WildFox Fall 2015 - La Dolce Vita

Gelato! Pasta! Italia! The Los Angeles-based knitwear brand Wildfox Couture took us all on a getaway to Italy for their Fall 2015 presentation. Retro slogans like "Kiss Me I'm Italian" and "Italians Do It Better" were printed on over-sized sweaters.

The location for the event was set in the classic restaurant in Little Italy, Il Cortile. The run of show program for the different looks was set up in a menu. The collections were set up into "Pastel Gelato Girls" "Vineyard Girls" and "Restaurant Girls". With Wildfox Couture having a vintage slant, you could see the pretty red gingham prints like a trattoria tablecloth (plus gingham is a HOT trend for fall), casually wrapped sweater like La Dolce Vita or more rugged overalls of someone about to work the vineyard. Of course, everything had a feminine touch with vintage lace and tongue-in-cheek attitude.

photos by Mariana Leung

Models had smoky eyes makeup and sexy loose waves and blown out hair like they just woke up out of bed. I was hoping they would make an entrance on a moped.

Guests were treated to Italian wine tastings and nibbles like meatballs, fresh mozzarella crostini and pizza. I vamped it out at the photo booth with scenic Italian backdrop and Italian phrase speech bubbles. Some danced to IT DJ's the Misshapes. 

It's not hard to see how the romance of Italy inspired design director Kimberley Gordon. I just watched the movie Under the Tuscan Sun (again), reminding me of my honeymoon in the area.

Ciao Wildfox Couture!

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#NYFW: FTL MODA Loving You Fall 2015

The model casting for the FTL MODA show last night wins the award for most bad-ass. The Italian organization that promotes fashion production in Italy worked with London's Models of Diversity to cast physically challenged models for its "Loving You" finale collection. The agency was formed to give opportunities to disabled models all across Europe.

The collective fashion show featured designers from all over the world but were committed to luxury Italian manufacturing. Simply Vermeulen featured gorgeous silk prints. Rozalia Bot featured draped silks and bold floral embroidery. Landi Accessories was a leather bag company, so they sent their collection down the runway using the models as a literal canvas by splashing their bodies with white paint. Antonio Urzi sent out a spectacular metallic, alien-like collection that had hints of Paco Rabanna and Martian uniforms? It's no surprise that Lady Gaga and Rihanna are already clients.

The photographer's pit certainly appreciated the model casting, as amputees and beauties in wheelchairs were sincerely cheered in support. Graceful models who could spin their way around a wheelchair were able to extend shapely legs to show off gorgeous fabric prints. I love that the favorite models were the ones who could really pull off the fierce attitude to match the outfit and wild makeup. 

I know that diversity has been a big push this season from the CFDA. So far this season, I can't say that I have seen much improvement as far ethnicity, age or size diversity. I AM happy to see that FTL MODA made a big statement to prove that isn't true for models facing physical challenges. I'm even more gratified to see this isn't the first fashion show where I have seen models of this demographic.  The VAWK show in Toronto, blogger Jillian Mercado starring in Diesel ads and AHS star Jamie Brewer making her debut at NYFW are a part of what I hope isn't merely a trend. 

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The Hat Between Art and Extravaganza

Is there a fashion accessory that lends itself to sculpture better than a chapeau? The Palazzo Pitti in Florence is home to a beautiful exhibit celebrating The Hat Between Art and Extravaganza.  On display are wearable works of art made by designers like Philip Treacy, Christian Dior, Prada, Chanel, Stephen Jones along with a handful of independent Italian artisans.

The museum is housed in a Rennaisance palace that was once home to the royal Medici family.  Caterina Chiarelli curated this costume gallery show, the first to encompass a single category of fashion item.  The 179 hats were chosen from the over 1000 item collection in storage at the Palazzo.  The show also presents original sketches and fashion illustrations by the creators.  Pieces in the exhibit include contemporary designs and vintage pieces from the early part of the last century.

The mannequins resemble marble pedestals to the hand crafted sculptures above.  With a hat, you can create any shape, use any material.  You can build a soaring piece up and away from the head or work the shape to frame it instead.  As an artistic medium in fashion, you don't need to worry about fit and barely concern yourself with function with a hat.

It is a shame that in America, mainstream culture doesn't really support such millinery displays except at the Kentucky Derby or New York City's Easter Parade.  The English make a spectator sport of wearing couture hats, something I wish we could bring to Hollywood red carpet culture.  The addition of a spiraling headpiece at the Academy Awards would really kick things up a notch.

The Hat Between Art and Extravaganza exhibit at the Palazzo Pitti will be ongoing until May 18, 2014.
Photos courtesy of cappelloinmostra.it

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