Dennis Basso Fall 2017

A touch of mink this season? How many of you were caught off-guard with March snowstorms? Designer Dennis Basso had everyone covered with a mix of breezy gowns in organza and georgette, but his signature fur coats were on hand at his NY Fashion Week Fall 2017 runway.

Dennis Basso is a heritage brand at this point. Ladies who lunch, New York's privileged class have been fawning over him for over three decades at this point. While he has his long term clients seduced, he is making a (sartorial) play for their daughters as well. Tiffany Trump was sitting front row of this runway. Long, relaxed dresses had a contemporary vibe with fully luxurious fabrications. My favorite was the compass, and map inspired gown with embroidered sheer land masses.

The color palette was minimal. Warm, neutral shades of brown, beige, cream as a tonal complement to the natural shades of luxurious fur on the catwalk. While the big fur coats may still be favored for Mom, there was a young gateway accessory of on-trend chokers made of fur on the models.

Politics and social commentary played a part in many of the Fall 2017 shows at NYFW this time around. Some were overt, some more subtle. Tiffany Trump was a new face on the scene at several shows I attended. She looked to be warmly welcomed by editors at Dennis Basso, but I was sad to hear she might have been rudely treated at another show.

Trust me, I am NOT a fan of Donald Trump or his administration so far. However, his daughter, often the rebellious one, is not her father. She is a young woman who is supporting fashion designers at a time when any support should be appreciated. While Dennis Basso is well established, she also attended the shows of designers who were up-and-coming and could use the promotional help. I also saw her at the Taoray Wang show, a Chinese designer, still new to the American scene. Trump wore Wang's work to the Presidential inauguration even though it was probably not politically correct with her father's cronies because she chose design over their BS.

 I can't stand Mean Girl BS in the fashion industry, it's tough enough out there. I am happy to hear that Whoopi Goldberg, also not a Donald fan, extended a friendly invitation when she saw Trump being shunned. The fashion industry is already depicted as shallow and snobbish. Editors, designers, all fashion professionals should be taking the high road and conduct themselves with class. You don't have to invite the offending person into your home, but at least treat others with the dignity and respect you would hope they would treat you with.

Dennis Basso may cater to the elite, but the beauty of his work can be appreciated by all. The runway looks of his Fall 2017 collection were not stuffy but sophisticated. The dresses were sleek and sexy, but you could cocoon yourself in a big warm coat when a snowstorm hits.

all photos by Mariana Leung

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FENDI Made to Measure Fur

In the heat of the summer, can you imagine putting on a fur?  You might be inspired if you were treated to a custom crafted fur from Fendi.  Luxurious fur jackets, some blended with glittering tulle hung in the store’s top floor for clients to choose from.

Artisans from Rome were flown in to the Fendi boutique on Fifth Avenue.  Stefania Dialfonso, Conchetta Chiaverini and Antonio Mariella brought their experienced hands to work on made to measure garments and let the MsFAB team witness the process.

After a client chooses their style, their measurements are taken.  A paper pattern is created from the individual measurements as the base of the garment. 

Each fur pelt is carefully selected for quality, color, suitability.  Besides the pre-treated dying, the piece then needs to be wet, then stretched.  I watched Mr. Mariella carefully pin the edges of the pelt at every quarter of an inch to stabilize the piece.  After that process, I watched as he meticulously drew lines on the skin with finite precision.  The next process was to score the pelt, (he noted that one had to be very careful to score the skin, but not actually to fur, so as not to damage the surface fur itself).  This was an extremely delicate process, as one slip would render a very expensive piece useless.  This was only a small part of the entire garment.

The finished garment, depending on the style could take over ten artisans to work on it, and over forty days to complete. 

The skills of these experts came from experience and hard work.  Many of their procedures are never taught in fashion schools.  The obvious pride in their product showed through the beauty of the works in process.

Many people can become ‘fans’ of a designer label.  Some find prestige in the price tag alone.  Now, when you purchase a couture creation, you know that it was investment in workmanship. 

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