of the times could influence day to day fashion.  The art deco movement in architecture reflected in the new use of geometric designs clothing.  The 1960's space race of politics and science manifested itself in astronaut-inspired bodysuits as if civilians were ready to head out to the moon themselves.

If you can't make it to the exhibit (it ends on May 8, 2013) then you should definitely check out the show website.  It has a thorough glossary to bone up on all the new garment technology terms.  It has a fantastic illustrated timeline of fashion technology and a great reading list to explore.  Need more? There is also a page of weblinks that leads you to more sites that cover all the futuristic fashion bytes.

photos by the Museum at FIT

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Ivy Style at The Museum at FIT

Feeling a little preppy?  Are plaids and tweeds the keystones of your wardrobe?  How did this evolve?  The Museum at FIT examines this American style in their exhibit, Ivy Style.  The preppy look had its roots, unsurprisingly, in academia.  Princeton university was one of the key Ivy League universities to initiate the trend.

Many of the iconic elements of preppy dressing came from athletics.  The white cable sweater tied around the shoulders was a tennis look.  Tweed? Saddle shoes? Polo coat? Equestrian sports.  The big contribution to modern dressing that is American sportswear really did come from sports.

Key brands that are iconic to the style are highlighted.  Not surprisingly, they would be labels like Ralph Lauren, Thom Browne, Chipp and Brooks Brothers.

The exhibition ends on January 5, 2013, so see it soon!

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Olivier Theyskens at FIT

One of the most influential designers of our current times gave an informal talk at the Museum at F.I.T. recently.  Olivier Theyskens, at a young age was appointed creative director at the House of Rochas, followed by artistic director at legendary couture house, Nina Ricci.  He currently designs a caspule collection for Theory.

Refreshingly, Mr. Theyskens was charming and matter-of-fact.  He chose to show slides of the various things, abstract and practical that inspired him.  He described his humble beginnings, creating Gothic jackets (pictured left) out of his grandparent's sheets.  On his own response to media questions about his "muse", he thinks to himself, "whoops..." at not having one prepared.  

For someone with such a lofty resume and impressive creative work, I expected a more pretentious, jaded man at the podium.  I expected a lengthy speech about his direction, work, and a lot of other self-absorbed stuff one expects of designers of his caliber.  

Instead, he described his favorite images, like the blue and mystery of one, how he was moved by the contrast of rough boots and ethereal dress of another with childlike awe and enthusiasm.   He frequently referred to his design team sitting in front of him and noted it was a collaborative effort.

I loved his response to a tough question from the audience.  Someone asked for his response to the theory that women are more qualified to design for women because they know what they need and like to wear.  He was not offended, and did not disagree.  Rather, he explained that yes, women absolutely know themselves more, but he designs from the view of what looks beautiful on them as an outside admirer. 

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Vivienne Westwood 1980's - Exhibit at FIT

She claims she never intended to go into fashion…What a thought.  One of the most original characters of the punk 70’s, flamboyant 80’s and the decadent 90’s got involved in clothing design to “help out her boyfriend”. 

Of course, the designer is Vivienne Westwood, and that boyfriend was Malcolm Maclaren, manager of the Sex Pistols.  The Museum at FIT is launching a small exhibit next Tuesday showcasing her iconic looks from the decade of the 1980’s.  That’s when dressing like a Pirate was considered chic and English tweed could actually be made edgy.

Exhibit runs from March 8, 2011 – April 2, 2011.

Museum at FIT

Photo via WWD archives

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Japan Fashion Now Exhibit at the Museum at FIT

Inspiration from the East?  Avant-garde or Super-sweet?  Gothic? Anime?  What do you think of when you think of Japanese fashion?  The current exhibit at the Museum of FIT investigates the tipping point of Japan as a fashion heavyweight in the 1980's to current streetwear influences.  Edgy designers like Comme des Garcons and Yohji Yamamoto bridged philosophy and art with functional clothing.  

There is a gallery of a futuristic Tokyo and a range of styles representing subcultures of Forest Girl, Kawaii, Gothic Lolitas and Cosplay.

The exhibit runs until January 8, 2011 and is located at 27th street and 7th avenue in NYC.

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Fashion Exhibits Paris, NYC & London - Museum Roundup

Haute Couture week in Paris has just ended. The garmento glitterati are now bracing for upcoming NY Fashion Week and London Fashion week the storms to come. I invite those of you who are not attending the shows (or have lost too much sleep preparing for them) to take a break and get some inspiration from fashion’s cultural greats. (Remember those days when you weren't burnt out and had some creative drive?)


In Paris, check out the Mme Vionnet exhibit and the upcoming tribute to Animal print and motifs at Les Arts Decoratifs (Museum of Decorative Arts). Also in the City of Lights, pay homage to the great Yves St. Laurent at the Petit Palais.



In New York, admire "American Beauty" at the Museum at FIT. This exhibit explores the "philosophy of beauty" and how it applies to the craft of dressmaking by American fashion designers. Also at the museum, check out "Scandals, Sandals & Lady Slippers" for all the foot fetishists out there. Over at the Cooper Hewitt Museum, the work of the Mulleavy sisters is on display in a retrospective of the Rodarte Label.



In London, look for Grace Kelly: Style Icon at the Victoria and Albert Museum. After admiring the past, look ahead to Future Fashion Now, an exhibit of the graduating designers of the Royal College of Art. At the Fashion and Textile Museum, relive London's cultural revolution with the Foale & Tuffin: Made in England exhibit.

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