Leather for spring? I don't know why designers often offer it only in the fall. Malan Breton showed exquisitely tailored leather evening wear in ladylike pastel shades. The seaming and corseting details were incredibly flattering for any female form. Breton's Savile Row training showing itself. The theme of the collection was "Betrayal, Revenge & Hope".
Thursday, September 26, 2024
NYFW: Malan Breton Spring 2025
Leather for spring? I don't know why designers often offer it only in the fall. Malan Breton showed exquisitely tailored leather evening wear in ladylike pastel shades. The seaming and corseting details were incredibly flattering for any female form. Breton's Savile Row training showing itself. The theme of the collection was "Betrayal, Revenge & Hope".
Thursday, July 11, 2024
LONDON: Lore of Loverboy Exhibit - Club to Catwalk Punk
I just returned from London, where I wondered what the state of punk fashion was today. At Somerset House, there was a fabulous exhibit by designer-in-residence Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY.
The designer's looks include fans like Tilda Swinton and Harry Styles. What makes his work classically British punk is the incorporation of traditional Tartans and a healthy dose of anarchy. What makes his work modern club fashion is the mix of surrealism and novelty motifs with streetwear. What makes LOVERBOY art are the pieces that double as sculptures, like the Wedgewood dragon helmet, repurposed trash dress, or my favorite banana shoes below.
Thursday, February 22, 2024
NYFW: Custo Barcelona Fall 2024
Wednesday, February 14, 2024
NYFW: Zang Toi Fall 2024 Pays Tribute to His Brother See Luon
NYFW Fall 2024 was a season of deeply emotional collections. Last night, Designer Zang Toi's fashion show served as a celebration of life for his beloved brother, See Luon. A beautiful rendition of "Amazing Grace" was sung at the end of the runway. At the same time, the House of Toi family gathered on the runway with roses. Show guests and models were personally invited to pay tribute as well. You may have read my previous runway reports of Zang Toi shows and how they are loved by the photographer riser. One of the many reasons the House of Toi is devoted was the famous curried chicken sandwiches, often handmade by See Luon himself to nourish photographers who often waited hours to shoot the collection.
Tonight's riser was a reunion of longtime press corps photographers, many of whom traveled to the city from far away to shoot this show specifically after skipping many other designers for NY Fashion Week.
The collection itself took inspiration from vintage Parisian glamour. Long fishtail gowns in velvet, luxurious brightly colored furs, sparkling jeweled details. The palette was a romantic black, red, hot pink, and rich orange. Motifs of roses were woven throughout in prints and embroidered appliques. The daytime looks had graphic prints with the same color palette and ladylike vintage silhouettes. Beauty-wise, deep red lipstick, and a red accent in the slicked-back hair was the season's look.
For anyone who doubts that fashion design can be meaningful or therapeutic, just sampling Fall 2024 collections should answer that inquiry. I want to think that See Luon was watching the show from above, loving the gorgeous work that he supported and inspired, and saw a room full of people there to appreciate his contribution.
Monday, February 12, 2024
NYFW: The Blonds FUEGO
Saturday, February 10, 2024
NYFW: AdoreMe's Romantic Takeover, Plus, Ashanti!
I first tried their offerings in 2020 when I was a different size. I tried them again in recent seasons. I am not proportional, finding bras particularly hard to find. I must say, for their cute, themed collections, cut-outs, straps, etc. Their fit was spot-on! Their prices are reasonable, which is another tough thing to do for detailed lingerie.
While many companies claim to be inclusive in their sizing, they don't show that in their marketing. This runway appeared to show models that flaunted their full range of sizing in all shapes with great attitude.
The lineup was divided into three moods, with the design director narrating the runway in the style of "Bridgerton". The first was ready for Valentine's Day, the second had a more tropical palette, the final group had a bridal theme. 2023's bow trend was going strong as the top accesory for hair, bras and butts.