Trendspotting: Scuba Evolution

I have spent my first days at the beach. I watched surfers and plan on doing some scuba diving later  this summer. Clearly, the wetsuit inspiration has attracted many fashion designers in recent seasons as I keep seeing the aquatic staple hit the runways.  Here is how scuba chic has evolved...

The first time I saw neoprene interpreted for street fashion was at Parsons. One of my teachers invited a former student to describe her first job out of school, designing for  Donna Karan.  She showed us her sketchbook which included early versions of a 1994 dress which became an iconic look for the label. The scuba dress was immortalized in the book, Fifty Years of Fashion: New Look to Now:

Wetsuit-inspired fashion popped up in the resort collections of many designers in 2012. Herve Leger updated their signature bandage dress look to emulate the seams of a wetsuit. Derek Lam took the color blocking look of wetsuits and designed a graphic collection around it.  Michael Kors took the traditional neoprene and made it a dress.

For 2013, designers have quickly brought this look further into the mainstream by treating the neoprene fabric itself, (see first photo). Cynthia Rowley, a surfer herself, created some terrific dresses and top using digital printing on neoprene.  At her Montauk store, there are lace prints, jewel and botanical prints that I loved. In turn, she brought high fashion into surfing gear. She offered a special collection of functional wetsuits with her trendy clothing prints. Designer Byron Lars created an elegant Fall 2013 collection bonding brocade and glen plaids to neoprene to use the bright color as a pop lining or unexpected texture inside traditional fabric.  He also used laser cutting to create flattering shapes of applique on the dresses.  He also relied on supportive nature of the fabric to create a sexy silhouette.

For the multi-tasking gal, it's great to know you hit the runway or the ocean and never have to change!

Photos from Nick Verreros, Irving Solero, Mariana Leung

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Ten Ways to Green Your Closet

Earth Day is coming up on Sunday.  It started in 1970 during a time of anti-war sentiment and concerns about the environment.  Sad to say, those concerns are just as prominent today as they were back then.

Historically, the environment hasn’t been a priority among the fashion set.  The luxury industry is forever linked to conspicuous consumption.   That said, designers today are becoming more eco-conscious.  Zac Posen, Lauren Bush, Derek Lam and Behnaz Sarafpour among others gathered in Manhattan to support Clean By Design, an initiative with the Council of Fashion Designers of America with Vogue Magazine that aims to reduce the negative impact fashion has on the environment.  The initiative wants to educate fashion designers. 

The current state of pollution was a major inspiration in the designs at Qinghai Design School’s graduating class for Shanghai Fashion Week.  Outfits included turtlenecks that converted into facial protection and color coordinated face masks.

So what can YOU do to green your own wardrobe?

1)  Be a locavore.  Buying food from local sources has gained momentum in recent years.  Apply the same principles to clothes.  Support designers like Nanette Lepore who manufacture domestically, which provides employment to the local economy or designers from your home town.  Items that don’t need to be shipped via boat or plane obviously have a smaller carbon footprint.

2    2) Buy vintage.  Tailoring, construction and design details rocked in decades past.  Television shows like Mad Men have made wardrobes the real star.  Buy the real thing from great vintage shops or find a bargain at reputable thrift stores like Salvation Army.  Believe or not, they are a stylist’s secret weapon and actually partner with a lot of high fashion sources to manage their chic offerings.

3   3)    Recycle to upcycle. If you find that great vintage or thrift find, perfect.  If not, get creative and transform a castoff into something fabulous.  Need ideas? Great sites like Threadbanger  have a lot of DIY instructions.  Not crafty? Seek out designers who do it for you.  BabySteinberg out of Canada transforms garbage into couture creations.  Designer  Christopher Raeburn  updates older pieces for the modern hipster.

   

     4) Style swap.  Broke?  Clothing swaps around the country are a hit.  Find your fashion soulmate and trade your favorites for new favorites.  Find some in your hometown with swap groups on Meetup.com.

5      5)     Eco-friendly fabrics. Clothing made from green materials aren't the granola, harsh fabrics of the early days.  Bamboo knits come in amazing color palettes and are super soft.  Hemp silk bridal gowns have a luxurious look and texture.  Warm fleece made from discarded water bottles help reduce a bit of the landfills.  Lyocell, tencel and other new plant-based fabrics are gaining popularity.  Technology is constantly bringing new materials to the industry as well.  Learn more about these at Ecouterre.com.  

5   6) Planet-friendly accessories.  There are a huge range of accessories that can be made from eco-friendly materials that might not work in clothing.  Nahui Ollin’s bags made from candy wrappers have been seen on the arms of hipsters, television stars and fashion icons.  Vegetable tagua is a great alternative to make beads.  Craft fairs are full of jewelry made from everything from soda can tabs, vintage book covers to scarves felted from old clothing.  The handbag design competitionawards top prizes to Best Green Handbag and Best Socially Responsible Handbags, proving that style with a conscious can also be super-chic. 

  

     7) Pass on packaging.  I know part of the thrill of the shopping experience is the tissue paper, glossy bag and pretty box.  Truthfully, the pleasure of that only lasts a few seconds.  Packaging costs a lot of money to produce and has been factored in to the cost of your item.  Taking your goods home in your fabulous handbag is more glamorous and creates a lot less garbage.

     8)     Multi-task your items.  Put your stylist skills to use.  Find items that can be worn in different ways…Imagine a dress that can be worn as a top, cardigan, tunic and skirt, then folds into a bag.  Look for convertible garments that are designed to be worn different ways so you have several styles to choose from.  We like the 5 in 1 dress from Thieves Boutique. This also makes packing for a trip a breeze!

9   9) Buy better, not more.  Invest in better pieces.  Having a ton of cheap, crappy clothes doesn't impress anyone.  What’s more, cheaply made mass market duds are more likely to be made at factories with less standards for the environment, worker safety and quality.  

1. 10)   Support good companies.  Research and buy goods from companies that you know to have good practices.  Eileen Fisher  produces a pretty Eco collection with their own employees as models.  At their headquarters, they practice every day polices like a central garbage disposal for the floor that encourages employees to produce less waste if they have to travel to get rid of it.

Happy Earth Day!

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Shop to Help Japan - Designers Save For Tsunami

In times of need, the fashion community gets together to help those who require it most.  Designers and retailers across the board have banded together to produce fundraising events.  Others have donated product for sale with the proceeds going to Tsunami victims like H & M and Uniqlo.  Shopping sites like Ideeli and Gilt have created portals to donate directly.

United Bamboo, Philip Lim body held sample sales to raise aid money.  Theory set up drop boxes for direct donations of items.

If you want to shop for a cause, some designers created a specially-designed product to help. Rebecca Minkoff is donating $100 of each red handbag sold to the Red Cross.  Polo Ralph Lauren is selling a special edition polo where the proceeds will benefit the United Way.  Lady Gaga's website is selling "We Pray for  Japan" wristbands.

The BIG shopping event is coming up from Fashion Girls for Japan.  Over 60 NY designers like Marc Jacobs, Alexander Wang, Alice + Olivia, Derek Lam, Richard Chai, Diane Von Furstenburg (just to name a few) will have rolling racks of goodies to be sold to benefit the American Red Cross.  The event takes places this Saturday and Sunday at the Bowery Hotel (335 Bowery Street, NYC).

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