Met Gala Exhibit: In America An Anthology of Fashion

 

What is American fashion? The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute has been exploring what that means since its inception. Like many museums, many fashion exhibits have been a celebration of the elite paying tribute to themselves. That has also been my top criticism for exhibits of recent years like China: Through the Looking Glass and Punk:Chaos to Couture.

I was pleasantly surprised at In America: An Anthology of Fashion. The show was a series of vignettes curated by successful directors like Sophia Coppola, Chloe Zhao, and Regina King. Many of the vignettes highlighted accomplished dressmakers (before they were called designers) of color who created some of the most famous garments in American history. What do they usually have in common? They were women of color, who were rarely recognized publicly or treated with disrespect.

Ann Lowe, who only in recent years had her name celebrated, was the go-to maker of Jackie O’s famous wedding gown and counted high society’s leading brides and debutantes as clients. However, Jacqueline Onassis, when asked who made her dress, would callously just say “a colored dressmaker”.

Mary Todd Lincoln’s inaugural gown was made by Elizabeth Keckley, who was once a slave, then a trusted companion in the White House, then an author and activist. Fannie Criss Payne was also featured. She was a Virginia modiste who turned to dressmaking because it was one of the few businesses a woman of color could legally start in the late 1800s. 

It wasn't all dark history though. The most joyous vignette was the dancing, floating mannequins Tom Ford curated depiction of the Battle of Versailles. This 1973 moment in fashion history where American designers traveled to France to declare themselves a design force to be recognized on an international scale. Designers Bill Blass, Stephen Burrows, Halston, Anne Klein, and Oscar de la Renta brought models and collections in tow to show the world that Europe did NOT have a lock on style. The event was recently dramatized in Netflix's Halston series starring Ewan Mcgregor.

While the fashion world as a whole is far from progressive. Seeing the talent involved (both as exhibit and curator) gives me hope that it is inching forward, however slowly. Giving credit where it was due, centuries later, at least is a start.

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Jacqueline de Ribes The Art of Style

I treated myself to a morning with the latest fashion exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Jacqueline de Ribes: The Art of Style was an interesting study of an actual Haute Couture customer and designer who actually designs for herself.

Many of the big costume institute exhibit at the Met is a retrospective around a theme or designer. It is celebrated for the artistic merit, detached from human beings who wear it. This was one of the first exhibits that showed the relationship between the designer and client.

Jacqueline de Ribes was a countess and celebrated style icon. Leading couturiers of the 1960s like Yves Saint-Laurent, Valentino, Guy Laroche, Christian Dior and Emanuel Ungaro had a working relationship with her. Seeing her archives demonstrated how a customer buys from a designer at this level. She doesn't always buy the looks straight from the runway, she might collaborate with the designer to tweak it like remove the sleeves, order it in different colors, re-order pieces from past seasons. When each piece is handmade for you at this price point, designers are accommodating.

Countess de Ribes wasn't going for the trendiest look. She preferred timeless flattering outfits. She loved sorbet bright colors, but also classic black and white for the evening. She became a fashion designer herself, clearly learning from the couturiers she patronized. Her own aesthetic was a combination of beautiful fabric drape and expert tailoring to the body. Each of her designs had a special detail that was the focus of the look. In observing the ensembles throughout the exhibit you can see these details in both her own work and the pieces she chose for herself from others.

My favorite room was the one hosting three masquerade ball costumes. As only a countess could, the elaborate looks were cobbled together with chopped up Haute Couture pieces, fabrics and trinkets from discount jobbers and upcycled into fabulous period piece fantasy gowns.

If you have ever wanted to imagine yourself as an aristocrat with the most fashionable life ever, the Jacqueline de Ribes The Art of Style exhibit might be the closest you'll get to that experience. Enjoy it until February 21, 2016.

Check out The Top Fashion Exhibits Headed to Museums
by Ms. Fabulous at Mode

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Charles James, Beyond Fashion

What makes Charles James the most respected technician and designer of fashion?  The Metropolitan Museum of Art aims to explain this with their new exhibit, Charles James, Beyond Fashion.

While non-fashion fans may not be aware of his name and work as much as mega-brands like Chanel or Prada, anyone in the design field has probably studied his creations as a master class.  You may have heard clothing being described as "architectural" and missed the connection.  Looking at a Charles James dress, this is where you finally understand how a garment can resemble a scientifically constructed building.

The designer is most famous for his clover gowns created for special clients in his 40 year career, having first debuted in 1953.  The signature look is the way that the skirt drapes into a shape resembling a four-leaf clover.  For those of you who have never draped a soft, delicate, two dimensional fabric to cover a three-dimensional body, it might be impossible to understand what a feat of engineering this is.  As a fashion student, the legend was that these gowns were so impeccably constructed, they stood up on their own.

While I have seen many of these pieces in previous exhibits over the past 20 years, what was impressive to me about this show was the high-tech tools used to educate the viewer on the genius of Charles James.  There were large screens programmed next to each gown on the first floor gallery.  The screens displayed intricate 3D animations of each layer and pattern piece that went into each dress.
You might see each layer of horsehair, satin, lace, tulle and what their flat piece looked like (much like a Roschach test) and how it was draped and sewn into place to create the fully dimensional garment.  Robotic arms highlighted each area on the gown represented by the screen.  On the yellow satin lace gown (top photo) lace inserts were even lit from within to demonstrate its sheerness.  It also showed that in addition to the masterful shape of the lace on that skirt, there were hand-cut and stitched lace motifs added on top of the gown to give a more artistic layout and texture.

While the creativity or style sense of Charles James was undisputed. He saw himself as a problem solver and teacher.  The scrapbooks and studio part of the exhibit indicated he analyzed more effective ways to fit the human body, attempting to re-invent the modern dress form.

He was passionate about construction, innovative seaming, circle-cut gowns.  Many of his looks are iconic and never duplicated.  Some of his biomorphic designs were well ahead of their time, influencing other designers like Christian Dior, Zac Posen and Alexander McQueen.

Make sure to catch Charles James, Beyond Fashion at the Metropolitan Museum of Art before August 10, 2014.
photos by Mariana Leung

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Jean Paul Gaultier: Sidewalk to the Catwalk

Disturbing, provocative, delightful.  All of the above and more was found at the Brooklyn Museum's The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk exhibit.

Gaultier created some of the most iconic looks of my generation.  Everyone recognizes the cone cup corsets of Madonna's Blond Ambition Tour .  Fashion fans have marveled at the varied inspirations and theatrical runway shows over the years.

The exhibit itself was not your typical, institutional retrospective you would expect from a museum.  Upon entering the first gallery, you are startled when you gaze at the mannequins and find them blinking or even glaring back at you.  The "Virgins" collection had mannequins singing, wearing dresses inspired by religious icons.  The mermaids on the other side were adorned in mother of pearl and golden filigree.

The designer's mastery of intimate and apparel were displayed in a long dark corridor on spinning dress forms so you could see the painstaking details that went into each and every piece.

The gallery of punk style had elaborate creations in denim and tartan.  A moving runway displayed cheeky looks like a cancan dress that was painted with legs on the interior, but looked like a more conservative white ruffled dress on the outside.  The punk mannequins could make you jump, whispering that they were "behind you" as you observed other parts of the room.

Gorgeous looks worn by the likes of singers like Beth Ditto were part of a gallery that showed the diversity of age, body shape and ethnicity that the designer liked to portray on the runway.  Another room showed the global influences of design that made their way to his shows.  One of the most impressive looks in this room was the Asian-inspired look of his first collection that he put together with straw placements from the local market before he had the money to fund more expensive fabrics.

While Jean Paul Gaultier clearly took craftmanship and design very seriously, his own persona was another matter.  A talking mannequin of himself hosted the exhibit and the attitude of his catwalks always showed a sense of fun.  Photographs or interviews with him always portrayed a winking sensibility that I enjoyed.

This exhibit is a must-see and one of my favorites in recent years.  Get yourself to the Brooklyn Museum before February 23, 2014!

exhibit photographs by Mariana Leung

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Jean Paul Gaultier at the Brooklyn Museum

He was the hottest designer of my 1990's.  Starting tomorrow, the Brooklyn Museum presents The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From Sidewalk to Catwalk.  I am absolutely excited about this, as I was unable to see the exhibit in Montreal.

The Brooklyn Museum is the only American East Coast venue for this show.  It will feature sketches, Haute Couture, documentaries and all sorts of artifacts of his creative process and wicked humor.  He defined Madonna's look of the 90's as well as contributing subversive looks for movies.

For a taste of what's to come, check out this arty video from Mr. Gaultier welcoming you to Brooklyn..

October 25, 2013–February 23, 2014

Morris A. and Meyer Schapiro Wing and 

Iris and B. Gerald Cantor Gallery, 5th Floor

photos from the exhibit video

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Christian Louboutin - 20 Years of Design, Artistry and Magic

Do you ever dream of being in a gorgeous art deco building surrounded by Christian Louboutin shoes?  The Design Exchange in Toronto has an epic exhibit celebrating 20 Years of Design, Artistry and Magic from legendary shoe designer Christian Louboutin.

The show is divided into sections highlighting his atelier and design studio, travel, shoe construction, boots, fetish and the central showpiece, a stage featuring his most flamboyant designs, hologram of Dita Von Teese performing striptease in honor of his shoes and velvet lounge all in the shape of his signature red sole.

This was one of the sexiest exhibits I have ever seen.  The lighting was low with a red glow.  The plush couch in front of the stage had an intimate illicit vibe.  The shoe silhouettes themselves were provocative.  The fetish themed room was encased in black velvet curtains with large, black and white erotica images to accompany the not-for-every day wear themed shoes.

Besides the spectacle, I was thrilled to learn more about the man and his inspiration.  The first spark of his shoe obsession came when he viewed a warning sign in front of the Museum of Oceanic and African Art that was of a stiletto heel with a bright red mark crossing it out.  It was to caution against high heels leaving scuff marks on a parquet floor, but it was the first hint of the forbidden nature of a sexy shoe.

The designer grew up watching classic Hollywood icons like Marlene Dietrich and Marilyn Monroe.  His love of theatricality really blossomed after watching showgirls perform in towering heels from the wings of the Folies Bergere.  

Louboutin's sense of humor definitely shows through in many of his designs, like an animal paw styled shoe or whimsical materials and motifs.  There was a wall of amazing one-of-a-kind shoes from materials like fish skin or beer cans.  Architecture played a great deal in inspiring the construction of other shoes.

Key moments were noted like his collaboration with Yves Saint-Laurent, which was the first time the couturier offered a collection that named a co-designer.  His most popular shoe, the Pigalle is already an icon and Louboutin offers thoughts on why he thinks it succeeded.  He realizes that it's simplicity makes it possible for any woman to adopt the style into her own to elevate whatever outfit she is wearing.  In another part of the exhibit, he had notes on what he learned from women about the low shape of the throat of his shoes.  Women had complained it exposed too much of the foot, which he didn't understand, as women wore sandals and thongs.  He came to realize that the shape made wearers feel like they were exposing cleavage in the same vein as their behind or decollete in a psychological sense.

You could examine his creative process in seeing his swatch books, catalogs, sketches and a room dedicated to the different stages of how a shoe is put together.  The design included the initial sketch, patterns, shoe last and stitching.

Which Louboutin design is your favorite? What does your fantasy shoe style look like?

The exhibit runs until September 15, 2013.  If you can't make the show, check out more images here.

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Judith Leiber - Artisan to Fashion Icon

The patron saint of luxury handbags, the Judith Leiber Museum in East Hampton celebrates her designs in an exhibit that spans the 1960's to 2004.  She was a Holocaust survivor who learned her artisan handbag making skills in Hungary.

With a very supportive husband, Judith Leiber brought her passion and skills to America, also with a goal of employing women in the trade.  Many of her iconic bags were made in New York.  The classic minaudieres, clutches and accessories have been seen on almost every First Lady in the past few decades as well as countless celebrities.

The museum of a real gem in the woods in East Hampton, Long Island.  The location is part of their residence and also houses husband Gerson's artwork.  There is a modest case on the first floor that houses some of her many fashion awards.  The second floor contains a petite silver and crystal encrusted handbag that I was told was her absolute favorite among the many thousands of her career.  It was the first bag she ever made in metal and crystals.

Back when I was designing for an embroidery house full-time, the Judith Leiber studio used several of my
designs in the collection, but this was already after the company had already been sold.

In addition to the handbags and artwork on display, there is a huge collection of Chinese artwork that the Leibers are fond of collecting.  You can see this influence clearly in the shapes and motifs that were in Ms. Leiber's work from the 1980's onward.

If you catch a last weekend out in the Hamptons, definitely check this fashion exhibit out!  For more information, take a look at their website here.

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Impressionism, Fashion and Modernity

A new exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art opened yesterday that features a beautiful mix of artwork, period costume and photographs. Impressionism, Fashion and Modernity is a comprehensive study of the role fashion played in impressionist artist's depiction of modern life.

The mid to late 1880's marked the debut of the department store and ready-to-wear.  Fashion magazines were also becoming more and more popular.  Stylish society wanted to show off and be documented as trendsetters.  The museum shows iconic pieces from fine artists like Monet's Luncheon in the Grass and  Renoir's The Loge.  These are artists that I had always appreciated for impressionism, but I never thought of them in a 'fashion' context.  Seeing this exhibit, I realized (just like today) the depiction of people in the most current fashions was one of the most effective ways to demonstrate the modernity of the times.  

I am a new fan of portraitist James Tissot whose work depicting society clients resulted in gorgeous paintings of daily life (of the rich).  

As for the fashion in the exhibit, they were broken down into rooms depicting airy white dresses, or mourning dresses in black of elaborate lace.  Soutache embroidery was popular at a time, menswear, corsets, accessories.  Elaborate dresses worn in the evening like premier couturiers, Charles Worth were also displayed.  

This is one of the best exhibits that truly show blend the mix of fine art and fashion together and one you need to check out!  Exhibit ends May 27, 2013.

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Fortuny y Madrazo Exhibit

Mariano Fortuny came from a prominent artistic family in Spain.  His most famous contributions to fashion history were his revolutionary pleated fabrics and Delphos dresses.  He also brought in the exotic references from Asia, Africa and multi-cultural muses of his travels into luxury dressing.

A new exhibit at the Queen Sofia Spanish Institute examines Fortuny's work and inspiration.  Curated by Oscar de la Renta, the show shows a large range of his fashion designs, but also his paintings, photography and etchings.  There are photographs that Fortuny took in Greece and Morocco, as well as self portraits and one of his studio.  He was also ahead of his time in photographing his clothing designs on models from many different angles, so viewers could have a virtual 360 degree view like a modern lookbook.

He pioneered the hand pleating technique of his signature fabric (that no one has yet to replicate).  The light, airy Delphos dress was a rebel against the corseted silhouettes of recent past, and he weighted the dress down to hold its shape with glass beads.  He had a partner in his wife Henrietta, who was also an accomplished dressmaker and artist on his beautiful textile designs.  He created his own dyes and pigments for his artwork, some of which were marketed with his name.

I am floored (and envious) of Mariano Fortuny's rich life of such artistic creativity.  Besides painting, photography, textile and fashion design, he also was a theater and lighting designer... His family legacy had generations of artistic accomplishment that led to him, his family peers were the greatest artists of the century.  Being able to work with his wife, living in a gorgeous palazzo in Venice...Sounds heavenly doesn't it?   You must check out this exhibit!

Fortuny y Madrazo: An Artistic Legacy

Queen Sofia Spanish Institute

684 Park Avenue, New York NY 10065

November 30, 2012 - March 30, 2012

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CHANEL: The Little Black Jacket Exhibit

Rarely can a single garment become an icon onto itself.  Chanel's Little Black Jacket is one of those exceptions.  Carine Roitfield and Karl Lagerfeld collaborated on a series of photographs with top international style icons in their own right, like Sarah Jessica Parker, Yoko Ono and Daphne Guinness. 

The photographs have a romantic, art quality to them.  In dramatic black and white, they show the differences in construction, styling and the personality of the model posing in them. 

What kind of work goes into a little black jacket from Chanel?  Check out this video for some insight:

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For more information, check out their site.

Saturday, June 8 - 15, 12 PM - 7 PM

18 Wooster Street, NYC Map

Photos courtesy of Little Black Jacket Website

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Vivienne Westwood 1980's - Exhibit at FIT

She claims she never intended to go into fashion…What a thought.  One of the most original characters of the punk 70’s, flamboyant 80’s and the decadent 90’s got involved in clothing design to “help out her boyfriend”. 

Of course, the designer is Vivienne Westwood, and that boyfriend was Malcolm Maclaren, manager of the Sex Pistols.  The Museum at FIT is launching a small exhibit next Tuesday showcasing her iconic looks from the decade of the 1980’s.  That’s when dressing like a Pirate was considered chic and English tweed could actually be made edgy.

Exhibit runs from March 8, 2011 – April 2, 2011.

Museum at FIT

Photo via WWD archives

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Brooklyn Fashion: American High Style Hands On

In Brooklyn, style and culture is a hands-on event. The Brooklyn Museum has a fantastic exhibit of American High Style: Fashioning a National Collection. It features the works of prominent American designers in our history as well as International designers that had an influence on how Americans dressed.
Etsy, online champion of artists everywhere, is collaborating with the museum Saturday for a full day of fashion design events. The events start with a community crochet project, leading to a gallery tour of the exhibit. A panel discussion with fashion editors in the afternoon will elaborate on how Brooklyn design reflects the cultural, ethnic an international trends of the community. The third floor will house a showcase of Brooklyn designers and top graduates of the Pratt Fashion program. Complete event details here.

Dress and photo by naKIMuli. Dress by Adrian, photo from Brooklyn Museum

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