NY Bridal Week: THEIA Fall 2016

NY Bridal Week got off on a very sexy start Thursday with THEIA's Fall 2016 Bridal collection. Designer Don O'Neill's inspiration this season was the sultry spirit of 1920s opium dens. 

What I love about how O'Neill designs his collections is that he considers his theme both aesthetically and intellectually. Aesthetically, you see influences of the time period in bias silhouettes and the very current trend of fringe worked into elegant gowns. You also see hints of Asian influence in the use of red for bridal gowns and the embroidery without veering into cultural appropriation that lesser designers are tempted by.
 A bit of the flapper influence immediately set the tone with that first look of vampy eye shadow and fur chubby and the beaded gown. Intellectually, the opium den was carried through in the spirit of a bride who has rid herself of her inhibitions and is now free. There were sheer dresses that served to highlight the graphic patterns of the embroidery. The 1920s was a breakthrough decade of major progress in women's lives so the liberation idea was appropriate there too.

In practical details, THEIA does a great job of taking classic details and current fashion trends and reworking them into bridal. Instead of standard cowl-back bias gown, there were multiple draped strips framing the back. Off-the-shoulder silhouettes were cut in modern shapes. Instead of using fringe in a bohemian way or traditional flapper dress, the placement was used to create movement where a sheer skirt or back cape detail might be.

A perfect partnership, floral designer Fleur de Pascal created dramatic orchid bouquets, lillies and over-sized lotus flowers for a sophisticated look. He wasn't afraid to go dark for the darker colored gowns adding to that sultry, illicit opium den vibe.

The THEIA bridal collection once again gave us a beautiful collection that is flattering, sexy and fashion forward. It has hints of classic bridal silhouettes but pushes them forward with updated trends. When the foggy opium den haze clears, what an image these gowns make.

photos by Mariana Leung

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Anna Sui's Opium Den - Fall 2014

Vintage Chinoiserie and 90's Bohemia mated on Anna Sui's Fall 2014 runway.  The dark berry bow-lips and bobbed haircuts were reminiscent of old 1930's 'beauty" advertising.  Bright prints in Anna Sui's signature purples.

The soundtrack with retro racial stereotypes could have been considered highly offensive.  I suppose in Anna Sui's hands, it was meant to be an ironic poke at them to demonstrate how this collection was intended as a twist of traditional Asian motifs.  The contemporary take on Asian motifs theme has always been done very well by Vivienne Tam, I guess Ms. Sui wanted to give it a try.

Some of the looks were pretty and will no doubt have her hardcore fans drooling.  Her flea market look from the brand's inception is still consistent now, forever trying to capture the club kids and hipsters of the designer's youth.  However, the entire run of NY fashion week was filled with rich, luxurious furs, so the cheaper, fake fur qualities on this runway looked poor in comparison.

Much more successful were the accessories on offer.  Anna Sui's color blocked seamed footwear and handbags were a lot more fun.  The long, orientalist ornamental necklaces could give a dramatic look to any simple outfit.
Photos by Mariana Leung

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