Taoray Wang and Tiffany Trump Fall 2017

Sorry I have been MIA for awhile. With everything going on in this country, I was having a hard time writing. Taoray Wang's Fall 2017 fashion show at NY Fashion Week was an example of how fashion can transcend politics.

An up-and-coming designer from China, Wang presented a sleek, sexy collection of tailored looks, bridging suits and evening wear. She took classically constructed jackets and gave them fashion-forward closures and silhouettes. The jackets were paired with asymmetrical dresses, mixing lace, zippers, for a sexy look.

Tiffany Trump, despite all of her father's anti-China rhetoric, chose to sit front row and show her support. She wore the designer's work prominently at major events. Most social climbing politician's daughters would choose to wear more famous labels for prestige. Tiffany Trump chose to attend several shows of unknown designers, despite the unwelcome reception she received from other guests.

I am NO fan of the current president or his administration, but that does not carry over to the entire family. While I can't say I am a particular fan of Tiffany either, I do respect that she supported designers of color and chose talent over prestige in her wardrobe choices. Whoopi Goldberg, also no fan of the president reached out to make Tiffany feel welcome when she saw her being poorly at a different show.

We like to think of fashion as art and not political, but this season, more than ever, proved that this is not true. Many designers made a political statement with their presentations. Some were subtle, in their music choices or support of social causes. Other more outright with models carrying protest signs or wearing clear statements on their body.

On the flip side, Tiffany Trump, as a political representative, official or not made hers by supporting the fashion industry underdog, regardless of the designer's country of origin.

Interesting, for a collection that was a stark color palette of black and white, would prove to be a showcase for situations that were neither. Let's see what Taoray Wang brings us for the upcoming NYFW season...
Photos by Mariana Leung

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The Blonds Present The Mummy Fall 2017

The Blonds Fall 2017 was one of the most highly anticipated shows of the season. Photographers live for their showmanship on the runway. The theme this year was The Mummy to celebrate the movie release today.

Looking at these photographs, you can see the cliche bandage wrapping of the past was not in play. The Mummy star Sofia Boutella's look in the film has an exotic, dark style. She appears to be deteriorating elegantly in a body conscious costume. The Blonds collection also has a dark, exotic look that is sexy and body conscious. Spiders and their webs are a repeated motif. Several looks have a shredded texture created in feathers, embellished with rich Preciosa pearls.

from The Mummy, Universal Pictures

Preciosa Crystal Components is a major collaborator with designers Philip and David Blond. Preciosa, a leader in producing the most brilliant crystals for jewelry, home, and fashion design. They particularly love working with The Blonds as they use their entire library of materials and techniques in their collection. This season included gigantic faceted teardrops, pearls, trims down to the smallest crystal seed beads.

The hair was equally dramatic. Polished curls twisted into odd angles framed elaborately fierce eye makeup. Intimidating boots with 5" - 6" stiletto heels made the models look larger than life, like the Goddesses (or demons) that were their muse.

Are you going to find these looks on the rack of your local boutique? Not too likely. Will you find them gracing the bodies of your favorite pop icon? The probability is higher. The collection and fashion show was spectacular. Bravo The Blonds!

Runway photos by Mariana Leung

More on Ms. Fabulous:

Guo Pei's Dragon Dramatic Haute Couture

Susanne Bartsch's Landauland

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Susanne Bartsch Presents Adrienne Landau's LandauLand

Have you ever considered fur coats stuffy and boring? Shame on you. Iconic fur label Adrienne Landau turned the idea of a fur salon presentation on its head by collaborating with nightlife legend Susanne Bartsch for her Fall 2017 show at NY Fashion Week.

Instead of a standard runway or stationary pedestals, the models gyrated and seduced the guests in an interactive nightclub tableaus. You first approached a sapphic bridal couple on a horse dressed in a tux and white fur wedding ensemble. Next was a surreal vignette with legendary club figure and trans celebutante Amanda Lepore vamping it up as a disturbing Mommie Dearest. Her little fur-clad kids were chic as hell.

Another scene was a giant banana beach, a disco dance floor, a vintage telephone booth and then an entire gallery of performers behind glass flaunting colored fur and elaborate headdresses inspired by South American tribal cultures (see below). Super curvy burlesque Diva, Dirty Martini sprawled across the floor while a bored androgynous model looked on.

Producing a large range of accessories and coats in wild colors was a great way reinvent the fur fashion market. Having a range of body shapes, genders, ages showed the diversity of the customer. Pairing fur stoles with lingerie showed how sexy fur could be.

This Adrienne Landau/Susanne Bartsch presentation was so much fun. It brought me back to my club kid years when I first landed in New York City. If my budget allowed it, I would hit the town tonight in every color of this furry rainbow.

All photos by Mariana Leung

Also on Ms. Fabulous:

Fashion Underground: The World of Susanne Bartsch

Bryan Boy's Furry Tale 

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Dennis Basso Fall 2017

A touch of mink this season? How many of you were caught off-guard with March snowstorms? Designer Dennis Basso had everyone covered with a mix of breezy gowns in organza and georgette, but his signature fur coats were on hand at his NY Fashion Week Fall 2017 runway.

Dennis Basso is a heritage brand at this point. Ladies who lunch, New York's privileged class have been fawning over him for over three decades at this point. While he has his long term clients seduced, he is making a (sartorial) play for their daughters as well. Tiffany Trump was sitting front row of this runway. Long, relaxed dresses had a contemporary vibe with fully luxurious fabrications. My favorite was the compass, and map inspired gown with embroidered sheer land masses.

The color palette was minimal. Warm, neutral shades of brown, beige, cream as a tonal complement to the natural shades of luxurious fur on the catwalk. While the big fur coats may still be favored for Mom, there was a young gateway accessory of on-trend chokers made of fur on the models.

Politics and social commentary played a part in many of the Fall 2017 shows at NYFW this time around. Some were overt, some more subtle. Tiffany Trump was a new face on the scene at several shows I attended. She looked to be warmly welcomed by editors at Dennis Basso, but I was sad to hear she might have been rudely treated at another show.

Trust me, I am NOT a fan of Donald Trump or his administration so far. However, his daughter, often the rebellious one, is not her father. She is a young woman who is supporting fashion designers at a time when any support should be appreciated. While Dennis Basso is well established, she also attended the shows of designers who were up-and-coming and could use the promotional help. I also saw her at the Taoray Wang show, a Chinese designer, still new to the American scene. Trump wore Wang's work to the Presidential inauguration even though it was probably not politically correct with her father's cronies because she chose design over their BS.

 I can't stand Mean Girl BS in the fashion industry, it's tough enough out there. I am happy to hear that Whoopi Goldberg, also not a Donald fan, extended a friendly invitation when she saw Trump being shunned. The fashion industry is already depicted as shallow and snobbish. Editors, designers, all fashion professionals should be taking the high road and conduct themselves with class. You don't have to invite the offending person into your home, but at least treat others with the dignity and respect you would hope they would treat you with.

Dennis Basso may cater to the elite, but the beauty of his work can be appreciated by all. The runway looks of his Fall 2017 collection were not stuffy but sophisticated. The dresses were sleek and sexy, but you could cocoon yourself in a big warm coat when a snowstorm hits.

all photos by Mariana Leung

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Vivienne Tam Fall 2017

Who is ready to go out tonight? Vivienne Tam brought Fall 2017 back to Hong Kong and its legendary nightlife. The city celebrates the 20th anniversary of its handover back to China. Their festivities are centered around youth and the generation that came of age in this era.

Vivienne Tam paid tribute to the 1990s of the turnover with a nod to the fashion silhouettes of that time but with her signature twist. Ruching details were popular in the late Nineties, and she worked them into unusual placements on skirts and jackets. 

There were some dazzling prints depicting the neon lighting and signs that define the Hong Kong nightlife scene. These were juxtaposed with tailored menswear plaids and metallic brocades. There were some fantastic crochet knits in chunky textures combining black and bright primary colors.

If you are ready to party on a global scale, Vivienne Tam has your wardrobe ready!

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NYFW Zang Toi Fall 2017

Happy Valentine's Day! Let me start with a sweet image of a designer and his muse at the Fall 2017 show. Zang Toi always shows his love for his team, his models, the photographers and his guests. It is no surprise that he is a favorite, season after season.

Toi's collections are the best in escapism. He takes his inspiration from an impeccably luxurious destination that we all fantasize about traveling to. This season he fell in love with the royal blue textile of the Ritz-Carlton in Berlin. It was a dark, intense hue that the designer knew he had to use well. Getting the shade wrong could be the difference between garish and elegant. As you see from the photos, he nailed elegance.

Zang Toi uses the most luxurious of fabrics. This season included baby angora, Lori Piana cashmere, silks of all textures and rich velvet. He paired full cropped cocoon jackets and wrap with slim column dresses for a striking silhouette. Gigantic ballgown and capes swept down the runway to make the photographers' riser swoon. The day wear included many a sophisticated ensemble that looked slim and draped.

For the jewelry, beaded tassels and jeweled updates on the choker were beautiful. The hair was swept back into an elegant, simple bun on most models. 

I love this designer and show much, that partner Mdivani and I actually camped out for 4 hours in then riser to make sure we got the best view. Zang Toi's Fall 2017 was absolutely worth it.

Photos by Mariana Leung

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NYFW: Son Jung Wan Fall 2017

Ready for the Grammy Awards tonight? There will be tributes to George Michael and Prince. Before that, Son Jung Wan's Fall 2017 runway yesterday already did that. 

Korea's favorite designer was inspired by 1980's music icons this season. She looked to big shouldered silhouettes, flamboyant furs and a showy palette of gold, white, lipstick red and turquoise to evoke the era. 

I love the details like lightning bolt styled seams that evoke David Bowie's classic album cover. Wan's personal favorites include the long haired turquoise fur jackets. 

While some brands water down their aesthetic for the menswear portion of the collection, this label carries the fabrics and attitude throughout both genders. Some of broad silhouettes are tough to carry off if you don't have the height or swagger, but it is a collection for icons, go big or go home!

Congrats to Son Jung Wan on another great season!

Photos by Mariana Leung

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#NYFW: Hayley Elsaesser My Little Pony Fall 2017

Rejuveniles rejoice! Hayley Elsaesser created the flamboyant My Little Pony collection of your dreams! The Canadian designer is known for her bright graphic prints and wildly fun attitude. The toy brand approached her for collaboration, finding their mutual aesthetic to be a great fit.

This color palette for this season was the most saturated shade of pretty much any color you can think of. Motifs included rainbows, clouds, hearts, plaid, lightning bolts and the star ponies themselves. You could find cute shift dresses, knit dresses, sweaters, short skirts, ruffled cropped pants for the ladies. Men were offered woven shirts, pants, hoodies, jackets and overalls.

The candy-colored hues didn't stop at the clothing. Male and female models were styled with the same colors in their hair and eye makeup. I loved that the abundance of color was also reflected in the casting. Models represented all ethnicities and body types. When I spoke to Elsaesser, this was very important to her. She wanted to make sure her presentation reflected her fans and customers.

The event was planned as a party. Guests were treated to nibbles and a sticker photo booth. Gift bags included a My Little Pony Pez dispenser, along with stickers, nail art and cookies. I love seeing fellow Canadian fashion peeps make their way down to NYFW. Her boutique is located on Queen Street West a few block away from my first internship in fashion when I still lived in Toronto.

Thank you, Hayley Elsaesser, for starting NYFW off with a joyful bang. I cherish shows that bring a giddy smile to my face. My Little Pony is an easy way to do that. The clothing is so fun, I am shopping on her site as I write this.
Photos by Mariana Leung

Also on Ms. Fabulous:

Betty and Veronica at Rachel Antonoff Spring 2017

Barbie's 50th Anniversary Fashion Show

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#NYFWM: Rochambeau Fall 2017 Anarchy

One of the biggest trends of NYFWM fall 2017 was one of resistance. From protest signs to more subtle messages of inclusion; designers were making statements across all of their collections. This season, Rochambeau designers Joshua Copper and Laurence Chandler dug deep into the punk scene of the 1980s for their muse. 

The duo first looked to the imagery of Henry Rollins' Hot Animal Machine album. They tracked down the man behind the cover who turned out to be DEVO's Mark Mothersbaugh to collaborate. Other influences included the acts of other subversive performers, like Tupac Shakur's performance in Bishop and the booking of the band FEAR on Saturday Night Live due to John Belushi insistence. 

The runway show opened with disturbed dancers in masks, jumpsuits and dripped paint styled on their head. They continued to set the mood of anarchy throughout the presentation. 

The clothing features Peruvian knits, protest messages, oversized graphics and embroideries. The designers also added lots of hidden details that could only be appreciated when the clothing is examined up close. The models were also styled in dripped paint, but also fishnet masks, safety pinned anarchy notes and combat boots. 

Rochambeau Fall 2017 continues to keep ahead of the menswear game. Their anti-establishment message serves to make all of NYFWM their rabid fans. Welcome to Anarchy in the USA.

photos by Mariana Leung

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NY Bridal Week: THEIA Fall 2017

Easy breezy. Theia designer Don O'Neill brought his bridal collection for Fall 2017 back to its roots. He wanted his bride free of contrived themes. He designed many of the looks specifically for the destination bride. This meant lighter, crushable looks that could be rolled up in a suitcase and flown to the beach.

Seeing the detailed wedding looks, you wouldn't think they were luggage-friendly. There were multiple looks of lightweight, soft lace. Silk mousseline and silk chiffon were also breezy and light. Don O'Neill also has a talent for taking popular sportswear silhouettes like this season's wide-legged jumpsuit and upgrading it into an elegant bridal look with lace or draped crepe.

Embroideries were kept light and delicate. Glass beading and nude colored linings were mean to emulate sand and sea glass. Don O'Neill got married himself near his hometown in Ireland the past summer. His destination wedding served as part of the inspiration as it was also near the beach. There was a bit of aspirational design here, though, the runway looks were meant for sunnier skies than the rainclouds he had on his big day.

The beautiful flower crowns with pearl accents worked in that topped the models' hair were full of mermaid chic. Fittingly, they were a collaboration with newlywed husband and creative director of Fleur de Pascal. I noticed the looks of the show were named after various beach beauties, like Ariel from The Little Mermaid and Venus of Greek mythology, rising from the sea in a giant clamshell.

Theia isn't the first designer this season to reset and refresh the collection down to its roots. Simplifying and creating clean fashion design so it can be perfected is a wonderful movement that I am seeing from the top designers this season. Forget the wedding, I just want to run away in a gorgeous THEIA dress at the prettiest beach I can find.

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