Zang Toi Fall/Winter 2025

Zang Toi invited everyone at NYFW to board the Orient Express. The backdrop referenced the legendary train, and the collection evoked the romantic old-school art of slow, luxurious travel around the globe. The runway show was intimate, elegant, and refined, reminding me of the sophisticated salons of yesteryear.

The key colors were intense sapphire blue, jet black, and emerald green. Texturally, there is a lot of shine in the leather, silk, shimmery embroidery, or jeweled details. Zang Toi uses the most luxurious Loro Piana cashmere and silk velvet, so the customer experience of ordering a gala piece from this collection must feel like being fitted like an exotic royal. The difference is that Zang Toi is one of the few designers who make pieces in-house in New York City. 

One motif I particularly loved was the jeweled phoenix. Symbolically, the phoenix in Asian culture represents the feminine, good fortune, and harmony. In other cultures, she represents strength, fire, perseverance, and rebirth after an arduous trial—all empowering messages we need right now.

In a time of turbulent history, it was a treat to escape to faraway locales through fashion. The best collections will do that. 

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Harlem's Fashion Row Collaboration with Byron Lars, Krystal A. Phillips on HSN

Are you ready for "sweater weather"? I bought my warm-weather favorites from Harlem's Fashion Row in collaboration with HSN. I love that the size range goes up to 3X, so my fashion friends of all shapes can indulge in this one. Perrenial Ms. Fabulous favorite Byron Lars and designer Krystal A. Phillips are both featured in HSN's celebration of African-American fashion designers. Extra-enticing means you can grab their pieces at the HSN price point if the designers have previously been out of reach.

My color obsession for Fall 2024 has been deep fushia. The Harlem's Fashion Row HSN collaboration has abundant this color and other hues. I started with the oversized full Melton coat (top) from Kaphill NYC, which I threw on the first chilly day upstate while picking ugly apples off my tree. For a dressier evening-wear-friendly look, I wrapped in the luxurious brocade coat from Byron Lars and Sheila Gray.

I'm in love with the beautiful textures, like lace t-shirts and the rich prints of the sweaters and dresses of both designers. They elevate essential garment items to make them the statement piece for your seasonal wardrobe. I also can't wait to flaunt the faux leather long skirt as a flashy piece to pair with new boots.

While fashion insiders like me have been longtime fans of  Byron Lars, Sheila Gray, and designers promoted by Harlem's Fashion Row, I love that an affordable platform like HSN has invested in these brands to bring them to a much broader audience. It was a great move for everyone as the styles I loved were sold out quickly but, luckily, replenished swiftly. Grab them before they are really gone!

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NYFW: Malan Breton Spring 2025

 Leather for spring? I don't know why designers often offer it only in the fall. Malan Breton showed exquisitely tailored leather evening wear in ladylike pastel shades. The seaming and corseting details were incredibly flattering for any female form. Breton's Savile Row training showing itself. The theme of the collection was "Betrayal, Revenge & Hope". 

There were plenty of gowns in traditional evening wear fabrics, also in the sugary pink and rosy pearl greys, but also a pop of citric yellow. Of course, sophisticated black is an easy sell for customers every season.

In some cases, it was a LOT of dress, even for the professional models. A few struggled with the long tapered silhouettes or had to carry the enormous skirt down the runway. One model continually toppled over in her heels. If the pros are having a hard time, how are the rest of us mortals supposed to navigate such fabulousness?

Malan Breton always shows a glamorous collection that evokes old-school elegance that is increasingly lost in today's world of athleisure and streetwear. The Project Runway alum has also been an accomplished filmmaker as well. His autobiographical film "A Journey to Taiwan" was a moving tribute to his roots and creative process. He debuted "Je Suis Mona" a documentary featuring his muse/model and philanthropist Elton Ilirjani, winning the Trailblazer award at the NYC International Fashion Film Festival.

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NYFW: Naeem Khan's Wicked Spring 2025

Are we excited about the Wicked Movie? Naeem Khan's Spring 2025 collection was a tribute to both witches and the movie musical. It is the most anticipated movie for the holidays and muse to the most fashionable promotional tour this fall.

The NYFW fashion show was staged at the ornate Angel Orensanz center on the Lower East Side. The dramatic venue was the backdrop to intricately sexy gowns inspired by "Elphaba" in black or emerald green. Embellishments included jet beading and re-embroidered lace.  Dresses for "Galinda" included flowing chiffon, sheer pink, and angelic ivory. Embroideries included tulle petals, silver feathers and shimmering beading. 

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LONDON: Lore of Loverboy Exhibit - Club to Catwalk Punk

I just returned from London, where I wondered what the state of punk fashion was today. At Somerset House, there was a fabulous exhibit by designer-in-residence Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY. 

The designer's looks include fans like Tilda Swinton and Harry Styles. What makes his work classically British punk is the incorporation of traditional Tartans and a healthy dose of anarchy. What makes his work modern club fashion is the mix of surrealism and novelty motifs with streetwear. What makes LOVERBOY art are the pieces that double as sculptures, like the Wedgewood dragon helmet, repurposed trash dress, or my favorite banana shoes below.

The spirit of punk fashion started off as anti-establishment and involved mutilated, trashed clothing in many cases. Fashion collections from many a "club kid" turned "designer" often have little merit or endurance. Ten years into his thriving label and seeing Charles Jeffrey's workspace and process, the "club kid" persona should be the very least of his designer identity. Seeing the sketches, the pattern and draping, the official tartan registry certificate, and the thoughtfulness of his collaborations, the LOVERBOY works more like a classic couturier atelier than many contemporary labels.

For anyone who thinks the art in modern club fashion, or social media savvy designers is gone. They only need to see the Charles Jeffrey Loverboy collection to restore their faith.

The Lore of Loverboy exhibit runs until September 1, 2024.

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NYFW: Custo Barcelona Fall 2024

Forget quiet luxury. Custo Barcelona's Fall 2024 is all about maximalist style. I love Custo Barcelona's bright graphic prints every season. When the weather gets more relaxed and more parties are on the calendar, I love the sparkly texture color-blocked into the silhouettes in this collection. 

Fall 2024 had a mix of easy, relaxed bodies for those still in post-Covid comfort mode. Then, there are a few body-conscious lean dresses to show off the physiques of those who worked out the last few years. 

A few graphic, street art-inspired embellished prints would look great as an elevated pairing with jeans under a jacket. 

My favorite was the sparkly turquoise fringe pieces that lit up the runway. 

Beauty-wise, the models were kept casual and fresh. Why compete with the main show of the clothes?

Bring on the sun!

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